I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?


Remington RM1840W
18" 12-Amp corded electric
Reviews say available at these stores, but they are no longer available at them:
Sears $101
Walmart $89
Home Depot $89

Greenworks GW20332
18-in 14.2A corded electric
Available online order only:
HomeDepot $89

On Sunday, September 4, 2016 at 9:34:57 AM UTC-4, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?


Remington RM1840W
18" 12-Amp corded electric
Reviews say available at these stores, but they are no longer available at them:
Sears $101
Walmart $89
Home Depot $89

Greenworks GW20332
18-in 14.2A corded electric
Available online order only:
HomeDepot $89

I bought a Poulan, think it's 16" after Hurricane Sandy. I have an old
Stihl gas, but it's always been a pain in the ass to start, gets fouled
when it's not used regularly, etc. If you use it frequently, it was great.
So I bought the electric and I'm very happy with it. I cut up several
trees, some some larger diameter than the saw. If I had a lot of cutting
to do, mostly big stuff, etc, I still prefer gas, it has more power.
But for the convenience where you have power, can't beat that Poulan.
I think I paid about $75 for it online.

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?


Remington RM1840W
18" 12-Amp corded electric
Reviews say available at these stores, but they are no longer available at them:
Sears $101
Walmart $89
Home Depot $89

I've got a Remington 1635W, apparently in the same category. I am
impressed with how much work I have gotten out of it so far. I used it
to cut up almost half of a pretty big tree that fell in our yard (not
exceeding the smaller (20") cross-sections of course), and it didn't
die. Of course, if I had to do it over, I might have rented a gas chain
saw and a shreader. There are some plastic parts that wear, but for the
price I think I'll replace it rather than maintain it. If all you have
is light work, I think this is a great tool for it. No maintenance...



Greenworks GW20332
18-in 14.2A corded electric
Available online order only:
HomeDepot $89

"Bill" wrote in message ...
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?


Remington RM1840W
18" 12-Amp corded electric
Reviews say available at these stores, but they are no longer available at them:
Sears $101
Walmart $89
Home Depot $89

I've got a Remington 1635W, apparently in the same category. I am
impressed with how much work I have gotten out of it so far. I used it
to cut up almost half of a pretty big tree that fell in our yard (not
exceeding the smaller (20") cross-sections of course), and it didn't
die. Of course, if I had to do it over, I might have rented a gas chain
saw and a shreader. There are some plastic parts that wear, but for the
price I think I'll replace it rather than maintain it. If all you have
is light work, I think this is a great tool for it. No maintenance...

Greenworks GW20332
18-in 14.2A corded electric
Available online order only:
HomeDepot $89

Thanks, Bill. Good to hear. The only 18-in corded in town here is the Craftsman, so I picked one up today. HD, Lowed, Walmart all advertise one but after visiting all three, they are internet order only. I need to see tools like this, so ended up at Sears. Only thing I don't like about Sears is that I had to wait until 11am today (Sunday) for them to open. Will post how it works out.

"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?

After the little tornado went overhead, I bought a Homelite 14" chain saw
at Home Depot for $50. I used it a lot then to make firewood. It got a lot
more use after Superstorm Sandy. And again recently when they pruned the
trees on the next block before some road work. The guys left me many logs
to cut up. (I also have an axe for splitting.)

It has never failed me. I have not sharpened it. I always made sure there
was bar chain oil in it.

I see Home Depot has a newer model, for the same $50 price.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Don Wiss wrote:
"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?
After the little tornado went overhead, I bought a Homelite 14" chain saw
at Home Depot for $50. I used it a lot then to make firewood. It got a lot
more use after Superstorm Sandy. And again recently when they pruned the
trees on the next block before some road work. The guys left me many logs
to cut up. (I also have an axe for splitting.)

It has never failed me. I have not sharpened it. I always made sure there
was bar chain oil in it.

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to
use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the
difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.


I see Home Depot has a newer model, for the same $50 price.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 9/5/2016 12:12 AM, Bill wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:
"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several
corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent
reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location.
Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less
range?
After the little tornado went overhead, I bought a Homelite 14" chain saw
at Home Depot for $50. I used it a lot then to make firewood. It got a
lot
more use after Superstorm Sandy. And again recently when they pruned the
trees on the next block before some road work. The guys left me many logs
to cut up. (I also have an axe for splitting.)

It has never failed me. I have not sharpened it. I always made sure there
was bar chain oil in it.

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to
use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the
difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.


I see Home Depot has a newer model, for the same $50 price.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Ditto, ditto. I have an electric, although the chain bar is a bit
shorter, that also has a telescoping stick. You can use it to cut high
branches with climbing. I've use a Stihl gas unit with a shorter stick,
however, with the engine at the bottom, it was hard to push your way
through a thick branch. The electric one has the motor on top. I
though this would be a disadvantage, but the weight on the top helps to
push through thicker branches. Plus, you can remove the chain saw and
use it without the stick.

On 4/09/16 21:34, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location. Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less range?


Don't forget about a pair of safety gloves. Might save your life...

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...chainsaw+glove

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
�借貸! ��騙! ��交! �打交! �打劫! �自殺! 請考慮綜� (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa

On 5/09/16 21:04, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
On 4/09/16 21:34, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several
corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent
reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location.
Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less
range?


Don't forget about a pair of safety gloves. Might save your life...

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...chainsaw+glove



You might also wanna wear safety glasses!

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...safety+glasses


--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
�借貸! ��騙! ��交! �打交! �打劫! �自殺! 請考慮綜� (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa

Bill wrote:

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to
use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the
difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.

Bar oil is pretty thick - it thins out as the heat of the enginer warms it up.
Bit like boiler fuel. Since electric chain saws don't generate combustion heat,
I imagine that's why they recommend motor oil.

I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several
corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent
reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location.
Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less
range?
After the little tornado went overhead, I bought a Homelite 14" chain saw
at Home Depot for $50. I used it a lot then to make firewood. It got a
lot
more use after Superstorm Sandy. And again recently when they pruned the
trees on the next block before some road work. The guys left me many logs
to cut up. (I also have an axe for splitting.)

It has never failed me. I have not sharpened it. I always made sure there
was bar chain oil in it.

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to
use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the
difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.


I see Home Depot has a newer model, for the same $50 price.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

The manual for the Remington RM1415 says to use Bar and Chain Oil.

Perce

Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
Bill wrote:

My Remington chain saw directions said not to use chain saw oil, but to
use motor oil. I think I use 5w30, since it's handy. Not sure of the
difference in viscosity compared to bar chain oil.
Bar oil is pretty thick - it thins out as the heat of the enginer warms it up.
Bit like boiler fuel. Since electric chain saws don't generate combustion heat,
I imagine that's why they recommend motor oil.

Makes sense. Thanks! -- Bill

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" wrote in message ...
On 5/09/16 21:04, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
On 4/09/16 21:34, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several
corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent
reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location.
Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less
range?


Don't forget about a pair of safety gloves. Might save your life...

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...chainsaw+glove



You might also wanna wear safety glasses!

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...safety+glasses

Got the glasses. What's the advantage of chains saw gloves over thick work gloves?

On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 11:39:33 AM UTC-4, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"Mr. Man-wai Chang" wrote in message ...
On 5/09/16 21:04, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
On 4/09/16 21:34, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need a chainsaw 18-inch for a small one-time job, and found several
corded versions online, which is what I want. These have decent
reviews. I don't want battery, can't use gas at this location.
Anyone used either of these or know another one in the $120 or less
range?


Don't forget about a pair of safety gloves. Might save your life...

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...chainsaw+glove



You might also wanna wear safety glasses!

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...safety+glasses

Got the glasses. What's the advantage of chains saw gloves over thick work gloves?

At least one of them says this:

"Eight-layer lining of specific chain-arrest woven Kevlar at the back of the left hand withstands a chainsaw running at 3140 feet per minute"

What exactly they have in the way of protection probably varies from
one to another, as does the cost.

On 6/09/16 23:54, trader_4 wrote:

At least one of them says this:

"Eight-layer lining of specific chain-arrest woven Kevlar at the back of the left hand withstands a chainsaw running at 3140 feet per minute"

What exactly they have in the way of protection probably varies from
one to another, as does the cost.

If you have strong hands and your fingers and hands are dry and not
oily....

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
�借貸! ��騙! ��交! �打交! �打劫! �自殺! 請考慮綜� (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa

Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
On 6/09/16 23:54, trader_4 wrote:

At least one of them says this:

"Eight-layer lining of specific chain-arrest woven Kevlar at the back
of the left hand withstands a chainsaw running at 3140 feet per minute"

What exactly they have in the way of protection probably varies from
one to another, as does the cost.

If you have strong hands and your fingers and hands are dry and not
oily....


There's a lot more than hands that can be hurt with a chain saw (legs
for instance). Which hand are you concerned about cutting? I suspect
that if you really think you really need a special glove, that this may
not be the tool for you... I suggest a good pair of work boots--they
might protect your ankles from a "ding"? If you are cutting firewood,
set up a nice "cutting station" (whatever that is).

Bill

On 9/6/2016 9:03 PM, Bill wrote:

There's a lot more than hands that can be hurt with a chain saw (legs
for instance). Which hand are you concerned about cutting? I suspect
that if you really think you really need a special glove, that this may
not be the tool for you... I suggest a good pair of work boots--they
might protect your ankles from a "ding"? If you are cutting firewood,
set up a nice "cutting station" (whatever that is).

Bill



I've seen many a person trimming branches holding the saw in one hand,
steadying a branch with the other. Probably not smart, but a glove can
help. Almost a third of injuries are hand.

https://www.hindawi.com/archive/2015/459697/
Lacerations were the primary diagnosis for 81% of the ED visits. Among
body parts injured, 29% of the injuries occurred to the hand or fingers,
18% to the knee, 12.5% to the lower leg or ankle, and 11% to the upper
leg. Closer analysis of injuries to these body sites revealed that
lacerations were the predominant injury diagnosis, accounting for 87% of
hand/finger injuries; 89.3% of lower leg/ankle injuries; 97.9% of knee
injuries; and 97.4% of upper leg injuries.

http://www.golf.com/tour-and-news/gr...insaw-accident

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/6/2016 9:03 PM, Bill wrote:

There's a lot more than hands that can be hurt with a chain saw (legs
for instance). Which hand are you concerned about cutting? I suspect
that if you really think you really need a special glove, that this may
not be the tool for you... I suggest a good pair of work boots--they
might protect your ankles from a "ding"? If you are cutting firewood,
set up a nice "cutting station" (whatever that is).

Bill



I've seen many a person trimming branches holding the saw in one hand,
steadying a branch with the other. Probably not smart, but a glove
can help.

Like you said, it's probably not smart to do that. I wouldn't do it.
If you avoid that "technique", you have no need for a glove.

Almost a third of injuries are hand.

https://www.hindawi.com/archive/2015/459697/
Lacerations were the primary diagnosis for 81% of the ED visits. Among
body parts injured, 29% of the injuries occurred to the hand or
fingers, 18% to the knee, 12.5% to the lower leg or ankle, and 11% to
the upper leg. Closer analysis of injuries to these body sites
revealed that lacerations were the predominant injury diagnosis,
accounting for 87% of hand/finger injuries; 89.3% of lower leg/ankle
injuries; 97.9% of knee injuries; and 97.4% of upper leg injuries.

http://www.golf.com/tour-and-news/gr...insaw-accident

On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 23:07:33 -0400, Bill wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
I've seen many a person trimming branches holding the saw in one hand,
steadying a branch with the other. Probably not smart, but a glove
can help.

Like you said, it's probably not smart to do that. I wouldn't do it.
If you avoid that "technique", you have no need for a glove.

They should be using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Joe-SWJ800E-T.../dp/B009FT54CQ

No gloves needed.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Nobody has mentioned how important it is to keep the chain sharp so that the cutting does not require forcing the saw into the work, instead of letting the saw cut its own way.

On 7/09/16 22:56, wrote:
Nobody has mentioned how important it is to keep the chain sharp so that the cutting does not require forcing the saw into the work, instead of letting the saw cut its own way.


Good reminder! Same issues can happen to kitchen knifes!

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
�借貸! ��騙! ��交! �打交! �打劫! �自殺! 請考慮綜� (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa

wrote:
Nobody has mentioned how important it is to keep the chain sharp so
that the cutting does not require forcing the saw into the work,
instead of letting the saw cut its own way.

Watch the chips . Large chips are a good indicater that the chain is sharp
, fine dusty chips mean it's past time to sharpen . A chain that tends to
curve as you cut means the sharpening is unbalanced - I usually touch up a
couple of times freehand , then give the chain a good sharpening with a file
guide to be certain the teeth are at the proper angle and not sharpened
"curved" .
--
Snag

On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 1:25:35 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

....snip...

A chain that tends to curve as you cut means the sharpening is unbalanced

....snip...

Sometimes you want the chainsaw to cut a curve.

Befo

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

After:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

"Bill" wrote in message ...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/6/2016 9:03 PM, Bill wrote:

There's a lot more than hands that can be hurt with a chain saw (legs
for instance). Which hand are you concerned about cutting? I suspect
that if you really think you really need a special glove, that this may
not be the tool for you... I suggest a good pair of work boots--they
might protect your ankles from a "ding"? If you are cutting firewood,
set up a nice "cutting station" (whatever that is).

Bill



I've seen many a person trimming branches holding the saw in one hand,
steadying a branch with the other. Probably not smart, but a glove
can help.

Like you said, it's probably not smart to do that. I wouldn't do it.
If you avoid that "technique", you have no need for a glove.

Almost a third of injuries are hand.

https://www.hindawi.com/archive/2015/459697/
Lacerations were the primary diagnosis for 81% of the ED visits. Among
body parts injured, 29% of the injuries occurred to the hand or
fingers, 18% to the knee, 12.5% to the lower leg or ankle, and 11% to
the upper leg. Closer analysis of injuries to these body sites
revealed that lacerations were the predominant injury diagnosis,
accounting for 87% of hand/finger injuries; 89.3% of lower leg/ankle
injuries; 97.9% of knee injuries; and 97.4% of upper leg injuries.

http://www.golf.com/tour-and-news/gr...insaw-accident


Thanks for that link about injuries... Sounds to me like decent work boots and gloves, working within the saw range & operator's ability and common sense are a good way to start out.

More from https://www.hindawi.com/archive/2015/459697/

In addition to product design, several operator behaviors may be implicated in injuries found in the current study. Operators should cut at waist level or below due to the difficulty in managing the chain saw when trying to cut overhead. A sharp chain will result in much smoother cuts and require less force by the operator to complete the cut, thereby reducing the risk of the operator using excessive force or movement of the chain saw [16, 17]. Leg protection in the form of chain saw chaps has been suggested as a preventive product, though some research indicates the effectiveness of such an item is not robust.

Older population based study in Ireland indicated that most injury cases did not wear protective gear and few were competent in chain saw operation and cited a lack of appreciation and disregard for safety procedures

Circumstantial factors such as cutting position, type and size of timber being cut, type and size of chain saw being used, safety practices, knowledge of injury risk, and experience level of the operator represent some of the major factors that would help to elucidate why and how injuries occur. However, further research will be needed to ascertain the circumstances precipitating chain saw injuries.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 1:25:35 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs
wrote:

...snip...

A chain that tends to curve as you cut means the sharpening is
unbalanced

...snip...

Sometimes you want the chainsaw to cut a curve.

Befo

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

After:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

I don't see any reason that particular cut needed to be curved ... and as
thin as the section is a curved cut would be easy .
--
Snag

On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat, and
she asked the police to help her get inside.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:44:15 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 1:25:35 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs
wrote:

...snip...

A chain that tends to curve as you cut means the sharpening is
unbalanced

...snip...

Sometimes you want the chainsaw to cut a curve.

Befo

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

After:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

I don't see any reason that particular cut needed to be curved ... and as
thin as the section is a curved cut would be easy .
--
Snag

Just checking: Did you think I was serious?

On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:47:47 PM UTC-4, Don Wiss wrote:
On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat, and
she asked the police to help her get inside.


Yeah...in a related article she mentioned that she had just bought new locks
and had requested that the police not damage them. It appears that Officer
Friendly honored that request.

(I'm going with a "landlord/eviction" scenario.)

On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:47:47 PM UTC-4, Don Wiss wrote:
On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat, and
she asked the police to help her get inside.


"Hey mate, did you bring any duct tape?"

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

On 9/7/2016 12:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:47:47 PM UTC-4, Don Wiss wrote:
On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat, and
she asked the police to help her get inside.


Yeah...in a related article she mentioned that she had just bought new locks
and had requested that the police not damage them. It appears that Officer
Friendly honored that request.

(I'm going with a "landlord/eviction" scenario.)



I am going with a training session. There's an open window.

On 9/7/2016 1:00 PM, Taxed and Spent wrote:
On 9/7/2016 12:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:47:47 PM UTC-4, Don Wiss wrote:
On Wed, 7 Sep 2016, DerbyDad03 posted:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg


Looks like the woman standing to the side got locked out of her flat,
and
she asked the police to help her get inside.


Yeah...in a related article she mentioned that she had just bought new
locks
and had requested that the police not damage them. It appears that
Officer
Friendly honored that request.

(I'm going with a "landlord/eviction" scenario.)



I am going with a training session. There's an open window.


Drug den:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...drugs-den.html

I would think a breaching charge or shotgun breaching round would have
been a lot quicker.

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 1:25:35 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:

...snip...

A chain that tends to curve as you cut means the sharpening is unbalanced

...snip...

Sometimes you want the chainsaw to cut a curve.

Befo

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

After:

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/...ce_used_a_.jpg

What, they couldn't force a lock on a storm door?

--
Tekkie

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

Thanks for that link about injuries... Sounds to me like decent work boots and gloves, working within the saw range & operator's ability and common sense are a good way to start out.

More from https://www.hindawi.com/archive/2015/459697/

In addition to product design, several operator behaviors may be implicated in injuries found in the current study. Operators should cut at waist level or below due to the difficulty in managing the chain saw when trying to cut overhead. A sharp chain will result in much smoother cuts and require less force by the operator to complete the cut, thereby reducing the risk of the operator using excessive force or movement of the chain saw [16, 17]. Leg protection in the form of chain saw chaps has been suggested as a preventive product, though some research indicates the effectiveness of such an item is not robust.

Older population based study in Ireland indicated that most injury cases did not wear protective gear and few were competent in chain saw operation and cited a lack of appreciation and disregard for safety procedures

Circumstantial factors such as cutting position, type and size of timber being cut, type and size of chain saw being used, safety practices, knowledge of injury risk, and experience level of the operator represent some of the major factors that would help to elucidate why and how injuries occur. However, further research will be needed to ascertain the circumstances precipitating chain saw injuries.



I'd say you covered it quite well.