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#1
Posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
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jack pad slot height
On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:
What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot? I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were stupid enough to put the jack there. But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside. What good is that? I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away, like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end. |
#2
Posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
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jack pad slot height
In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
wrote: On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote: What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot? I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were stupid enough to put the jack there. But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside. What good is that? I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away, like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end. That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference. If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch too deep. The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now, never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day. |
#3
Posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
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jack pad slot height
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 00:26:32 -0400, micky
wrote: In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F wrote: On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote: What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot? I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were stupid enough to put the jack there. But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside. What good is that? I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away, like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end. That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference. If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch too deep. The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now, never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day. The notch in the jack is to prevent the jack from sliding out fromm under the car, or the re-enforced portion of the pinch weld from slipping off the jack. The notch is never deep enough to let the flat surface of the rocker panel contact the jack, as the sheet metal of the rocker panel is not anywhere near strong enough to support the vehicle on the jack |
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