|
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much?
What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. First, what amp is the breaker? Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%, therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker. Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Lights should be separate from receptacles. I'd have the refrigerator separate . Not sure of code on appliance plugs but generally there is one or two used at the same time. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. In a kitchen, there is a pretty well defined rule about circuits. You have a minimum of two 20 amp "small appliance" circuits for those cord and plug appliances. You are certainly allowed to have more. The code is silent about what you plug in. When it comes to fixed in place appliances like the disposal, they are supposed to be on another circuit and if they use more than 50% of the circuit rating, nothing else should be on that circuit. Typically you still might see the disposal and dish washer on the same circuit and it usually works fine. The lights are not allowed to be on a small appliance circuit. The fridge can be on a 20a small appliance circuit or on a 15a dedicated refrigeration circuit with very few exceptions about what can be on that circuit (stove igniter or a clock) Typically the overhead light will be on a general lighting circuit with other loads in the home. Also breakers do not trip at 80%, it might actually be more like 150% or more for short duration loads like the startup of the fridge or blender. It should hold the rated load forever. Each manufacturer has their own trip curves online. The 80% comes in the recommended continuous load. That is already built into the acceptable breaker for small conductors (#14 & #12) so if you run a 20a on a 12ga wire, it is already taking into account the 80% safety factor. (12ga is actually rated at 25a) |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
wrote: On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. First, what amp is the breaker? 20 amp breaker Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%, therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker. Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
wrote: 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire? |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
01001100110 wrote :
wrote: 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire? A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip a breaker) The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or so. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On 1/8/2017 5:25 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
01001100110 wrote : wrote: 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire? A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter. Will be very interesting to see how the experts respond. A clamp-on ammeter won't do much good. It's hard to get current to flow if the wire is open. Even if you get current to flow, you have to get it clamped around only one of the 3 wires in the Romex. Starting assumptions, YMMV: Romex didn't get completely cut severing all connections. Breaker is good, you've tested that already, check. I'm in the USA. If you're elsewhere, click next now. A bad connection at one of the junctions is way more likely than a severed wire. Pulling on the wire may make the connection work again. That can have catastrophic consequences if you're hanging onto the wire. Don't even trust the circuit breaker. Turn it off and VERIFY that there's no voltage at its output. Are you absolutely sure that you're checking the right breaker??? When it works, you can tell because a test light on that circuit goes dark when you turn off the breaker. If a light won't work, you may accidentally turn off the wrong breaker and have the wire go live when you pull on it. In order of increasing risk of electrocution... 1) Call an electrician 2) There are electric field sensors that sense the radiation from the wire. I've had zero luck with them in locating wires in the wall. The sense range is too great to be useful. In your case, you might be able to use one if you turn off ALL the breakers that feed that area except the one you're testing. Location within a few feet may be adequate. Field sensors are available stand alone and are built into other items like stud finders and multimeters these days. 3) Use a cable tracer. Mine's called an Ireland 5010. You plug the transmitter in the wall and it sends a signal along the wire that you can trace with the receiver. The transmitter is powered by the circuit. If all the sockets are dead, you'd have to connect it at the breaker box with jumper wires. I wouldn't recommend that. 4) Use a time domain reflectometer to actually measure the distance to the break. Mine's called a JTE ShortStop. Their website is dead. You clip it onto the circuit and it tells you how far to the break. There's also a probe that you can use to sense the location of the wire in the wall. Manual claims that the input is protected to 250VAC. I've found it very helpful tracing all kinds of wires/cables. Bad news is that the original buyer paid $350 for it instead of the $1 at a garage sale. 5) It's likely that you have a bad connection in the box closest to the breaker box. You can do some things with an ohm-meter and long test leads. This can be VERY DANGEROUS. Something as innocuous as turning on the stove or clothes dryer can put voltage where you'd not expect it to be. All depends on how your house is wired. Not all houses are wired sensibly. ASSUME NOTHING. RULE #1 NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET. CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES SENSE. THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE. THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE. YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE. PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH. Are we having fun yet? |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote: wrote: 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire? A clamp-on ammeter will tell you if there is current - but you already know there is no current. You need to know where the VOLTAGE is, and there are "non contact voltage detectors" but they need to be VERY close to the conductor in question. Most likely a problem in a junction or outlet box. Trace the wire and check the wires in the box with non-contact or with a normal voltmeter at the outlets. I would very strongly recommend you get a qualified electrician or knowlegeable handi-man friend to check this for you - |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote: So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. Is the GFCI tripped |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
mike wrote:
RULE #1 NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET. CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES SENSE. THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE. THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE. YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE. PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH. Are we having fun yet? I thought the original post was intended as a joke... |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
mike laid this down on his screen :
On 1/8/2017 5:25 PM, FromTheRafters wrote: 01001100110 wrote : wrote: 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? Of course not. What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? There's no limit--knock yerself out! Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Peel off the insulation to be sure. So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. What kind of voltage meter goes around wire to see if current is in the wire? A clamp-on ammeter. Not a voltage meter. Will be very interesting to see how the experts respond. A clamp-on ammeter won't do much good. True, but the actual question asked was about a meter going around the wire to see if current *is* in the wire. [...] |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
|
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
|
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
|
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 23:38:48 -0600, "01001100110"
wrote: wrote: On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110" wrote: So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. Is the GFCI tripped I don't have CFGI. I plan to put new plugs in when checking wiring, maybe I should put in a couple of CFGI plugs? Do you have aluminum wire? If so you may be in over your head. If it is copper ... These kind of failures are usually right at the devices. First look to be sure they conductors are attached to the side screws and not stabbed in the back. You can usually see that with a flashlight without taking anything apart. You might start by plugging in a low current appliance like a radio (that you know is on and tuned to a station tried somewhere else) to a bad receptacle. Then slightly loosen the device of each receptacle mounting screws slightly, stick in a big molded plug and wiggle them one at a time and see if you get noise out of the radio. If it is a bad connection that is failing, that may smoke it out. Personally if you have back stabs I would just rewire them all tho. They are not listed for 12 ga wire. When you find the bad connection, I would expect to see it discolored. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
Bill was thinking very hard :
mike wrote: RULE #1 NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET. CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES SENSE. THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE. THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE. YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE. PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH. Are we having fun yet? I thought the original post was intended as a joke... I believe mike hit the nail on the head with option #1. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
FromTheRafters wrote:
Bill was thinking very hard : mike wrote: RULE #1 NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET. CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES SENSE. THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE. THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE. YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE. PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH. Are we having fun yet? I thought the original post was intended as a joke... I believe mike hit the nail on the head with option #1. I won't argue with that advice, but go read the original post again. I expended several minutes waffling as to whether it was legitimate or not. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On 01/08/2017 06:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Are you using 14ga wire on a 30 amp breaker? |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Maybe the wire got old and just ran out of electrons! |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 1:00:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 23:38:48 -0600, "01001100110" wrote: wrote: On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 19:04:02 -0600, "01001100110" wrote: So far the break doesn't seem to be at the breaker box. Its not in the breaker itself. I will have to get into the attic to find it. Is the GFCI tripped I don't have CFGI. I plan to put new plugs in when checking wiring, maybe I should put in a couple of CFGI plugs? Do you have aluminum wire? If so you may be in over your head. If it is copper ... These kind of failures are usually right at the devices. First look to be sure they conductors are attached to the side screws and not stabbed in the back. You can usually see that with a flashlight without taking anything apart. You might start by plugging in a low current appliance like a radio (that you know is on and tuned to a station tried somewhere else) to a bad receptacle. Then slightly loosen the device of each receptacle mounting screws slightly, stick in a big molded plug and wiggle them one at a time and see if you get noise out of the radio. If it is a bad connection that is failing, that may smoke it out. Personally if you have back stabs I would just rewire them all tho. They are not listed for 12 ga wire. When you find the bad connection, I would expect to see it discolored. For the OP: Just to be 100% clear, backstabbed wires will go into holes in the back of the receptacle. The screws are not even involved. Newer clamping style receptacles may have wires that are not wrapped around the screws, but instead inserted into the clamps that are tightened by the screws. Since the wires do indeed come in from the back, and are essentially "stabbed" into the clamps, the uninitiated might be confused. This is a backstabbed receptacle: http://img2.timeinc.net/toh/i/a/tool...roblems-08.jpg This is newer clamp style receptacle. Note the "stabbing" (sort of) but also note the location of the wires vs. the traditional backstabbed receptacle. http://inspectapedia.com/electric/El...A_126_DJFs.jpg |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
Bill explained on 1/9/2017 :
FromTheRafters wrote: Bill was thinking very hard : mike wrote: RULE #1 NEVER, EVER TAKE ADVICE FROM SOME RANDOM DUDE YOU MET ON THE INTERNET. CAREFULLY THINK ABOUT THE IDEA AND DETERMINE YOURSELF WHETHER IT MAKES SENSE. THERE ARE A LOT OF STUPID PEOPLE HERE. THERE ARE MALICIOUS PEOPLE HERE. YES, THERE ARE COMPETENT ELECTRICIANS HERE. PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CAN'T TELL WHICH IS WHICH. Are we having fun yet? I thought the original post was intended as a joke... I believe mike hit the nail on the head with option #1. I won't argue with that advice, but go read the original post again. I expended several minutes waffling as to whether it was legitimate or not. Yes. There is at least one nymshifting poster here who asks inane questions and then adds more questions as the thread progresses. IOW, another troll. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On 01/08/2017 05:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote:
If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Three minimum one for lighting one for refrigerator (and not a GFC) one for all the rest. I recently rewired my kitchen to put every single appliance on it's own circuit. (Plus a few spares) For me it was an easy job as my 200 amp panel had plenty of spare slots and it is directly beneath the kitchen |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 6:28:24 PM UTC-5, Meanie wrote:
On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. First, what amp is the breaker? Second, let's assume it's a 20 amp circuit. An average toaster can run at 5 amps and microwave can run at 15 amp. A breaker will trip at 80%, therefore, if you run them at the same time, you'll trip a 20 amp breaker. That's just two appliances, just think what will happen if they were all on that circuit and worse if it's a 15 amp breaker. An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
|
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
Ed wrote: On 1/8/2017 6:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Lights should be separate from receptacles. I'd have the refrigerator separate . Not sure of code on appliance plugs but generally there is one or two used at the same time. The overhead light is on the same circuit. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
wrote: On 01/08/2017 06:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Are you using 14ga wire on a 30 amp breaker? 12 gauge wire on 20 amp breaker. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
wrote: On 01/08/2017 05:04 PM, 01001100110 wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Three minimum one for lighting one for refrigerator (and not a GFC) one for all the rest. I recently rewired my kitchen to put every single appliance on it's own circuit. (Plus a few spares) For me it was an easy job as my 200 amp panel had plenty of spare slots and it is directly beneath the kitchen I guess it's a good thing I bought the new breaker box with 20 slots. I'll take your advice and put them on separate breakers. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote: An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25% There is an example of a trip curve graph here. http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a cabinet but not one sitting on the counter. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25% There is an example of a trip curve graph here. http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a cabinet but not one sitting on the counter. How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
01001100110 wrote:
wrote: 01001100110 wrote: wrote: On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600, "01001100110" wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. By current code refrigerator and microwave should each be on separate circuits.Kitchen receptacles should be 20 amp, one outlet per breaker by current code, and 15 amp splits on previous code (which is in effect a 30 amp outlet as you can plug in 2 12 amp loads and not trip a breaker) The light should be on a lighting circuit along with another room or so. Before the power went out in the kitchen, the refrigerator was groaning and moaning when compressor turned on or off. Now that refrigerator is running from electric cord from utility room, it runs a lot smoother when compressor starts or stops. I wonder if the power problems caused it to run rough? What do you mean, "You wonder"? What would it take to convince you? Bill you're about as helpful as hemorrhoids. Sorry, but, if you are not a troll, I can tell from your post that you are in over your head. Someone who doesn't know an amp from a volt shouldn't be in charge of your situation. Get a professional to come in and fix things for you--you certainly are not going to remedy the situation yourself, even with Internet help. You're more likely to end up hurting yourself or your property--perhaps permanently. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:04:12 -0600
"01001100110" wrote: If a refrigerator, microwave, large toaster oven, deep fryer, blender, are on the same breaker, would that be too much? What should be the maximum number of wall plugs on one breaker? Should the overhead light be on a different breaker? There's a break in a wire that's knocked out all power in the kitchen. Did the breaker Pop? No, then press on. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 09:29:03 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote: On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25% There is an example of a trip curve graph here. http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a cabinet but not one sitting on the counter. How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer. Since the electric dryer is 240v and most washers are 120v they will be on different circuits anyway but if you are talking about a washer and gas dryer (motor and igniter), they can both be on the laundry circuit. Some might argue that they are both "fixed in place": because they both connect to something on the wall (water and drain for the washer, exhaust for the dryer) The code would be silent on one of those portable washers that roll up to a sink, connect to the faucet and you drop the drain hose in the sink. I haven't seen one in 60 years but my sister had one in an apartment in the late 50s. The "dryer" was a rope on pulleys out the window. |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 3:43:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 09:29:03 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25% There is an example of a trip curve graph here. http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a cabinet but not one sitting on the counter. How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer. Since the electric dryer is 240v and most washers are 120v they will be on different circuits anyway but if you are talking about a washer and gas dryer (motor and igniter), they can both be on the laundry circuit. Some might argue that they are both "fixed in place": because they both connect to something on the wall (water and drain for the washer, exhaust for the dryer) The code would be silent on one of those portable washers that roll up to a sink, connect to the faucet and you drop the drain hose in the sink. I haven't seen one in 60 years but my sister had one in an apartment in the late 50s. The "dryer" was a rope on pulleys out the window. What does the code say about the gauge of the rope that must be used for the dryer? ;-) |
How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 3:43:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 09:29:03 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 12:17:25 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 08:01:56 -0800 (PST), trader_4 wrote: An 80% rated breaker may trip if it's subjected to greater than 80% current, but it will take a long time. It depends on the temp environment the breaker is in, how much above 80% the current is, and how long it continues at that level. If it's a typical kitchen and the toaster pushes it to 90% for 5 mins while making toast, it's not likely to trip unless the breaker is already in a hot environment. There are rules about acceptable loads on a breaker but if you look at the curve data on a breaker you will see that it should hold 100% of the rating pretty much forever at 40c. There will be some variance due to manufacturing tolerance but it ranges from ~.95% to 1.25% There is an example of a trip curve graph here. http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf Technically, you can put them on the same circuit, you just can't run them all at the same time if they will exceed the breaker limit. If you have a refrigerator on it, that's already running and contributes to amp usage. Therefore, whatever else you add to that circuit combined with the fridge needs to be less amps than the breaker limit. It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. The code only addresses fixed in place equipment. For example, that would include a microwave built into a range hood or bolted to a cabinet but not one sitting on the counter. How about washer/dryer? I thought code required a separate circuit for laundry and a separate circuit for an elec dryer. Since the electric dryer is 240v and most washers are 120v they will be on different circuits anyway but if you are talking about a washer and gas dryer (motor and igniter), they can both be on the laundry circuit. But nothing else can be on that laundry circuit, eg no microwave, dishwasher, etc, correct? That was essentially my point. The other poster said: "It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave." Can you put a stove/range and dryer on the same circuit? I don't think so. Washer dryer on the same circuit as a stove? I don't think so, etc. And as I said, the refrigerator isn't even a large appliance, current ones only pull like 100W. My main point is that there is a lot of code that forces stoves and a washer to be on separate circuits, it's not just about being "recommended". Some might argue that they are both "fixed in place": because they both connect to something on the wall (water and drain for the washer, exhaust for the dryer) The code would be silent on one of those portable washers that roll up to a sink, connect to the faucet and you drop the drain hose in the sink. I haven't seen one in 60 years but my sister had one in an apartment in the late 50s. The "dryer" was a rope on pulleys out the window. |
refrigerators, was: How many appliances should be on one breaker?
In writes:
[snip] It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. Not quite, and this is a way to get lots of head scratching. I've measured my own refrig/freezer and yes, the running current draw is roughly 100 watts. (Don't recall exact reading, but that's within the range). However, and this is a BIG HOWEVER, when the unit goes into its "automatic defrost" cycle, the heater pulls about 500 watts. Yes. Really. And that's a big enough number to cause grief on any moderately loaded circtui. -- __________________________________________________ ___ Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded] |
refrigerators, was: How many appliances should be on one breaker?
On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 6:33:15 PM UTC-5, danny burstein wrote:
In writes: [snip] It is recommended to put large appliances on it's own circuit, such as stove/range, refrigerator, washer, dryer and even a microwave. Not only recommended, it's code in most cases. An exception would be the refrigerator, which isn't a large load at all and can be on a shared circuit, though it may not be a good idea for obvious reasons. Most new ones are under 100W continuous. Not quite, and this is a way to get lots of head scratching. I've measured my own refrig/freezer and yes, the running current draw is roughly 100 watts. (Don't recall exact reading, but that's within the range). However, and this is a BIG HOWEVER, when the unit goes into its "automatic defrost" cycle, the heater pulls about 500 watts. Yes. Really. And that's a big enough number to cause grief on any moderately loaded circtui. IDK about causing grief on any moderately loaded circuit. 500W = ~4 amps. But you have a point, I guess they do draw considerably more when doing defrost. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:47 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter