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#1
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true |
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#2
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true |
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#3
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 |
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#4
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford - perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3 liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do the job ONCE for a change. |
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#5
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Which engine do you have? The regulator is a lot more work to remove from the alternator on the vehicle than removing the alternator. Can't remember how it is on a 4 liter - but it is certainly no easier than on the 3.0 The "internal" regulator is bolted to the alternator. It IS available separatgely for repair - and SOME replacement alternators come without the regulator. Standard practice around here is to supply the alternator complete with regulator installed and tested. |
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#6
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Sun, 02 Oct 2016 18:02:04 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote: On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 The regulator is the squarish grey part fastened to the back of the alternator with the 4 little bolts in the picture on the second page. |
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#7
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. |
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#8
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
wrote in message news
 On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford - perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3 liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do the job ONCE for a change. 3.0 |
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#9
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. |
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#10
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
I want to point this out as it may save lots of people big bucks AND inconvenience over time.
I am a field service tech and drive a lot. I used to have alternators fail a lot, perhaps every 2 or 3 3 years... before i went to a preventive maintence program for my vehicles battery by 3 years old i juust replace the vehicles battery, wether it tests good or not...... i hate getting stranded with a dead battery since i went to this my alternators quit failing. only failure was once with bearing failure my theory, batteries at end of life make the alternator work much harder. so a new battery every few years, before it fails saves on alternators. i give my still good just replaced batteries to my best buddy who uses them on a 14 foot blade windmill he built. his dud batteries get traded in, at the time of batttery replacement so no core charge...... batteries are easier to change than alternators |
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#11
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
bob haller
Mon, 03 Oct 2016 12:35:35 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: my theory, batteries at end of life make the alternator work much harder. It's not a theory. You're correct. It happens because a dying battery becomes a black hole for any electrical source connected to it. It does increase the strain on the voltage regulator components as a result, which most of the time, are where the failure itself occurs. It's not that often that a winding inside the alternator goes before the regulator does. Btw, if you've seen the commercials for the tiny lithium (pick a flavor) jump start units for sale, if your battery is nearly completely drained and/or is actually bad, that unit isn't going to be able to start your car right away/if ever. As, it's power is being consumed by the battery first and foremost. The dead battery will have to reach a certain charge point before enough current is available to do anything else. That's why you have to wait a few minutes sometimes when you connect the old fashioned jumper cables to it. I tried to explain this to an associate a few weeks ago when she was showing it to me. She ignored my advice and learned for herself that depending on battery condition, it will not work. She learned the hard way, btw. She wound up late for several places she had to be not a week later. Left her lights on by accident, battery wasn't totally dead, but was down enough to the point, it was going to take whatever power you fed it and not leave enough amps for the starter solenoid let alone starter itself to crank until it's own capacity was restored some. You'll notice on the tv commercials when they demo it, the car solenoid clicks. In that scenario, the battery is weak, but has a little juice available; it won't consume everything the little battery pack has, some will pass onto the cars other systems when you try to start it. If the battery is way down or outright dead, it's going to consume whatever the little battery can provide it and leave little to nothing for something attached that wants to drain a pile of amps at once. Dead batteries/bad batteries/damaged batteries are black holes for incoming power. Or, they remove! the car battery and tie it directly to the battery cables (which allows everything the little pack can muster to try to start your car) And finally, they'll show you a digital meter that's measuring voltage and only that showing that 12volts is available. Sure is, but, not enough amps are behind it to start your car. And there won't be until the little battery dumps enough power back into the car battery so it'll stop sucking power down like a black hole; refusing to pass on enough to benefit your cars starter. It's the same concept as jump starting your car. If your car battery is too far down, your car isn't going to crank right over, even if the engine on the other car is running and you you know for sure the other cars battery is hot to trot. The dead battery will accept as much as it possibly can get from the power source and leave next to nothing for anything trying to pull from it until it reaches a certain charge point. Until it does, you're ****ing in the wind. OTH, if you take one battery terminal lose on the dead car and connect your jumper wires and/or jump start battery pack directly to the terminals on the car you want to start, that car will get the full benefits of your borrowed power source and turn over for you. Once it does, reconnect the disconnected terminal and let your alternator finish recharging it. Make sure you leave enough room to re-attach it while your external power source is connected, so that the circuit remains completed; as some cars will die if you disconnect the battery; even if the alternator is perfectly okay and is supplying 'run' power. Those cars are using the battery to complete a circuit and if the circuit goes open, your car doesn't continue running. Obviously when you reconnect the terminals, go ahead and remove your external power source asap; you don't want to stress your alternator by asking it to charge two batteries at once. Don't worry about surging your cars computer, either. The weak battery will happily accept it without passing it along; the black hole effect does have that benefit, atleast. -- People you encounter every day are fighting battles you know nothing about. Be kind. |
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#12
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. |
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#13
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished? At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle. |
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#14
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
Stormin' Norman has brought this to us :
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished? At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle. Probably Repair/Replace because some people get nitpicky about the differences between them. |
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#15
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished? At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle. Remove & Replace |
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#16
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . -- Snag |
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#17
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Tue, 04 Oct 2016 13:39:24 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote: On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished? At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle. Generally speaking R&R is remove and replace. |
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#18
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.autos.ford,alt.autos,alt.autos.gm
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. |
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#19
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
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#20
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 17:12:36 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: wrote: On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay someone else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh , and his total was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor was a lot more than $70/hr . Can't see that job flat rating more than 1.5 hours , if that . Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a spark plug out of the head - probably crossthreaded and/or partially stripped at some time in the past . Total for parts was under a hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a new coil pack . Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent machining guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace rather than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for less than 1500 bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I understand that not everybody does . -- Snag Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane. Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils. |
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#21
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
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#23
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Wed, 5 Oct 2016 19:43:35 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: wrote: On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 17:12:36 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: wrote: On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay someone else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh , and his total was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor was a lot more than $70/hr . Can't see that job flat rating more than 1.5 hours , if that . Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a spark plug out of the head - probably crossthreaded and/or partially stripped at some time in the past . Total for parts was under a hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a new coil pack . Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent machining guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace rather than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for less than 1500 bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I understand that not everybody does . -- Snag Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane. Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils. Is that Rotax an OHV or L-head ? I had a bunch of stuff in the way , and this V6 is one of the DOHC 4 valve/cylinder models . Spark plug is top dead center in the combustion chamber . About 6 inches down in a hole ... OHV 4 cyl opposed. Those dohc crossflow heads with the plugs down insude a well are a BITCH to do thread repairs on! |
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#24
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
wrote in message news
 On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) .. My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going. |
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#25
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
On Thu, 6 Oct 2016 11:42:56 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote: wrote in message news On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going. And you were farther ahead paying someone else to do the job than you would have been putting off your own work to do it yourself. That occaisionally happens even to me. |
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#26
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Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
wrote:
On Thu, 6 Oct 2016 11:42:56 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: wrote in message news On Tue, 4 Oct 2016 15:07:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote: "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ... Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine. This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove. 97 Aerostar Thanks. R/R Video for this car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4 Voltage regulator: http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true Have you checked out this article? http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1 Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator. The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator. I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130. This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt . Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close. In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole $29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is $35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates. Your garage WILL have paid more than that. NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95 Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed. Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not ripped off - for sure. I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going. And you were farther ahead paying someone else to do the job than you would have been putting off your own work to do it yourself. That occaisionally happens even to me. I know of more than one working mechanic who has paid someone else to repair their vehicle. I've done it, mainly because I just didn't want to work on my own vehicle after spinning wrenches all day. That and having the "spare time" to do the work never seemed to appear. -- Steve W. |
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