Now this has become a quest!!
By now I could have bought a new washer for the time I've spent on this beast.

Swapped hoses, and the water is still slow when switched to HOT.
Step two, I swapped the connectors going to the HOT-COLD coils.
Same thing, water from the suspect port is slow.
Dan O and you are right, that that test would seem to indicate the valve is bad,
and I tend to agree. Yet still not 100% sure about the valve.

That dammed thermistor in the line really makes me wonder if the ETC board can
actually modulate the hot water, not just ON-OFF but actually adjust it. My
knowledge of circuitry and valve operation tells me no-it just snaps on and off
the water flow.
Swapping the coils should have eliminated this possibility.


Any day now I will surrender and buy a new valve, yet the fact I can't repair
it, or at least move the problem to the COLD side bothers me!!

It's a simple device that I've fully disassembled and cleaned. No obstructions
in the valve body...I've swapped the HOT plunger/actuator with the COLD one.
I've swapped the coils from the HOT to the COLD. I've disassembled the plunger
and checked for unobstructed movement.


Thanks for the help,

Joe


On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 06:50:09 GMT, "Mad Mac" wrote:

"Joe" wrote in message
ws.com...
There is a thermistor in the line leading from the valve assy. to the tub.
Is that what you mean?

Yours is slightly different from what I mentioned but basically does the
same job. I don't think I've ever seen that type go bad.

According to the diagram it runs up to a logic board marked ETC-DTC.

Electronic Temperature Control - Detergent Control. Generally reliable.

I measured the thermistor at about 40K ohms.
If I wanted to bypass it, would I disconnect it and leave it open, or
connect
the wires together to send a closed signal to the board?

Connect them together, I think (amazing what years of drink does to the
mem....)

I'd suggest you follow Dan O's advice and reverse the hoses - that should
prove conclusively if it's the valve.