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rickm
 
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Default Fluorescent lighting question

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.
  #2   Report Post  
Tony Hwang
 
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rickm wrote:
I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.

Hi,
Think they are paired two inside two outside. Ballast may be gone.
Open the cover in the middle and you'll see them.
Tony
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Jeff Wisnia
 
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rickm wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


Most likely the ballast. Maybe a bad socket, but that's a stretch.

A decent ballast for two 40W bulbs should cost less than $20, even if
bought at an Ace Hardware store.

You might also look for specials on dual 40W hanging fixtures which
sometimes sell for less than $15. Take it apart, toss out the sheetmetal
and get a ballast plus two bulbs and four spare sockets for that price. G

Jeff

--
My name is Jeff Wisnia and I approved this message....

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #4   Report Post  
None
 
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I agree.

It is most likely the ballast.

PJ
South Jersey
  #5   Report Post  
rickm
 
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Jeff Wisnia wrote:
rickm wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all.
I replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.



Most likely the ballast. Maybe a bad socket, but that's a stretch.

A decent ballast for two 40W bulbs should cost less than $20, even if
bought at an Ace Hardware store.

You might also look for specials on dual 40W hanging fixtures which
sometimes sell for less than $15. Take it apart, toss out the sheetmetal
and get a ballast plus two bulbs and four spare sockets for that price.
G


Better yet buy it, take the parts, sell it at a garage sale for 20.00.
Maybe 30.00 on ebay.


  #6   Report Post  
Tim Keating
 
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Default

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 17:14:56 -0400, rickm
wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A high humidity location..

outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


Make sure power is off and then clean the fixture.
Clean exposed parts except for the interior portion of the bulb
sockets.
Clean the old fluorescent bulbs and let them dry.
Put old bulbs back in.
There is a good chance that it will work again.

Note: Over time, a thin film of grime accumulates on all exposed
surfaces and its conductivity varies by humidity. The grime
provides alternate electrical paths and essentially shorts out the
fluorescent fixture to the point where it fails to light.

The more conductive the grime(higher humidity) == less chance the
bulbs will light up.
  #7   Report Post  
Joe Fabeitz
 
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Bull****!
"Tim Keating" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 17:14:56 -0400, rickm
wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A high humidity location..

outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


Make sure power is off and then clean the fixture.
Clean exposed parts except for the interior portion of the bulb
sockets.
Clean the old fluorescent bulbs and let them dry.
Put old bulbs back in.
There is a good chance that it will work again.

Note: Over time, a thin film of grime accumulates on all exposed
surfaces and its conductivity varies by humidity. The grime
provides alternate electrical paths and essentially shorts out the
fluorescent fixture to the point where it fails to light.

The more conductive the grime(higher humidity) == less chance the
bulbs will light up.



  #8   Report Post  
Tim Keating
 
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Default

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:02:39 -0400, "Joe Fabeitz"
wrote:

Bull****!


You're a moron..
I've rejuvenated several fluorescent fixtures just by cleaning
them.

"Tim Keating" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 17:14:56 -0400, rickm
wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A high humidity location..

outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


Make sure power is off and then clean the fixture.
Clean exposed parts except for the interior portion of the bulb
sockets.
Clean the old fluorescent bulbs and let them dry.
Put old bulbs back in.
There is a good chance that it will work again.

Note: Over time, a thin film of grime accumulates on all exposed
surfaces and its conductivity varies by humidity. The grime
provides alternate electrical paths and essentially shorts out the
fluorescent fixture to the point where it fails to light.

The more conductive the grime(higher humidity) == less chance the
bulbs will light up.



  #9   Report Post  
Don Klipstein
 
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Default

In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Most likely the ballast. Maybe a bad socket, but that's a stretch.

A decent ballast for two 40W bulbs should cost less than $20, even if
bought at an Ace Hardware store.

You might also look for specials on dual 40W hanging fixtures which
sometimes sell for less than $15. Take it apart, toss out the sheetmetal
and get a ballast plus two bulbs and four spare sockets for that price. G


I am wary of the ballasts in cheap fixtures sold in hardware stores and
home centers, and even a few not-really-cheap fixtures. There is such a
piece of garbage as what is often called a "residential grade" ballast.
You can get as little as half the normal light output from the bulbs with
these, and I suspect also sometimes reduced bulb life.
If the ballast comes from a fixture with chains, it may overheat in a
fixture mounted flush against a ceiling or a beam.

If the ballast is bad, I would replace it with a decent one. I think
ballasts sold separately at hardware stores and home centers are still
good.

- Don Klipstein )
  #10   Report Post  
Don Klipstein
 
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Default

In article , Tim Keating wrote:
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:02:39 -0400, "Joe Fabeitz"
wrote:

Bull****!


You're a moron..
I've rejuvenated several fluorescent fixtures just by cleaning
them.


I know this is sometimes true. A film of conductive grime on the bulbs
can afect the electric field distribution within ones that are trying to
start.
So can lack of grounding. Bulbs sometimes fail to start if the fixture
is not grounded.

But also check for any of the other usual suspects - bad ballast, bad or
corroded socket, whatever.

- Don Klipstein , http://www.misty.com/~don/ltrouble.html)


  #11   Report Post  
Joe Fabeitz
 
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Default

Your "Note" at the end of your post is BULL****! If that were the case,
every automotive repair shop in the country would be operating in the dark.
The grime on the flourescent tubes is so thick, even the light can't get
through, BUT THEY STILL LIGHT.
1) The grime does NOT conduct.
2) It's conductivity does NOT vary with humidity.
3) The grime does NOT provide "...an alternate electrical path..."

Stick to what you know.

And another thing...how did you find out I'm a moron? Who squealed?


"Tim Keating" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:02:39 -0400, "Joe Fabeitz"
wrote:

Bull****!


You're a moron..
I've rejuvenated several fluorescent fixtures just by cleaning
them.

"Tim Keating" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 17:14:56 -0400, rickm
wrote:

I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A high humidity location..

outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all.

I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.

Make sure power is off and then clean the fixture.
Clean exposed parts except for the interior portion of the bulb
sockets.
Clean the old fluorescent bulbs and let them dry.
Put old bulbs back in.
There is a good chance that it will work again.

Note: Over time, a thin film of grime accumulates on all exposed
surfaces and its conductivity varies by humidity. The grime
provides alternate electrical paths and essentially shorts out the
fluorescent fixture to the point where it fails to light.

The more conductive the grime(higher humidity) == less chance the
bulbs will light up.





  #12   Report Post  
Mike Fritz
 
Posts: n/a
Default

rickm wrote:
I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


This might be a good time to upgrade to the new electronic ballast that
use T8 lamps. I don't have the numbers with me, but T8 lamps with the
electronic ballast produce more light and consume less energy than the
T12 you probably have right now.
--Mike
  #13   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
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Default

Don Klipstein wrote:

In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Most likely the ballast. Maybe a bad socket, but that's a stretch.

A decent ballast for two 40W bulbs should cost less than $20, even if
bought at an Ace Hardware store.

You might also look for specials on dual 40W hanging fixtures which
sometimes sell for less than $15. Take it apart, toss out the sheetmetal
and get a ballast plus two bulbs and four spare sockets for that price. G



I am wary of the ballasts in cheap fixtures sold in hardware stores and
home centers, and even a few not-really-cheap fixtures. There is such a
piece of garbage as what is often called a "residential grade" ballast.
You can get as little as half the normal light output from the bulbs with
these, and I suspect also sometimes reduced bulb life.
If the ballast comes from a fixture with chains, it may overheat in a
fixture mounted flush against a ceiling or a beam.


Good points Don, especially the overheating one. I'm sort of glad I put
that G after my "suggestion".

I was once shocked, just shocked, to find a cheap flourescent fixture
with no inductive ballast at all, It used just a series capacitor. Yes,
just a capacitor. No, it wasn't an "electronic ballast", 'cause it was
at least 20 years ago.

Jeff

--
My name is Jeff Wisnia and I approved this message....

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #14   Report Post  
Dave
 
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Also the cold starting feature of the new ballasts is really important in a
garage. I switched over and never looked back.

Dave


"Mike Fritz" wrote in message
nk.net...
rickm wrote:
I have a fixture in my kitchen that has (4) 40W bulbs. Last week the
outer bulbs grew dim and finally the fixture quit lighting up at all. I
replaced the bulbs today...and the outer bulbs are not working. I've
tried replacing all 4 bulbs, still the outers aren't work (even put a
known good bulb in each of the outer locations). Is this the sign of a
bad ballast or another issue? All connections are nice and tight.


This might be a good time to upgrade to the new electronic ballast that
use T8 lamps. I don't have the numbers with me, but T8 lamps with the
electronic ballast produce more light and consume less energy than the T12
you probably have right now.
--Mike



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