I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the 1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...me-901871-.htm

On 9/1/16 12:44 PM, Harvey wrote:
I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine
until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like
the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the
point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same
problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is
fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the
1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft
side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The
a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?


I bet you could fry bacon and eggs on the outer body of that unit in the
attic...

--
With all this €œgun control€� talk, I havent heard one politician say how
they plan to take guns away from criminals and terrorists€” just from law
abiding citizens€¦

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:44:08 PM UTC-4, Harvey wrote:
I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the 1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?



Who knows? Impossible to diagnose something like that remotely.
I assume when you say the thermostat stops at 78 and can't be changed
for 6 hours, you really mean the temperature won't go any lower
than 78, even though the system is running constantly? It is
running constantly, right? What is
the temp difference between the air going into the system and
coming out? Having the air handler part in the attic in AZ
sure isn't helping any. The AC company says that capacity isn't
the problem, but what do they say is the problem? The other
important part of the equation is having the proper ducting,
sufficient supply registers, sufficient returns, returns in
the right places, etc. A lot there to work with.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 10:00:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:44:08 PM UTC-4, Harvey wrote:
I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the 1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?



Who knows? Impossible to diagnose something like that remotely.
I assume when you say the thermostat stops at 78 and can't be changed
for 6 hours, you really mean the temperature won't go any lower
than 78, even though the system is running constantly? It is
running constantly, right? What is
the temp difference between the air going into the system and
coming out? Having the air handler part in the attic in AZ
sure isn't helping any. The AC company says that capacity isn't
the problem, but what do they say is the problem? The other
important part of the equation is having the proper ducting,
sufficient supply registers, sufficient returns, returns in
the right places, etc. A lot there to work with.

I'd check behind the T-stats; if the hole for the wire is large
enough, hot air in the wall cavity can migrate in and cause the T-stat
to be erratic in performance. Seal the 'large' hole with drywall
compound around the wire. Drywall guys tend to use a hammer to pierce
the drywall for the wire and never seal it up. BTDT

(P.S. Let me know later if this post shows up on the HH web portal.
They have been known to filter out some posters) Or reply to my post
so the OP may see my suggestion.

On 09/01/2016 12:28 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 10:00:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:44:08 PM UTC-4, Harvey wrote:
....
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
....

... The AC company says that capacity isn't
the problem, but what do they say is the problem? ...

If they haven't solved it after 3 months, the likelihood is they don't
know, either...

Actually, they probably do know; just don't want to spend $$ to fix it.
That there's less installed capacity in a larger area that's on the west
side and in attic to boot gives pretty clear indication of what the
problem is--it _is_ capacity; at least in the present installation
configuration and with the present insulation, etc., etc., etc., ...



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On 09/01/2016 12:44 PM, dpb wrote:
....

Actually, they probably do know; just don't want to spend $$ to fix it.
That there's less installed capacity in a larger area that's on the west
side and in attic to boot gives pretty clear indication of what the
problem is--it _is_ capacity; at least in the present installation
configuration and with the present insulation, etc., etc., etc., ...
....

Now who's responsible is another question; who sized the unit, who did
the design details for heat loss/addition minimization, who verified
that construction followed those details and did the fine work required
to minimize/eliminate air conduits, etc., etc., etc., ...

That the A/C company continues to work on it implies they probably
realize that they do have at least some culpability here...

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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 1:52:00 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 09/01/2016 12:44 PM, dpb wrote:
...

Actually, they probably do know; just don't want to spend $$ to fix it.
That there's less installed capacity in a larger area that's on the west
side and in attic to boot gives pretty clear indication of what the
problem is--it _is_ capacity; at least in the present installation
configuration and with the present insulation, etc., etc., etc., ...
...

Now who's responsible is another question; who sized the unit, who did
the design details for heat loss/addition minimization, who verified
that construction followed those details and did the fine work required
to minimize/eliminate air conduits, etc., etc., etc., ...

That the A/C company continues to work on it implies they probably
realize that they do have at least some culpability here...


The OP has not stated whether this work is being done for free, as part of
a service contract or on a parts-and-labor basis.

Continuing to work for free and replacing major components - for free -
may imply some culpability, but if they are getting paid then they are just
doing what they are getting paid for.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 1:44:16 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 09/01/2016 12:28 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 10:00:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:44:08 PM UTC-4, Harvey wrote:
...
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
...

... The AC company says that capacity isn't
the problem, but what do they say is the problem? ...

If they haven't solved it after 3 months, the likelihood is they don't
know, either...


Probably right. During the heat wave a couple weeks ago, one of my
neighbors had the local premier, fancy, expensive HVAC company over.
They had 3 or 4 trucks there for a whole day. This is the company
when I went out for a quote for a new gas furnace and AC plus installing
an additonal return upstairs wanted $16K. Next highest quote was $10K,
lowest was about half that. I figured those guys must be giving them
the royal treatment, a new system. A few days later, a different
company there, again with 3 trucks, all day. Finally, a week later,
yet another company, 3 trucks there most of the day. WTF? Something
bad must be going on there LOL. I can see calling 3 companies for
a second opinion, quotes, whatever, but when they have 3 or 4 trucks
there all day when it's 90F? I can't imagine what that was all about.




Actually, they probably do know; just don't want to spend $$ to fix it.
That there's less installed capacity in a larger area that's on the west
side and in attic to boot gives pretty clear indication of what the
problem is--it _is_ capacity; at least in the present installation
configuration and with the present insulation, etc., etc., etc., ...


Sounds like someone has already spent a lot of $$$. New outside unit,
new inside, could have gone to a larger system at that point. And
you're right, seems odd that the lower ton system is on the west side.
For the whole place they have 6 tons, which should be enough for even
AZ, I would think.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 2:48:45 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 1:44:16 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 09/01/2016 12:28 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 10:00:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:44:08 PM UTC-4, Harvey wrote:
...
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
...

... The AC company says that capacity isn't
the problem, but what do they say is the problem? ...

If they haven't solved it after 3 months, the likelihood is they don't
know, either...


Probably right. During the heat wave a couple weeks ago, one of my
neighbors had the local premier, fancy, expensive HVAC company over.
They had 3 or 4 trucks there for a whole day. This is the company
when I went out for a quote for a new gas furnace and AC plus installing
an additonal return upstairs wanted $16K. Next highest quote was $10K,
lowest was about half that. I figured those guys must be giving them
the royal treatment, a new system. A few days later, a different
company there, again with 3 trucks, all day. Finally, a week later,
yet another company, 3 trucks there most of the day. WTF? Something
bad must be going on there LOL. I can see calling 3 companies for
a second opinion, quotes, whatever, but when they have 3 or 4 trucks
there all day when it's 90F? I can't imagine what that was all about.


Well, you could walk down the street and ask him. Oh wait...you live in
the tri-state area. Nobody talks to their neighbors there.

(I'm kidding! I grew up NYC and laugh at all the "horror stories" that
I hear from people that have never lived anywhere near (or like) the
Big Apple.)

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 16:44:01 +0000, Harvey
m wrote:

I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the 1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?

The long term, cheapest option is insulation. Box in that air handler
to isolate it from the attic heat or hive up a closet (they pretty
much made attic air handlers illegal in Florida), Then pile blow in
insulation or batts over the duct work in the attic. That will buy you
some long term savings. Then look at the house itself. Can you shed
some of the heat load with awnings over the south windows and what is
the R rating of the windows? Is there any insulation in the walls?
My guess is *if* they actually computed the Manual J, they put in the
wrong numbers for the calculation. A lot of time, contractors just
look and say that is "X" tons without actually doing the math.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 11:27:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 1:52:00 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 09/01/2016 12:44 PM, dpb wrote:
...

Actually, they probably do know; just don't want to spend $$ to fix it.
That there's less installed capacity in a larger area that's on the west
side and in attic to boot gives pretty clear indication of what the
problem is--it _is_ capacity; at least in the present installation
configuration and with the present insulation, etc., etc., etc., ...
...

Now who's responsible is another question; who sized the unit, who did
the design details for heat loss/addition minimization, who verified
that construction followed those details and did the fine work required
to minimize/eliminate air conduits, etc., etc., etc., ...

That the A/C company continues to work on it implies they probably
realize that they do have at least some culpability here...


The OP has not stated whether this work is being done for free, as part of
a service contract or on a parts-and-labor basis.

Continuing to work for free and replacing major components - for free -
may imply some culpability, but if they are getting paid then they are just
doing what they are getting paid for.

If this is a new house, it is probably warranty work and the builder
wants the cheapest fix he can get. I bet that "replaced" condenser is
running on another house right now.
They may be stalling until the warranty runs out, typically a year.
The OP should open a complaint with the state agency that regulates
these so they have it on record that there is still a problem when it
gets hot next summer.

Or, it was sized properly for maximum 100F days, and it was assumed A) there aren't that many days above that and B) everybody knows a system can't keep up above its design temperature.

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

Of course, that doesn't explain spending all that money replacing stuff.

In a different climate you would rather have it a bit undersized than oversized, because you control humidity better. But in Arizona, do you even have humidity?

That 2.5 ton would be enough in Virginia to handle heat AND humidity, I would think in Arizona with sensible load only, no latent, it would do fine. Get it out of the attic though.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:18:41 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

Or, it was sized properly for maximum 100F days, and it was assumed A) there aren't that many days above that and B) everybody knows a system can't keep up above its design temperature.

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

Of course, that doesn't explain spending all that money replacing stuff.

In a different climate you would rather have it a bit undersized than oversized, because you control humidity better. But in Arizona, do you even have humidity?

That 2.5 ton would be enough in Virginia to handle heat AND humidity, I would think in Arizona with sensible load only, no latent, it would do fine. Get it out of the attic though.

He is in Arizona. A design point should be at least 110 and maybe 115.
Humidity is not an issue at all. You could not pump enough cooling in
there to get to 50% so "clammy" is not an issue.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:18:41 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

I tried the simple approach for a suggestion. Check behind the
T-stats for intrusions of hot air in the wall cavity -- from the
attic. My next simple check would be the attic shuttle leaking hot air
from the attic down into the conditioned area.

I live in the Mojave Desert. Pick your poison

KISS principal.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 13:27:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:18:41 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

I tried the simple approach for a suggestion. Check behind the
T-stats for intrusions of hot air in the wall cavity -- from the
attic. My next simple check would be the attic shuttle leaking hot air
from the attic down into the conditioned area.

I live in the Mojave Desert. Pick your poison

KISS principal.

Hot air blowing on the thermostat would make the AC run longer and the
room cooler.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 16:37:47 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 13:27:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:18:41 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

I tried the simple approach for a suggestion. Check behind the
T-stats for intrusions of hot air in the wall cavity -- from the
attic. My next simple check would be the attic shuttle leaking hot air
from the attic down into the conditioned area.

I live in the Mojave Desert. Pick your poison

KISS principal.

Hot air blowing on the thermostat would make the AC run longer and the
room cooler.

Cool air can leak up and through a non-sealed attic shuttle, escaping.

Butterbean

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 15:07:15 -0400, wrote:

Then look at the house itself. Can you shed
some of the heat load with awnings over the south windows and what is
the R rating of the windows?

Solar screens outside. More thread counts reduce UV rays into the
winders.

posted for all of us...



On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 16:44:01 +0000, Harvey
m wrote:

I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs. This summer we had
days of 112+. On those days thermostat would stay at 80 degrees. We like the
temp at 76-77 degrees, but can't do that when it is hot! Isn't that the point
of an a/c especially in Arizona?
Our a/c company has worked on the system for 3 months and still same problem,
but weather is getting cooler and soon it will be hard to tell if it is fixed
or not. Our house is 3360 sq ft and has 2 a/c units. The unit on the 1760 sq
ft side is a 3-1/2 ton a/c with 2 thermostats. That side of the house (East
side) stays as cool as we want it, even on very hot days. The 1600 sq ft side
of the house has a 2-1/2 ton a/c and it is the one with the problem. The a/c
company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?

The long term, cheapest option is insulation. Box in that air handler
to isolate it from the attic heat or hive up a closet (they pretty
much made attic air handlers illegal in Florida), Then pile blow in
insulation or batts over the duct work in the attic. That will buy you
some long term savings. Then look at the house itself. Can you shed
some of the heat load with awnings over the south windows and what is
the R rating of the windows? Is there any insulation in the walls?
My guess is *if* they actually computed the Manual J, they put in the
wrong numbers for the calculation. A lot of time, contractors just
look and say that is "X" tons without actually doing the math.

+1

--
Tekkie

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 13:44:09 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 16:37:47 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 01 Sep 2016 13:27:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:18:41 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

It holds 80F? Only 2 degrees above setpoint? There's an argument nothing is actually wrong.

I tried the simple approach for a suggestion. Check behind the
T-stats for intrusions of hot air in the wall cavity -- from the
attic. My next simple check would be the attic shuttle leaking hot air
from the attic down into the conditioned area.

I live in the Mojave Desert. Pick your poison

KISS principal.

Hot air blowing on the thermostat would make the AC run longer and the
room cooler.

Cool air can leak up and through a non-sealed attic shuttle, escaping.

Butterbean

Hmmm Cool air leaking "up" and "hot air leaking down".
One of us was not paying attention in science class.
You also said "Check behind the T-stats for intrusions of hot air in
the wall cavity", hence my comment.
I don't care any more ... carry on.

OUT.

On 9/1/16 12:44 PM, Harvey wrote:
I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine
until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat
will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs.

company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that
unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?

They say no, so they must have the calculations for the sizing. Ask
about them.

Step one is to determine what size you need. This takes a few hours as
you must measure window area and type, door area and type, roof and wall
area and type of construction and insulation. You have to determine the
temperature drop you want to achieve.

Most houses use a 20 degree temperature differential so at 100 outside,
your 80 inside is perfect. Given the construction cannot be easily
changed the variable is the capacity of the AC. There are some givens.
To achieve a certain temperature drop you need a unit of X capacity.
You either have it or you don't. If you don't, no manner of
manipulation will change the laws of thermodynamics. Only added
capacity will get it cooler.

A couple of caveats. If you oversize the unit to take care of the 116
degree days it may not work so well on an 85 degree day as it will not
dehumidify enough. Cool and clammy in more humid ares, probably not so
much for you. Having multiple units helps but you need proper air
circulation if only one is running. The other is energy costs. It
starts going up exponentially but that is a decision we all make,
comfort versus cost.

Get the design first and see what you should be expecting versus what
you are getting. Only then can we move on.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 8:34:14 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/16 12:44 PM, Harvey wrote:
I moved into a new home in Arizona in Nov 2015. The a/c worked fine
until the
outside temperature got over 100 degrees. When it does, my thermostat
will
stop at 78 degrees and can't be changed for up to 6 hrs.

company has replaced the condenser outside and the unit in the attic, but
yesterday it was 106 and still the same problem. I have asked if that
unit
should be a 3 ton and they say no. What is the problem?

They say no, so they must have the calculations for the sizing. Ask
about them.

Step one is to determine what size you need. This takes a few hours as
you must measure window area and type, door area and type, roof and wall
area and type of construction and insulation. You have to determine the
temperature drop you want to achieve.

Most houses use a 20 degree temperature differential so at 100 outside,
your 80 inside is perfect.

Might be perfect in CT, but not so perfect in AZ where temps can easily
be 110F+

posted for all of us...




Hmmm Cool air leaking "up" and "hot air leaking down".
One of us was not paying attention in science class.
You also said "Check behind the T-stats for intrusions of hot air in
the wall cavity", hence my comment.
I don't care any more ... carry on.

OUT.

Congrats people, you have finally exceeded the limits of one of the best,
most helpful posters here; probably unintentionally.

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 3 Sep 2016 15:18:53 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

posted for all of us...




Hmmm Cool air leaking "up" and "hot air leaking down".
One of us was not paying attention in science class.
You also said "Check behind the T-stats for intrusions of hot air in
the wall cavity", hence my comment.
I don't care any more ... carry on.

OUT.

Congrats people, you have finally exceeded the limits of one of the best,
most helpful posters here; probably unintentionally.

No worry. I would at least check simple things, long before I worried
about replacing the unit.

Phuck "science class". Common sense works for me. Hot air in the wall
cavity causing T-Stat erratic performance or hot/cool air drafting in
an attic scuttle. I guess their door seals never leak, either.

On Saturday, September 3, 2016 at 3:36:29 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 3 Sep 2016 15:18:53 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

posted for all of us...




Hmmm Cool air leaking "up" and "hot air leaking down".
One of us was not paying attention in science class.
You also said "Check behind the T-stats for intrusions of hot air in
the wall cavity", hence my comment.
I don't care any more ... carry on.

OUT.

Congrats people, you have finally exceeded the limits of one of the best,
most helpful posters here; probably unintentionally.

No worry. I would at least check simple things, long before I worried
about replacing the unit.

Phuck "science class". Common sense works for me. Hot air in the wall
cavity causing T-Stat erratic performance or hot/cool air drafting in
an attic scuttle. I guess their door seals never leak, either.

Gfre is right about that. If hot air in the wall was causing erratic
performance, the AC would be running too much and the house would be
too cold. That wasn't the complaint. But I agree, we don't have
enough info. One of the first things I asked was if the system was
running all the time when it's unable to lower the temp anymore. If
it's not, then I agree the thermostat, or maybe a register directing
cold air at the Tstat, could be involved.

On 9/3/2016 9:52 PM, trader_4 wrote:


Gfre is right about that. If hot air in the wall was causing erratic
performance, the AC would be running too much and the house would be
too cold. That wasn't the complaint. But I agree, we don't have
enough info. One of the first things I asked was if the system was
running all the time when it's unable to lower the temp anymore. If
it's not, then I agree the thermostat, or maybe a register directing
cold air at the Tstat, could be involved.


There was also no mention of night temperature. If it dropped
considerably at night the unit should be able to get the indoor
temperature down as there is no sun load and a lower temperature.

On Saturday, September 3, 2016 at 10:53:54 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/3/2016 9:52 PM, trader_4 wrote:


Gfre is right about that. If hot air in the wall was causing erratic
performance, the AC would be running too much and the house would be
too cold. That wasn't the complaint. But I agree, we don't have
enough info. One of the first things I asked was if the system was
running all the time when it's unable to lower the temp anymore. If
it's not, then I agree the thermostat, or maybe a register directing
cold air at the Tstat, could be involved.


There was also no mention of night temperature. If it dropped
considerably at night the unit should be able to get the indoor
temperature down as there is no sun load and a lower temperature.

Good point.
And as usual, from Home Moaners Hub (think it was Stormin that came up
with that), it's a one hit wonder. Question asked and then you never
hear from them again. Probably BS trolling to generate traffic.