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Al Kondo
 
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Default Need suggestions for frugal DIY kitchen countertops

I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo
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Eric Tonks
 
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That depth sounds like the standard postformed counterton for bathroom
cabinets.

"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo



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Martik
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??


Just use laminate sheets and glue them down, trim with a router and laminate
trim bit. Moderate skills req'd. You can optionally use ceramic tiles for
the backsplash and/or wood trim (oak) for the front edges. I have used 2'x4'
'handy panels' to do a whole bathroom for $8 (2 sheets)


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Julie
 
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"Al Kondo" wrote

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??


You should seriously consider some kind of tile. It's not $8, but it'll
last a whole lot longer (think heat and sharps), and look a whole lot
better. Ceramic at somewhere near $2/sf, and you can get decent plain
colors of granite for maybe $7/sf. Rent a wet saw for a day.

JSH


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Charles Spitzer
 
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"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo


concrete. tile (ceramic, granite). butcher-block.

if you're a diy, there's lots of other options besides laminate, imho, a lot
better.




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Charles Spitzer
 
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"Julie" wrote in message
...
"Al Kondo" wrote

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??


You should seriously consider some kind of tile. It's not $8, but it'll
last a whole lot longer (think heat and sharps), and look a whole lot
better. Ceramic at somewhere near $2/sf, and you can get decent plain
colors of granite for maybe $7/sf. Rent a wet saw for a day.

JSH


look for closeouts of granite tiles. i bought about 200 sqft of 12" granite
tiles for my kitchen at $1/ft.


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Inspector D
 
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Charles Spitzer wrote:
"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...

I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo



concrete. tile (ceramic, granite). butcher-block.

if you're a diy, there's lots of other options besides laminate, imho, a lot
better.


You might even consider poured concrete with a "hard trowel" finish.
I've seen it done and it looks great. You can even add a color. Not
much more "DYI" than that!
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Colbyt
 
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"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo



A couple of things for you to consider. Most of the post formed countertops
sold at Lowes and Home Depot are 24" countertops. I suggest you go to one
of those place and measure for yourself and not trust what you are told. The
front edge has a lip that drops below the actual bottom of the counter. By
design those can be installed two different ways. You can add a shim board
to the top of the cabinets everywhere except the front edge to allow for
deeper cabinets or you can let in hang over by about an inch or even a
little more for shallower cabinets. Go look at them and measure for
yourself.

The other thing is that in a tight situation you can remove about a half
inch of depth by cutting off the built up lip at the top of the splash.
This was not easy but I have done. Again you will see what I mean if you go
measure for yourself.

You can also build your own counter using HD particle board and gluing on
your own laminate. This will always cost more than the post-formed guys at
HD or Lowes.

If none of this solves your problem, 3/4" plywood, hardibacker and tile or
granite built on site is your next best option.

Colbyt


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willshak
 
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Default

On 11/18/2004 8:12 PM US(ET), Colbyt took fingers to keys, and typed the
following:

"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...


I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo




A couple of things for you to consider. Most of the post formed countertops
sold at Lowes and Home Depot are 24" countertops. I suggest you go to one
of those place and measure for yourself and not trust what you are told. The
front edge has a lip that drops below the actual bottom of the counter. By
design those can be installed two different ways. You can add a shim board
to the top of the cabinets everywhere except the front edge to allow for
deeper cabinets or you can let in hang over by about an inch or even a
little more for shallower cabinets. Go look at them and measure for
yourself.



Wrong! They are 25-1/4" inches overall in depth. The bull nose extends
beyond the front of a 24" cabinet by 1-1/4".
You have to cover the cabinet top with 1/2" plywood, or just use 1/2"
spacers on the top edges of the cabinet, or else the bullnose will sit
too low and you couldn't open the top drawers.
The optional color coded end covers come with 1/2" spacers for the sides
of the cabinet, but you have to make your own 1/2" spacers for the front
and back edges.

The other thing is that in a tight situation you can remove about a half
inch of depth by cutting off the built up lip at the top of the splash.
This was not easy but I have done. Again you will see what I mean if you go
measure for yourself.

You can also build your own counter using HD particle board and gluing on
your own laminate. This will always cost more than the post-formed guys at
HD or Lowes.

If none of this solves your problem, 3/4" plywood, hardibacker and tile or
granite built on site is your next best option.

Colbyt






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Chris Perdue
 
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From: willshak

Wrong! They are 25-1/4" inches overall in depth. The bull nose extends
beyond the front of a 24" cabinet by 1-1/4".


the standard is 25 inches...this allows a stanard one inch overhang on a
standard 24 inch deep base cabinet...

You have to cover the cabinet top with 1/2" plywood, or just use 1/2"
spacers on the top edges of the cabinet, or else the bullnose will sit
too low and you couldn't open the top drawers.


this is called "buildup"...most top fab shops(which is where your local lowes
contracts to buy "custom tops"(meaning anything other than blanks) use two inch
wide by 1/2 or 3/4 (dependingon manufacturer) for build up(which yields a top
that is 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches thick)...you can install the top without buildup
and without interference with drawers or doors if you do not have full overlay
doors/drawers.....

The optional color coded end covers come with 1/2" spacers for the sides
of the cabinet, but you have to make your own 1/2" spacers for the front
and back edges.


those spacers are just to make the end solid for the cap...the top edge of the
backsplash usually measures 3/8-1/2 inch(again depending on manufacturer) used
for "scribing" the top to fit your wall(unfortunately there are virtually no
straight walls)....


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Michelle and Steve
 
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http://www.techstone.ca/do_it_e.html

This is a coating that can go on existing counter tops. I've seen it done
and it looks AMAZING. From all accounts it also works and holds up
amazingly well. We're going to be doing it on our countertops when we redo
the kitchen later this winter.

Stevie Z




"Al Kondo" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of refurbishing my kitchen. I recently refaced
the cabinets and now I am in the processing of replacing our current
laminate countertop. As a recent retiree, I am doing all of this
work myself. I am no expert in this work, but I am very handy. In
the past two years, I have replaced our ceiling sheetrock and
refinished all of our hardwood floors.

My first choice for a countertop of reasonable cost was a postform
countertop. However, I have found that these tops come in a standard
25" width. Unfortunately, my countertops are about 23.5" in width.
I was told that if I want to stick to this option, I would have to cut
off the 4" backsplash or the waterfall front of the postform top. I
don't like either option. Are there other kinds of countertops that
I should be considering.... or, is this the best for the price??

Al Kondo



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Jeff Cochran
 
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Wrong! They are 25-1/4" inches overall in depth. The bull nose extends
beyond the front of a 24" cabinet by 1-1/4".
You have to cover the cabinet top with 1/2" plywood, or just use 1/2"
spacers on the top edges of the cabinet, or else the bullnose will sit
too low and you couldn't open the top drawers.


Wrong! Countetops come already built-up and need no 1/2" plywood or
spacers front and back.

Unless of course you order them that way, since you can order any size
and any construction you want.

Jeff
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Chris Perdue
 
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From: Jeff Cochran


Wrong! Countetops come already built-up and need no 1/2" plywood or
spacers front and back.

Unless of course you order them that way,


a standard postformed top purchased at a boxstore, off the shelf will indeed
need buildup unless you want it to lap over the front of the cabinets....if you
order one made to order it will come with build up installed.....the topshop
that the boxstore buys from (local shop) will "build" the top for install.....
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