I want a light switch with an indicator light. All I can find needs a
neutral. My switch only has hot wire. Any such switch that works with
only hot wire? This is 220 V. Thanks.

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

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On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

My bet is he is not in the US, expand your horizons.
In New Zealand, 220v lighted switches are everywhere.
Typically lighted switches were lit through the load but about 15
years ago NFPA and the testing labs suddenly decided "off" was not
really off since there was still current flowing in the circuit and
these switches were delisted. Previously the acceptable current was
around a half an MA (500 microamps).
In the last couple of cycles the NEC requires a neutral be brought to
all switching locations, just for this reason.

wrote in
:

On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best
bet is to use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC
) in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover
plate that you drilled for the indicator.

My bet is he is not in the US, expand your horizons.
In New Zealand, 220v lighted switches are everywhere.
Typically lighted switches were lit through the load but about 15
years ago NFPA and the testing labs suddenly decided "off" was not
really off since there was still current flowing in the circuit and
these switches were delisted. Previously the acceptable current was
around a half an MA (500 microamps).
In the last couple of cycles the NEC requires a neutral be brought to
all switching locations, just for this reason.


And copper companies made millions!

On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

My bet is he is not in the US, expand your horizons.
In New Zealand, 220v lighted switches are everywhere.
Typically lighted switches were lit through the load but about 15
years ago NFPA and the testing labs suddenly decided "off" was not
really off since there was still current flowing in the circuit and
these switches were delisted. Previously the acceptable current was
around a half an MA (500 microamps).
In the last couple of cycles the NEC requires a neutral be brought to
all switching locations, just for this reason.

Interesting, I didn't know they used to allow using the load for
the indicator light. I thought of that, I was
ready to say it could be done, but then thought about the obvious
problem, the load side is always energized through the indicator
light, even when the switch is off. Figured it wasn't really safe.

replying to gfretwell, Iggy wrote:
No, I get it, but that only makes it more confusing when he's got no
Common/Neutral in place. Therefore, why the in-line Indicator Light is the
only way to go. I know some things about the NEC, especially their
"consultants", are more than a bit flakey, but they can't be that dumb.
Electricity doesn't turn around and walk back to the panel if it's not needed.
I had no trouble finding these indicator switches
http://www.diy.com/departments/20a-s...h/32496_BQ.prd
AND
http://www.diy.com/departments/lap-2.../114572_BQ.prd

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On 11/27/17 7:44 PM, Iggy wrote:
replying to gfretwell, Iggy wrote:
No, I get it, but that only makes it more confusing when he's got no
Common/Neutral in place. Therefore, why the in-line Indicator Light is the
only way to go. I know some things about the NEC, especially their
"consultants", are more than a bit flakey, but they can't be that dumb.
Electricity doesn't turn around and walk back to the panel if it's not
needed.
I had no trouble finding these indicator switches
http://www.diy.com/departments/20a-s...h/32496_BQ.prd

AND
http://www.diy.com/departments/lap-2.../114572_BQ.prd


They're double pole switches.

On 28-Nov-17 4:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

My bet is he is not in the US, expand your horizons.
In New Zealand, 220v lighted switches are everywhere.
Typically lighted switches were lit through the load but about 15
years ago NFPA and the testing labs suddenly decided "off" was not
really off since there was still current flowing in the circuit and
these switches were delisted. Previously the acceptable current was
around a half an MA (500 microamps).
In the last couple of cycles the NEC requires a neutral be brought to
all switching locations, just for this reason.

Interesting, I didn't know they used to allow using the load for
the indicator light. I thought of that, I was
ready to say it could be done, but then thought about the obvious
problem, the load side is always energized through the indicator
light, even when the switch is off. Figured it wasn't really safe.

What's the danger?

The OP wrote:


I want a light switch with an indicator light. All I can find needs a
neutral. My switch only has hot wire. Any such switch that works with
only hot wire? This is 220 V. Thanks.

Why can't you homeowners people learn to quote the OP, at least enough
lines to understand the question. Even if you have to do it the hard
way by copying and pasting.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

That's a nice light but he'll still need a a ground, right?

OP, if you own this place and if the switch is on the first floor above
an unfinished basement, or on the to floor under an unfinished attic,
tmaybe you can run another wire, a ground wire. They sell 6 foot
flexible drill bits to help people do this.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 27 Nov 2017 13:42:41 -0500,
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:14:03 GMT, Iggy
om wrote:

replying to Oumati Asami, Iggy wrote:
There's no 220v switches, lighted or not, that I know of. Your best bet is to
use one of these indicator lights (
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Indicat.../dp/B00DUW2NSC )
in-line somewhere and mounted in a single-gang box with a cover plate that you
drilled for the indicator.

My bet is he is not in the US, expand your horizons.
In New Zealand, 220v lighted switches are everywhere.
Typically lighted switches were lit through the load but about 15
years ago NFPA and the testing labs suddenly decided "off" was not
really off since there was still current flowing in the circuit and
these switches were delisted. Previously the acceptable current was
around a half an MA (500 microamps).
In the last couple of cycles the NEC requires a neutral be brought to
all switching locations, just for this reason.

So maybe he could find a second-hand switch that would work.

replying to Dean Hoffman, Iggy wrote:
Does that matter? Their single pole or 1-ways AND 2-ways (as they call them)
separate the hots/live-wires (L1 & L2) and switch by way of the
common/neutral. Largely, their switches are nothing but Switched Junction
boxes.

Very odd, very unsafe and colors actually mean almost nothing and are changed
on a whim to suit whatever, especially the old colors that were used. Most
every example I've seen has the neutral the same exact color as the hot
wires...yippy, all reds or all browns or all blacks in EVERY hole! Good thing
they changed colors, I guess.

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