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#1
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refrigerator power requirement 15A or 20A?
I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit.
I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. |
#2
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"a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Why don't you just up the breaker to a 20 AMP? |
#3
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Yeah, or just jumper around it.
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#4
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Yeah, or just jumper around it.
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#5
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"Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Why don't you just up the breaker to a 20 AMP? OK if you up the wire along with it. There are codes for wire size and breaker size and it was developed to prevent fires. |
#6
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:vAMSd.32750$s16.8322@trndny02... "Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Why don't you just up the breaker to a 20 AMP? OK if you up the wire along with it. There are codes for wire size and breaker size and it was developed to prevent fires. Ooops! My house has mostly 12-2 wire so going from a 15 to 20 amp breaker would work. Probably not to code to have a 20 amp on 14-2 wire...... |
#7
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My house has mostly 12-2 wire so going from a 15 to 20 amp breaker would
work. Probably not to code to have a 20 amp on 14-2 wire...... ----------- That's right. 12-2 for 20 amp is code. 14-2 is 15 amp max by code. |
#8
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"Dr. Hardcrab" wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:vAMSd.32750$s16.8322@trndny02... "Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Why don't you just up the breaker to a 20 AMP? OK if you up the wire along with it. There are codes for wire size and breaker size and it was developed to prevent fires. Ooops! My house has mostly 12-2 wire so going from a 15 to 20 amp breaker would work. Probably not to code to have a 20 amp on 14-2 wire...... Color me curious, but why would you be running a 15A breaker on a circuit wired with 12GA in the first place? Might as well let the circuit work up to its capacity. |
#9
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because most appliances are 15 amp or less.
if one goes haywire and smokes itself the 15 amp breaker will trip before the 20 "Andy Hill" wrote in message ... "Dr. Hardcrab" wrote: "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:vAMSd.32750$s16.8322@trndny02... "Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Why don't you just up the breaker to a 20 AMP? OK if you up the wire along with it. There are codes for wire size and breaker size and it was developed to prevent fires. Ooops! My house has mostly 12-2 wire so going from a 15 to 20 amp breaker would work. Probably not to code to have a 20 amp on 14-2 wire...... Color me curious, but why would you be running a 15A breaker on a circuit wired with 12GA in the first place? Might as well let the circuit work up to its capacity. |
#10
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In article ,
Andy Hill wrote: Color me curious, but why would you be running a 15A breaker on a circuit wired with 12GA in the first place? Might as well let the circuit work up to its capacity. The cable might have its ampacity reduced due to bundling, running through a hot attic, etc. The rule of thumb of "14 AWG for 15 A" and "12 AWG for 20 A" is generally acceptable but not always -- the real NEC rules are quite a bit more complicated. -- Steve Kives -- Unix sysadmin/netadmin -- Denver, CO Forward and fiaka, Manacle an den gosaka |
#11
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Yeah, or just jumper around it.
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#12
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they are probably stating that they should be on a max 20A breaker so it has
a chance of tripping if there is a problem, not that the fridge under full load draws 20 amps. find out what the fridge will actually draw... i cannot imagine you need more than 15 amps. randy "a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. |
#13
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a guest wrote:
I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Code only requires a 15A circuit. Doesn't even have to be dedicated, although it ain't a bad idea. |
#14
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I don't know where you got your code book Andy, but mine says 20 amp
dedicated. |
#15
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"Matt" wrote:
I don't know where you got your code book Andy, but mine says 20 amp dedicated. Hmmmm. Code book probably came out of the same bubble-gum machine my super-spy decoder ring came out of. Could've sworn 2002 NEC (which is my reference copy) put the 'fridge on one of the two required Small Appliance circuits in the kitchen. Either I'm mis-remembering (highly likely), or one of the newer NECs has added yet another gratuitous dedicated circuit (there's so many required dedicated circuits anymore, there must be kickbacks from the breaker box industry involved). |
#16
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Naw. I don't really have a code book.
Got ya. But, when I was doing residential electric.... anything other than a dedicated 12 gauge 20 amp circuit would fail inspection everytime; and that was back in 1981. |
#17
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"Matt" wrote:
Naw. I don't really have a code book. Got ya. But, when I was doing residential electric.... anything other than a dedicated 12 gauge 20 amp circuit would fail inspection everytime; and that was back in 1981. Got me, I guess. Went and checked my doorstop, I mean, the NEC, and at least the 2002 allows the 'fridge to be on one of the kitchen SA circuits (which have to be 20A, 'tho -- mis-remembered that one). Sure seems unlikely the newer NECs would require a dedicated circuit...newer 'fridges draw *less* juice than the older ones, not less. 1981 seriously predated my trying to go by code. I occasionally helped my dad wire up stuff around the house in that timeframe, but I can guarantee that a large part of it never met code by any reasonable definition. Wonder if that "required 20A dedicated circuit" you had to deal with was a local code requirement? |
#18
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"Andy Hill" wrote in message ... "Matt" wrote: I don't know where you got your code book Andy, but mine says 20 amp dedicated. Hmmmm. Code book probably came out of the same bubble-gum machine my super-spy decoder ring came out of. Could've sworn 2002 NEC (which is my reference copy) put the 'fridge on one of the two required Small Appliance circuits in the kitchen. Either I'm mis-remembering (highly likely), or one of the newer NECs has added yet another gratuitous dedicated circuit (there's so many required dedicated circuits anymore, there must be kickbacks from the breaker box industry involved). So now the fellow that wants a frig in his basement has to run a dropcord upstairs to the kitchen receptical :-) |
#19
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"Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"Andy Hill" wrote in message .. . "Matt" wrote: I don't know where you got your code book Andy, but mine says 20 amp dedicated. Hmmmm. Code book probably came out of the same bubble-gum machine my super-spy decoder ring came out of. Could've sworn 2002 NEC (which is my reference copy) put the 'fridge on one of the two required Small Appliance circuits in the kitchen. Either I'm mis-remembering (highly likely), or one of the newer NECs has added yet another gratuitous dedicated circuit (there's so many required dedicated circuits anymore, there must be kickbacks from the breaker box industry involved). So now the fellow that wants a frig in his basement has to run a dropcord upstairs to the kitchen receptical :-) As long as he ain't getting inspected, it don't matter. Hell, I run my 'fridge offa two bare wires running from my washer outlet. Only took the baby a couple of times before she lernt to crawl around the wires. BTW, ;-} |
#20
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"a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. You should be OK. I just looked at a couple of web pages to see what power they actually draw, but they did not list the specification. Kitchen Aid did state a 15A or 20A circuit is sufficient. As a matter of code I believe new homes must be wired with a single 20A circuit for the refrigerator. This is to allow for a decent power draw and it avoids having the fridge and toaster on the same line, blowing breakers, etc. It is just good common sense. I have a second fridge in the basement also and it is on a 15A line and has been for over 20 years. New models take much less power than the older ones. What you want to be careful of is putting a lot of other appliances or heavy draw items on that branch circuit. Safety aside, you don't want the kids to plug in a game, blow the breaker and they go out and play. Three days later you find the fridge is now warm and food spoiled. |
#21
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. You should be OK. I just looked at a couple of web pages to see what power they actually draw, but they did not list the specification. Kitchen Aid did state a 15A or 20A circuit is sufficient. As a matter of code I believe new homes must be wired with a single 20A circuit for the refrigerator. This is to allow for a decent power draw and it avoids having the fridge and toaster on the same line, blowing breakers, etc. It is just good common sense. I have a second fridge in the basement also and it is on a 15A line and has been for over 20 years. New models take much less power than the older ones. What you want to be careful of is putting a lot of other appliances or heavy draw items on that branch circuit. Safety aside, you don't want the kids to plug in a game, blow the breaker and they go out and play. Three days later you find the fridge is now warm and food spoiled. Thanks all who replied. I figured 15A is probably OK, as my current main refregerator is on a 15A circuit shared with rangehhod and some lights. Those refregerators doesn't require much energy - the yellow tags stated that they run 400 - 600 KWH per year, which is $30 to $40 a year (it costs less than 7 cents/KWH here.) |
#22
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a guest wrote:
Edwin Pawlowski wrote: "a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. You should be OK. I just looked at a couple of web pages to see what power they actually draw, but they did not list the specification. Kitchen Aid did state a 15A or 20A circuit is sufficient. As a matter of code I believe new homes must be wired with a single 20A circuit for the refrigerator. This is to allow for a decent power draw and it avoids having the fridge and toaster on the same line, blowing breakers, etc. It is just good common sense. I have a second fridge in the basement also and it is on a 15A line and has been for over 20 years. New models take much less power than the older ones. What you want to be careful of is putting a lot of other appliances or heavy draw items on that branch circuit. Safety aside, you don't want the kids to plug in a game, blow the breaker and they go out and play. Three days later you find the fridge is now warm and food spoiled. Thanks all who replied. I figured 15A is probably OK, as my current main refregerator is on a 15A circuit shared with rangehhod and some lights. Those refregerators doesn't require much energy - the yellow tags stated that they run 400 - 600 KWH per year, which is $30 to $40 a year (it costs less than 7 cents/KWH here.) Finally somebody pointed that out. I just bought a frig and it uses less than a 60-watt bulb running continuously. I actually checked this with a Kill-A-Watt meter. |
#23
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If your 60 watt bulb is running, you better catch it before it gets out
the door! Ha! |
#24
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William W. Plummer wrote: a guest wrote: Those refregerators doesn't require much energy - the yellow tags stated that they run 400 - 600 KWH per year, which is $30 to $40 a year (it costs less than 7 cents/KWH here.) Finally somebody pointed that out. I just bought a frig and it uses less than a 60-watt bulb running continuously. I actually checked this with a Kill-A-Watt meter. I presume you mean it uses less *total kwh* than a 60-watt bulb running continuously. What was the starting current and the running current? I don't think the breaker is sized according to average current draw, which includes time when it isn't running. %mod% |
#26
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"a guest" wrote in message ... I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. From Whirlpool (copy & paste): Electrical Requirements 15 OR 20 Ampere, 115 Volts, 60 Hertz (1/second). FUSED ELECTRICAL SUPPLY IS REQUIRED. GROUNDED CIRCUIT IS REQUIRED. A TIME-DELAY FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER AND SEPARATE CIRCUIT IS RECOMMENDED. |
#27
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It would have to be a pretty big refrigerator to need a 20A breaker. I
think mine uses something like 8A. |
#28
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wrote:
It would have to be a pretty big refrigerator to need a 20A breaker. I think mine uses something like 8A. I agree. My current main refregerator (25 cu ft) is on a 15A circuit that is shared with some lights and rangehood. It never tripped the circuit breaker. However, browsing the net, and you see specifications like: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=spe#tablink and maximum amps is 20. I was wondering if the newer refregerators requires larger circuit. |
#29
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"a guest" wrote in message However, browsing the net, and you see specifications like: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=spe#tablink and maximum amps is 20. I was wondering if the newer refregerators requires larger circuit. I think the maximum is for a safety factor to assure the breaker will trip from a serious overload. I don't wee any amperage information on any of the web pages I looked at for a few brands, just what is on the nameplate on mine. |
#30
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Sure that was not maximum over current protection? As in max breaker
size? a guest wrote: I am shoping for a refrigerator. I can only connact to a 15A circuit. I looked some of the Maytag and Kenmore models. Some just listed as UL rating. Some stated that the maximum amps is 20. So do I need a 20A circuit for a refrigerator? The fridge will be in a finished basement. Thanks for input. Y. |
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