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Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
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***if you don't want the whole story, jump to "details"***
Hi everyone, I've done extensive research about my problem in old NG posts and repair sites on the net. I just wanted to clarify that I'm replacing the correct parts so that I don't continue to throw money away.... Last week while washing a load of laundry, I smelled something like melting plastic or hot wax...after noticing the smell, I noticed that the washer had gone through all cycles except the spin cycle. I opened the lid and decided that the smell was definitely coming from within the washer(later narrowed it to the lid switch). Ok, so I researched and decided that I'd try to replace the lid switch to resolve the problem. Seemed fine for about 2 loads on Saturday, but this morning after putting a load in, the "smell" returned, and the machine will not spin. So $25 on a part that was probably not the problem (I *did* test the old switch before replacing it, but since I've read that a switch can -test- fine, but still be weak I chalked it up to that theory). *** DETAILS *** Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with manual intervention) under 2 conditions: 1. lid open, no clothes loaded or 2. clothes loaded and "jump started" by hand (i.e. push it with my hand then it kicks in on its own). Replaced lid switch..it was NOT the prblem. I'm thinking that it's the drive coupling (as seen he http://repair2000.com/coupling.html) Can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot to anyone who can help! -paul P.S. it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year (was bought used about a year ago)...only has motor and transmission, no belt as far as I know (I've seen it apart before) |
#2
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"paul" wrote in message ...
Hi, The lid switch would prevent the draining & spinning from working if it was bad. *Some* won't spin trouble makers and info.... http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-nospin.html If the motor coupler is bad, the agitation usually will fail as well....but no harm in checking the motor coupler!! http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html Access helps. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/ ***if you don't want the whole story, jump to "details"*** Hi everyone, I've done extensive research about my problem in old NG posts and repair sites on the net. I just wanted to clarify that I'm replacing the correct parts so that I don't continue to throw money away.... Last week while washing a load of laundry, I smelled something like melting plastic or hot wax...after noticing the smell, I noticed that the washer had gone through all cycles except the spin cycle. I opened the lid and decided that the smell was definitely coming from within the washer(later narrowed it to the lid switch). Ok, so I researched and decided that I'd try to replace the lid switch to resolve the problem. Seemed fine for about 2 loads on Saturday, but this morning after putting a load in, the "smell" returned, and the machine will not spin. So $25 on a part that was probably not the problem (I *did* test the old switch before replacing it, but since I've read that a switch can -test- fine, but still be weak I chalked it up to that theory). *** DETAILS *** Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with manual intervention) under 2 conditions: 1. lid open, no clothes loaded or 2. clothes loaded and "jump started" by hand (i.e. push it with my hand then it kicks in on its own). Replaced lid switch..it was NOT the prblem. I'm thinking that it's the drive coupling Can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot to anyone who can help! -paul P.S. it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year (was bought used about a year ago)...only has motor and transmission, no belt as far as I know (I've seen it apart before) |
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