I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits & mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be "replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill

Bill wrote:
I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits & mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be "replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Concealing a termite infestation would be less than nice, if there is a
chance it is active. Leave the drywall alone, have a termite inspection
and spend the money to at least treat any that are found. Likely that
the blistered drywall is around door or window, and termites are in
structural wood. They don't come to the surface, as they don't like
daylight. They do the same thing with wood - eat to within the
thickness of paper from the outside of the wood, the point at which
appearance of the wood can change but they haven't come through to the
surface. How long since your last termite inspection? What kind were they?

We have old damage in our condo - inside and out. Drywood termites x2
before we lived here. Found subterranean termites in exterior wood
partition that wasn't in contact with other wood structure - one section
of a 1x12, about a foot long, had nothing left of it but the paint.
Termites don't eat through paint, which is a good hint about prevention.

As I clearly said, the house is free of termites. I'm not talking about
"concealing" anything. Termites are endemic to this area and the holes
drilled in the basement floor & walls, garage slab etc for treatment are
plainly visible. My question concerns the best manner for repairing the
drywall damage.


wrote in message
...


Bill wrote:
I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off
the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits &
mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of
one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
"replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Concealing a termite infestation would be less than nice, if there is a
chance it is active. Leave the drywall alone, have a termite inspection
and spend the money to at least treat any that are found. Likely that
the blistered drywall is around door or window, and termites are in
structural wood. They don't come to the surface, as they don't like
daylight. They do the same thing with wood - eat to within the
thickness of paper from the outside of the wood, the point at which
appearance of the wood can change but they haven't come through to the
surface. How long since your last termite inspection? What kind were
they?

We have old damage in our condo - inside and out. Drywood termites x2
before we lived here. Found subterranean termites in exterior wood
partition that wasn't in contact with other wood structure - one section
of a 1x12, about a foot long, had nothing left of it but the paint.
Termites don't eat through paint, which is a good hint about prevention.

Bill wrote:
As I clearly said, the house is free of termites. I'm not talking about
"concealing" anything. Termites are endemic to this area and the holes
drilled in the basement floor & walls, garage slab etc for treatment are
plainly visible. My question concerns the best manner for repairing the
drywall damage.

It wasn't clear to me ) Free, as in professional inspection with no
bugs found? Good! How large an area, by the way? Probably should
remove the paint (all that is left) over the damaged area, spackle,
prime, paint.

The house is inspected annually by Orkin & I pay them ~$200/year for
continued insurance, which is transferable. The total area damaged is
probably 18 inches square, in 5-6 locations inside an area about 4x8 feet.
Spackle/prime/paint was what I had in mind, I was just wondering if joint
compound was the best for this or if I should use something like one of the
"plastic-DAP" type products. Basically were talking about a depth
equivalent of the thickness of the paint & drywall paper coating.


wrote in message
...


Bill wrote:
As I clearly said, the house is free of termites. I'm not talking about
"concealing" anything. Termites are endemic to this area and the holes
drilled in the basement floor & walls, garage slab etc for treatment are
plainly visible. My question concerns the best manner for repairing the
drywall damage.

It wasn't clear to me ) Free, as in professional inspection with no
bugs found? Good! How large an area, by the way? Probably should
remove the paint (all that is left) over the damaged area, spackle,
prime, paint.

Bill wrote:

The house is inspected annually by Orkin & I pay them ~$200/year for
continued insurance, which is transferable. The total area damaged is
probably 18 inches square, in 5-6 locations inside an area about 4x8 feet.
Spackle/prime/paint was what I had in mind, I was just wondering if joint
compound was the best for this or if I should use something like one of the
"plastic-DAP" type products. Basically were talking about a depth
equivalent of the thickness of the paint & drywall paper coating.

wrote in message
...


Bill wrote:
As I clearly said, the house is free of termites. I'm not talking about
"concealing" anything. Termites are endemic to this area and the holes
drilled in the basement floor & walls, garage slab etc for treatment are
plainly visible. My question concerns the best manner for repairing the
drywall damage.

It wasn't clear to me ) Free, as in professional inspection with no
bugs found? Good! How large an area, by the way? Probably should
remove the paint (all that is left) over the damaged area, spackle,
prime, paint.

gee how about the wooden structure behind the sheetrock??? was that also
replaced???? with their insurance policy... dont let them just spray for
the bugs if you got a policy with them......

If the sheetrock is gone, so is the wood framing behind it. Your
exterminater/insurer did not look because he did not want to fix the
framing his contract is supposed to cover. Rip off some of the
sheetrock and check for framing damage. And besides, shouldn't the
contract cover the repair anyway??



"Bill" wrote in message
...
I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper
off the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw.
My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose
bits & mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size
of one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
"replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint
compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits & mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be "replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
mud and sand everything even.

AJS

I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation when you
do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have reasons
know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns) for not
putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have to PAY
at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to mention it's
UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.

And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.

Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers all night
long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might actually have
a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation (being as he
IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding constructively
to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.

Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.

Bill


"AJScott" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off
the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits &
mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of
one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
"replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
mud and sand everything even.

AJS

On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 22:47:50 -0500, Bill wrote:

I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation when you
do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have reasons
know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns) for not
putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have to PAY
at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to mention it's
UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.

And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.

Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers all night
long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might actually have
a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation (being as he
IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding constructively
to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.

Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.

Bill


The advice you got, whether you like it or not, was worth what you paid
for it.

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation when you
do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have reasons
know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns) for not
putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have to PAY
at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to mention it's
UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.

Given your attitude, it's not surprising that you apparently have no
friends with an actual van, SUV, or car with some roof-lash bungee cord
to cart your ass down to Home Depot and help you drag a $4 sheet of rock
up or down a flight of your stairs. OK, 2 sheets -- you'll just have an
extra one on hand for more termites or mice or whatever occasional
vermin-related problem may riase its ugly head in the future. Maybe if
you sprung a few extra bucks for a six pack and a 6-incher from Subway,
you wouldn't have these transportation/materials handling difficulties.

And BTW, sorry for my initial insensitivity toward your other "health
concerns," which appears to be an apparent allergic reation to such
simple functions as handling drywall screws and an electric drill with
the attachment bit that makes those nifty dimples into the rock.


And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.

Yeah sure. Termites that eat gypsum board paper but leave the supporting
wood untouched. I suggest you contact National Geographic, the Orkin
Insitute, and the folks at the Nobel Institute immediately. I sense some
major grant money in your future.

BTW, we watch WWF wrestling around here. NASCAR is for those of us who
graduated college and vo-tech. Get it right, willya?


Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers all night
long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might actually have
a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation (being as he
IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding constructively
to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.

Well, duh -- what the **** do you expect for free?

But there almost certainly are guys around here who know whether "mud is
better than DAP is better than Compound X," but they're surely not
likely to tell you now, what with NASCAR season and everything. However,
chances are they'd tell you to just replace the damn sheet of rock and
be done with it to begin with.


Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.

Bon voyage. Let us know whether that raft made of bamboo shoots and
coconut shells got you off the island, too.


AJS



"AJScott" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off
the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits &
mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of
one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
"replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
mud and sand everything even.

AJS

maybe you can just cut out the damaged portion and replace it?
that way you don't need to bring home the whole sheet, you can cut the sheet
in half and that will fit in the car

I've seen lots of termite damage. If indeed your sheetrock was the
only material damaged your situation is, in my experience, unique.

Bill wrote:
I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation
when you
do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have
reasons
know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns)
for not
putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have
to PAY
at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to
mention it's
UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.

And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.

Didja take down the drywall, inspect the studs, and put it back up? It
would be exceedingly strange for the drywall paper to be damaged and
have no other damage. Your amazement at the nature of the damage
suggests you don't know much about termites. Having ten year old
damage, and seeking repair advice prior to selling suggests you are
inclined to conceal. Forgive us for not "divining" your true motives.


Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers
all night

Not much guessing entailed - seems obvious.

long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might
actually have
a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation
(being as he
IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding
constructively
to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.

Here's an idea - leave the drywall as is and let the buyer know what
they are getting. I sold a house, in need of a roof and a paint job. A
little dingy inside, but well cared for. The house sold quickly and the
price was good. The buyer knew exactly what they were getting, down to
the moldy spot on the bathroom ceiling (caused by a new leak in roof,
which was repaired) and the hairline crack in the dining room wall.


Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.

Don'e let the door hit you......


Bill


"AJScott" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:


I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite

damage.

House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several

areas

have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper off

the

drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw. My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits &

mud

the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of

one

4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be

"replace

the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other

options

be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound, or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
mud and sand everything even.

AJS

All things considered, including your bad back, it's easiest to put on a new
sheet of sheetrock. Split it down the middle before bringing it home, then
mud the extra seam. It *is* easier than making a large messed-up patch look
good.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
I don't know if you're a pisher or not, but like everyone else who's
replied, you're assuming you know the full details of the situation when
you
do not, instead of just responding to my question. Perhaps I have reasons
know only to me (like, I dunno, a BAD BACK or other health concerns) for
not
putting up a new sheet of drywall which, while maybe only costing $4, is
HEAVY. PLUS I got no way to get the goddam thing HOME, so I'd have to PAY
at least $25-$40 for the delivery of that ONE $4 sheet. Not to mention
it's
UNNECESSARY considering the degree of damage.

And to the other individuals who think they can divine the condition of
2x4's via email, (Jim & Art) you happen to be WRONG. There AREN'T any
structural problems associated with this damage, JUST the DRYWALL. Have
another beer guys & go watch a NASCAR race or something.

Thanks for nothing gentlemen. I guess this is the kind of advice you get
from people who have nothing better to do than 2nd guess strangers all
night
long on the internet, instead of simply assuming the IP might actually
have
a better 1st hand grasp of the nature & extent of the situation (being as
he
IS the only one actually THERE and all) and just responding constructively
to his inquiry. Don't happen to know if mud is better than DAP is better
than Compound X in this situation? Here's an idea, DON'T SAY ANYTHING.

Now you guys can go back and forth about this for the next couple days
amongst yourselves, I'm deleting the NG from my list.

Bill


"AJScott" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

I have a house I'm preparing to sell which has some minor termite
damage.
House has been treated & bug free for a decade or more, but several
areas
have odd drywall damage wherein the termites actually ate the paper
off
the
drywall & from underneath the paint. Damnedest thing you ever saw.
My
inclination to save time/effort is simply to remove all the loose bits
&
mud
the whole surface level (we're talking about an area about the size of
one
4x8 sheet). I know the consensus on this is probably going to be
"replace
the effected sheetrock", but failing that what might be some other
options
be? If I go with a re-mud, should I just use regular joint compound,
or
might something else be better?

TIA

Bill



Sorry if I seem like I'm being a pisher here, but really ... c'mon --
how much is does a single sheet of new drywall cost? Four bucks? Jeez.
Besides, it'll probably take far less time to replace the sheet than to
mud and sand everything even.

AJS