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#1
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove.
Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.usenet.kooks,alt.war.vietnam,alt.support.depression
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electricalsystems.
On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote:
I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? |
#3
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electricalsystems.
On 19/03/17 05:31, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? Do you store food in a range? He calls it a stove later. Steel has to be cadmium-plated if it comes into contact with aluminum, but I haven't heard of a mix of aluminum and copper. The problem is that the two metals set up a miniature electric cell. The Web says yes, you will have a problem: http://www.finishing.com/78/97.shtml The result looks pretty dreadful. A liquid must be present to be an electrolyte. I wouldn't expect condensation in your situation, but I am a Ham, not an electrician, on the other side of the world. A stove has a heavy current drain. Copper is more conductive than aluminum, and may make a difference. The terminal bar in the breaker box may be brass, an alloy. The screw could get pretty hot, but to cause a fire, there must be something flammable nearby. What do your local wiring regulations require? A man with solar panels wanted to tap the 12 volt feed for low-voltage use in his house. He was told it was against the regulations. He thought he would be O.K. What they didn't tell him was that non-regulation wiring could void his homeowners' insurance. You need to check that out as well. HTH, Doug. |
#4
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Sunday, March 19, 2017 at 11:03:06 AM UTC-4, Doug Laidlaw wrote:
On 19/03/17 05:31, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote: On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? Do you store food in a range? He calls it a stove later. Steel has to be cadmium-plated if it comes into contact with aluminum, but I haven't heard of a mix of aluminum and copper. The problem is that the two metals set up a miniature electric cell. The Web says yes, you will have a problem: http://www.finishing.com/78/97.shtml What an awesome, credible reference on wiring practices, electrical safety and code issues. The result looks pretty dreadful. A liquid must be present to be an electrolyte. I wouldn't expect condensation in your situation, but I am a Ham, not an electrician, on the other side of the world. A stove has a heavy current drain. Copper is more conductive than aluminum, and may make a difference. The terminal bar in the breaker box may be brass, an alloy. The screw could get pretty hot, but to cause a fire, there must be something flammable nearby. What do your local wiring regulations require? A man with solar panels wanted to tap the 12 volt feed for low-voltage use in his house. He was told it was against the regulations. Which of course has nothing to do with the question asked. He thought he would be O.K. What they didn't tell him was that non-regulation wiring could void his homeowners' insurance. You need to check that out as well. HTH, Doug. Please cite some actual cases where a homeowner's non-regulation wiring voided his homeowner's insurance. This claim has been made here many times, I have yet to see any actual example of it occurring. |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.support.depression
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electricalsystems.
On 3/19/2017 8:03 AM, Doug Laidlaw wrote:
On 19/03/17 05:31, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote: On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? Do you store food in a range? He calls it a stove later. Steel has to be cadmium-plated if it comes into contact with aluminum, but I haven't heard of a mix of aluminum and copper. The problem is that the two metals set up a miniature electric cell. The Web says yes, you will have a problem: http://www.finishing.com/78/97.shtml The result looks pretty dreadful. A liquid must be present to be an electrolyte. I wouldn't expect condensation in your situation, but I am a Ham, not an electrician, on the other side of the world. A stove has a heavy current drain. Copper is more conductive than aluminum, and may make a difference. The terminal bar in the breaker box may be brass, an alloy. The screw could get pretty hot, but to cause a fire, there must be something flammable nearby. What do your local wiring regulations require? A man with solar panels wanted to tap the 12 volt feed for low-voltage use in his house. He was told it was against the regulations. He thought he would be O.K. What they didn't tell him was that non-regulation wiring could void his homeowners' insurance. You need to check that out as well. HTH, Doug. Well, something with this message has run afoul, as far back as the part where someone's storing food in the range. Personally, I don't store stuff in my range. And another item... that pull-out drawer just beneath the main oven compartment says "Not For Storage"; so I would assume you wouldn't store stuff like combustibles there either. Conclusion: it seems better to store food in the refer, not the range. Thank you and have a Pleasance day. |
#6
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Sun, 19 Mar 2017 09:06:15 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke"
wrote: And another item... that pull-out drawer just beneath the main oven compartment says "Not For Storage"; so I would assume you wouldn't store stuff like combustibles there either. The "drawer" under a range is a nod to the code rule that allows the cord and plug "disconnect" to be behind a "drawer". |
#7
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
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#8
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.support.depression
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote in message ... On 3/19/2017 8:03 AM, Doug Laidlaw wrote: On 19/03/17 05:31, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote: On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? Do you store food in a range? He calls it a stove later. Steel has to be cadmium-plated if it comes into contact with aluminum, but I haven't heard of a mix of aluminum and copper. The problem is that the two metals set up a miniature electric cell. The Web says yes, you will have a problem: http://www.finishing.com/78/97.shtml The result looks pretty dreadful. A liquid must be present to be an electrolyte. I wouldn't expect condensation in your situation, but I am a Ham, not an electrician, on the other side of the world. A stove has a heavy current drain. Copper is more conductive than aluminum, and may make a difference. The terminal bar in the breaker box may be brass, an alloy. The screw could get pretty hot, but to cause a fire, there must be something flammable nearby. What do your local wiring regulations require? A man with solar panels wanted to tap the 12 volt feed for low-voltage use in his house. He was told it was against the regulations. He thought he would be O.K. What they didn't tell him was that non-regulation wiring could void his homeowners' insurance. You need to check that out as well. HTH, Doug. Well, something with this message has run afoul, as far back as the part where someone's storing food in the range. Personally, I don't store stuff in my range. And another item... that pull-out drawer just beneath the main oven compartment says "Not For Storage"; so I would assume you wouldn't store stuff like combustibles there either. Conclusion: it seems better to store food in the refer, not the range. Thank you and have a Pleasance day. you wouldn't store flashlight batteries would you |
#9
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 02:03:00 +1100, Doug Laidlaw
wrote: On 19/03/17 05:31, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote: On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? Do you store food in a range? He calls it a stove later. Steel has to be cadmium-plated if it comes into contact with aluminum, but I haven't heard of a mix of aluminum and copper. The problem is that the two metals set up a miniature electric cell. The Web says yes, you will have a problem: CU/AL lugs actually perform better with aluminum wire than they do with copper wire. The only problem that aluminum wire had was when used with steel binding screws in 15 and 20 amp side wired devices. The CO/AL-r device fixed that but the reputation was destroyed and 12 and 10 ga aluminum wire pretty much disappeared. The other issue was the 1350 alloy, designed for overhead drops that became very brittle. The AA-8*** alloys are far more forgiving of bending and would not be a problem. Larger aluminum conductors that go in lugs, not binder screws, has never been a problem and is the industry standard in lots of 30a and up wiring. BTW the "goo" makes people feel better but it has not been demonstrated that it really does much. I know of no terminal manufacturer that "requires" it in the instructions although some do "recommend" it. (meaningless in the code sense). |
#10
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
its a wire tube
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#11
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.usenet.kooks,alt.war.vietnam,alt.support.depression
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote in message ... On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? this is so me |
#12
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electricalsystems.
On 03/19/2017 10:21 PM, David wrote:
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote in message ... On 3/18/2017 11:28 AM, Tina wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? Are "free-standing" ranges healthier for food storage, more so than regular ranges? this is so me Would you be willing to pay more for a freestanding range if she was humanely raised? |
#13
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If the terminals on the circuit breaker and the stove are rated for aluminum wire you should be okay as long as all connections are tight. Loose connections cause arcing which generates heat and sparks. The circuit breaker should have a label on it with CUAL or ALCU or something similar. The stove wiring diagram or a label at the power connection should indicate the same thing. If the stove is not rated for aluminum wire, you can install a surface mount range receptacle on the wire, and mount it on the wall very low. Then connect a range cord to the stove and plug that into the range receptacle. Make sure that the range receptacle is rated for aluminum wire (They usually are). Range receptacles and cords come in 3 wire and 4 wire versions. Four wire is preferred, but if you only have a three wire cable coming out of the wall, go with a 3 wire range receptacle and cord. The circuit breaker can be replaced with one rated for copper and aluminum. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV |
#14
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 12:32:47 -0700 (PDT), John G
wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If the terminals on the circuit breaker and the stove are rated for aluminum wire you should be okay as long as all connections are tight. Loose connections cause arcing which generates heat and sparks. The circuit breaker should have a label on it with CUAL or ALCU or something similar. The stove wiring diagram or a label at the power connection should indicate the same thing. If the stove is not rated for aluminum wire, you can install a surface mount range receptacle on the wire, and mount it on the wall very low. Then connect a range cord to the stove and plug that into the range receptacle. Make sure that the range receptacle is rated for aluminum wire (They usually are). Range receptacles and cords come in 3 wire and 4 wire versions. Four wire is preferred, but if you only have a three wire cable coming out of the wall, go with a 3 wire range receptacle and cord. The circuit breaker can be replaced with one rated for copper and aluminum. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV The range WILL already have an outlet for the stove to plug into. AFAIK Aluminum wiring was NEVER used "direct connected" to a stove - at least not within code. |
#15
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If the terminals on the circuit breaker and the stove are rated for aluminum wire you should be okay as long as all connections are tight. Loose connections cause arcing which generates heat and sparks. The circuit breaker should have a label on it with CUAL or ALCU or something similar. The stove wiring diagram or a label at the power connection should indicate the same thing. If the stove is not rated for aluminum wire, you can install a surface mount range receptacle on the wire, and mount it on the wall very low. Then connect a range cord to the stove and plug that into the range receptacle. Make sure that the range receptacle is rated for aluminum wire (They usually are). Range receptacles and cords come in 3 wire and 4 wire versions. Four wire is preferred, but if you only have a three wire cable coming out of the wall, go with a 3 wire range receptacle and cord. The circuit breaker can be replaced with one rated for copper and aluminum. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV The range WILL already have an outlet for the stove to plug into. AFAIK Aluminum wiring was NEVER used "direct connected" to a stove - at least not within code. There are several hundred condos and townhomes in my area built in the 1980's. All of the ranges were hardwired with either #6 or #8 aluminum service entrance cable. Some with 3 wire and some with 4 wire. I get a few calls a year to change them to plug and receptacle when the range gets replaced. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV |
#16
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
"John G" wrote in message
There are several hundred condos and townhomes in my area built in the 1980's. All of the ranges were hardwired with either #6 or #8 aluminum service entrance cable. Some with 3 wire and some with 4 wire. I get a few calls a year to change them to plug and receptacle when the range gets replaced. I am sure they're not the only ones, either. Whether the installation was codeworthy requires access to 40 year old codes but it's moot since you've actually seen and serviced such installations. The dangers of AL wiring took a while to expose and many of them related to faulty installation techniques. Still, others took a while to ferret out. IIRC, there's old and new tech AL wire that reduced the problem of AL wiring loosening under the steel screws in device connections because of the different coefficients of expansion. Would I rip out AL branch wiring if I found it in my house? Maybe. But if I didn't I'd certify and inspect each and every connection and still wouldn't feel comfortable. I'd still worry that the AL wiring had more failure points than copper. -- Bobby G. |
#17
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 4:55:38 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 12:32:47 -0700 (PDT), John G wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If the terminals on the circuit breaker and the stove are rated for aluminum wire you should be okay as long as all connections are tight. Loose connections cause arcing which generates heat and sparks. The circuit breaker should have a label on it with CUAL or ALCU or something similar. The stove wiring diagram or a label at the power connection should indicate the same thing. If the stove is not rated for aluminum wire, you can install a surface mount range receptacle on the wire, and mount it on the wall very low. Then connect a range cord to the stove and plug that into the range receptacle. Make sure that the range receptacle is rated for aluminum wire (They usually are). Range receptacles and cords come in 3 wire and 4 wire versions. Four wire is preferred, but if you only have a three wire cable coming out of the wall, go with a 3 wire range receptacle and cord. The circuit breaker can be replaced with one rated for copper and aluminum. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV The range WILL already have an outlet for the stove to plug into. AFAIK Aluminum wiring was NEVER used "direct connected" to a stove - at least not within code. John Many electric stoves were built, tested and listed by a recognized electrical testing laboratory, sold, and installed with connection blocks which were listed for both copper and aluminum conductors. The reason that the lugs are seldom used for connections of cables is the requirements for ease of servicing and cleaning in many residential codes which in turn dictate the use of cord and plug connections for kitchen ranges. In those areas where such residential codes are not adopted it is very common to see the cable connected directly to the range. With built in counter cook tops and ovens it is rare to see cord and plug connections used because of the increased cost of the additional parts and the additional labor that would be required for installation. As long as the connections are listed and or labeled for both Copper & Aluminum conductors there is no issue. One of the factors which led to a lot of direct connection of Aluminum conductors to ranges was an exception in prior editions of the National Electric Code (NEC) in the USA which permitted the range's non current carrying conductive parts; such as the frame and metal case; to be bonded to the neutral of the supply circuit in lieu of requiring a separate equipment grounding conductor provided that the circuit originated in the Service Equipment. Since the neutral would only carry a rather small current during normal operation it was thought that the voltage drop would be low enough to avoid any hazardous difference of potential between the range and adjacent grounded surfaces such as refrigerators, metal sinks, other electrical appliances, and so forth. This exception may have originated during world war two as a materials conservation measure. Experience with it showed that although problems were quite rare any high resistance connection or open in the neutral to the Ranges and Clothes Driers installed under this exception created an extremely dangerous condition. As a result the exception now applies only to extensions of the original circuits and the installation of replacement appliances. Thousands of these installations will be around for decades. -- Tom Horne |
#18
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 09:14:32 -0700 (PDT), Tom Horne
wrote: On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 4:55:38 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 12:32:47 -0700 (PDT), John G wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If the terminals on the circuit breaker and the stove are rated for aluminum wire you should be okay as long as all connections are tight. Loose connections cause arcing which generates heat and sparks. The circuit breaker should have a label on it with CUAL or ALCU or something similar. The stove wiring diagram or a label at the power connection should indicate the same thing. If the stove is not rated for aluminum wire, you can install a surface mount range receptacle on the wire, and mount it on the wall very low. Then connect a range cord to the stove and plug that into the range receptacle. Make sure that the range receptacle is rated for aluminum wire (They usually are). Range receptacles and cords come in 3 wire and 4 wire versions. Four wire is preferred, but if you only have a three wire cable coming out of the wall, go with a 3 wire range receptacle and cord. The circuit breaker can be replaced with one rated for copper and aluminum. John Grabowski https://www.MrElectrician.TV The range WILL already have an outlet for the stove to plug into. AFAIK Aluminum wiring was NEVER used "direct connected" to a stove - at least not within code. John Many electric stoves were built, tested and listed by a recognized electrical testing laboratory, sold, and installed with connection blocks which were listed for both copper and aluminum conductors. The reason that the lugs are seldom used for connections of cables is the requirements for ease of servicing and cleaning in many residential codes which in turn dictate the use of cord and plug connections for kitchen ranges. In those areas where such residential codes are not adopted it is very common to see the cable connected directly to the range. With built in counter cook tops and ovens it is rare to see cord and plug connections used because of the increased cost of the additional parts and the additional labor that would be required for installation. As long as the connections are listed and or labeled for both Copper & Aluminum conductors there is no issue. Built in and "stand alone" are totally different - a built-in doesn't get moved One of the factors which led to a lot of direct connection of Aluminum conductors to ranges was an exception in prior editions of the National Electric Code (NEC) in the USA which permitted the range's non current carrying conductive parts; such as the frame and metal case; to be bonded to the neutral of the supply circuit in lieu of requiring a separate equipment grounding conductor provided that the circuit originated in the Service Equipment. Since the neutral would only carry a rather small current during normal operation it was thought that the voltage drop would be low enough to avoid any hazardous difference of potential between the range and adjacent grounded surfaces such as refrigerators, metal sinks, other electrical appliances, and so forth. This exception may have originated during world war two as a materials conservation measure. Experience with it showed that although problems were quite rare any high resistance connection or open in the neutral to the Ranges and Clothes Driers installed under this exception created an extremely dangerous condition. As a result the exception now applies only to extensions of the original circuits and the installation of replacement appliances. Thousands of these installations will be around for decades. Here in Ontario "range plugs" and "drier plugs" have been required for at least 45 years.It is in my 1969 copy of the ontario electrical code in the 1969 ontario supplement section 26 subsection 106.This became a CODE REQUIREMENT in 1969 in Ontario. I am not sure if it became a code requirement Canada wide at that time or not. ( I remember quite a few details frim that time period as I worked with/for my Dad who was an electrician in Ontario during those years, before starting my apprenticeship as an auto mechanic)- and I have both 1966 and 1969 code books, all these years later - - - This is about the same time aluminum wiring became popular and problems with aa-1350 wire started to surface. Requiring a plug-in "cord connected" installation reduced problems caused by flexing 1350 aluminaum conductors. |
#19
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
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#20
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 14:28:40 -0400, Tina
wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) If they have been there for 40 years without a problem DON'T TOUCH THEM. My house , built in 1974, has all aluminum wiring and I'm not worried. The screws are not copper anyway - sometimes they are brass, but more often plated steel. I switched all my devices to co-ALR devices last year - except for the Range and the Drier |
#21
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
wrote in message
stuff snipped If they have been there for 40 years without a problem DON'T TOUCH THEM. I'd still inspect them, especially in an older home. One of the hot feeders from the meter had corroded after about 40 years. Thermal contraction and expansion, mechanical vibration and condensation all take their toll. Not sure what caused the initial probem - circuit box mounted on inside cinderblock wall of unheated basement area so I suspect condensation. Once an AL connection starts arcing the process proceeds much more quickly than it does with CU wire, AFAIK. But K sometimes means "knew" and not "know." (-: Is/was your installation pure AL or copper-clad? -- Bobby G. |
#22
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 05:55:57 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: wrote in message stuff snipped If they have been there for 40 years without a problem DON'T TOUCH THEM. I'd still inspect them, especially in an older home. One of the hot feeders from the meter had corroded after about 40 years. Thermal contraction and expansion, mechanical vibration and condensation all take their toll. Not sure what caused the initial probem - circuit box mounted on inside cinderblock wall of unheated basement area so I suspect condensation. Once an AL connection starts arcing the process proceeds much more quickly than it does with CU wire, AFAIK. But K sometimes means "knew" and not "know." (-: Is/was your installation pure AL or copper-clad? All second generation solid aluminum. |
#23
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electricalsystems.
On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 19:53:32 -0000, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Mar 2017 05:55:57 -0400, "Robert Green" wrote: wrote in message stuff snipped If they have been there for 40 years without a problem DON'T TOUCH THEM. I'd still inspect them, especially in an older home. One of the hot feeders from the meter had corroded after about 40 years. Thermal contraction and expansion, mechanical vibration and condensation all take their toll. Not sure what caused the initial probem - circuit box mounted on inside cinderblock wall of unheated basement area so I suspect condensation. Once an AL connection starts arcing the process proceeds much more quickly than it does with CU wire, AFAIK. But K sometimes means "knew" and not "know." (-: Is/was your installation pure AL or copper-clad? All second generation solid aluminum. If you used aluminium instead of aloominum it might work better :-) -- Peter is listening to Eric Clapton - Layla |
#24
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Does anyone know about aluminum wiring for the electrical systems.
On Sat, 18 Mar 2017 14:28:40 -0400, Tina
wrote: I have had aluminum wire feeding my free-standing range for over 25 years with no problems, but now I am concerned that it still could be a problem if it is connected to a copper screw at the breaker box or the outlet behind the stove. Could this cause a fire or should I have the wire replaced with copper wire? The wire has no visible markings of what size it is but I would guess #6 wire. The breaker box and stove outlet have been there since day one. I am not an electrician and could use an opinion. Thank you Tina (My concern came from some new reports on TV about home fires.) I'm not an electrician either Tina. My house is over 20 years old. It had aluminum wire for the HVAC condenser and a double oven. I had the electrician change the wires on the HVAC to copper, because is was an easy job. The oven is the only thing with aluminum wire now. I "think" he did an amp draw test on the aluminum with both ovens turned on high. He said things were good. I'm not worried. Many years ago there were fires in mobile homes, because they were moved and wires loosened up or such. It would be expensive for me to have copper run to the ovens. It ain't broke so I'm not paying. You have good advice here from folks that know wiring, electrical, etc. I'd say relax and not worry. -- '...we don't wanna bring our guns, but ready if it goes there -- Madison Rising |
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