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Antenna Grounding
Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I
have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John |
#2
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Antenna Grounding
John wrote:
Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John Off the top of my head, I would drive a new 8' or 10' ground rod right under the mast and ground to it with a big wire with as few bends in it as possible -- probably a bare stranded #8. Then I would run a #6 solid wire from the that new electrode to the nearest point on the grounding electrode system for the house -- the electric meter enclosure would be the closest point on my service. The new ground rod is now an extension of your service ground. If your antenna takes a lightning hit, the most of the charge should travel straight down into the new ground electrode under your tower. -bob |
#3
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Antenna Grounding
"zxcvbob" wrote in message ... John wrote: Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John Off the top of my head, I would drive a new 8' or 10' ground rod right under the mast and ground to it with a big wire with as few bends in it as possible -- probably a bare stranded #8. Then I would run a #6 solid wire from the that new electrode to the nearest point on the grounding electrode system for the house -- the electric meter enclosure would be the closest point on my service. The new ground rod is now an extension of your service ground. If your antenna takes a lightning hit, the most of the charge should travel straight down into the new ground electrode under your tower. -bob Sound advice except for the connecting conductor needs to be the same size as the grounding electrode for the service. 200 amp is #4. Grounding the antenna will not protect you from a lightning strike. It might divert some of the energy into the ground before it destroys your running electronics... Sorry it is the way it is. |
#4
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Antenna Grounding
SQLit wrote:
"zxcvbob" wrote in message ... John wrote: Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John Off the top of my head, I would drive a new 8' or 10' ground rod right under the mast and ground to it with a big wire with as few bends in it as possible -- probably a bare stranded #8. Then I would run a #6 solid wire from the that new electrode to the nearest point on the grounding electrode system for the house -- the electric meter enclosure would be the closest point on my service. The new ground rod is now an extension of your service ground. If your antenna takes a lightning hit, the most of the charge should travel straight down into the new ground electrode under your tower. -bob Sound advice except for the connecting conductor needs to be the same size as the grounding electrode for the service. 200 amp is #4. Grounding the antenna will not protect you from a lightning strike. It might divert some of the energy into the ground before it destroys your running electronics... Sorry it is the way it is. This isn't the main Grounding Electrode Conductor for the service, it is a grounding electrode conductor to a supplimental made-electrode. 250-94 has an exception that sez: "Where connected to made electrodes as in Section 250-83 (c) or (d), that portion of the grounding electrode conductor that is the sole connection to the grounding electrode shall not be required to be larger than No. 6 copper or No. 4 aluminum" Of course, I might be interpretting that incorrectly, or the exception may have been removed in a later version of the code book than my old one. Also you might want to use #4 instead of #6 to avoid having to run it in a conduit if the wire is subjected to physical damage. Best regards, Bob |
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Antenna Grounding
"John" wrote in message om... Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The ground wire can be attached to the water pipe only if attached within 5 feet from where the underground metal water pipe enters the building. That same pipe should already be connected to the electric power grounding system. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John The antenna lead-in should pass through an antenna discharge unit before it enters the house. The ground wire can be attached to the mast (using an appropriate clamp or lug), onward, through the ground lug on the discharge unit, then on to the water pipe _if_the water pipe meets the requirements stated above. Otherwise, drive a ground rod and connect it to that. The ground rod then needs to be connected with a minimum #6 copper conductor to the electric power grounding system. The ground wire from the mast should be ran as straight as possible (line of sight) to ground. Use copper wire if connecting to a ground rod. |
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Antenna Grounding
"SQLit" wrote in message news:e_83c.14802$BA.7129@fed1read03... Sound advice except for the connecting conductor needs to be the same size as the grounding electrode for the service. 200 amp is #4. The grounding wire for a TV antenna needs to be no smaller than #10 copper {810.21(H)}. The bonding jumper between the ground rod and the electric service can be no smaller than #6 copper {810.21(J)}. However, I do concur, as many electrical contractors will carry a spool of #4 bare and use it exclusively, regardless. Simply because it does't need protection like smaller wires do and will cover any situation under 200 amps. |
#7
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Antenna Grounding
John wrote:
Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. If that Antenna is the highest thing around it may attract lightning. Your grounding plan will bring it inside your home. That you don't want to do. Since the grounding may be for other than lightening protection your answer may be different. Did it not come with some instructions? The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. If it is for lightning protection you DON'T want to use your home electrical ground, you want it to have its own ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? That is the part I can't see from here. Again did they not have some instructions with it? Thanks John -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math |
#8
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Antenna Grounding
John wrote:
Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. If that Antenna is the highest thing around it may attract lightning. Your grounding plan will bring it inside your home. That you don't want to do. Since the grounding may be for other than lightening protection your answer may be different. Did it not come with some instructions? The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. If it is for lightning protection you DON'T want to use your home electrical ground, you want it to have its own ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? That is the part I can't see from here. Again did they not have some instructions with it? Thanks John -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math |
#9
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Antenna Grounding
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message ... John wrote: Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. If that Antenna is the highest thing around it may attract lightning. Your grounding plan will bring it inside your home. That you don't want to do. Since the grounding may be for other than lightening protection your answer may be different. Did it not come with some instructions? The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. If it is for lightning protection you DON'T want to use your home electrical ground, you want it to have its own ground. While it is true that a (true) lightning protection system should have it own grounding system, it is very important that any lightning protection grounding system be bonded to the electric power grounding system, resulting in essentially one grounding system, increasing the chances that the whole system rises to the same potential during a strike. NEC Section 250.106 Lightning Protection Systems. "The lightning protection system grounding terminals shall be bonded to the building or structure grounding electrode system." |
#10
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Antenna Grounding
"John" wrote in message om... Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John This is Turtle. just a thought here. Do you really want a 30 foot rod up in the air that has a wire leeding direct to your bath tub and when or if lightening ever stricks it. You are in the direct path of 10,000 volts of electricity. So is true with every plumbing fixiture in your home will be in the direct path of 10,000 volts. I would not want to hook up my bath tub to a 30 foot lightening rod in the air. Now if you feel luck , well go for it. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.611 / Virus Database: 391 - Release Date: 3/4/2004 |
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Antenna Grounding
"TURTLE" wrote in message ... This is Turtle. just a thought here. Do you really want a 30 foot rod up in the air that has a wire leeding direct to your bath tub and when or if lightening ever stricks it. You are in the direct path of 10,000 volts of electricity. So is true with every plumbing fixiture in your home will be in the direct path of 10,000 volts. I would not want to hook up my bath tub to a 30 foot lightening rod in the air. Now if you feel luck , well go for it. TURTLE During a lightning storm, talking on a corded telephone, taking a shower, washing hands or doing dishes, and/or contact with conductive surfaces is not recommended in _any_ building. Unplug any electric equipment (including phone, cable, antenna, etc.) _before_ a lightning storm, _not_ during one. Failure to ground an antenna will _guarantee_, should the antenna be struck, that a destructive path will occur. _Not_ bonding grounding systems together will also guarantee that potentials will exist between different systems during a strike, leading to destructive current paths. Don't let fear of the unknown, or lack of common sense (like taking a shower during a lightning storm) lead to decisions that result in conditions that are worse than not grounding and bonding the antenna to the electric system. |
#12
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Antenna Grounding
volts500 wrote:
"TURTLE" wrote in message ... During a lightning storm, talking on a corded telephone, taking a shower, washing hands or doing dishes, and/or contact with conductive surfaces is not recommended in _any_ building. Unplug any electric equipment (including phone, cable, antenna, etc.) _before_ a lightning storm, _not_ during one. Around here, I would have to unplug everything all summer long. ;-) -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math |
#13
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Antenna Grounding
"volts500" wrote in message m... "TURTLE" wrote in message ... This is Turtle. just a thought here. Do you really want a 30 foot rod up in the air that has a wire leeding direct to your bath tub and when or if lightening ever stricks it. You are in the direct path of 10,000 volts of electricity. So is true with every plumbing fixiture in your home will be in the direct path of 10,000 volts. I would not want to hook up my bath tub to a 30 foot lightening rod in the air. Now if you feel luck , well go for it. TURTLE During a lightning storm, talking on a corded telephone, taking a shower, washing hands or doing dishes, and/or contact with conductive surfaces is not recommended in _any_ building. Unplug any electric equipment (including phone, cable, antenna, etc.) _before_ a lightning storm, _not_ during one. Failure to ground an antenna will _guarantee_, should the antenna be struck, that a destructive path will occur. _Not_ bonding grounding systems together will also guarantee that potentials will exist between different systems during a strike, leading to destructive current paths. Don't let fear of the unknown, or lack of common sense (like taking a shower during a lightning storm) lead to decisions that result in conditions that are worse than not grounding and bonding the antenna to the electric system. This is Turtle. Yes, Ground the antenna to the ground system of the electric and to a ground rod , but not to the water pipes in the home. This is just putting the water system in the path of the strick. If doing so puts every water outlet a point of the electric strick. You have enough with the electrical system and i would not add the bathrooms towlet, kitchen sinks, and every water outlet. This maybe over kill here but just a added measure. TURTLE P.S. And don't wash your hands during a electric storm if you have your water system hooked up to the gounding system. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.611 / Virus Database: 391 - Release Date: 3/3/2004 |
#14
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Antenna Grounding
According to TURTLE :
Yes, Ground the antenna to the ground system of the electric and to a ground rod , but not to the water pipes in the home. This is just putting the water system in the path of the strick. If doing so puts every water outlet a point of the electric strick. You have enough with the electrical system and i would not add the bathrooms towlet, kitchen sinks, and every water outlet. This maybe over kill here but just a added measure. I think you're missing the fact that the electrical code, in addition to requiring that the lightning arrester system is connected to the system ground, also requires that metallic plumbing must be connected to the system ground. You don't have a choice. If you _have_ to be in the tub when lightning strikes, your survival rate is likely to be much higher if the plumbing is grounded. Otherwise, you're part of a large floating antenna (large arrays of heavy copper (which is what a plumbing system _is_) is quite attractive to lightning). -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
#15
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Antenna Grounding
Joseph is right. You do NOT want to ground a lightning strike thru your house. Hammer in a copper rod as deep as you can and as near your mast as possible. Keep this ground away from your house wiring. Pj On Tue, 09 Mar 2004 02:47:01 GMT, "volts500" wrote: "Joseph Meehan" wrote in message ... John wrote: Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. If that Antenna is the highest thing around it may attract lightning. Your grounding plan will bring it inside your home. That you don't want to do. Since the grounding may be for other than lightening protection your answer may be different. Did it not come with some instructions? The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. If it is for lightning protection you DON'T want to use your home electrical ground, you want it to have its own ground. While it is true that a (true) lightning protection system should have it own grounding system, it is very important that any lightning protection grounding system be bonded to the electric power grounding system, resulting in essentially one grounding system, increasing the chances that the whole system rises to the same potential during a strike. NEC Section 250.106 Lightning Protection Systems. "The lightning protection system grounding terminals shall be bonded to the building or structure grounding electrode system." |
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Antenna Grounding
PJx wrote:
Joseph is right. You do NOT want to ground a lightning strike thru your house. Hammer in a copper rod as deep as you can and as near your mast as possible. Keep this ground away from your house wiring. Pj Nope, he's wrong. The electrical code says the antenna ground or lightning rod ground is supposed to be tied to the grounding electrode system (and the water pipes are also attached to the grounding electrode system; the water main may even be the primary electrode.) BTW, a proper lighting rod has a sharp point, and the corona discharge should bleed off much of the electric potential before lightning strikes, or instead of lighting striking. -Bob |
#17
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Antenna Grounding
"PJx" wrote in message ... Joseph is right. You do NOT want to ground a lightning strike thru your house. Hammer in a copper rod as deep as you can and as near your mast as possible. Keep this ground away from your house wiring. Pj I'll agree that the lightning should be kept routed outside the house if possible, however, not bonding the antenna ground rod to the electric power grounding system is a big mistake. |
#18
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Antenna Grounding
volts500 wrote:
"PJx" wrote in message ... Joseph is right. You do NOT want to ground a lightning strike thru your house. Hammer in a copper rod as deep as you can and as near your mast as possible. Keep this ground away from your house wiring. Pj I'll agree that the lightning should be kept routed outside the house if possible, however, not bonding the antenna ground rod to the electric power grounding system is a big mistake. But not as big as just bonding it to a water pipe! -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math |
#19
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Antenna Grounding
Thanks you all for your suggestions. I was planning on putting a
seperate ground(8'rod) just below where the cable comes into the house and using a grounding block for that cable. The problem is that there is no way of connecting this ground to my main house ground with out running a bare wire 50ft accross my house or yd. The wife would not put up with that. The other thing is to ground the mast I use a bare #6 and run that down the house to the ground? I might be able to get a coated wire and use that, but a bare wire would be pretty unsightly. Thanks again for all the responses John |
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Antenna Grounding
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message ... volts500 wrote: "PJx" wrote in message ... Joseph is right. You do NOT want to ground a lightning strike thru your house. Hammer in a copper rod as deep as you can and as near your mast as possible. Keep this ground away from your house wiring. Pj I'll agree that the lightning should be kept routed outside the house if possible, however, not bonding the antenna ground rod to the electric power grounding system is a big mistake. But not as big as just bonding it to a water pipe! I believe that I made it very clear in another post to the OP that if using a water pipe to ground the TV antenna that it must be made to an underground metal water pipe within 5 feet of where the pipe enters the interior of the building as permitted by NEC Section 810.21(F)(1)b. Failure to bond the TV antenna ground rod to the electric power grounding system will result in several (if not 10) thousands of volts (and the resulting destructive current flow) between the systems during a nearby strike, which can result in a possible shock and fire hazard. The NEC solution is to bond _all_ grounding systems of different systems together (electric power, TV antenna, cable TV, phone, etc.) so that they all come up to the _same_ potential during a strike. No potential difference between systems, no destructive current flow. |
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Antenna Grounding
volts500 wrote:
..... But not as big as just bonding it to a water pipe! I believe that I made it very clear in another post ... I was not attempting to contradict anything you had written, I just wanted to emphasize the danger of doing what the OP suggested. -- Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math |
#22
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Antenna Grounding
"Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... According to TURTLE : Yes, Ground the antenna to the ground system of the electric and to a ground rod , but not to the water pipes in the home. This is just putting the water system in the path of the strick. If doing so puts every water outlet a point of the electric strick. You have enough with the electrical system and i would not add the bathrooms towlet, kitchen sinks, and every water outlet. This maybe over kill here but just a added measure. I think you're missing the fact that the electrical code, in addition to requiring that the lightning arrester system is connected to the system ground, also requires that metallic plumbing must be connected to the system ground. You don't have a choice. If you _have_ to be in the tub when lightning strikes, your survival rate is likely to be much higher if the plumbing is grounded. Otherwise, you're part of a large floating antenna (large arrays of heavy copper (which is what a plumbing system _is_) is quite attractive to lightning). -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. This is Turtle. If you read what he said and that he was going into the house and tie the antena to the plumbing system and not to the electrical system ground. he will be depending on the lightening strick to travel through the plumbing and then on to the meter pan ground or electrical grounding system. You do not direct the lightening strick to travel through the plumbing first and then to the electrical grounding system. this is why i ask him does he feel luck go for it. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.611 / Virus Database: 391 - Release Date: 3/3/2004 |
#23
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Antenna Grounding
TURTLE wrote: "John" wrote in message om... Im new to this and know this subject has been discussed in the past. I have tried reading previous posts, but am still confused on the subject. I want to put up a tv antenna. I plan on attaching the mast to my facia. Radio shack sells cable with the ground wire attached, which I plan on running into the house and grounding to a cold water pipe. The antenna will be mounted on the opposite side as my house ground. Will this be enough? I really dont want wires running all over the side/roof of my house.Also wil this also ground the mast or does that need grounded to? Thanks John This is Turtle. just a thought here. Do you really want a 30 foot rod up in the air that has a wire leeding direct to your bath tub and when or if lightening ever stricks it. You are in the direct path of 10,000 volts of electricity. So is true with every plumbing fixiture in your home will be in the direct path of 10,000 volts. I would not want to hook up my bath tub to a 30 foot lightening rod in the air. Now if you feel luck , well go for it. TURTLE --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.611 / Virus Database: 391 - Release Date: 3/4/2004 And have a fireproof house. When that wire leading through the walls lights up it will probably cause a fire. Of course if you're in the bath tub that may not be a big deal. |
#25
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Antenna Grounding
however, not bonding the antenna ground rod to the
electric power grounding system is a big mistake. But not as big as just bonding it to a water pipe! You guys have me really confused. Im getting ready to install an outside TV antenna....and now am not sure how to ground it. So.... if it is best to ground it to a driven ground rod.....as WELL as ground to the home electrical system.... how in fact does one ground it to the home system? Do you run a wire back to the grounding strip inside the service panel? |
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#27
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Antenna Grounding
The NEC
solution is to bond _all_ grounding systems of different systems together (electric power, TV antenna, cable TV, phone, etc.) so that they all come up to the _same_ potential during a strike. No potential difference between systems, no destructive current flow. OK So..... I should ground the TV antenna direct to a rod driven into the earth.... BUTALSO run a wire back to electrical ground of the service panel? |
#28
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Antenna Grounding
"PJx" wrote in message ... Here is some good info: http://www.orlandodigital.tv/Lightning.htm If you feel you need to tie it in to other grounds, I'd run a bare copper wire, buried around the outside of your foundation to tie in with the copper rod used for your electrical ground. Do NOT, under any circumstance, ever run a grounding wire of any type from your mast to the inside your house. Pj That website is crap. I like how they use the word "ideally" so casually. Here's what they are _really_ saying: "We'll attach the TV antenna ground to the electric power ground _IF_ it is readily available, otherwise, we're gonna screw you 'cause you are a clueless homeowner and you don't know any better." "We could care less that _not_ connecting the TV antenna to the electric power grounding system presents a possible shock and fire hazard as long as our installers are in and out of there in one half hour or less." Unfortunately, people who sell and install TV, cable, satellite, etc. are the LAST people you want to ask about proper grounding of same.....especially if the installation is "free". If the electric power grounding system is _readily_ available to them, they will use it. If not, they will drive a ground rod, not connect it to the electric power grounding system and call it a done deal. They will connect to an outside water spigot if they can find one. Properly grounding a TV antennna, cable TV, satellite, or whatever can easily turn into an _all_ day_ job_, and they don't want anything to "kill the sale." I find it interesting that these same people will also have all kinds of surge and lightning protection equipment to sell you after you call them saying that your TV was blown out. If you want to read what electrical industry profesionals, who have no financial interest, have to say about the matter, try this: http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=grounding/unformatted/satellite&type=u&title=Satellite%20Dish%20(1-12-2K) |
#29
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Antenna Grounding
wrote in message ... The NEC solution is to bond _all_ grounding systems of different systems together (electric power, TV antenna, cable TV, phone, etc.) so that they all come up to the _same_ potential during a strike. No potential difference between systems, no destructive current flow. OK So..... I should ground the TV antenna direct to a rod driven into the earth.... BUTALSO run a wire back to electrical ground of the service panel? Yes. The antenna lead-in should connect to an antenna discharge unit close to where the it enters the house. A minimum #10 should be ran from the mast (straight line-of-sight), then pass through the grounding lug on the discharge unit, then on to the ground rod. That ground rod should then be bonded (minimum #6) to the electric power grounding system. Best to keep that bonding wire outside the house if possible. You can connect to anywhere on the electric power grounding electrode system. Usually an electric service will have a bare #4 (or so) coming out of the meter or the electric panel going to a ground rod. You can split bolt to that. What ever you do, _don't_ cut that main power grounding electrode wire to make the splice. I prefer to use #4 bare for the entire install because it doesn't need to be protected. If you do it right, you can run it from the electric service grounding electrode conductor (GEC), through the acorn on the antenna ground rod, through the lug on the discharge unit (make sure the lug will accommodate a #4 wire before you buy it), and on to the mast without any slices. Burying the bare #4 will also improve your overall electric system ground. Copper prices are going up so be prepared for sticker shock. |
#30
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Antenna Grounding
According to volts500 :
"PJx" wrote in message ... Here is some good info: http://www.orlandodigital.tv/Lightning.htm That website is crap. I like how they use the word "ideally" so casually. Are you looking at the same web page? That web page doesn't use the word "ideally" at all. Here's what they are _really_ saying: "We'll attach the TV antenna ground to the electric power ground _IF_ it is readily available, otherwise, we're gonna screw you 'cause you are a clueless homeowner and you don't know any better." I don't see anything about them attaching or doing anything. It's just a informational page on the subject. Says nothing about what they actually do. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
#31
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Antenna Grounding
YOu guys have been a world of help and I apprecieat all your
suggestions. Id just like a clarification. I was planning on using black coated #6 wire running from the antenna and mask to the grounding rod (for astetic reasons) but was told that a strike might cause the black coating to catch fire. So my question(s) is, if I run a bare copper wire and plastic strap it to the the rg6 coming down the side of the houes: 1) if there is a strike,will it ment the RG6 covering and 2) if the bare copper wire is touching my gutter,facia and siding wont that stuff catch fire as well? How would you run the wires from the antenna to the ground? Thanks agin John |
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Antenna Grounding
Sorry forgot to ask, if Im grounding the mast do I need to also ground
the antenna or vise a versa? Thanks John |
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Antenna Grounding
"John" wrote in message om... Thanks you all for your suggestions. I was planning on putting a seperate ground(8'rod) just below where the cable comes into the house and using a grounding block for that cable. The problem is that there is no way of connecting this ground to my main house ground with out running a bare wire 50ft accross my house or yd. The wife would not put up with that. An alternative would be to install the antenna on the same side of the house as the electric service, then run the TV lead-in across the basement or attic to where it needs to be. The other thing is to ground the mast I use a bare #6 and run that down the house to the ground? I might be able to get a coated wire and use that, but a bare wire would be pretty unsightly. Paint it. Thanks again for all the responses John |
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Antenna Grounding
My masts are metal and my antenna is metal and they are connected
together electrically as well as mechanically. If yours is not, then test it to see if the signal is affected by the grounding. Would it NOT be a good idea to get a TV mast that is made of say fiberglass? Im going to install an outside TV antenna soon and thought it a good idea to use a mast made of some plastic or composite material so that it had some "flex" to it to handle wind loads. Is it better to use a mast made of metal tho? maybe better in some "e;ectrical" way? |
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Antenna Grounding
Be careful here. The factory specs generally are based on metal
masts. And everything is usually grounded except the 'active' element that feeds the amp. It may work though. Ahh.....OK..... I didn't know that! |
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