If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?

What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?

Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

First, what amp is the breaker?

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.

Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

wrote:
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
First, what amp is the breaker?

20 amp breaker

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.
Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.
It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 6:28:24 PM UTC-5, Meanie wrote:
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

First, what amp is the breaker?

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.

An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80%
current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment
the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long
it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster
pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip
unless the breaker is already in a hot environment.





Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be
the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a
shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons.
Most new ones are under 100W continuous.

On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80%
current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment
the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long
it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster
pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip
unless the breaker is already in a hot environment.

There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at
the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of
the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due
to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25%
There is an example of a trip curve graph here.
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf



Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be
the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a
shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons.
Most new ones are under 100W continuous.

The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that
would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a
cabinet but not one sitting on the counter.

On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80%
current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment
the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long
it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster
pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip
unless the breaker is already in a hot environment.

There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at
the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of
the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due
to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25%
There is an example of a trip curve graph here.
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf



Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be
the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a
shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons.
Most new ones are under 100W continuous.

The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that
would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a
cabinet but not one sitting on the counter.

How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit
for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer.

On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 09:29:03 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80%
current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment
the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long
it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster
pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip
unless the breaker is already in a hot environment.

There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at
the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of
the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due
to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25%
There is an example of a trip curve graph here.
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf



Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be
the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a
shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons.
Most new ones are under 100W continuous.

The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that
would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a
cabinet but not one sitting on the counter.

How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit
for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer.

Since the electric dryer is 240v and most washers are 120v they will
be on different circuits anyway but if you are talking about a washer
and gas dryer (motor and igniter), they can both be on the laundry
circuit.

Some might argue that they are both "fixed in place": because they
both connect to something on the wall (water and drain for the washer,
exhaust for the dryer)
The code would be silent on one of those portable washers that roll up
to a sink, connect to the faucet and you drop the drain hose in the
sink. I haven't seen one in 60 years but my sister had one in an
apartment in the late 50s. The "dryer" was a rope on pulleys out the
window.

On Mon, 09 Jan 2017 16:01:56 -0000, trader_4 wrote:

On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 6:28:24 PM UTC-5, Meanie wrote:
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

First, what amp is the breaker?

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.

An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80%
current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment
the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long
it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster
pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip
unless the breaker is already in a hot environment.





Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be
the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a
shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons.
Most new ones are under 100W continuous.

In the UK, most houses have every single outlet in the house on one breaker. Another breaker does lights, another does the water heater, another does the shower, another does the cooker. But all appliances smaller than that, that you can move around, are on the same one. It's 30 amps at 240 volts.

--
"You might show me a little more respect" complained the coed as she and her date were driving back from "Lover's Lookout".
"Yeah?" asked the smirking boy, "Like by doing what?"
"Well, for starters, not flying my panty hose from your radio aerial."

Every outlet on one breaker? Either you all live in small shacks, or once again, you're full of ****. I have odds on the latter.

On 1/9/2017 8:19 PM, trader_4 wrote:
Every outlet on one breaker? Either you all live in small shacks, or once again, you're full of ****. I have odds on the latter.


+1

On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 17:19:19 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

Every outlet on one breaker? Either you all live in small shacks, or once again, you're full of ****. I have odds on the latter.

230v at 30a is quite a bit of power when you think about it. They also
do have smaller homes and use less power as a general rule.

On Tue, 10 Jan 2017 01:02:03 -0000, "James Wilkinson Sword"
wrote:


In the UK, most houses have every single outlet in the house on one breaker. Another breaker does lights, another does the water heater, another does the shower, another does the cooker. But all appliances smaller than that, that you can move around, are on the same one. It's 30 amps at 240 volts.

You use a ring circuit, totally different breed of cat. Aren't the
outlets also protected at 10a?

On Tue, 10 Jan 2017 04:00:00 -0000, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Jan 2017 01:02:03 -0000, "James Wilkinson Sword"
wrote:


In the UK, most houses have every single outlet in the house on one breaker. Another breaker does lights, another does the water heater, another does the shower, another does the cooker. But all appliances smaller than that, that you can move around, are on the same one. It's 30 amps at 240 volts.

You use a ring circuit, totally different breed of cat.

Being a ring doesn't make any difference to its use. It just means you use 15A wire in a loop instead of 30A in a straight line. Pointless if you ask me, and dangerous if the ring breaks, but it's to save wire or something.

Aren't the outlets also protected at 10a?

No, but the plug itself on each appliance has a fuse from 1A to 13A depending on the appliance.

--
A weekend wasted is not a wasted weekend.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 23:28:00 -0000, Meanie wrote:

On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

First, what amp is the breaker?

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.

Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Why on earth would a breaker trip at 80%? Breakers (and fuses) trip at 100% or greater load, depending on the length of the overload. You can always run for 100% forever.

--
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests?

On 1/9/2017 8:00 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 23:28:00 -0000, Meanie wrote:

On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

First, what amp is the breaker?

Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run
at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%,
therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp
breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they
were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker.

Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run
them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you
have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp
usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with
the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit.

It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as
stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave.

Why on earth would a breaker trip at 80%? Breakers (and fuses) trip at
100% or greater load, depending on the length of the overload. You can
always run for 100% forever.


Perhaps your British breakers do, not over here. It's a safety feature.

On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 22:01:27 -0500, Meanie wrote:

Why on earth would a breaker trip at 80%? Breakers (and fuses) trip at
100% or greater load, depending on the length of the overload. You can
always run for 100% forever.


Perhaps your British breakers do, not over here. It's a safety feature.

Simply not true. If you look at the trip curve the trip is typically
at 1.10% +/- 1.5%

On 1/9/2017 11:15 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 22:01:27 -0500, Meanie wrote:

Why on earth would a breaker trip at 80%? Breakers (and fuses) trip at
100% or greater load, depending on the length of the overload. You can
always run for 100% forever.


Perhaps your British breakers do, not over here. It's a safety feature.

Simply not true. If you look at the trip curve the trip is typically
at 1.10% +/- 1.5%



"As you add up the electrical loads, keep in mind that a wire rated at
15 amps can carry 15 amps all day long. However, 15-amp breakers and
fuses can only carry 12 amps—80 percent of their rating—on a continuous
basis. Continuous basis is considered to be a circuit loaded to capacity
for three hours or more. This 80 percent rule applies to all breakers
and fuses."


http://www.familyhandyman.com/electr...-work/view-all

01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.

What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!

Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

wrote:
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire?

01001100110 wrote :

wrote:
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the
breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire?

A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter.

On 1/8/2017 5:25 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
01001100110 wrote :

wrote:
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer,
blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the
breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in
the wire?

A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter.

Will be very interesting to see how the experts respond.

A clamp-on ammeter won't do much good. It's hard to get current
to flow if the wire is open. Even if you get current to flow,
you have to get it clamped around only one of the 3 wires in the Romex.

Starting assumptions, YMMV:
Romex didn't get completely cut severing all connections.
Breaker is good, you've tested that already, check.
I'm in the USA. If you're elsewhere, click next now.
A bad connection at one of the junctions is way more likely
than a severed wire. Pulling on the wire may make the connection
work again. That can have catastrophic consequences if you're hanging
onto the wire. Don't even trust the circuit breaker. Turn it off
and VERIFY that there's no voltage at its output.

Are you absolutely sure that you're checking the right breaker???
When it works, you can tell because a test light on that circuit
goes dark when you turn off the breaker. If a light won't work,
you may accidentally turn off the wrong breaker and have the wire
go live when you pull on it.

In order of increasing risk of electrocution...
1) Call an electrician

2) There are electric field sensors that sense the radiation from
the wire. I've had zero luck with them in locating wires in the wall.
The sense range is too great to be useful. In your case, you might
be able to use one if you turn off ALL the breakers that feed that
area except the one you're testing. Location within a few feet may
be adequate.
Field sensors are available stand alone and are built into other
items like stud finders and multimeters these days.

3) Use a cable tracer.
Mine's called an Ireland 5010. You plug the transmitter in the wall and
it sends a signal along the wire that you can trace with the receiver.
The transmitter is powered by the circuit. If all the sockets are dead,
you'd have to connect it at the breaker box with jumper wires. I wouldn't
recommend that.

4) Use a time domain reflectometer to actually measure the distance to
the break.
Mine's called a JTE ShortStop. Their website is dead.
You clip it onto the circuit and it tells you how far to the break.
There's also a probe that you can use to sense the location of the wire
in the wall. Manual claims that the input is protected to 250VAC.
I've found it very helpful tracing all kinds of wires/cables.
Bad news is that the original buyer paid $350 for it instead of the
$1 at a garage sale.

5) It's likely that you have a bad connection in the box closest
to the breaker box. You can do some things with an ohm-meter and long
test leads. This can be VERY DANGEROUS. Something as innocuous as
turning on the stove or clothes dryer can put voltage where you'd not
expect it to be. All depends on how your house is wired. Not all houses
are wired sensibly. ASSUME NOTHING.

RULE #1
NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET.
CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES
SENSE.
THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE.
THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE.
YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE.
PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH.

Are we having fun yet?

mike wrote:

RULE #1
NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET.
CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES
SENSE.
THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE.
THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE.
YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE.
PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH.

Are we having fun yet?


I thought the original post was intended as a joke...

mike laid this down on his screen :
On 1/8/2017 5:25 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
01001100110 wrote :

wrote:
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer,
blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the
breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in
the wire?

A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter.

Will be very interesting to see how the experts respond.

A clamp-on ammeter won't do much good.

True, but the actual question asked was about a meter going around the
wire to see if current *is* in the wire.

[...]

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:



wrote:
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
Of course not.
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
There's no limit--knock yerself out!
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Peel off the insulation to be sure.

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire?

A clamp-on ammeter will tell you if there is current - but you already
know there is no current. You need to know where the VOLTAGE is, and
there are "non contact voltage detectors" but they need to be VERY
close to the conductor in question. Most likely a problem in a
junction or outlet box. Trace the wire and check the wires in the box
with non-contact or with a normal voltmeter at the outlets.

I would very strongly recommend you get a qualified electrician or
knowlegeable handi-man friend to check this for you -

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:

So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.

Is the GFCI tripped

wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.
Is the GFCI tripped

I don't have CFGI.

I plan to put new plugs in when checking wiring, maybe I should put in a couple of CFGI plugs?

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 23:38:48 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:



wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it.
Is the GFCI tripped

I don't have CFGI.

I plan to put new plugs in when checking wiring, maybe I should put in a couple of CFGI plugs?

Do you have aluminum wire? If so you may be in over your head.
If it is copper ...
These kind of failures are usually right at the devices. First look to
be sure they conductors are attached to the side screws and not
stabbed in the back. You can usually see that with a flashlight
without taking anything apart. You might start by plugging in a low
current appliance like a radio (that you know is on and tuned to a
station tried somewhere else) to a bad receptacle. Then slightly
loosen the device of each receptacle mounting screws slightly, stick
in a big molded plug and wiggle them one at a time and see if you get
noise out of the radio. If it is a bad connection that is failing,
that may smoke it out.
Personally if you have back stabs I would just rewire them all tho.
They are not listed for 12 ga wire. When you find the bad connection,
I would expect to see it discolored.

On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

Lights should be separate from receptacles. I'd have the refrigerator
separate . Not sure of code on appliance plugs but generally there is
one or two used at the same time.

Ed wrote:
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Lights should be separate from receptacles. I'd have the refrigerator
separate . Not sure of code on appliance plugs but generally there is
one or two used at the same time.

The overhead light is on the same circuit.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:

If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?

What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?

Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

In a kitchen, there is a pretty well defined rule about circuits.
You have a minimum of two 20 amp "small appliance" circuits for those
cord and plug appliances. You are certainly allowed to have more. The
code is silent about what you plug in.
When it comes to fixed in place appliances like the disposal, they are
supposed to be on another circuit and if they use more than 50% of the
circuit rating, nothing else should be on that circuit. Typically you
still might see the disposal and dish washer on the same circuit and
it usually works fine.
The lights are not allowed to be on a small appliance circuit. The
fridge can be on a 20a small appliance circuit or on a 15a dedicated
refrigeration circuit with very few exceptions about what can be on
that circuit (stove igniter or a clock)
Typically the overhead light will be on a general lighting circuit
with other loads in the home.

Also breakers do not trip at 80%, it might actually be more like 150%
or more for short duration loads like the startup of the fridge or
blender. It should hold the rated load forever. Each manufacturer has
their own trip curves online.
The 80% comes in the recommended continuous load. That is already
built into the acceptable breaker for small conductors (#14 & #12) so
if you run a 20a on a 12ga wire, it is already taking into account the
80% safety factor. (12ga is actually rated at 25a)

On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:

If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?

What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?

Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate
circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker
by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in
effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip
a breaker)

The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or
so.

wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?

What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?

Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate
circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker
by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in
effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip
a breaker)
The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or
so.

Before the power went out in the kitchen, the refrigerator was groaning and moaning when compressor turned on or off. Now that refrigerator is running from electric cord from utility room, it runs a lot smoother when compressor starts or stops. I wonder if the power problems caused it to run rough?

01001100110 wrote:


wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer,
blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate
circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker
by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in
effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip
a breaker)
The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or
so.

Before the power went out in the kitchen, the refrigerator was
groaning and moaning when compressor turned on or off. Now that
refrigerator is running from electric cord from utility room, it runs
a lot smoother when compressor starts or stops. I wonder if the power
problems caused it to run rough?

What do you mean, "You wonder"? What would it take to convince you?

wrote:
01001100110 wrote:


wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer,
blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate
circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker
by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in
effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip
a breaker)
The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or
so.

Before the power went out in the kitchen, the refrigerator was
groaning and moaning when compressor turned on or off. Now that
refrigerator is running from electric cord from utility room, it runs
a lot smoother when compressor starts or stops. I wonder if the power
problems caused it to run rough?
What do you mean, "You wonder"? What would it take to convince you?

Bill you're about as helpful as hemorrhoids.

01001100110 wrote:


wrote:
01001100110 wrote:


wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer,
blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the
kitchen.
By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on
separate
circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker
by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in
effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip
a breaker)
The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or
so.

Before the power went out in the kitchen, the refrigerator was
groaning and moaning when compressor turned on or off. Now that
refrigerator is running from electric cord from utility room, it runs
a lot smoother when compressor starts or stops. I wonder if the
power problems caused it to run rough?
What do you mean, "You wonder"? What would it take to convince you?

Bill you're about as helpful as hemorrhoids.

Sorry, but, if you are not a troll, I can tell from your post that you
are in over your head. Someone who doesn't know an amp from a volt
shouldn't be in charge of your situation. Get a professional to come in
and fix things for you--you certainly are not going to remedy the
situation yourself, even with Internet help. You're more likely to end
up hurting yourself or your property--perhaps permanently.

On 01/08/2017 06:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.


Are you using 14ga wire on a 30 amp breaker?

If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on
the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.

Maybe the wire got old and just ran out of electrons!

wrote:
On 01/08/2017 06:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Are you using 14ga wire on a 30 amp breaker?

12 gauge wire on 20 amp breaker.

On 01/08/2017 05:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.



Three minimum


one for lighting

one for refrigerator (and not a GFC)

one for all the rest.


I recently rewired my kitchen to put every single appliance on it's own
circuit. (Plus a few spares)

For me it was an easy job as my 200 amp panel had plenty of spare slots
and it is directly beneath the kitchen

wrote:
On 01/08/2017 05:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender,
are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker?
Should the overhead light be on a different breaker?

There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen.
Three minimum
one for lighting
one for refrigerator (and not a GFC)
one for all the rest.
I recently rewired my kitchen to put every single appliance on it's own
circuit. (Plus a few spares)
For me it was an easy job as my 200 amp panel had plenty of spare slots
and it is directly beneath the kitchen

I guess it's a good thing I bought the new breaker box with 20 slots. I'll take your advice and put them on separate breakers.