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Aaron
 
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Default Pergo wood flooring, how to take apart to fix broken spot

Hi, was wondering if anyone could help me.
I installed the floor about 2 years ago and now have a spot that needs
to be repaired.
When I did the install, I cut and glued all the pieces together and now
I need to find a way to get them apart...
Anyone have a good idea/plan to get the glue loosened up at my starting
point?

I tried a clothes iron, to try to heat the tiles up some, but that
didnt work..

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Aaron

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HL
 
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A router with a straight bit and a straight edge guide. Cut the rectangle
out, then cut the patch the same size then glue in place. You will need to
trim the curved corners in the hole with a utility knife and chisel.
Practise on some scrap first.


"Aaron" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi, was wondering if anyone could help me.
I installed the floor about 2 years ago and now have a spot that needs
to be repaired.
When I did the install, I cut and glued all the pieces together and now
I need to find a way to get them apart...
Anyone have a good idea/plan to get the glue loosened up at my starting
point?

I tried a clothes iron, to try to heat the tiles up some, but that
didnt work..

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Aaron



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Cooper
 
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Default


"Aaron" wrote in message
Hi, was wondering if anyone could help me.
I installed the floor about 2 years ago and now have a spot that needs
to be repaired.
When I did the install, I cut and glued all the pieces together and now
I need to find a way to get them apart...
Anyone have a good idea/plan to get the glue loosened up at my starting
point?

I tried a clothes iron, to try to heat the tiles up some, but that
didnt work..

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Aaron


To do this right, takes some experience and the right tools. You can not
undo the glue.

Mark all 4 corners of the tile 1" in. Mark a line all the way around the
tile point to point. Take a drill with a 3/8" bit. Mark the bit with tape
for the depth so you don't drill too deep. Take a circular saw, with depth
set precise, you don't even want to cut into the pad or vapor barrier. Cut
the line all the way around. CAREFUL, so you don't cut into the good tiles,
you will NOT be able to cut all the way to the hole because your circular
saw blade will hit the good tiles. Take a chisel and hammer to finish the
saw cut to the holes. Since you probably don't have a small suction cup
made to lift out the tile piece, use a toilet plunger. Lift the existing
floor up carefully with a pry bar about 1/2" on one side. Slide a piece of
scrap flooring to hold up in the air (if you drill a hole through the
scrape, and tie a piece of twine to it, it makes retrieving the scrape
easy). Take a razor knife to finish to the corner. Take pliers and wiggle
to break off the tongue and groove on one side. Do this to all 4 sides.
Have a vacuum handy to keep debris from going under floor, vacuum
frequently. Take a chisel GENTLY to undercut the existing floor by shaving
the hidden side down. You need a router and loose tongue (8mm) bit. Set
router depth to new piece. Have the existing floor elevated by your scrap
slid under it. Router all four sides of the existing floor. Place loose
tongue for a DRY fit. Take new piece of tile, with hidden side up(not face
side up), lay on a scrap piece of plywood. Take circular saw with depth set
precise to cut of existing tongue. Reset depth to cut off only the bottom
of the groove. You will want to cut the bottom of tile on the sides you
removed tongue, so it will rest on the loose tongue. DRY fit into area. If
you need to raise the piece, use drywall tape, adding layers as needed. If
too high, you can cut down the last groove with circular say. Just a tad
bit more depth than precise. DRY fit again and again until perfect. Take
out loose tongue, apply manufacturers recommended glue. Apply same glue to
the to the tile where it will sit on the loose tongue. Double check fit to
make sure there are no ridges. Place a large Glad Bag full of sand or some
kind of weight on the tile for 24 hrs.

Or...... You can pay someone who does this everyday, about $150 with you
supplying the tile.


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Aaron
 
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Thank you for this great writeup, sounds WAY more complicated than I
wanted to get into, but I may still give it a try.
Thank you again for your insight.

Aaron

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I'd definitely use the router, not a circular saw as it's a lot easier
to control. Unless
you're particularly handy, it's going to be easier to pay someone with
experience to
do the repair.



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Cooper
 
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wrote
I'd definitely use the router, not a circular saw as it's a lot easier
to control. Unless
you're particularly handy, it's going to be easier to pay someone with
experience to
do the repair.


Actually I use a Makita 14.4, 3-3/8" saw, bought just for this purpose and
use a carbide 20 tooth blade. I never have and never will use a router to
cut out a tile or plank.

It may be easier to use a router for a novice.

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