jack pad slot height
 

On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:

What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?


I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
stupid enough to put the jack there.

But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.

What good is that?


I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.

jack pad slot height
 

In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
wrote:

On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:

What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?


I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
stupid enough to put the jack there.

But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.

What good is that?


I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.

That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to
position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be
sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference.

If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch
too deep.

The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure
how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now,
never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day.

jack pad slot height
 

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 00:26:32 -0400, micky
wrote:

In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
wrote:

On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:

What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?


I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
stupid enough to put the jack there.

But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.

What good is that?


I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.

That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to
position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be
sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference.

If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch
too deep.

The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure
how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now,
never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day.
The notch in the jack is to prevent the jack from sliding out fromm
under the car, or the re-enforced portion of the pinch weld from
slipping off the jack. The notch is never deep enough to let the flat
surface of the rocker panel contact the jack, as the sheet metal of
the rocker panel is not anywhere near strong enough to support the
vehicle on the jack