All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

What else is on that circuit besides the pool light? The current
breaker is rated for motor loads, "hvac", the replacement is not.
If you have a pool pump on it too, etc, then it might trip during
start up. But since it's just a single pole, I'm guessing it's
probably just the lights, maybe some outlets, in which case you're
fine. 5 ma vs 100ma, never heard of a GFCI breaker that trips at
100ma, that's so high you could be dead.

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:41:34 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

What else is on that circuit besides the pool light? The current
breaker is rated for motor loads, "hvac", the replacement is not.
If you have a pool pump on it too, etc, then it might trip during
start up. But since it's just a single pole, I'm guessing it's
probably just the lights, maybe some outlets, in which case you're
fine. 5 ma vs 100ma, never heard of a GFCI breaker that trips at
100ma, that's so high you could be dead.

Thank you very much. I am not sure though I think that the pool light and some outlets are the only items in the circuit. Actually, there may be a garage opener as part of the circuit as well. Just for my reference,
1. how could you tell that the current breaker is 'hvac'?
2. would there be single pole GFCI breakers that are rated for motor loads and if so would you provide a sample link with one?

Much appreciated.

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

I know you didn't ask, but...

If the pool light (lights?) are not GFCI protected, are you sure that any nearby receptacles, equipment, etc. are?

Do you know who it was that didn't know enough to install the light (lights?) properly and are you confident that they did everything else correctly?

I just want you and yours to be safe.

Put in the new gfci and see if it works!!!!

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:10:26 AM UTC-7, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

We just moved into the house and I received zero information about who did what. So I really don't know if things were done properly though it looks like the people that lived there did take care of it. I realize that this can be dangerous so I'm going to go as far as I feel comfortable. If anything does not make sense I will call in an electrician and have it done by him/her.

On a side note, I just noticed in one of the pictures that terminals 17 and 19 are labeled as 'main'. Literally there is a square mark to the left of terminal 17 and 19 and in between it reads 'main'. Does that labeling mean anything to anyone and if so, what?

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 3:03:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:41:34 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more.. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

What else is on that circuit besides the pool light? The current
breaker is rated for motor loads, "hvac", the replacement is not.
If you have a pool pump on it too, etc, then it might trip during
start up. But since it's just a single pole, I'm guessing it's
probably just the lights, maybe some outlets, in which case you're
fine. 5 ma vs 100ma, never heard of a GFCI breaker that trips at
100ma, that's so high you could be dead.

Thank you very much. I am not sure though I think that the pool light and some outlets are the only items in the circuit. Actually, there may be a garage opener as part of the circuit as well. Just for my reference,
1. how could you tell that the current breaker is 'hvac'?


2. would there be single pole GFCI breakers that are rated for motor loads and if so would you provide a sample link with one?

Much appreciated.

The "HACR" on the old breaker indicates it was for motor loads
like those found in HVAC. Did a bit of googling and it looks
like while breakers were required to go through additional testing
for eqpt with motor loads like HVAC to get the HACR rating
they determined that all
breakers were passing it anyway and the reqt no longer exists.
So a GFCI breaker that is listed for use, ie compatible with
your panel will be fine whether it has the pool pump on it or
not.

Also, some comments were made about the installation not being done
competently. That would be true if GFCI was required at the time
it was installed, but not if it's an old pre-GFCI pool. Certainly
is a good idea to put one in.

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 3:36:34 PM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 3:03:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:41:34 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

What else is on that circuit besides the pool light? The current
breaker is rated for motor loads, "hvac", the replacement is not.
If you have a pool pump on it too, etc, then it might trip during
start up. But since it's just a single pole, I'm guessing it's
probably just the lights, maybe some outlets, in which case you're
fine. 5 ma vs 100ma, never heard of a GFCI breaker that trips at
100ma, that's so high you could be dead.

Thank you very much. I am not sure though I think that the pool light and some outlets are the only items in the circuit. Actually, there may be a garage opener as part of the circuit as well. Just for my reference,
1. how could you tell that the current breaker is 'hvac'?


2. would there be single pole GFCI breakers that are rated for motor loads and if so would you provide a sample link with one?

Much appreciated.

The "HACR" on the old breaker indicates it was for motor loads
like those found in HVAC. Did a bit of googling and it looks
like while breakers were required to go through additional testing
for eqpt with motor loads like HVAC to get the HACR rating
they determined that all
breakers were passing it anyway and the reqt no longer exists.
So a GFCI breaker that is listed for use, ie compatible with
your panel will be fine whether it has the pool pump on it or
not.

Also, some comments were made about the installation not being done
competently. That would be true if GFCI was required at the time
it was installed, but not if it's an old pre-GFCI pool. Certainly
is a good idea to put one in.

Thank you very much for the replies. I'm attaching a photo of my panel without the cover to give you a better idea. I am thinking of having an licensed electrician take care of this though I want to know how it works. I could easily replace the breaker but I'm not sure (though there is no other way) whether shutting off terminals 17&19 will be sufficient since there are the cables at the top of the panel. I'm sure those feed the sub panel but I am not super comfortable messing with this setup...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

On Thursday, July 23, 2015 at 8:24:02 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 3:36:34 PM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 3:03:44 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:41:34 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:10:26 PM UTC-4, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter..

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

What else is on that circuit besides the pool light? The current
breaker is rated for motor loads, "hvac", the replacement is not.
If you have a pool pump on it too, etc, then it might trip during
start up. But since it's just a single pole, I'm guessing it's
probably just the lights, maybe some outlets, in which case you're
fine. 5 ma vs 100ma, never heard of a GFCI breaker that trips at
100ma, that's so high you could be dead.

Thank you very much. I am not sure though I think that the pool light and some outlets are the only items in the circuit. Actually, there may be a garage opener as part of the circuit as well. Just for my reference,
1. how could you tell that the current breaker is 'hvac'?


2. would there be single pole GFCI breakers that are rated for motor loads and if so would you provide a sample link with one?

Much appreciated.

The "HACR" on the old breaker indicates it was for motor loads
like those found in HVAC. Did a bit of googling and it looks
like while breakers were required to go through additional testing
for eqpt with motor loads like HVAC to get the HACR rating
they determined that all
breakers were passing it anyway and the reqt no longer exists.
So a GFCI breaker that is listed for use, ie compatible with
your panel will be fine whether it has the pool pump on it or
not.

Also, some comments were made about the installation not being done
competently. That would be true if GFCI was required at the time
it was installed, but not if it's an old pre-GFCI pool. Certainly
is a good idea to put one in.

Thank you very much for the replies. I'm attaching a photo of my panel without the cover to give you a better idea. I am thinking of having an licensed electrician take care of this though I want to know how it works. I could easily replace the breaker but I'm not sure (though there is no other way) whether shutting off terminals 17&19 will be sufficient since there are the cables at the top of the panel. I'm sure those feed the sub panel but I am not super comfortable messing with this setup...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

I'm not sure what your exact setup is. Is this a new panel
that in turn feeds via that old cloth cable an old panel,
which is now a sub panel? What is ahead of this panel?
A main breaker/disconnect, maybe outside? Or is this a subpanel
to a main panel?

One curious thing is that on the lower left there is apparently
a 240V circuit with no ground that's driven off two single pole
breakers. That should be on a double pole breaker and should
have a ground, if the circuit was installed in contemporary times.

To put the GFCI in, you just need to replace whatever breaker
is there now and connect the white neutral wire from the GFCI
to the neutral bar. There is no disconnecting means at this
panel, so you'd have to turn off the power back at wherever
the disconnect is. If you're unfamiliar with how to do this
work safely, then an electrician would be a good idea.

Don't you have any handi-type neighbors??

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:10:26 AM UTC-7, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!

As always thank you all for all of your help. I did a bit more homework yesterday and traced the whole circuit. This house is new to me and I've got a bunch of projects running in parallel. Anyway, here is how it is laid out:

Power line arrives on the roof and it is fed into the following box. I thought that this was a circuit breaker box but it turns out that it has a single breaker. I assume it cuts off all power.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing

This box runs back to the roof and later back down into the original box that I asked about. In the picture below this line is coming from the top into the electric panel.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

And the wiring according to the labels are as follows:

1. Spare 2. empty
3. empty 4. Pool (must be the pump)
5. empty 6. empty
7. empty 8. empty
9. empty 10. Pool (must be the other pump for the solar heater)
11. empty 12. Pool lights
13. PLAGS 14. Spa
15. PLAGS 16. Spa
17. sub 18. AC
19. sub 20. AC

There is another panel inside the house that has the labels for Oven, microwave, dishwasher, etc. It looks fairly new. And it must be this panel that is being fed by terminals 17 and 19 above, I think.

So in order to replace the breaker I think that all I have to do is shut off the power at the first box and replace the breaker simply adding the white line anywhere to the neutral bar on the right, yes? Just a few more questions assuming the above is correct:

1. would you recommend testing this panel once I shut off power? I have a volt meter and I take it that I could test the points between the right bus and the right neutral. If the read is 0 then I'm good to go?
2. can you guys please confirm if the breaker that I got is the right one? I don't recall anyone confirming explicitly.
3. If the install goes to plan and the light works, is there any way to test if the light is grounded? The light is under water so pardon my lack of imagination but I'm not sure what else can be tested.

I plan on getting an electrician for some other projects but for now I think that if the first panel shuts off power I can do this project myself.

Thanks!

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:09:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:


As always thank you all for all of your help. I did a bit more homework yesterday and traced the whole circuit. This house is new to me and I've got a bunch of projects running in parallel. Anyway, here is how it is laid out:

Power line arrives on the roof and it is fed into the following box. I thought that this was a circuit breaker box but it turns out that it has a single breaker. I assume it cuts off all power.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing


Yes, that's the main breaker/disconnect for the house.



This box runs back to the roof and later back down into the original box that I asked about. In the picture below this line is coming from the top into the electric panel.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

And the wiring according to the labels are as follows:

1. Spare 2. empty
3. empty 4. Pool (must be the pump)
5. empty 6. empty
7. empty 8. empty
9. empty 10. Pool (must be the other pump for the solar heater)
11. empty 12. Pool lights
13. PLAGS 14. Spa
15. PLAGS 16. Spa
17. sub 18. AC
19. sub 20. AC

There is another panel inside the house that has the labels for Oven, microwave, dishwasher, etc. It looks fairly new. And it must be this panel that is being fed by terminals 17 and 19 above, I think.

So in order to replace the breaker I think that all I have to do is shut off the power at the first box and replace the breaker simply adding the white line anywhere to the neutral bar on the right, yes?

Yes, that;s correct.




Just a few more questions assuming the above is correct:

1. would you recommend testing this panel once I shut off power? I have a volt meter and I take it that I could test the points between the right bus and the right neutral. If the read is 0 then I'm good to go?

I'd test between both incoming hots and between each incoming hot
and the neutral. Obviously whatever loads are all connected should
go dead too.



2. can you guys please confirm if the breaker that I got is the right one? I don't recall anyone confirming explicitly.

It's for a Square D Homeline panel and that's what you say you have
and you're replacing a 15A with a 15A, so that's it.


3. If the install goes to plan and the light works, is there any way to test if the light is grounded? The light is under water so pardon my lack of imagination but I'm not sure what else can be tested.

If the breaker trips when you push the test button, it's working.
The light should be grounded properly from when it was installed,
but the GFCI doesn't even need a ground to work. It works by
comparing the current flowing out on the hot to the current returning
on the neutral and if they aren't equal, it trips. The problem
you might possibly find would be that it trips when you turn it on.
If there is any moisture in the light, in the connection boxes, etc,
and there is a little leakage current, it will trip, as it should.

The code was also changed a few years ago so that pool pumps
also need GFCI, but that only applies to new installations,
you don't have to update what you have.



I plan on getting an electrician for some other projects but for now I think that if the first panel shuts off power I can do this project myself.

Thanks!

What is that PLAGS circuit on the two breakers on the lower left
that I pointed out before? It's a 240V circuit, with no ground
and each breaker is separate. Presumably it was some old circuit
that was wired into the new panel? I'd get a handle tie to
connect the two breakers. You don't want someone working on it
turning only one off and thinking the load is no longer energized.

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:18:05 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:


So in order to replace the breaker I think that all I have to do is shut off the power at the first box and replace the breaker simply adding the white line anywhere to the neutral bar on the right, yes?

Yes, that;s correct.



After I made the last post, I realized there is one more step here.
That's the problem when you're telling someone how to do it vs just
doing it yourself.

The breaker that is there for the pool light now only has a hot
connection. The GFCI breaker has two neutral connections. One
is the wire that you correctly talked about connecting to the
neutral bar. The other is a screw terminal for the neutral
coming from the load. You need to remove that pool light neutral from
where it's connected on the neutral bar and connect it the the
neutral terminal on the GFCI.

This all gets back to how it works. With a regular breaker,
the breaker doesn't care about the current coming back on
the neutral. With GFCI, it needs to be able to compare the
hot current with the current returning on the neutral. So,
that neutral current has to come from the load, through the
GFCI breaker and then go to the neutral bar.

And then I think things take a turn for the worse. After
realizing this, to guide you through it, I went back and
looked at that pic of the panel again to see where the
pool light neutral is. Take a look at
the two neutral bars. The one on the left only has the
outgoing feed to the subpanel connected to it. The right
one has just two wires. One, the heavier one, is for the spa.
That leaves just one neutral for the circuits for 3 breakers,
which you think a

pool pump
solar pool pump
pool lights

So, something here ain't right. The only thing that would
make some sense would be if the pool pumps are actually
240V motors, which is very common. In that case, they don't
need a neutral and the one neutral would be for the pool lights.
But if that's the case, IDK why the motors would be on two separate
breakers a mile apart in the panel, instead of the way they should be,
ie one double pole breaker. The two breakers for the pumps
are on opposite legs, so it could be and hopefully is a 240V circuit.
From what I'm seeing now, unless I'm missing something, this
looks like amature hour by whoever did this and your best
bet is probably to wait and let the electrician figure out
what's going on.

BTW, does that spa have it's own GFCI? IF not, there should
be a GFCI breaker for that in this panel too.

Funny how something so simple became so much more complicated.
Maybe others here will have comments as to what they think is
going on.

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:18:05 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
....snip...

If the breaker trips when you push the test button, it's working.

....snip...

This is something I like to toss out every couple of years just for fun and to
be a PITA. ;-)

The statement above is not entirely correct. In reality, it should read:

"If the breaker trips when you push the test button, it worked."

As soon as we reset the breaker, we have no idea of it's working or not. If
we test it again 2 seconds later, then we know that it *was* working, but we
still don't know if it *is* working after we reset it. The only thing we know
for sure is that it worked when we pressed the button. That in no way ensures
that it will work when we actually need it to.

Why do they suggest that we test our GFCI's once a month? Is it to make sure
that they will trip when a hazard exists? Not really. The best we are able to
determine is that the GFCI would *not* have tripped if a hazard existed. If it
doesn't trip when the test button is pressed, odds are it wouldn't have tripped
if a hazard occurred. However, the fact that it does trip when the button is
pressed does not guarantee that it won't fail between that test and the hazard.

If they never failed while just sitting there, why would we even need to test
them? We test them to see if they have already failed, not to see if they will
work when we need them to.

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 23 Jul 2015 17:23:52 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


=20
Also, some comments were made about the installation not being done
competently. That would be true if GFCI was required at the time
it was installed, but not if it's an old pre-GFCI pool. Certainly
is a good idea to put one in.

Thank you very much for the replies. I'm attaching a photo of my panel with=
out the cover to give you a better idea. I am thinking of having an license=
d electrician take care of this though I want to know how it works. I could=
easily replace the breaker but I'm not sure (though there is no other way)=
whether shutting off terminals 17&19 will be sufficient since there are th=
e cables at the top of the panel. I'm sure those feed the sub panel but I a=
m not super comfortable messing with this setup...=20

If this is the main panel, shut off the main switch on it, the one you
think is the main switch, and that should shut off all the power in the
house. If nothing in the house works, even when you turn it on, you
can be pretty sure you shut the power off. Shut off anything you
turned on, even if it didn't go on. Pay special attention to whatever
the gfci controls.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=3D0...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk