I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.
Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of
the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize
compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find
anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to
be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore
conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like
I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize
Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much %
of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this
newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper.
Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize
Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to
the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for
petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is
safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound
for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/bostik.htm

Why wouldn't a spark plug need a conductive anti-sieze compound? It goes
between the plug threads and the block.
The never-sieze compound is good stuff. The plugs in my motorcycles and
outboards seem to conduct fine.
I doubt you could really find any compound that would prevent threaded fittings
from conducting anyway. There will always be significant metal to metal
contact. The anti-sieze is to fill the microscopic voids where corrosion grows.

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.

Any antiseize compound at your auto supply outlet will do just fine. Permatex
makes the kind that mechanics like best.. Some are copper fillled, others are
aluminum filled, both work just fine. HTH

Joe

You don't want antisieze compound, you want anticorrosion or
antioxidation paste; the same stuff you use for aluminum wire. You
can get it at any electrical shop.

Jay Chan wrote:

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.
Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of
the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize
compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find
anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to
be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore
conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like
I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize
Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much %
of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this
newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper.
Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize
Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to
the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for
petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is
safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound
for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/bostik.htm

Thanks for the link. But most of their products don't indicate if they
are food-safe. The only one that is marked as food-safe doesn't say if
it is conductive or not. Oh well...

Jay Chan

Why wouldn't a spark plug need a conductive anti-sieze compound? It goes
between the plug threads and the block.
The never-sieze compound is good stuff. The plugs in my motorcycles and
outboards seem to conduct fine.

I read some articles in the web saying that conductive anti-seize
compound on spark plug may come in contact with the electrical
compound in the spark plug and cause some misfire or something...
(sound like an operator error) I am not sure if this is true or not. I
am just repeating what I came across in the web.

I doubt you could really find any compound that would prevent threaded
fittings from conducting anyway. There will always be significant metal
to metal contact. The anti-sieze is to fill the microscopic voids where
corrosion grows.

Yours is a very good point. Seem like I am better off simply use
regular teflon tape, and wrap the thread 3/4 way and leave 1/4 to have
solid contact. Good to know this. Thanks.

Jay Chan

You don't want antisieze compound, you want anticorrosion or
antioxidation paste; the same stuff you use for aluminum wire. You
can get it at any electrical shop.

I saw the type that you mentioned when I asked for anti-seize compound
in the maintenance department in where I work yesterday. It is
designed specifically for electronical compounds. But its label warns
against using it near food. I don't think I will use it near drinking
water.

Thanks anyway.

Jay Chan

Any antiseize compound at your auto supply outlet will do just fine. Permatex
makes the kind that mechanics like best.. Some are copper fillled, others are
aluminum filled, both work just fine. HTH

Sound like the auto supply store where I went is not well stocked.

Anyway, I have decided not to use anti-seize compound. Instead, I will
wrap the thread 3/4 way with teflon tape and leave 1/4 threaded
surface to have a solid contact. Then, I will have an easy time to
unscrew it next year while the anode rod still has contact with the
water heater body to allow it to function.

Jay Chan

On 11 Oct 2004 06:20:02 -0700, (Jay Chan) wrote:

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.
Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of
the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize
compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find
anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to
be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore
conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like
I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize
Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much %
of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this
newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper.
Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize
Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to
the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for
petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is
safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound
for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

They do make such stuff. I have a bottle at work. I will try and post
the info tomorrow.

On 11 Oct 2004 06:20:02 -0700, (Jay Chan) wrote:

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.
Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of
the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize
compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find
anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to
be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore
conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like
I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize
Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much %
of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this
newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper.
Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize
Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to
the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for
petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is
safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound
for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

http://shopping.netledger.com/s.nl/c...ddef 30721d32

On 11 Oct 2004 06:20:02 -0700, (Jay Chan) wrote:

I would like to know where I can find conductive anti-seize compound.
Then I can use it to re-secure an anode rod on a water-heater. None of
the home center or plumbing supply stores in my area carry anti-seize
compound conductive or non-conductive. The only place that I can find
anti-seize compound is in an auto-supply store but it doesn't seem to
be conductive (they use anti-seize compound on spark plugs; therefore
conductive anti-seize compound probably is not a good idea). Seem like
I should mail order it from internet.

I find in internet something called a "Copper Based Anti-Seize
Compound". But it doesn't say whether it is conductive, nor how much %
of copper it has. I am under the impression from reading in this
newsgroup that I should get anti-seize compound that has 80% copper.
Without knowing the % of copper in it. I hesitate to order it.

I also find in internet something called "Arrow 09 Copper Anti-Seize
Grease" from Arrow Engineering. It is fully conductive according to
the product specification. It says it is lead-free and is great for
petrochemical industrial for oil piping. But it doesn't say if it is
safe to use with residential drinking water supply.

Please help me to find a source of a conductive anti-seize compound
for securing anode rod in a water heater.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan
http://www.radio-ware.com/products/i601.htm

I have decided to use teflon tape to wrap 3/4 of the threaded area and
leave the rest to have solid contact. This means I don't intend to use
anti-seize compound any more. I appreciate your effort in locating
some of the conductive anti-seize compound. Thanks.

Jay Chan

I have decided to use teflon tape to wrap 3/4 of the threaded area and
leave the rest to have solid contact.

I think you would find that even if you put the teflon tape all the way down
you would still have significant metal to metal contact, assuming you don't use
too much tape. Most homeowners overdo the tape.
Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant.

(Greg) wrote in message ...
I have decided to use teflon tape to wrap 3/4 of the threaded area and
leave the rest to have solid contact.

I think you would find that even if you put the teflon tape all the way down
you would still have significant metal to metal contact, assuming you don't use
too much tape. Most homeowners overdo the tape.
Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant.

Not hardly. Teflon tape is used on gas valves on high pressure cylinders.

Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant.

Not hardly. Teflon tape is used on gas valves on high pressure cylinders.

That has nothing to do with how it works.
Teflon tape simply allows the threads to slide and deform until you get a metal
to metal seal. Teflon is used because it is slippery, not because it seals
well. Pipe dope is grease.
The pipe threads are tapered and that is what seals. It is also why used pipes
don't go together as well as new ones. If there is a sealing function it is on
the microscopic scale. It isn't like a washer or gasket.

"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/bostik.htm

Thanks for the link. But most of their products don't indicate if they
are food-safe. The only one that is marked as food-safe doesn't say if
it is conductive or not. Oh well...

I would like to see an "anti-seize" compound that COULD insulate the two
metal parts from each other.

Even if you used Teflon tape, there would be electrical conductivity. In
the case of an anode in a water take, the current involved is so small that
any contact will "do the job."

Don't worry about it. Make sure it doesn't poison you!

Even if you used Teflon tape, there would be electrical conductivity. In
the case of an anode in a water take, the current involved is so small that
any contact will "do the job."

Good to know that. Seem like I definitely can use teflon tape. I just
need to make sure I don't use too much -- I am the type who tends to
use too much teflon tape.

Jay Chan

The pipe threads are tapered and that is what seals. It is also
why used pipes don't go together as well as new ones.

Is this the same reason why manufacturer recommend us to replace the
gas pipe connecting to a waterheater whenever we replace the
waterheater? (I saw that warning on a package of homeowner waterheater
flexible connecting fittings replacement kit.) Does this mean that the
threads of such gas pipe fitting becomes deformed when it is being
screwed into another fitting?

Jay Chan