J J:

JJ we have a honeywell programmable thermostat for a water-based heating
JJ system.
snip
JJ what on earth could possibly make this thermostat turn the heating on when
JJ it's set at 71 and the temp reads 73?

It's going to become pretty obvious I don't know a thing about water-
based heating systems but I'll say it anyway. Any possibility it's
the wrong type of thermostat or it's set to 'cool' instead of 'heat'?

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* All must be held accountable, but don't quote me on that.
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?

--


Remove "zz" from e-mail address to direct reply.



"barry martin" wrote in message
news:1609755909.6110.77.2326292.1433022511.RIMEGat ...
J J:

JJ we have a honeywell programmable thermostat for a water-based heating
JJ system.
snip
JJ what on earth could possibly make this thermostat turn the heating on
when
JJ it's set at 71 and the temp reads 73?

It's going to become pretty obvious I don't know a thing about water-
based heating systems but I'll say it anyway. Any possibility it's
the wrong type of thermostat or it's set to 'cool' instead of 'heat'?

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* All must be held accountable, but don't quote me on that.
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

I don't know about most, but that is my experience with
mechanical thermostats and it makes for a miserable house.
OTOH, my Honeywell digital never varies more than 1 degree
when it is stabilized and running automatically. This
thermostat was a huge improvement from the mechanical one.
OTOH, if you manually boost the temp, it can take sometime
before the furnace comes on and the thermostat manual
indicate that is normal. If it doesn't come on immediately
I just boost the temperature up another 3 or so degrees and
as soon as it starts I move the temp down to where I wanted
it. Again, after it stabilizes (goes through one on cycle),
it won't vary by more than one degree.

Steve Stone wrote:

Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?

--

Remove "zz" from e-mail address to direct reply.

"barry martin" wrote in message
news:1609755909.6110.77.2326292.1433022511.RIMEGat ...
J J:

JJ we have a honeywell programmable thermostat for a water-based heating
JJ system.
snip
JJ what on earth could possibly make this thermostat turn the heating on
when
JJ it's set at 71 and the temp reads 73?

It's going to become pretty obvious I don't know a thing about water-
based heating systems but I'll say it anyway. Any possibility it's
the wrong type of thermostat or it's set to 'cool' instead of 'heat'?

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* All must be held accountable, but don't quote me on that.
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...
Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?


They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat, can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.

Personally, the 1F deadband on the digitals is a misleading thing. Some have
been suckered into the hype, that its better, but depending on the system,
it can actually be more than that. You figure in the built in time delay on
some, (up to 5 min) and then, if its a heat pump for example, the 5 min
delay on the defrost board for start, and some homes can drop a couple more
degrees on a harsh day in that time..so....its cycled and thrown the
adaptive recovery into a tizzy.



--


Remove "zz" from e-mail address to direct reply.



"barry martin" wrote in message
news:1609755909.6110.77.2326292.1433022511.RIMEGat ...
J J:

JJ we have a honeywell programmable thermostat for a water-based
heating
JJ system.
snip
JJ what on earth could possibly make this thermostat turn the heating
on
when
JJ it's set at 71 and the temp reads 73?

It's going to become pretty obvious I don't know a thing about water-
based heating systems but I'll say it anyway. Any possibility it's
the wrong type of thermostat or it's set to 'cool' instead of 'heat'?

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* All must be held accountable, but don't quote me on that.
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *

CBHvac wrote:

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...
Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?

They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat, can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.

Personally, the 1F deadband on the digitals is a misleading thing. Some have
been suckered into the hype, that its better, but depending on the system,
it can actually be more than that. You figure in the built in time delay on
some, (up to 5 min) and then, if its a heat pump for example, the 5 min
delay on the defrost board for start, and some homes can drop a couple more
degrees on a harsh day in that time..so....its cycled and thrown the
adaptive recovery into a tizzy.


--


Remove "zz" from e-mail address to direct reply.



"barry martin" wrote in message
news:1609755909.6110.77.2326292.1433022511.RIMEGat ...
J J:

JJ we have a honeywell programmable thermostat for a water-based
heating
JJ system.
snip
JJ what on earth could possibly make this thermostat turn the heating
on
when
JJ it's set at 71 and the temp reads 73?

It's going to become pretty obvious I don't know a thing about water-
based heating systems but I'll say it anyway. Any possibility it's
the wrong type of thermostat or it's set to 'cool' instead of 'heat'?

-
¯ barry.martinþATþthesafebbs.zeppole.com ®

* All must be held accountable, but don't quote me on that.
---
þ RoseReader 2.52á P003186
þ The Safe BBS þ Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
---
þ RIMEGate(tm)/RGXMod V1.13 at BBSWORLD *



I bought our digital to control an electric furnace and it
has now controlled our gas furnace for the past 2 years. It
facinated me, so I've watched it closely and often hung both
regular and other digital thermometer right next to it to
check temperatures. As I said in an earlier post, it
doesn't vary more than a degree and the difference in
comfort, both for heat and cooling is amazing. May be one
of a kind , but that's my experience.

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003, CBHvac wrote:

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...
Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?

They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat, can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.

The RobertShaw thermostat that came with my house was +-1 (2 degree F
spread) at best, and usually overshot 1-2. It had no anticipator setting,
just gas/electric switch.

I changed to Honeywell CT3500 (should have gotten CT3600) with 1 degree
spread, and by comparing air and wall termperature learns to
electronically anticipate temperature rise to shut off before it reaches
setting if necessary (since steam radiators retain heat), and ramps up
from setback instead of all at once. It only rarely overshoots slightly
if the weather suddenly turns very mild. The only reason I would have
liked the CT3600 is because it logs total run time to tell most effective
setback.

I don't know if the original poster gave a model number or whether it was
wired or set properly for their hydronic system. But my Honeywell
electronic works great for single-pipe steam, although, I my old home has
plenty of thermal mass (drywall over plaster), so temperature changes are
never sudden.

--
David Efflandt - All spam ignored http://www.de-srv.com/
http://www.autox.chicago.il.us/ http://www.berniesfloral.net/

I too, have one of the Honeywells. I can't seem to find the
model number on the unit, but I remember that it was something
like the previous poster's 3500 or 3600. It has the "electronic
anticipation" and has worked extremely well with my gas furnace.
I have also checked it with both termocouples and traditional
mercury thermometers and found it to be right on. Occationally,
and very occationally at that, I do get an anticipator failure.
By this I mean that the furnace fires up and then, before the
blower comes on, it shuts down. This seems to be related to the
temperature and temperature changes. As I said, it only happens
extremely rarely. BTW, one of those "smart" furnace guys came
into my house and said "the Honeywell is junk." He's junk.
This is why I do most of my own rebuilding/repair. BTW, I once
bought a digital thermostat that advertised a +/- 1/2 degree
accuracy. It had no anticipator. It, combined with the gas
furnace, overshot by 6 or 8 degrees. I returned it right away.
It had a bunch of big C batteries in it. BTW, the Honeywell
batteries (I think they're AAs) last for years. I don't know
when I last changed them and they are still going strong. Great
Product!

David Efflandt wrote:
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003, CBHvac wrote:

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...

Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in when
they turn off or on ?

They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat, can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.


The RobertShaw thermostat that came with my house was +-1 (2 degree F
spread) at best, and usually overshot 1-2. It had no anticipator setting,
just gas/electric switch.

I changed to Honeywell CT3500 (should have gotten CT3600) with 1 degree
spread, and by comparing air and wall termperature learns to
electronically anticipate temperature rise to shut off before it reaches
setting if necessary (since steam radiators retain heat), and ramps up
from setback instead of all at once. It only rarely overshoots slightly
if the weather suddenly turns very mild. The only reason I would have
liked the CT3600 is because it logs total run time to tell most effective
setback.

I don't know if the original poster gave a model number or whether it was
wired or set properly for their hydronic system. But my Honeywell
electronic works great for single-pipe steam, although, I my old home has
plenty of thermal mass (drywall over plaster), so temperature changes are
never sudden.

I hate to "reply" to my own post, but I just remembered some
additional info. I originally bought a 3200, which has an
electronic switch (triac) to turn on the gas valve. Well, on my
old furnace (1970 model) it would not let the gas valve close
completely due to some minute leakage of the switch device. On
warmer days, where little heat was required, I noticed a very
slight smell of gas right in front of the burners. Honeywell
tech people responded that this can sometimes happen and sent me
a new model that has a relay in it. It was a 3400 (I just
pulled off the front to check) which solved the problem and is
still working perfectly. BTW, the old 3200 is still being used
for AC as a 2nd thermostat for pseudo zone control.

Art Todesco wrote:

I too, have one of the Honeywells. I can't seem to find the model
number on the unit, but I remember that it was something like the
previous poster's 3500 or 3600. It has the "electronic anticipation"
and has worked extremely well with my gas furnace. I have also checked
it with both termocouples and traditional mercury thermometers and found
it to be right on. Occationally, and very occationally at that, I do
get an anticipator failure. By this I mean that the furnace fires up
and then, before the blower comes on, it shuts down. This seems to be
related to the temperature and temperature changes. As I said, it only
happens extremely rarely. BTW, one of those "smart" furnace guys came
into my house and said "the Honeywell is junk." He's junk. This is why
I do most of my own rebuilding/repair. BTW, I once bought a digital
thermostat that advertised a +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It had no
anticipator. It, combined with the gas furnace, overshot by 6 or 8
degrees. I returned it right away. It had a bunch of big C batteries
in it. BTW, the Honeywell batteries (I think they're AAs) last for
years. I don't know when I last changed them and they are still going
strong. Great Product!

David Efflandt wrote:

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003, CBHvac wrote:

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...

Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in
when
they turn off or on ?


They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat,
can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel
the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.



The RobertShaw thermostat that came with my house was +-1 (2 degree F
spread) at best, and usually overshot 1-2. It had no anticipator
setting,
just gas/electric switch.

I changed to Honeywell CT3500 (should have gotten CT3600) with 1 degree
spread, and by comparing air and wall termperature learns to
electronically anticipate temperature rise to shut off before it reaches
setting if necessary (since steam radiators retain heat), and ramps up
from setback instead of all at once. It only rarely overshoots slightly
if the weather suddenly turns very mild. The only reason I would have
liked the CT3600 is because it logs total run time to tell most effective
setback.

I don't know if the original poster gave a model number or whether it was
wired or set properly for their hydronic system. But my Honeywell
electronic works great for single-pipe steam, although, I my old home has
plenty of thermal mass (drywall over plaster), so temperature changes
are never sudden.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
news:_Ypvb.267613$Fm2.280381@attbi_s04...
I hate to "reply" to my own post, but I just remembered some
additional info. I originally bought a 3200, which has an
electronic switch (triac) to turn on the gas valve. Well, on my
old furnace (1970 model) it would not let the gas valve close
completely due to some minute leakage of the switch device. On
warmer days, where little heat was required, I noticed a very
slight smell of gas right in front of the burners. Honeywell
tech people responded that this can sometimes happen and sent me
a new model that has a relay in it. It was a 3400 (I just
pulled off the front to check) which solved the problem and is
still working perfectly. BTW, the old 3200 is still being used
for AC as a 2nd thermostat for pseudo zone control.

And if you had talked to someone at Honeywell that knew what he was doing,
he could have sent you for free the resistor that should have been in the
box to start with...



Art Todesco wrote:

I too, have one of the Honeywells. I can't seem to find the model
number on the unit, but I remember that it was something like the
previous poster's 3500 or 3600. It has the "electronic anticipation"
and has worked extremely well with my gas furnace. I have also checked
it with both termocouples and traditional mercury thermometers and found
it to be right on. Occationally, and very occationally at that, I do
get an anticipator failure. By this I mean that the furnace fires up
and then, before the blower comes on, it shuts down. This seems to be
related to the temperature and temperature changes. As I said, it only
happens extremely rarely. BTW, one of those "smart" furnace guys came
into my house and said "the Honeywell is junk." He's junk. This is why
I do most of my own rebuilding/repair. BTW, I once bought a digital
thermostat that advertised a +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It had no
anticipator. It, combined with the gas furnace, overshot by 6 or 8
degrees. I returned it right away. It had a bunch of big C batteries
in it. BTW, the Honeywell batteries (I think they're AAs) last for
years. I don't know when I last changed them and they are still going
strong. Great Product!

David Efflandt wrote:

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003, CBHvac wrote:

"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...

Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in
when
they turn off or on ?


They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat,
can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel
the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.



The RobertShaw thermostat that came with my house was +-1 (2 degree F
spread) at best, and usually overshot 1-2. It had no anticipator
setting,
just gas/electric switch.

I changed to Honeywell CT3500 (should have gotten CT3600) with 1 degree
spread, and by comparing air and wall termperature learns to
electronically anticipate temperature rise to shut off before it
reaches
setting if necessary (since steam radiators retain heat), and ramps up
from setback instead of all at once. It only rarely overshoots
slightly
if the weather suddenly turns very mild. The only reason I would have
liked the CT3600 is because it logs total run time to tell most
effective
setback.

I don't know if the original poster gave a model number or whether it
was
wired or set properly for their hydronic system. But my Honeywell
electronic works great for single-pipe steam, although, I my old home h
as
plenty of thermal mass (drywall over plaster), so temperature changes
are never sudden.

Really. How is the resistor connected and what is it supposed
to do? Is it just a shunt to divert the leakage current? I
guess it was just easier to send me a whole new unit. BTW, I
don't recall there being any resistor in the original box ...
but that was a long time ago.

CBHvac wrote:
"Art Todesco" wrote in message
news:_Ypvb.267613$Fm2.280381@attbi_s04...

I hate to "reply" to my own post, but I just remembered some
additional info. I originally bought a 3200, which has an
electronic switch (triac) to turn on the gas valve. Well, on my
old furnace (1970 model) it would not let the gas valve close
completely due to some minute leakage of the switch device. On
warmer days, where little heat was required, I noticed a very
slight smell of gas right in front of the burners. Honeywell
tech people responded that this can sometimes happen and sent me
a new model that has a relay in it. It was a 3400 (I just
pulled off the front to check) which solved the problem and is
still working perfectly. BTW, the old 3200 is still being used
for AC as a 2nd thermostat for pseudo zone control.


And if you had talked to someone at Honeywell that knew what he was doing,
he could have sent you for free the resistor that should have been in the
box to start with...



Art Todesco wrote:


I too, have one of the Honeywells. I can't seem to find the model
number on the unit, but I remember that it was something like the
previous poster's 3500 or 3600. It has the "electronic anticipation"
and has worked extremely well with my gas furnace. I have also checked
it with both termocouples and traditional mercury thermometers and found
it to be right on. Occationally, and very occationally at that, I do
get an anticipator failure. By this I mean that the furnace fires up
and then, before the blower comes on, it shuts down. This seems to be
related to the temperature and temperature changes. As I said, it only
happens extremely rarely. BTW, one of those "smart" furnace guys came
into my house and said "the Honeywell is junk." He's junk. This is why
I do most of my own rebuilding/repair. BTW, I once bought a digital
thermostat that advertised a +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It had no
anticipator. It, combined with the gas furnace, overshot by 6 or 8
degrees. I returned it right away. It had a bunch of big C batteries
in it. BTW, the Honeywell batteries (I think they're AAs) last for
years. I don't know when I last changed them and they are still going
strong. Great Product!

David Efflandt wrote:


On Thu, 20 Nov 2003, CBHvac wrote:


"Steve Stone" wrote in message
...


Don't most stats have a plus or minus 3 degrees or so in latitude in
when
they turn off or on ?


They do.
There is a reason for this, and a good Honeywell mercury switch stat,
can be
better than a Chronotherm model when it comes to comfort.
Its called a dead band, and since MOST people can not actually feel
the 3F
difference in temps, you never know.



The RobertShaw thermostat that came with my house was +-1 (2 degree F
spread) at best, and usually overshot 1-2. It had no anticipator
setting,
just gas/electric switch.

I changed to Honeywell CT3500 (should have gotten CT3600) with 1 degree
spread, and by comparing air and wall termperature learns to
electronically anticipate temperature rise to shut off before it

reaches

setting if necessary (since steam radiators retain heat), and ramps up
from setback instead of all at once. It only rarely overshoots

slightly

if the weather suddenly turns very mild. The only reason I would have
liked the CT3600 is because it logs total run time to tell most

effective

setback.

I don't know if the original poster gave a model number or whether it

was

wired or set properly for their hydronic system. But my Honeywell
electronic works great for single-pipe steam, although, I my old home h

as

plenty of thermal mass (drywall over plaster), so temperature changes
are never sudden.

"Randy Calhoun" wrote in message
...
CBHvac thinking his **** don't stink wrote:



And if you had talked to someone at Honeywell that knew what he was
doing,




And if you had your swollen head outa your ass you'd snip the extra crap
out of your replies.

And merry **** you too...sorry...did you say something?
I think you had your head up Stormys ass when you posted..

If you dont like it, you know how to set filters..and if you dont, perhaps
when you get done reaming Chris out, you can learn about it.

"Randy Calhoun" wrote in message
...
CBHvac wrote:

"Randy Calhoun" wrote in message
...
CBHvac thinking his **** don't stink wrote:



And if you had talked to someone at Honeywell that knew what he was
doing,




And if you had your swollen head outa your ass you'd snip the extra
crap
out of your replies.

And merry **** you too...sorry...did you say something?
I think you had your head up Stormys ass when you posted..

If you dont like it, you know how to set filters..and if you dont,
perhaps
when you get done reaming Chris out, you can learn about it.

Child..

I remember when you first hit the scene here. You gave good advice for
the most part and steered clear of arguments and nonsense. It appears
you relish in it now. Everyone can see ole Stormin Moron is a yutz. So
what? You're no better anymore.

It's one thing to blast a guy for giving stupid or lousy advice, but you
follow this guy around with your nose so far up his ass there's no way
anyone could give him a reaming without going through your ear canal.

Nah...tired of the crybabys like you...
Waaa...you got me all teary eyed...

Deal with it, or dont...it matters to me about as much as if you wake up in
the morning...hint...it doesnt.

(it's a honeywell MagicStat or something like that, BTW. digital
programmable thermostat. it's supposed to be +/- 1 degree from temperature)
well I followed their instructions. I set the metal screws behind the stat
for a hot water boiler (or furnace, same settings)

the set temp doesn't change in the future as someone suggested, it's always
set at 71F but for some reason, in the morning, it shoots up. this morning
it was at 74. in my room I had 26 celcius instead of 22.

CBHvac Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed
in :

Nah...tired of the crybabys like you...
Waaa...you got me all teary eyed...

Deal with it, or dont...it matters to me about as much as if you
wake up in the morning...hint...it doesnt.

After reading a few of his messages, I realized that it's just the
standard garden variety troll, and plonked him... G

Yanno my theories on this...

NOI