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#1
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I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently
bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#2
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Shellac will completely dissolve in alcohol. I do not know how to identify
polyurethane. Don Young "bro" wrote in message news:9MlGd.547$Hg6.88@trnddc09... I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#3
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I'll try some denatured alcohol.
Mike "Don Young" wrote in message ... Shellac will completely dissolve in alcohol. I do not know how to identify polyurethane. Don Young "bro" wrote in message news:9MlGd.547$Hg6.88@trnddc09... I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#4
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You're on the right track with alcohol on a rag in an inconspicuous
location. Probably shellac being the age it is. Shellac and lacquer are the only finishes I know of that melt the previous coats making a single coatd of finish on the substrate. Polyurethane, a varnish, doesn't melt previous and requires scuff sanding between coats to get good adhesion. On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:07:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#5
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90% of the floor looks good and I really don't want to refinish them.
If it's poly coated I can sand (which grit sandpaper?) then recoat with poly? Dpes it matter if it's water based poly? Mike wrote in message news ![]() You're on the right track with alcohol on a rag in an inconspicuous location. Probably shellac being the age it is. Shellac and lacquer are the only finishes I know of that melt the previous coats making a single coatd of finish on the substrate. Polyurethane, a varnish, doesn't melt previous and requires scuff sanding between coats to get good adhesion. On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:07:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#6
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How do I know if I need to fresh coat to be oil base dor water based? Does
it matter? Mike "bro" wrote in message news ![]() 90% of the floor looks good and I really don't want to refinish them. If it's poly coated I can sand (which grit sandpaper?) then recoat with poly? Dpes it matter if it's water based poly? Mike wrote in message news ![]() You're on the right track with alcohol on a rag in an inconspicuous location. Probably shellac being the age it is. Shellac and lacquer are the only finishes I know of that melt the previous coats making a single coatd of finish on the substrate. Polyurethane, a varnish, doesn't melt previous and requires scuff sanding between coats to get good adhesion. On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:07:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#7
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Waterbased can be used as the finish is fully cured. It doesn't smell
like oil based does and doesn't have the ambering effect like oil. Scuff sand with 150 grit and wipe up the dust with a rag dampened with water. Don't use paint thinner/mineral spirits around anything that will be topcoated with waterbased finish! On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 04:50:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: How do I know if I need to fresh coat to be oil base dor water based? Does it matter? Mike "bro" wrote in message news ![]() 90% of the floor looks good and I really don't want to refinish them. If it's poly coated I can sand (which grit sandpaper?) then recoat with poly? Dpes it matter if it's water based poly? Mike wrote in message news ![]() You're on the right track with alcohol on a rag in an inconspicuous location. Probably shellac being the age it is. Shellac and lacquer are the only finishes I know of that melt the previous coats making a single coatd of finish on the substrate. Polyurethane, a varnish, doesn't melt previous and requires scuff sanding between coats to get good adhesion. On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:07:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
#8
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Do I need to find out if the original poly is water based or oil based
before applying a top coat? Mike wrote in message ... Waterbased can be used as the finish is fully cured. It doesn't smell like oil based does and doesn't have the ambering effect like oil. Scuff sand with 150 grit and wipe up the dust with a rag dampened with water. Don't use paint thinner/mineral spirits around anything that will be topcoated with waterbased finish! On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 04:50:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: How do I know if I need to fresh coat to be oil base dor water based? Does it matter? Mike "bro" wrote in message news ![]() 90% of the floor looks good and I really don't want to refinish them. If it's poly coated I can sand (which grit sandpaper?) then recoat with poly? Dpes it matter if it's water based poly? Mike wrote in message news ![]() location. Probably shellac being the age it is. Shellac and lacquer are the only finishes I know of that melt the previous coats making a single coatd of finish on the substrate. Polyurethane, a varnish, doesn't melt previous and requires scuff sanding between coats to get good adhesion. On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:07:33 GMT, "bro" wrote: I removed the wall to wall carpet from the 70 year old house I recently bought. The floors in the bedrooms appears to be pine coated with shellac or possibly polyurethane. I don't want to refinish the floors because of the beautiful patina. In only isolated spots and by the door the coating show heavy wear. How can I find out which coating is on the floors? How can I protect and preserve the floors? What should I use to clean and preserve them? Thanks, Mike |
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