"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:


"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true


Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...e-alternator-1

Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.


The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.

I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.