Some time back I posted some stuff about using a light bulb inside of
machine cabinets to keep away rust.

It was an act of desperation.

Since that sucked, I decided to try other things.

In the past I've used paste wax (three coats and a buff), Topcote,and
Boeshield. None of them were really satisfactory.

The problem is that they wear off too quickly and leave the cast iron
open to rusting.

I had this idea that shellac might make a good barrier coat. It
wouldn't wear as quickly as the others. It would be nice and slidey.
It could be applied at least as quickly as the wax, although not so
quickly as the sprays - but the spray sucked anyways.

So, I pinged O'Deen and asked him what he thought about the idea of
wiping shellac onto the cast iron tops of my machinery.

Well, that's sorta like asking Billy Graham what he thinks about Jesus
- but, with the imprimatur of the Ayatollah of Shellackola - I
proceeded with my testing.

I waxed the top of the shaper (three coats and a buff). I put Topcote
on the Unisaur. I applied Boeshield to the Lion Miter Trimmer (have a
devil of a time keeping rust off that thing and I'm scared to death of
the blades - so a spray seemed a good way to go). I wiped on three
coats of three pound cut shellac onto the jointah and the bandsaur
(didn't buff - just de-nibbed wif 4/0 steel wool).

Well, the results are in. The shaper (wax) is showing a good deal of
rust in the area around the opening that the cutters project through.
The Unisaur (Topcote) shows the beginnings of rust - but it gets used
the most and I think there would have been more if it were not used so
much. The miter trimmer (Boeshield) shows no rust but the Boeshield
was applied heavy and wet - the way you would for storage (but the
topcote never kept the rust of it when applied this way)(also, the
Unisaur has rusted before when I've used Boeshield that was wiped
after application).

The jointah and the bandsaur show no rust at all.

Well, I'm going to try shellac on the other tools now. I don't see
much downside. Ths stuff comes off readily when the alcohol is wiped
on and it goes on fast with a cloth.

I figure I'll wipe the shellac off before putting on a fresh coating,
so there will be no buildup.

Just right now I'm hopeful that shellac is the way to go.

ymmv

all other caveats apply.


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

Well now that's an interesting experiment, with interesting results. I'm
curious how you fond the "action" of wood across the surface with the
shellac and I'm curious as to how it will wear...I'd love to hear a running
commentary on the results as time progress' Tom.

Rob

--

Remove CC for email and please visit our web site:
http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
s.com...
Some time back I posted some stuff about using a light bulb inside of
machine cabinets to keep away rust.

It was an act of desperation.

Since that sucked, I decided to try other things.

In the past I've used paste wax (three coats and a buff), Topcote,and
Boeshield. None of them were really satisfactory.

The problem is that they wear off too quickly and leave the cast iron
open to rusting.

I had this idea that shellac might make a good barrier coat. It
wouldn't wear as quickly as the others. It would be nice and slidey.
It could be applied at least as quickly as the wax, although not so
quickly as the sprays - but the spray sucked anyways.

So, I pinged O'Deen and asked him what he thought about the idea of
wiping shellac onto the cast iron tops of my machinery.

Well, that's sorta like asking Billy Graham what he thinks about Jesus
- but, with the imprimatur of the Ayatollah of Shellackola - I
proceeded with my testing.

I waxed the top of the shaper (three coats and a buff). I put Topcote
on the Unisaur. I applied Boeshield to the Lion Miter Trimmer (have a
devil of a time keeping rust off that thing and I'm scared to death of
the blades - so a spray seemed a good way to go). I wiped on three
coats of three pound cut shellac onto the jointah and the bandsaur
(didn't buff - just de-nibbed wif 4/0 steel wool).

Well, the results are in. The shaper (wax) is showing a good deal of
rust in the area around the opening that the cutters project through.
The Unisaur (Topcote) shows the beginnings of rust - but it gets used
the most and I think there would have been more if it were not used so
much. The miter trimmer (Boeshield) shows no rust but the Boeshield
was applied heavy and wet - the way you would for storage (but the
topcote never kept the rust of it when applied this way)(also, the
Unisaur has rusted before when I've used Boeshield that was wiped
after application).

The jointah and the bandsaur show no rust at all.

Well, I'm going to try shellac on the other tools now. I don't see
much downside. Ths stuff comes off readily when the alcohol is wiped
on and it goes on fast with a cloth.

I figure I'll wipe the shellac off before putting on a fresh coating,
so there will be no buildup.

Just right now I'm hopeful that shellac is the way to go.

ymmv

all other caveats apply.


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 22:10:54 GMT, "Rob Stokes"
wrote:

Well now that's an interesting experiment, with interesting results. I'm
curious how you fond the "action" of wood across the surface with the
shellac and I'm curious as to how it will wear...I'd love to hear a running
commentary on the results as time progress' Tom.

As they say 'round these parts,the action is, "slickernsnot", and is
comparable to the buffed wax. As to the wear; I'll know better when I
start using it on the Unisaur and the shaper.

I should have mentioned that I was using a Dewaxed Extra Pale shellac
from Homestead Finishing. I don't know that the Extra Pale has much
to do with it but the Dewaxed is thought to provide a better
moisture/vapor barrier than its waxier brethren.

I'm excited by the shellac idea because I know that it will not
introduce negative chemistry into the wood, which is worrisome to me
regarding the Boeshield and Topcote (and a bit with the wax).

I was concerned that the shellac would tend to tear or flake off under
abrasion and pressure but that has not proven to be the case with the
Jointah - the Bandsaur doesn't provide much of a test in that regard.

I like the early results enough to begin using the shellac on all of
my cast iron and see how that plays out.

If there are significant results - I'll be sure to post them.



Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 21:32:28 GMT, Tom Watson
brought forth from the murky depths:

Some time back I posted some stuff about using a light bulb inside of
machine cabinets to keep away rust.

It was an act of desperation.

Since that sucked, I decided to try other things.

In the past I've used paste wax (three coats and a buff), Topcote,and
Boeshield. None of them were really satisfactory.

3 coats of wax is prolly 2 too many. The next coat dissolves the
first, so you really only have one coat on there.


The problem is that they wear off too quickly and leave the cast iron
open to rusting.

My tools, with ALL THEIR USE (?) have shown little rust over the
past year since I waxed 'em.


coats of three pound cut shellac onto the jointah and the bandsaur
(didn't buff - just de-nibbed wif 4/0 steel wool).

Bzzzzt! Denibbing wears the shellac off any bumps, effectively leaving
no finish on those areas. They might rust.


Well, the results are in. The shaper (wax) is showing a good deal of
rust in the area around the opening that the cutters project through.

See? ITYS!

Maybe you should just wax things every month or two?
Or shellac now and wax monthly?


================================================== ========
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On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 21:32:28 +0000, Tom Watson wrote:

Some time back I posted some stuff about using a light bulb inside of
machine cabinets to keep away rust.

It was an act of desperation.

Since that sucked, I decided to try other things.

[snip]

The real solution is to move to a dry climate, namely Arizona. Then, I
could become your endentured servant and in return explain that "golf
thing" to you. You did say you weren't "that" Tom?

-Doug

Tom,

I have bought a couple of used machines that the tables looked impeccable
on, only on closer inspection to find that they have been sprayed with clear
lacquer. These have all been big industrial machines from factories. My 20"
Wadkin bandsaw table (130lb+) was clearcoated, I only discovered this when I
scratched it. I wonder why more people don't simply clearcoat?

Thanks,

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.

Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.

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On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 03:22:19 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

3 coats of wax is prolly 2 too many. The next coat dissolves the
first, so you really only have one coat on there.

Wrong.

My tools, with ALL THEIR USE (?) have shown little rust over the
past year since I waxed 'em.

No ****.

Bzzzzt! Denibbing wears the shellac off any bumps, effectively leaving
no finish on those areas. They might rust.

Wrong again.

Maybe you should just wax things every month or two?
Or shellac now and wax monthly?

How's that bowsaw coming along?


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 05:32:45 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
wrote:

I have bought a couple of used machines that the tables looked impeccable
on, only on closer inspection to find that they have been sprayed with clear
lacquer. These have all been big industrial machines from factories. My 20"
Wadkin bandsaw table (130lb+) was clearcoated, I only discovered this when I
scratched it. I wonder why more people don't simply clearcoat?

Yep. The only reason I didn't use lacquer was that I didn't want to
have to use lacquer thinner to strip it if it got messed up.

(also, the shellacky is supposed to provide a better vapor barrier
than lacquer, from what I've read.)

I hope this works. It would save me a lot of time.



Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

While I'm interested in hearing how the shellac works long term, I'll put in my
own two cents on what works for me hear in humid, damp, wet Florida. I use a
coat of Boeshield, and once it dries, I cover it with a coat of wax. I do this
only once a year, give or take 3 or 4 months. This has kept my tools virtually
rust free for the last 5 years (absent any really stupid moves on my part like
leaving a piece of green oak on the bandsaw table). I do have to admit that my
tools probably don't see quite as much use as Tom's tablesaw.

BTW, Tom, plenty of neanders use wax on the bottom of their metal planes to cut
down on the friction when in use, and I have never heard of it interfering with
a finish. No scientific study, just a casual observation.
David

remove the key to email me.

On 30 Nov 2003 12:26:34 GMT, ey (J Pagona aka Y.B.)
wrote:

While I'm interested in hearing how the shellac works long term, I'll put in my
own two cents on what works for me hear in humid, damp, wet Florida. I use a
coat of Boeshield, and once it dries, I cover it with a coat of wax. I do this
only once a year, give or take 3 or 4 months. This has kept my tools virtually
rust free for the last 5 years (absent any really stupid moves on my part like
leaving a piece of green oak on the bandsaw table). I do have to admit that my
tools probably don't see quite as much use as Tom's tablesaw.

I'll agree that Florida's air is usually juicier than Pennsyltucky air
but I wonder if the temperature of your equipment falls below the dew
point any more frequently than mine does here in my shop (that is in a
hollow, twenty feet from a stream).

I've had a devil of a time keeping rust off the cast iron in this shop
and that's why I've tried so many possible solutions. I've not tried
the Boeshield and wax treatment but might, if the shellac idea doesn't
pan out. The wax alone does not work for me. Despite Lorry Jax's
protestations to the contrary, three coats is better than one (cf
Forest Products Laboratory, General Tech Report, FPL-GTR-113,
1999.)but, even after three coats the MEE (Moisture Excluding
Effectiveness) is only 17%, while three coats of nitro lacquer is 79%
and three coats of shellac is 91% (it is not clear whether the tested
shellac was de waxed or not).

BTW, Tom, plenty of neanders use wax on the bottom of their metal planes to cut
down on the friction when in use, and I have never heard of it interfering with
a finish. No scientific study, just a casual observation.

Yeah, I use it myself - and my planes get rusty. I figure the wax is
not a contamination problem once it's dry and buffed. I've had some
problems in the past when I've been sloppy in wiping the wax off the
Unisaw and left little gobs of it in the plough or around the edge.
The wax creates a problem under lacquer finishes.


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

My bet it that as long as you can keep the shellac slick, for ease of use,
it should work. Got a nice coat of overspray on a rarely used spare drill
press table top a couple of months back and just left it ... no ill effects
and no rust thus far.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03


"Tom Watson" wrote in message

(also, the shellacky is supposed to provide a better vapor barrier
than lacquer, from what I've read.)

I hope this works. It would save me a lot of time.



Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

In article m,
says...
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 05:32:45 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
wrote:

I have bought a couple of used machines that the tables looked impeccable
on, only on closer inspection to find that they have been sprayed with clear
lacquer. These have all been big industrial machines from factories. My 20"
Wadkin bandsaw table (130lb+) was clearcoated, I only discovered this when I
scratched it. I wonder why more people don't simply clearcoat?

Yep. The only reason I didn't use lacquer was that I didn't want to
have to use lacquer thinner to strip it if it got messed up.

(also, the shellacky is supposed to provide a better vapor barrier
than lacquer, from what I've read.)

I hope this works. It would save me a lot of time.



One thought regarding the shellac, doesn't shellac melt at body
temperature? If one were to lean on a tool, for example, leaning on the
table saw with one hand while making adjustments or reaching down for to
retrieve a dropped arbor nut (I know, professionals never drop that
nut), is is possible that you could melt through the finish?

"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
. cable.rogers.com...
Tom,

I have bought a couple of used machines that the tables looked
impeccable
on, only on closer inspection to find that they have been sprayed with
clear
lacquer. These have all been big industrial machines from factories.
My 20"
Wadkin bandsaw table (130lb+) was clearcoated, I only discovered this
when I
scratched it. I wonder why more people don't simply clearcoat?

Thanks,

David.


Has anyone considered powder coating?

Back to lurking.
C

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 10:14:46 GMT, Tom Watson
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 03:22:19 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

3 coats of wax is prolly 2 too many. The next coat dissolves the
first, so you really only have one coat on there.

Wrong.

I'm from Missouri. Show me.


Bzzzzt! Denibbing wears the shellac off any bumps, effectively leaving
no finish on those areas. They might rust.

Wrong again.

How can sanding (light, but sanding nonetheless) NOT remove the finish
on the high spots?


Maybe you should just wax things every month or two?
Or shellac now and wax monthly?

How's that bowsaw coming along?

I saw the parts box earlier this year, thanks.



================================================== ============
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http://www/diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
================================================== ============

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:30:27 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I'm from Missouri.

Guess you'll have to move.

Show me.

"MEE (Moisture Excluding Effectiveness) of "Paste Furniture Wax": One
Coat = 6%; Two Coats = 11%; Three Coats = 17%."

(Forest Products Laboratory, General Tech Report, FPL-GTR-113,
1999.)


Bzzzzt! Denibbing wears the shellac off any bumps, effectively leaving
no finish on those areas. They might rust.

Wrong again.

How can sanding (light, but sanding nonetheless) NOT remove the finish
on the high spots?

If you can't knock off the dust and nibs without taking off the
finish, you need to take a good look at your technique - or maybe you
should switch to 4/0 steel wool from whatever you're using.


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

Mark & Juanita wrote:

One thought regarding the shellac, doesn't shellac melt at body
temperature? If one were to lean on a tool, for example, leaning on the
table saw with one hand while making adjustments or reaching down for to
retrieve a dropped arbor nut (I know, professionals never drop that
nut), is is possible that you could melt through the finish?

According to a Google search the melting point of waxed shellac is somewhere
between 77 C and 90 C (170 F - 194 F). The melting point for dewaxed shellac would
be higher.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

hey, Tom-
that's an interesting sounding report you cite. do ya know if it's
available online, and if so do you have a link for us?

I have tried linseed oil, with no bad effects. I've never tried
shellac or laquer. I live in Arizona, so it's not usually a huge
problem here. paste wax seems to do fine for me....
Bridger



On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 14:19:09 GMT, Tom Watson
wrote:

I've had a devil of a time keeping rust off the cast iron in this shop
and that's why I've tried so many possible solutions. I've not tried
the Boeshield and wax treatment but might, if the shellac idea doesn't
pan out. The wax alone does not work for me. Despite Lorry Jax's
protestations to the contrary, three coats is better than one (cf
Forest Products Laboratory, General Tech Report, FPL-GTR-113,
1999.)but, even after three coats the MEE (Moisture Excluding
Effectiveness) is only 17%, while three coats of nitro lacquer is 79%
and three coats of shellac is 91% (it is not clear whether the tested
shellac was de waxed or not).

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 12:13:39 -0700, wrote:

hey, Tom-
that's an interesting sounding report you cite. do ya know if it's
available online, and if so do you have a link for us?

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...ing%20Wood.pdf




Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

Jack Novak responds:

One thought regarding the shellac, doesn't shellac melt at body
temperature? If one were to lean on a tool, for example, leaning on the
table saw with one hand while making adjustments or reaching down for to
retrieve a dropped arbor nut (I know, professionals never drop that
nut), is is possible that you could melt through the finish?

According to a Google search the melting point of waxed shellac is somewhere
between 77 C and 90 C (170 F - 194 F). The melting point for dewaxed shellac
would
be higher.

So, basically, it seems if you're warm enough to melt shellac, you're also warm
enough that it doesn't make a bit of difference to you.

Charlie Self

"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken

IIRC, mechanical action and enzymes in the digestive system can dissolve a
nail, so a shellac coated pill should be a comparative piece of cake ...
literally.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message

Interesting, that raises another question, if the melting point of
shellac is so high, how do candies and medications that are coated with
shellac ever get digested?

In article ,
says...
Mark & Juanita wrote:

One thought regarding the shellac, doesn't shellac melt at body
temperature? If one were to lean on a tool, for example, leaning on the
table saw with one hand while making adjustments or reaching down for to
retrieve a dropped arbor nut (I know, professionals never drop that
nut), is is possible that you could melt through the finish?

According to a Google search the melting point of waxed shellac is somewhere
between 77 C and 90 C (170 F - 194 F). The melting point for dewaxed shellac would
be higher.


Interesting, that raises another question, if the melting point of
shellac is so high, how do candies and medications that are coated with
shellac ever get digested?

Mark & Juanita wrote:
Interesting, that raises another question, if the melting point of
shellac is so high, how do candies and medications that are coated with
shellac ever get digested?

Ads for candies that "melt in your mouth" notwithstanding, digestion has
little to do with melting. The human digestive tract subjects food to a
sequence of acids and enzymes which break it down by chemical means.

In article .com,
says...
IIRC, mechanical action and enzymes in the digestive system can dissolve a
nail, so a shellac coated pill should be a comparative piece of cake ...
literally.



duh. Good point. Crawling back into the corner now.

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 19:32:39 GMT, Tom Watson
wrote:

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 12:13:39 -0700, wrote:

hey, Tom-
that's an interesting sounding report you cite. do ya know if it's
available online, and if so do you have a link for us?

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...ing%20Wood.pdf


thanks
Bridger

Jack Novak responds:

According to a Google search the melting point of waxed shellac is somewhere
between 77 C and 90 C (170 F - 194 F). The melting point for dewaxed shellac
would be higher.

Does shellac melt like ice or like butter? I.e. does it soften significantly
at body temperature or is it quite hard until it gets near the melting point?
I don't know, but I'd guess that if it's soft at body temp, it could still
be a problem.

Mike

Used to use shellac on M&M's.


On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:08:53 GMT, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

In article .com,
says...
IIRC, mechanical action and enzymes in the digestive system can dissolve a
nail, so a shellac coated pill should be a comparative piece of cake ...
literally.



duh. Good point. Crawling back into the corner now.

M&M's has never used a shellac on their products. Always have used a very high
quality foodgrade carnauba wax.

"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote:

Used to use shellac on M&M's.

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:08:53 GMT, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

In article .com,
says...
IIRC, mechanical action and enzymes in the digestive system can dissolve a
nail, so a shellac coated pill should be a comparative piece of cake ...
literally.



duh. Good point. Crawling back into the corner now.

--
I AM NOT PARANOID .. .. .. but EVERYONE thinks I am !! !! !!

__ Bob __

From: Tom Watson

I'll agree that Florida's air is usually juicier than Pennsyltucky air
but I wonder if the temperature of your equipment falls below the dew
point any more frequently than mine does here in my shop (that is in a
hollow, twenty feet from a stream).


My tools probably rarely fall below the dew point. That proximity to the
stream probably also has a significant impact. All things considered,
including the window shaker I run in the no-car-garage non-stop from March to
November, my shop conditions are probably better for preventing rust than
yours.

I've not tried
the Boeshield and wax treatment but might, if the shellac idea doesn't
pan out.

I happened upon it by chance. My table saw was a floor model, and the store
owner's wife gave it a coat of Boeshield right before I bought it. I gave it a
coat of wax a week or so after I got it home. About a year later, I was
reading a thread on the Wreck about preventing rust and it hit me, I hadn't
recoated my table saw in a year. My guess is that the Boeshield protects the
steel, and the wax keeps the Boeshield from being rubbed off.


David

remove the key to email me.

Bob- just repeating what I read in a book on finishing. Doesn't matter
to me. They taste just as good now as they did in 1953!


On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:41:51 GMT, "___ Bob ___"
wrote:

M&M's has never used a shellac on their products. Always have used a very high
quality foodgrade carnauba wax.

"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote:

Used to use shellac on M&M's.

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:08:53 GMT, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

In article .com,
says...
IIRC, mechanical action and enzymes in the digestive system can dissolve a
nail, so a shellac coated pill should be a comparative piece of cake ...
literally.



duh. Good point. Crawling back into the corner now.

nospam states:

hey, Tom-
that's an interesting sounding report you cite. do ya know if it's
available online, and if so do you have a link for us?

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...ing%20Wood.pdf


thanks

And remember, that's a take-out from public domain info in the Wood Handbook,
1999 edition. That's downloadable, or Lee Valley will sell you the whole
shebang for about 20 bucks, IIRC (I think that's what I paid for my copy). A
short ton of good info on wood and its uses.

Charlie Self

"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:14:48 GMT, Tom Watson
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:30:27 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I'm from Missouri.

Guess you'll have to move.

No, if I were IN Misery, erm, Missouri, I'd have to move.
Ick!


Show me.

"MEE (Moisture Excluding Effectiveness) of "Paste Furniture Wax": One
Coat = 6%; Two Coats = 11%; Three Coats = 17%."

Try Waterlox, their "floor sealer". It scored 88% on the first
day.


(Forest Products Laboratory, General Tech Report, FPL-GTR-113,
1999.)

Wow, metallic forest products are new to me. Tell me: from which
forest product is cast iron made, Tom? Don't those figures tell
you that the wood breathes? Wouldn't metal breathe much less?
I don't feel that the cite is valid in this instance. YMMV


If you can't knock off the dust and nibs without taking off the
finish, you need to take a good look at your technique - or maybe you
should switch to 4/0 steel wool from whatever you're using.

Maybe the CA nibs were tougher or the shop dirtier in Vista.

What's your shop humidity, Tom? Do you let it go cold at night
so there are huge temp swings? Why do you have such bad rust
problems with all the right (normally used) products?


================================================== ============
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http://www/diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
================================================== ============

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:14:48 GMT, Tom Watson
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:30:27 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I'm from Missouri.

Guess you'll have to move.

No, if I were IN Misery, erm, Missouri, I'd have to move.
Ick!


Show me.

"MEE (Moisture Excluding Effectiveness) of "Paste Furniture Wax": One
Coat = 6%; Two Coats = 11%; Three Coats = 17%."

Try Waterlox, their "floor sealer". It scored 88% on the first
day.


(Forest Products Laboratory, General Tech Report, FPL-GTR-113,
1999.)

Wow, metallic forest products are new to me. Tell me: from which
forest product is cast iron made, Tom? Don't those figures tell
you that the wood breathes? Wouldn't metal breathe much less?
I don't feel that the cite is valid in this instance. YMMV


If you can't knock off the dust and nibs without taking off the
finish, you need to take a good look at your technique - or maybe you
should switch to 4/0 steel wool from whatever you're using.

Maybe the CA nibs were tougher or the shop dirtier in Vista.

What's your shop humidity, Tom? Do you let it go cold at night
so there are huge temp swings? Why do you have such bad rust
problems with all the right (normally used) products?


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On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 01:03:51 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:


I don't feel that the cite is valid in this instance. YMMV


What a maroon.



Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

J Pagona aka Y.B. wrote:

to cut down on the friction when in use, and I have never heard of it
interfering with
a finish. No scientific study, just a casual observation.

I can see where it could though. I've actually planed hard enough to melt
the wax on the cheeks, though I don't think the bottom. My shooting board
has a big waxy streak across it.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 20:36:43 -0500, Tom Watson
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 01:03:51 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I don't feel that the cite is valid in this instance. YMMV

What a maroon.

Your mileage obviously varies, to which I reply "Pfffffffft!"


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"Tom Watson" wrote in message
s.com...

It was an act of desperation.
Since that sucked, I decided to try other things.


Ya know - at the price of a can of TopSheildCoatUrBoats or whatever it's
called, you could'a moved to Denver.
So damned dry here, you cry everytime you blow your nose in the winter.
[The upside is the static shocks you can impart on an unsuspecting loved
one, will keep you entertained for hours.]