I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3. Cleaned
up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all four.
(Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes line up,
but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?

Cast iron is relatively easy to drill. Make sure that the holes
are where you want them. Use a center punch to give yourself a
good starting point. Use a good fresh bit about a 3/16 drill
bit. Keep steady pressure and a slow speed. As long as the bit
is making chips or curls everything is fine, just concentrate on
steady pressure and drilling straight. It should go through
fairly quickly. Follow with the appropriate bit for the size bolt
you are using.

You probably do not need lubricant.



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"toller" wrote in message
...
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for
$3. Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them
on all four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping
the other holes line up, but better check before I do any new
drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial
drill and a big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went
out of business, but it looks pretty thick. I know I have to
keep oil on the surface, anything else?

the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section castings
sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole location
is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.


"toller" wrote in message
...
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes
line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?

toller wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3. Cleaned
up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all four.
(Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes line up,
but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?

Couple more things from an old machinist. Make sure your drill does not
have a flat spot in the webbing. If it does it needs a pilot hole or it
will want to wander. With cast iron, even water is a suitable coolant.

Frank

"bill a" wrote in message
. com...

"toller" wrote in message
...
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes
line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and
a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but
it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?



the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section
castings
sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole
location
is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.


Ermm........

Slower rpms is generally not advisable when using carbide tooling........

Not gonna get into the "why" part of the deal here--so you hafta just trust
me on it this time is all, but in short, I guess I'll just
add.......Ker-blang!!!

--

SVL

PrecisionMachinisT wrote:
"bill a" wrote in message
. com...

"toller" wrote in message
...

I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other

holes

line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and

a

big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but

it

looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?



the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section

castings

sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole

location

is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.

Ermm........

Slower rpms is generally not advisable when using carbide tooling........

Not gonna get into the "why" part of the deal here--so you hafta just trust
me on it this time is all, but in short, I guess I'll just
add.......Ker-blang!!!

Heh, missed that. Correct.
Frank

"bill a" wrote in message
. com...
the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section
castings sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole
location is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.

A masonry carbide bit, or something special?

A traditional type carbide twist drill is hard to find in retail (and
expensive) so I think you could try it with a new masonry point. Cast iron
doesn't need much in the way of chip control geometry.
Try it first with a regular drill bit, though. The iron might machine like
butter

"toller" wrote in message
...

"bill a" wrote in message
. com...
the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section
castings sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole
location is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.

A masonry carbide bit, or something special?

bill a wrote:
A traditional type carbide twist drill is hard to find in retail (and
expensive) so I think you could try it with a new masonry point. Cast
iron doesn't need much in the way of chip control geometry.

Try it first with a regular drill bit, though. The iron might machine
like butter

Most often it will. If a masonry bit is required it could be a disaster
without a pilot hole. Masonry bit are usually flat on the tip (in
center) so *that* part doesn't really cut and it will often elongate the
hole and wander.

"toller" wrote:

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all four.
(Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes line up,
but better check before I do any new drilling...)

I had no troubles drilling holes in 50's vintage craftsman table saw, to
add a Jet fence. Sharp bit, and center punch should be all you need.

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:51:08 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3. Cleaned
up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all four.
(Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes line up,
but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?


Use a slow speed and make a dimple in the iron before drilling. You
could make a ring of clay around the drill area to keep a small pool
of oil. It should bore easily.

In article , toller wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3. Cleaned
up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all four.
(Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other holes line up,
but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?



The type of cast iron used for a saw table is not hard to drill
and lubrication is not required either. Just mark your positions with
a center punch and take your time.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

(Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in
:

In article , toller
wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill
and a big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of
business, but it looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the
surface, anything else?



The type of cast iron used for a saw table is not hard to drill
and lubrication is not required either. Just mark your positions with
a center punch and take your time.



I should think that using lubrication would be better for your drill bits.
Unless you only use them once and dispose of them after one use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

PrecisionMachinisT posted for all of us....


"bill a" wrote in message
. com...

"toller" wrote in message
...
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes
line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill and
a
big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of business, but
it
looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the surface, anything
else?



the post from DanG is correct, but one caution is that thin section
castings
sometimes
can have chill spots, which are very hard. If you have a hole that is
particulary difficult, and the
drillbit dulls, chill iron is probably the culprit. If that hole
location
is a must, you may need to use
a carbide bit, slower rpms, and some lubricant.


Ermm........

Slower rpms is generally not advisable when using carbide tooling........

Not gonna get into the "why" part of the deal here--so you hafta just trust
me on it this time is all, but in short, I guess I'll just
add.......Ker-blang!!!


I would be interested either here or in email. Thanks!
--
Tekkie

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .
(Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in
:

In article , toller
wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill
and a big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of
business, but it looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the
surface, anything else?



The type of cast iron used for a saw table is not hard to drill
and lubrication is not required either. Just mark your positions with
a center punch and take your time.



I should think that using lubrication would be better for your drill bits.
Unless you only use them once and dispose of them after one use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

Lubricant/coolant is not needed for cast iron.

"Oscar_Lives" wrote in message
news:3zSpd.157991$R05.142074@attbi_s53...

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .
(Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in
:

In article , toller
wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill
and a big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of
business, but it looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the
surface, anything else?



The type of cast iron used for a saw table is not hard to drill
and lubrication is not required either. Just mark your positions with
a center punch and take your time.



I should think that using lubrication would be better for your drill
bits.
Unless you only use them once and dispose of them after one use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

Lubricant/coolant is not needed for cast iron.

Correct - it will just create mud.

"Clark Griswold" wrote in message
news:ft0qd.675839$8_6.85463@attbi_s04...
"Oscar_Lives" wrote in message
news:3zSpd.157991$R05.142074@attbi_s53...

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .
(Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in
:

In article , toller
wrote:
I have a table saw with two stamped metal wings.
I found a cast iron table from an old saw at a garage sale for $3.
Cleaned up it should make a great wing.

Unfortunately it only has holes on three sides, and I need them on all
four. (Since both it an my saw are craftsman, I am hoping the other
holes line up, but better check before I do any new drilling...)

Any advice on drilling additional holes? I have an industrial drill
and a big pile of drill bits I got when a tool shop went out of
business, but it looks pretty thick. I know I have to keep oil on the
surface, anything else?



The type of cast iron used for a saw table is not hard to drill
and lubrication is not required either. Just mark your positions with
a center punch and take your time.



I should think that using lubrication would be better for your drill
bits.
Unless you only use them once and dispose of them after one use.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

Lubricant/coolant is not needed for cast iron.

Correct - it will just create mud.


Thank you for the affirmation. I feel like more of a man now.