I hate to reopen this apparently age-old debate, about
gutters, gutter screens, gutter hoods, etc., but after
scanning numerous old posts (still a drop in the bucket of the
total amount written), I haven't found something that really
speaks to me.

So, perhaps if I describe my particular situation, and ask for
advice, it might help. For anyone who takes the time to
read through this post and reply, I really appreaciate it.

I'm pretty sure that the gutters on our 1977 house date to 1977.
I believe they are aluminum (they are metal at any rate), they
are sectional, and I think they need to be replaced. As long
as I'm replacing the gutters, I want to do it right.

** Why I think the gutters need to be replaced **
There are many places where water drips through small holes in
the gutter instead of following the path down the downspout -
especially if the gutters get partially or fully clogged. In
some places they no longer have the poper angle for all of
the water to drain out. In some places, the facia boards
behind the gutters appear to be rotted. In some places, they
are now hanging so that water can easily get between the gutter
and the facia board. I have made minor tweaks to the gutters
to improve things, but the condition of the gutters makes me
think that at this point, replacing them would be better than
fixing them.

** Why I think I need gutters at all **
There are decks and flower beds around the house. If water
falls on the deck, it splatters up agains the doors and rots
the wood framing. If water cascades down on the flower beds,
it's not so nice for the flowers (if the deer haven't already
eaten them). There are some areas around the house
with drainage issues (like in front of the garage).

** Conditions at our house **
Roof pitch: about 30 degrees (quite steep).
Trees: Lots! Probably worse than living in a pine forest, we
live in a hemlock forest. Those tiny needles fill up the
gutters really fast (especially if some larger debris manages
to block the downspout) and they fell right through the cheap
plastic screening I had up for a while. There is also a big
oak near the house and various maple and other trees near
enough to shed leaves in the gutters.
Climate: Ithaca NY. Plenty of rain. Plenty of snow and Ice in
in the winter.

** What to do, how much should it cost? **
Should I get plastic/vynil, aluminum or steel gutters?
Single piece or sectional?
What should I do to prevent leaf/needle accumulation in the
gutters? Screens? hoods? those little baskets that keep
larger debris from blocking the downspouts? nothing at all?
I don't expect to never have to clean the gutters, but as
it is now, it needs to be done 3 or 4 times a year to keep
things working properly. I would like to minimize that pain.
The hemlock needlese seem to wedge themselves into any tiny
crack.
I haven't measured, but I probably need somewhere in the range
of 120 linear feet of gutter (including 2-car garage) and 6
or 7 downspouts (4 or 5 in the 8-12 foot heigh and 2 at a
15 to 20 foot height).
I hope to contract this out and not do any of the work myself.
How much should I expect to pay for various types of gutters?
I don't just want the cheapest solution, but my poketbook is
far from botomless. I am willing to pay more for higher
quality, but I would like to get the best value for the money.

Thanks for any input.

-Jonathan

First, I would rip off gutters and have a trusted carpenter repair/replace,
prime, and paint rotted facia board. This is crucial.
Given money constraints, I'd go for seamless pre-painted aluminum,
fabricated on the spot, providing you don't have severe ice or salt air
issues in your area. Several colors that coordinate with your house may be
available. Stress importance of keeping proper pitch on gutters and silicone
caulking of all joints. Also, check the warrantees available. Re the
needles, cheapest solution is to include aluminum mesh screens in your
estimate. Get three or four estimates, as they vary wildly, and take the
contractor that pleases you most, has large customer base, and offers
reasonable price. The Yellow Pages are a good starting point - go for the
big ads with big volume, and lengthy business history. Also, check with
neighbors to see who they use, and how well they did, and how the gutters
look. Before accepting an estimate, check the company against the Better
Business Bureau for complaints.
Best of Luck.

Jonathan Joseph wrote:
I hate to reopen this apparently age-old debate, about
gutters, gutter screens, gutter hoods, etc., but after
scanning numerous old posts (still a drop in the bucket of the
total amount written), I haven't found something that really
speaks to me.
.....

I think Roger did an very good job with everything he commented on

As for the leaf - needle question, I suggest asking neighbors for
something that works for them. It seems there are many different approaches
for this problem. Some work for some conditions and other work for other
conditions and some don't work at all. The mix of stuff that finds it's way
to your gutters is local and that seems to determine what system(s), if any
work. What works in Florida may not work a all in Washington State.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Unfortunately (or fortunately) there are few neighbors, and none who are
actually in the hemlock forest like we are.

-Jonathan


As for the leaf - needle question, I suggest asking neighbors for
something that works for them. It seems there are many different approaches
for this problem. Some work for some conditions and other work for other
conditions and some don't work at all. The mix of stuff that finds it's way
to your gutters is local and that seems to determine what system(s), if any
work. What works in Florida may not work a all in Washington State.

Leafguard brand gutters work for leave and pineneedles. Mesh screens do not
work for pine needles. I live in NC. We have our share of ice and had a 2
feet snowstorm once and the Leafguard gutters are perfect after 7 years but
I cannot say what would happen to the Leafguard gutters if we had 100 inches
of snow every winter like I did when I lived in Rochester NY.


"Jonathan Joseph" wrote in message
...

Unfortunately (or fortunately) there are few neighbors, and none who are
actually in the hemlock forest like we are.

-Jonathan


As for the leaf - needle question, I suggest asking neighbors for
something that works for them. It seems there are many different
approaches
for this problem. Some work for some conditions and other work for
other
conditions and some don't work at all. The mix of stuff that finds it's
way
to your gutters is local and that seems to determine what system(s), if
any
work. What works in Florida may not work a all in Washington State.

On Wed, 26 May 2004 21:48:10 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

Leafguard brand gutters work for leave and pineneedles. Mesh screens do not
work for pine needles. I live in NC. We have our share of ice and had a 2
feet snowstorm once and the Leafguard gutters are perfect after 7 years but
I cannot say what would happen to the Leafguard gutters if we had 100 inches
of snow every winter like I did when I lived in Rochester NY.

What kind of gutters did you have in Rochester? Just regular aluminum
ones, no covers or guards? FYI, we're still enjoying lots of snow up
here, had about 130" this past winter.

I left Rochester in 1980 which was mild winter. Should have left in 1979
when we had 160 inches. Like driving in a blizzard every darn winter day.
I rented in Rochester so the gutter problems were owned by my landlord. My
parents on Long Island had a decent amount of snow and put in Leafguards
about 6 years ago with no problems. But still not a Rochester NY test.





wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 May 2004 21:48:10 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

Leafguard brand gutters work for leave and pineneedles. Mesh screens do
not
work for pine needles. I live in NC. We have our share of ice and had a
2
feet snowstorm once and the Leafguard gutters are perfect after 7 years
but
I cannot say what would happen to the Leafguard gutters if we had 100
inches
of snow every winter like I did when I lived in Rochester NY.

What kind of gutters did you have in Rochester? Just regular aluminum
ones, no covers or guards? FYI, we're still enjoying lots of snow up
here, had about 130" this past winter.

The real question is this: Unless you are blocking water near a doorway or
walkway, or flower bed, why do you need gutters at all? Many reputable
contractors ask the same question....
"Jonathan Joseph" wrote in message
...

I hate to reopen this apparently age-old debate, about
gutters, gutter screens, gutter hoods, etc., but after
scanning numerous old posts (still a drop in the bucket of the
total amount written), I haven't found something that really
speaks to me.

So, perhaps if I describe my particular situation, and ask for
advice, it might help. For anyone who takes the time to
read through this post and reply, I really appreaciate it.

I'm pretty sure that the gutters on our 1977 house date to 1977.
I believe they are aluminum (they are metal at any rate), they
are sectional, and I think they need to be replaced. As long
as I'm replacing the gutters, I want to do it right.

** Why I think the gutters need to be replaced **
There are many places where water drips through small holes in
the gutter instead of following the path down the downspout -
especially if the gutters get partially or fully clogged. In
some places they no longer have the poper angle for all of
the water to drain out. In some places, the facia boards
behind the gutters appear to be rotted. In some places, they
are now hanging so that water can easily get between the gutter
and the facia board. I have made minor tweaks to the gutters
to improve things, but the condition of the gutters makes me
think that at this point, replacing them would be better than
fixing them.

** Why I think I need gutters at all **
There are decks and flower beds around the house. If water
falls on the deck, it splatters up agains the doors and rots
the wood framing. If water cascades down on the flower beds,
it's not so nice for the flowers (if the deer haven't already
eaten them). There are some areas around the house
with drainage issues (like in front of the garage).

** Conditions at our house **
Roof pitch: about 30 degrees (quite steep).
Trees: Lots! Probably worse than living in a pine forest, we
live in a hemlock forest. Those tiny needles fill up the
gutters really fast (especially if some larger debris manages
to block the downspout) and they fell right through the cheap
plastic screening I had up for a while. There is also a big
oak near the house and various maple and other trees near
enough to shed leaves in the gutters.
Climate: Ithaca NY. Plenty of rain. Plenty of snow and Ice in
in the winter.

** What to do, how much should it cost? **
Should I get plastic/vynil, aluminum or steel gutters?
Single piece or sectional?
What should I do to prevent leaf/needle accumulation in the
gutters? Screens? hoods? those little baskets that keep
larger debris from blocking the downspouts? nothing at all?
I don't expect to never have to clean the gutters, but as
it is now, it needs to be done 3 or 4 times a year to keep
things working properly. I would like to minimize that pain.
The hemlock needlese seem to wedge themselves into any tiny
crack.
I haven't measured, but I probably need somewhere in the range
of 120 linear feet of gutter (including 2-car garage) and 6
or 7 downspouts (4 or 5 in the 8-12 foot heigh and 2 at a
15 to 20 foot height).
I hope to contract this out and not do any of the work myself.
How much should I expect to pay for various types of gutters?
I don't just want the cheapest solution, but my poketbook is
far from botomless. I am willing to pay more for higher
quality, but I would like to get the best value for the money.

Thanks for any input.

-Jonathan

Steven Bliss wrote:
The real question is this: Unless you are blocking water near a
doorway or walkway, or flower bed, why do you need gutters at all?
Many reputable contractors ask the same question....
"Jonathan Joseph" wrote in message
...

To move it away from the home's foundation.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

My point is this (and I've heard many reputable contractors say the same
thing): the vast majority of the homes in my area are 20-50 yrs old. They
were not built with gutters around the entire house. They are still here,
and did not float away. I could understand why you may need them with an
unsealed basement, etc.
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Steven Bliss wrote:
The real question is this: Unless you are blocking water near a
doorway or walkway, or flower bed, why do you need gutters at all?
Many reputable contractors ask the same question....
"Jonathan Joseph" wrote in message
...

To move it away from the home's foundation.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Steven Bliss wrote:
My point is this (and I've heard many reputable contractors say the
same thing): the vast majority of the homes in my area are 20-50 yrs
old. They were not built with gutters around the entire house. They
are still here, and did not float away. I could understand why you
may need them with an unsealed basement, etc.

Sealed or not, the first and most important thing to do to keep a dry
basement, is to get the moisture away from the foundation.

There is also some issue about all that water running down the siding.


--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Joseph Meehan wrote:

Steven Bliss wrote:

My point is this (and I've heard many reputable contractors say the
same thing): the vast majority of the homes in my area are 20-50 yrs
old. They were not built with gutters around the entire house. They
are still here, and did not float away. I could understand why you
may need them with an unsealed basement, etc.


Sealed or not, the first and most important thing to do to keep a dry
basement, is to get the moisture away from the foundation.

There is also some issue about all that water running down the siding.


What water running down the siding?

Bob

On Sat, 29 May 2004 10:56:05 GMT, "Steven Bliss"
wrote:

My point is this (and I've heard many reputable contractors say the same
thing): the vast majority of the homes in my area are 20-50 yrs old. They
were not built with gutters around the entire house. They are still here,
and did not float away. I could understand why you may need them with an
unsealed basement, etc.

The rain argument ignores the snow that is wedged against a structure
all winter.

"Steven Bliss" wrote in message
...
The real question is this: Unless you are blocking water near a doorway
or
walkway, or flower bed, why do you need gutters at all? Many reputable
contractors ask the same question....

To properly channel water away from the house foundation, where it
can cause a whole host of problems. I've seen lots of people on here
with wet basement problems, seeking all kinds of expensive solutions,
when they haven't even taken care of rainwater properly first.

And to prevent erosion of the soil rain falling directly from the roof would
cause.

Any contractor that asks that questions the need for gutters, can't be very
reputable.












"Jonathan Joseph" wrote in message
...

I hate to reopen this apparently age-old debate, about
gutters, gutter screens, gutter hoods, etc., but after
scanning numerous old posts (still a drop in the bucket of the
total amount written), I haven't found something that really
speaks to me.

So, perhaps if I describe my particular situation, and ask for
advice, it might help. For anyone who takes the time to
read through this post and reply, I really appreaciate it.

I'm pretty sure that the gutters on our 1977 house date to 1977.
I believe they are aluminum (they are metal at any rate), they
are sectional, and I think they need to be replaced. As long
as I'm replacing the gutters, I want to do it right.

** Why I think the gutters need to be replaced **
There are many places where water drips through small holes in
the gutter instead of following the path down the downspout -
especially if the gutters get partially or fully clogged. In
some places they no longer have the poper angle for all of
the water to drain out. In some places, the facia boards
behind the gutters appear to be rotted. In some places, they
are now hanging so that water can easily get between the gutter
and the facia board. I have made minor tweaks to the gutters
to improve things, but the condition of the gutters makes me
think that at this point, replacing them would be better than
fixing them.

** Why I think I need gutters at all **
There are decks and flower beds around the house. If water
falls on the deck, it splatters up agains the doors and rots
the wood framing. If water cascades down on the flower beds,
it's not so nice for the flowers (if the deer haven't already
eaten them). There are some areas around the house
with drainage issues (like in front of the garage).

** Conditions at our house **
Roof pitch: about 30 degrees (quite steep).
Trees: Lots! Probably worse than living in a pine forest, we
live in a hemlock forest. Those tiny needles fill up the
gutters really fast (especially if some larger debris manages
to block the downspout) and they fell right through the cheap
plastic screening I had up for a while. There is also a big
oak near the house and various maple and other trees near
enough to shed leaves in the gutters.
Climate: Ithaca NY. Plenty of rain. Plenty of snow and Ice in
in the winter.

** What to do, how much should it cost? **
Should I get plastic/vynil, aluminum or steel gutters?
Single piece or sectional?
What should I do to prevent leaf/needle accumulation in the
gutters? Screens? hoods? those little baskets that keep
larger debris from blocking the downspouts? nothing at all?
I don't expect to never have to clean the gutters, but as
it is now, it needs to be done 3 or 4 times a year to keep
things working properly. I would like to minimize that pain.
The hemlock needlese seem to wedge themselves into any tiny
crack.
I haven't measured, but I probably need somewhere in the range
of 120 linear feet of gutter (including 2-car garage) and 6
or 7 downspouts (4 or 5 in the 8-12 foot heigh and 2 at a
15 to 20 foot height).
I hope to contract this out and not do any of the work myself.
How much should I expect to pay for various types of gutters?
I don't just want the cheapest solution, but my poketbook is
far from botomless. I am willing to pay more for higher
quality, but I would like to get the best value for the money.

Thanks for any input.

-Jonathan