We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?

On 2/26/2017 3:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


Go to:

https://www.totousa.com/products/toilets

then filter by 10" rough in

And FWIW, toto makes excellent plumbing products

On 2/26/2017 3:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


Go to:

https://www.totousa.com/products/toilets

then filter by 10" rough in

And FWIW, toto makes excellent plumbing products

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?

Can't give a price for the work. You might look into an off set toilet
flange, This guy moved his toilet ~ 1.5 inches. There may other
flanges the would give the rough in distance you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q42iLlSKWA

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?

Can't give a price for the work. You might look into an off set toilet
flange, This guy moved his toilet ~ 1.5 inches. There may other
flanges the would give the rough in distance you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q42iLlSKWA

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 15:10:57 -0500, John Loo wrote:

On 2/26/2017 3:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


Go to:

https://www.totousa.com/products/toilets

then filter by 10" rough in

And FWIW, toto makes excellent plumbing products


Kohler seems to have many 10 inch ...

http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/b...N-2569Z1z141i2

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 15:10:57 -0500, John Loo wrote:

On 2/26/2017 3:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


Go to:

https://www.totousa.com/products/toilets

then filter by 10" rough in

And FWIW, toto makes excellent plumbing products


Kohler seems to have many 10 inch ...

http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/b...N-2569Z1z141i2

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

On Sunday, February 26, 2017 at 3:49:43 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly.. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

I moved a shower drain in a slab about 4" inches. Cast iron pipes in the
corner of the basement where all the pipes come together before exiting the
house. Wyes and Tees and fittings, oh my!

I broke up the slab and exposed the pipes and then paid a plumber about
$50 to tell me how to move the drain. I got the information I needed and he
made a quick $50 on the way home from work.

As the saying goes. "You don't pay a plumber to bang on the pipes, you pay him
to know which pipes to bang."

I paid for the "knowing" and did the "banging" myself.

On 2/26/2017 3:49 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to
have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so
there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is
similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height
quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options
greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut
the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall?
Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

I've done it and replaced the flange with a 2" offset flange to move it
2" to the right. I did this to accommodate new cabinets. I did have to
rent an electric jack hammer. I thought I could just chisel it out, but
it was almost impossible. The electric jack hammer did it in a few
minutes.

On 2/26/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?

Tell that wife of yers that she's a major contributor to global warming.
And then tell her to shut her face.

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 8:00:35 AM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
On 2/26/2017 3:49 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to
have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so
there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is
similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height
quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options
greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut
the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall?
Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

I've done it and replaced the flange with a 2" offset flange to move it
2" to the right. I did this to accommodate new cabinets. I did have to
rent an electric jack hammer. I thought I could just chisel it out, but
it was almost impossible. The electric jack hammer did it in a few
minutes.

When I was trying to move my shower drain I mentioned to my neighbor that I was
having a really tough time breaking the slab with a chisel. He informed of his
philosophy: "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jack hammer from his work. An hour or
so later, I had a huge hole in my floor.

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 11:40:05 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 8:00:35 AM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
On 2/26/2017 3:49 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to
have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so
there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is
similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height
quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options
greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut
the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall?
Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

I've done it and replaced the flange with a 2" offset flange to move it
2" to the right. I did this to accommodate new cabinets. I did have to
rent an electric jack hammer. I thought I could just chisel it out, but
it was almost impossible. The electric jack hammer did it in a few
minutes.

When I was trying to move my shower drain I mentioned to my neighbor that I was
having a really tough time breaking the slab with a chisel. He informed of his
philosophy: "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jack hammer from his work. An hour or
so later, I had a huge hole in my floor.

That's one way of holding down the cost, ie doing some or all of it
yourself. If you have the slab opened up and the plumber just does
the plumbing, it's going to be less. Impossible to give numbers on
the cost. For example, does he have replacement tiles available?
If not, then what? As others have suggested, I'd look into a toilet
that fits, not making the drain fit the toilet.

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 12:52:23 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 11:40:05 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 8:00:35 AM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
On 2/26/2017 3:49 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:00:06 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to
have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so
there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is
similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height
quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options
greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut
the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall?
Or is this just completely impractical?


I had a shower drain moved as part of a bathroom renovation. Judging
from the work involved with that, I'd guess your change to be in the
$300 range. You can save a few bucks if you are willing to do some of
the work. Talk to the plumber and see how big of an opening he needs
and if yyou can do the breaking out and patching up. It is not high
skil, but more hard labor.

I've done it and replaced the flange with a 2" offset flange to move it
2" to the right. I did this to accommodate new cabinets. I did have to
rent an electric jack hammer. I thought I could just chisel it out, but
it was almost impossible. The electric jack hammer did it in a few
minutes.

When I was trying to move my shower drain I mentioned to my neighbor that I was
having a really tough time breaking the slab with a chisel. He informed of his
philosophy: "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jack hammer from his work. An hour or
so later, I had a huge hole in my floor.

That's one way of holding down the cost, ie doing some or all of it
yourself. If you have the slab opened up and the plumber just does
the plumbing, it's going to be less. Impossible to give numbers on
the cost. For example, does he have replacement tiles available?
If not, then what? As others have suggested, I'd look into a toilet
that fits, not making the drain fit the toilet.

In my case, it was a shower drain that was going under a fiberglass shower base. No
tiles to be concerned with.

The original drain was nothing more than a hole in the slab with a kitchen sink strainer
in the hole. No base for the shower stall, the slab just sloped into the drain. Ugly, but
functional for me. When it came time to remodel the main bathroom, I needed a decent
bathroom for everyone else to use, so I had to remodel the basement bathroom
first before demolishing the main one.

In the end, we all got new bathrooms. :-)

Bob Simon posted for all of us...



We have two 24 year old toilets that don't flush well so I plan to have them replaced. The powder room has a standard 12" rough in so there are lots of choices. My wife selected one whose style is similar to the sink with dual flush capability and comfort height quiet-close seat.

But the master bath only has 10" rough in which limits options greatly. What would it cost (ballpark estimate) to have someone cut the slab and relocate the drain two inches away from the back wall? Or is this just completely impractical?

Didn't do much research did you? Look for 10" rough in toilets. I also like
Toto but most manufacturers have good flushing water saving terlets now.

--
Tekkie

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...




When I was trying to move my shower drain I mentioned to my neighbor that I was
having a really tough time breaking the slab with a chisel. He informed of his
philosophy: "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jack hammer from his work. An hour or
so later, I had a huge hole in my floor.

No need for the terlet then aye?

--
Tekkie

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 3:43:28 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...




When I was trying to move my shower drain I mentioned to my neighbor that I was
having a really tough time breaking the slab with a chisel. He informed of his
philosophy: "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jack hammer from his work. An hour or
so later, I had a huge hole in my floor.

No need for the terlet then aye?

--
Tekkie

Peeing in the shower is OK. Pooping, not so much.

This is the OP. Thank you all for your responses.

Yesterday, a friend who recently remodeled his bathroom looked at my toilets. He said I was not measuring the rough in correctly. I estimated the location of the center of the drain flange from the shape of the raised areas on the side of the existing toilet base. He said no, just measure from the back wall to the center of the hold down bolts. When we did this, we came up with 11 3/8" for the one that I thought was 10". He said a 12" toilet fit fine without any extra parts for the waste drain. He also said to throw out the wax ring that comes with the new toilet and use a fat one, which will seal much better.

Was his advice on how to measure the rough in correct and do you agree with his statements on fit and the wax ring?

On Tue, 28 Feb 2017 07:18:20 -0800 (PST), Bob Simon
wrote:

This is the OP. Thank you all for your responses.

Yesterday, a friend who recently remodeled his bathroom looked at my toilets. He said I was not measuring the rough in correctly. I estimated the location of the center of the drain flange from the shape of the raised areas on the side of the existing toilet base. He said no, just measure from the back wall to the center of the hold down bolts. When we did this, we came up with 11 3/8" for the one that I thought was 10". He said a 12" toilet fit fine without any extra parts for the waste drain. He also said to throw out the wax ring that comes with the new toilet and use a fat one, which will seal much better.

Was his advice on how to measure the rough in correct and do you agree with his statements on fit and the wax ring?

Your friend is correct on measuring. The hold down bolts are right
about center of the drain. From the wall to the bolts is how I
measured mine last year for a new toilet. For a wax ring, you might
consider using a "waxless" ring. They can reused if needed.

Fernco is a good brand. There are other brands, though.

https://www.amazon.com/waxless-toilet-ring/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Awaxless%20toilet %20ring

If your drain has a shallow sweep -- they may not work. BTDT :-)

On Tuesday, February 28, 2017 at 10:18:23 AM UTC-5, Bob Simon wrote:
This is the OP. Thank you all for your responses.

Yesterday, a friend who recently remodeled his bathroom looked at my toilets. He said I was not measuring the rough in correctly. I estimated the location of the center of the drain flange from the shape of the raised areas on the side of the existing toilet base. He said no, just measure from the back wall to the center of the hold down bolts. When we did this, we came up with 11 3/8" for the one that I thought was 10". He said a 12" toilet fit fine without any extra parts for the waste drain. He also said to throw out the wax ring that comes with the new toilet and use a fat one, which will seal much better.

Was his advice on how to measure the rough in correct and do you agree with his statements on fit and the wax ring?

Oren already suggested a waxless ring, so I'll just echo his warning with a bit more
detail. I was not able to use a waxless ring because I could not compress it enough
to fully seat the toilet. The last thing you want to do is crank down on the bolts and crack
the toilet. They just need to be snug enough so the toilet doesn't rock or shift. If they
are getting snug and the toilet hasn't reach the floor yet, do not keep trying to compress
the waxless ring.

You can buy wax rings with a rubber flange that goes down into the drain. I like those because
they force the ring to be centered, ensuring a good seal. The double height rings may or may
not be needed. It's hard to tell from where we're sitting. Worst case is the wax seeps out or
spreads out, making cleanup the next time more of a pain.