***if you don't want the whole story, jump to "details"***

Hi everyone,
I've done extensive research about my problem in old NG posts and repair
sites on the net. I just wanted to clarify that I'm replacing the correct
parts so that I don't continue to throw money away....

Last week while washing a load of laundry, I smelled something like melting
plastic or hot wax...after noticing the smell, I noticed that the washer had
gone through all cycles except the spin cycle. I opened the lid and decided
that the smell was definitely coming from within the washer(later narrowed
it to the lid switch). Ok, so I researched and decided that I'd try to
replace the lid switch to resolve the problem. Seemed fine for about 2
loads on Saturday, but this morning after putting a load in, the "smell"
returned, and the machine will not spin. So $25 on a part that was probably
not the problem (I *did* test the old switch before replacing it, but since
I've read that a switch can -test- fine, but still be weak I chalked it up
to that theory).


*** DETAILS ***

Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with manual intervention)
under 2 conditions: 1. lid open, no clothes loaded or 2. clothes loaded and
"jump started" by hand (i.e. push it with my hand then it kicks in on its
own). Replaced lid switch..it was NOT the prblem. I'm thinking that it's
the drive coupling (as seen he http://repair2000.com/coupling.html) Can
anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot to
anyone who can help!

-paul

P.S. it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year (was bought used about a
year ago)...only has motor and transmission, no belt as far as I know (I've
seen it apart before)

"paul" wrote in message ...

Hi,

The lid switch would prevent the draining & spinning from working if
it was bad.

*Some* won't spin trouble makers and info....
http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-nospin.html

If the motor coupler is bad, the agitation usually will fail as
well....but no harm in checking the motor coupler!!

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
Access helps.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

***if you don't want the whole story, jump to "details"***

Hi everyone,
I've done extensive research about my problem in old NG posts and repair
sites on the net. I just wanted to clarify that I'm replacing the correct
parts so that I don't continue to throw money away....

Last week while washing a load of laundry, I smelled something like melting
plastic or hot wax...after noticing the smell, I noticed that the washer had
gone through all cycles except the spin cycle. I opened the lid and decided
that the smell was definitely coming from within the washer(later narrowed
it to the lid switch). Ok, so I researched and decided that I'd try to
replace the lid switch to resolve the problem. Seemed fine for about 2
loads on Saturday, but this morning after putting a load in, the "smell"
returned, and the machine will not spin. So $25 on a part that was probably
not the problem (I *did* test the old switch before replacing it, but since
I've read that a switch can -test- fine, but still be weak I chalked it up
to that theory).


*** DETAILS ***

Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with manual intervention)
under 2 conditions: 1. lid open, no clothes loaded or 2. clothes loaded and
"jump started" by hand (i.e. push it with my hand then it kicks in on its
own). Replaced lid switch..it was NOT the prblem. I'm thinking that it's
the drive coupling Can
anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot to
anyone who can help!

-paul

P.S. it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year (was bought used about a
year ago)...only has motor and transmission, no belt as far as I know (I've
seen it apart before)

Ok guys..........here we go... Whirlpool model number is LSC8244DQ0. From
the replies so far, I'm assuming that the problem is as Dan stated...either
the timer or the neutral drain mechanism in the transmission. I'm going to
take the control panel off to look at the switch/timer contacts. I'll post
again if I see anything interesting I'm really *hoping* that it was the
timer considering that I smelled something "burning" when the problem arose.
If it's the transmission I'm sure that is going to be more costly and time
consuming. Thanks for all of the help so far!

-paul




Hi,
Wouldn't it be timer contact for spin cycle to check first?
Tony

Ok everyone, my latest investigative work is finished. The timer seems to
be in good shape -no burnt contacts, and continuity seems fine on all of the
pins. I believe that the problem is in the transmission. I have no idea
how the "burning plastic" odor plays into the situation. Everything seems
to work fine including the timer sending the signal to start the spin cycle.
The problem is that it just makes a noise (motor running, but transmission
not engaged??) when the spin cycle starts.

If I open the lid at this point, hold in the lid switch with a screwdriver
and give the basket a slight spin it kicks in by itself, drains, spins out
and finishes the load normally(after I've removed the screwdriver & closed
the lid of course). So there is apparently some *mechanical* part that is
not engaging when the spin cycle is supposed to turn on (even though it
seems as if it's being told to do so by the timer). Does this extra info
help out in any further diagnosis? All experts feel free to ring in here
In case you guys didn't see my other post, the washer model number is:
LSC8244DQ0 and it is a Whirlpool with no belt.

-paul