I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water pressure
tank.

There's no bladder, and I empty it just by opening the drain and letting
the water glug out, which takes about 24 hours after it falls to zero
net pressure.

Putting a twisty-tie end in the faucet sped that up to about 6 hours,
by shaping the glugs to more efficient large ones.

The new way, a drill pump sucking the water out, shortened it to a
half hour. On the other hand, you had to be present to do it.

After it goes to glugs, pump as much water out as you can (about a
minute of pumping); then undo the hose and let a huge suck of air
pull into the tank; then repeat the drill pumping. That makes it
drain in about half-gallon glugs, rather than dribbles.

So anyway, that idea worked, more or less. I have to do it once a year,
not a real problem.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

If you have an air compressor or portable air tank, it is very simple. Just
turn off the power to the pump, open a tap somewhere higher than the
pressure tank and pump air in until it starts to blow out the tap. The air
has now pushed all the water out of the tank.

Close the tap and restore power to the pump. When it clicks off, you're
good to go.

The whole process only takes a few minutes.

You may get some bubbles in the water for a while until the tank equalizes.

John

"Ron Hardin" wrote in message
...
I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water pressure
tank.

There's no bladder, and I empty it just by opening the drain and letting
the water glug out, which takes about 24 hours after it falls to zero
net pressure.

Putting a twisty-tie end in the faucet sped that up to about 6 hours,
by shaping the glugs to more efficient large ones.

The new way, a drill pump sucking the water out, shortened it to a
half hour. On the other hand, you had to be present to do it.

After it goes to glugs, pump as much water out as you can (about a
minute of pumping); then undo the hose and let a huge suck of air
pull into the tank; then repeat the drill pumping. That makes it
drain in about half-gallon glugs, rather than dribbles.

So anyway, that idea worked, more or less. I have to do it once a year,
not a real problem.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Ok, I guess I'll show my Ignorance, I'm new at all this (married last
spring to a widow who also knows little about our house)
I didn't know that draining the pressure tank was something that needed
doing, let alone how to do it.. Why does it need draining? And I
wonder how many other things around here need doing as "preventative
maintenance".
Is there some kind of "checklist" of things that need attention, or a book?
I'm not being silly, I've lived my whole life as a renter.... ;-)
--
Mikey Luvs Ya!!
http://personalpages.tds.net/~kyakmike/

"Ron Hardin" wrote in message
...
I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water
pressure
tank.

There's no bladder, and I empty it just by opening the drain
and letting
the water glug out, which takes about 24 hours after it falls
to zero
net pressure.

Putting a twisty-tie end in the faucet sped that up to about 6
hours,
by shaping the glugs to more efficient large ones.

The new way, a drill pump sucking the water out, shortened it
to a
half hour. On the other hand, you had to be present to do it.

After it goes to glugs, pump as much water out as you can
(about a
minute of pumping); then undo the hose and let a huge suck of
air
pull into the tank; then repeat the drill pumping. That makes
it
drain in about half-gallon glugs, rather than dribbles.

Is there a fitting on this tank to pressurize it? If so, just
open the drain and blow air in. Then shut the drain off and
pressurize it. If it is appropriately pressurized, the pump will
cycle less.

Bob

Michael Moss wrote:

Ok, I guess I'll show my Ignorance, I'm new at all this (married last
spring to a widow who also knows little about our house)
I didn't know that draining the pressure tank was something that needed
doing, let alone how to do it.. Why does it need draining? And I
wonder how many other things around here need doing as "preventative
maintenance".
Is there some kind of "checklist" of things that need attention, or a book?
I'm not being silly, I've lived my whole life as a renter.... ;-)
--
Mikey Luvs Ya!!
http://personalpages.tds.net/~kyakmike/

If there's no bladder over the water (old style pressure tank, or an old
new style one with a broken bladder), the water absorbs the air, and eventually
the tank is nearly filled with water. So the pump has to cycle on and off
a whole lot in short bursts to keep the pressure within range.

If you had more air in there, it would run longer but fewer times (desireable).

One way to restore the air is drain the tank dry and then let it refill.

I do it about once a year.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

In article , Ron Hardin wrote:
I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water pressure
tank.

OK, here's a new way:

Step 1. Go to an auto parts store, and buy a valve core extractor. Shouldn't
cost more than a couple of bucks. Open the drain valve, and unscrew the valve
core from the air fitting. Then watch the water come gushing out. The whole
tank will drain in a few minutes.

I have to do it once a year, not a real problem.

Optional Step 2. When the tank is drained, disconnect it, and replace it with
a captive-air tank so you won't have to keep doing this. :-)

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Why not just replace the old tank with a new one with a bladder. I did that
a couple of years ago. It only cost me about $100, it was easy to install,
it takes up less space and the water is cleaner. (There was rust in the old
tank.)
ds

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
In article , Ron Hardin
wrote:
I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water pressure
tank.

OK, here's a new way:

Step 1. Go to an auto parts store, and buy a valve core extractor.
Shouldn't
cost more than a couple of bucks. Open the drain valve, and unscrew the
valve
core from the air fitting. Then watch the water come gushing out. The
whole
tank will drain in a few minutes.

I have to do it once a year, not a real problem.

Optional Step 2. When the tank is drained, disconnect it, and replace it
with
a captive-air tank so you won't have to keep doing this. :-)

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

And yet another suggestion. If there is no air fitting on the tank, just
poke a piece of vinyl tubing up thru the drain (remove the valve maybe?) to
let air in. It will drain famously. Same concept as the bit of wire,but
MUCH more effective


"Dick Smyth" wrote in message
...
Why not just replace the old tank with a new one with a bladder. I did
that
a couple of years ago. It only cost me about $100, it was easy to install,
it takes up less space and the water is cleaner. (There was rust in the
old
tank.)
ds

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
In article , Ron Hardin
wrote:
I got to try a new way of emptying a large waterlogged water pressure
tank.

OK, here's a new way:

Step 1. Go to an auto parts store, and buy a valve core extractor.
Shouldn't
cost more than a couple of bucks. Open the drain valve, and unscrew the
valve
core from the air fitting. Then watch the water come gushing out. The
whole
tank will drain in a few minutes.

I have to do it once a year, not a real problem.

Optional Step 2. When the tank is drained, disconnect it, and replace it
with
a captive-air tank so you won't have to keep doing this. :-)

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?