Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1

On Sun, 02 Oct 2016 18:02:04 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1
The regulator is the squarish grey part fastened to the back of the
alternator with the 4 little bolts in the picture on the second page.

"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1

Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:


"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1

Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.


The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.

"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:


"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1

Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.


The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.

I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true

Which engine do you have? The regulator is a lot more work to remove
from the alternator on the vehicle than removing the alternator. Can't
remember how it is on a 4 liter - but it is certainly no easier than
on the 3.0

The "internal" regulator is bolted to the alternator. It IS available
separatgely for repair - and SOME replacement alternators come without
the regulator. Standard practice around here is to supply the
alternator complete with regulator installed and tested.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true
I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an
external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford -
perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use
a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you
can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3
liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes
about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse
the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator
fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove
the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do
the job ONCE for a change.

wrote in message news
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true
I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an
external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford -
perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use
a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you
can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3
liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes
about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse
the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator
fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove
the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do
the job ONCE for a change.

3.0

I want to point this out as it may save lots of people big bucks AND inconvenience over time.

I am a field service tech and drive a lot.

I used to have alternators fail a lot, perhaps every 2 or 3 3 years... before i went to a preventive maintence program for my vehicles battery

by 3 years old i juust replace the vehicles battery, wether it tests good or not......

i hate getting stranded with a dead battery

since i went to this my alternators quit failing. only failure was once with bearing failure


my theory, batteries at end of life make the alternator work much harder.

so a new battery every few years, before it fails saves on alternators.

i give my still good just replaced batteries to my best buddy who uses them on a 14 foot blade windmill he built.

his dud batteries get traded in, at the time of batttery replacement so no core charge......

batteries are easier to change than alternators

bob haller
Mon, 03
Oct 2016 12:35:35 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

my theory, batteries at end of life make the alternator work much
harder.

It's not a theory. You're correct. It happens because a dying battery
becomes a black hole for any electrical source connected to it. It
does increase the strain on the voltage regulator components as a
result, which most of the time, are where the failure itself occurs.
It's not that often that a winding inside the alternator goes before
the regulator does.

Btw, if you've seen the commercials for the tiny lithium (pick a
flavor) jump start units for sale, if your battery is nearly
completely drained and/or is actually bad, that unit isn't going to
be able to start your car right away/if ever. As, it's power is being
consumed by the battery first and foremost. The dead battery will
have to reach a certain charge point before enough current is
available to do anything else. That's why you have to wait a few
minutes sometimes when you connect the old fashioned jumper cables to
it.


I tried to explain this to an associate a few weeks ago when she was
showing it to me. She ignored my advice and learned for herself that
depending on battery condition, it will not work. She learned the
hard way, btw. She wound up late for several places she had to be not
a week later. Left her lights on by accident, battery wasn't totally
dead, but was down enough to the point, it was going to take whatever
power you fed it and not leave enough amps for the starter solenoid
let alone starter itself to crank until it's own capacity was
restored some.

You'll notice on the tv commercials when they demo it, the car
solenoid clicks. In that scenario, the battery is weak, but has a
little juice available; it won't consume everything the little
battery pack has, some will pass onto the cars other systems when you
try to start it.

If the battery is way down or outright dead, it's going to consume
whatever the little battery can provide it and leave little to
nothing for something attached that wants to drain a pile of amps at
once. Dead batteries/bad batteries/damaged batteries are black holes
for incoming power.

Or, they remove! the car battery and tie it directly to the battery
cables (which allows everything the little pack can muster to try to
start your car) And finally, they'll show you a digital meter that's
measuring voltage and only that showing that 12volts is available.
Sure is, but, not enough amps are behind it to start your car. And
there won't be until the little battery dumps enough power back into
the car battery so it'll stop sucking power down like a black hole;
refusing to pass on enough to benefit your cars starter.

It's the same concept as jump starting your car. If your car battery
is too far down, your car isn't going to crank right over, even if
the engine on the other car is running and you you know for sure the
other cars battery is hot to trot. The dead battery will accept as
much as it possibly can get from the power source and leave next to
nothing for anything trying to pull from it until it reaches a
certain charge point. Until it does, you're ****ing in the wind.

OTH, if you take one battery terminal lose on the dead car and
connect your jumper wires and/or jump start battery pack directly to
the terminals on the car you want to start, that car will get the
full benefits of your borrowed power source and turn over for you.

Once it does, reconnect the disconnected terminal and let your
alternator finish recharging it. Make sure you leave enough room to
re-attach it while your external power source is connected, so that
the circuit remains completed; as some cars will die if you
disconnect the battery; even if the alternator is perfectly okay and
is supplying 'run' power. Those cars are using the battery to
complete a circuit and if the circuit goes open, your car doesn't
continue running.

Obviously when you reconnect the terminals, go ahead and remove your
external power source asap; you don't want to stress your alternator
by asking it to charge two batteries at once. Don't worry about
surging your cars computer, either. The weak battery will happily
accept it without passing it along; the black hole effect does have
that benefit, atleast.


--
People you encounter every day are fighting battles you know nothing
about. Be kind.