The cold water shower faucet (old style with separate faucets to mixer)
continues to drip after replacing both the seat and washer. This is a
trivial job I've done many times over the years and I'm baffled as to how
water can still be getting though.

I've tried a few different kinds of washers (flat and beveled), checked that
the seat is tightened firmly and not cross threaded, swapped it with
another new one though it looked perfectly smooth, and coated the seat
threads with sealant. The valve stem screws down firmly, i.e. is not
stripped and the washer area looks perfectly fine.

I may just have to replace the valve but have to go through a wall to do it,
so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
--

Phil A. Buster wrote:
The cold water shower faucet (old style with separate faucets to mixer)
continues to drip after replacing both the seat and washer. This is a
trivial job I've done many times over the years and I'm baffled as to how
water can still be getting though.

I've tried a few different kinds of washers (flat and beveled), checked that
the seat is tightened firmly and not cross threaded, swapped it with
another new one though it looked perfectly smooth, and coated the seat
threads with sealant. The valve stem screws down firmly, i.e. is not
stripped and the washer area looks perfectly fine.

I may just have to replace the valve but have to go through a wall to do it,
so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

This is extreme, but take the seat out again. Clean the threads
and coat with Loctite. (You can use one of the grades that doesn't
become "permanent".) It's also worth sealing the bibb screw that
holds the washer in.

Jim

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Phil A. Buster wrote:
The cold water shower faucet (old style with separate faucets to mixer)
continues to drip after replacing both the seat and washer. This is a
trivial job I've done many times over the years and I'm baffled as to how
water can still be getting though.

I've tried a few different kinds of washers (flat and beveled), checked
that the seat is tightened firmly and not cross threaded, swapped it
with another new one though it looked perfectly smooth, and coated the
seat threads with sealant. The valve stem screws down firmly, i.e. is
not stripped and the washer area looks perfectly fine.

I may just have to replace the valve but have to go through a wall to do
it, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

This is extreme, but take the seat out again. Clean the threads
and coat with Loctite. (You can use one of the grades that doesn't
become "permanent".) It's also worth sealing the bibb screw that
holds the washer in.

Jim

Thanks Jim. The seat threads are coated with a plumbing thread sealant. I
didn't think of sealing the bibb screw. I'll give it a try.