I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

On 4/25/2016 10:48 AM, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Where is the line -- in a wall that can be exposed? (basements often
have the pipe out there for all to see; no issues!)

IME, the vampire taps are a cheap hack. Do it right.

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

Consider also installing a carbon filter -- instead of relying on the
overpriced CUSTOM filter that will be present inside the refrigerator
(if it has thru-the-door dispensers).

If you're accessing the water line in the basement, you can install
an OVERSIZED filter, there -- and not have it as an eyesore in the
kitchen. Be sure to install a stop upstream from it (to facilitate
changing).

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

Copper lines are expensive. Those puncture type shutoffs can and have
known to go bad.

PEX is your friend ... and a ball valve for the shutoff. YMMV.

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:48:16 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

If...

....you have open access to a 1/2" water pipe
....you can move the pipe enough to get the fitting installed
....you aren't comfortable sweating in a copper fitting (or just don't want to)
....you don't mind spending a little extra for quick, no brainer install

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/tee-stop/

or

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/straight-stops/

On 2016-04-25 1:48 PM, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

Vampire taps are a hack, it will fail, eventually.

--
Froz....

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 4/25/2016 1:48 PM, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.


Not the "best" way but the easiest for DIY. Sweating in a valve would
be better. That said, my saddle valve has been in use for about 25
years with no problem.

You can buy a stainless steel braided line to run to the fridge from the
valve. They come in various lengths and have the proper fittings in
place.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

IMHO that is not, nor ever has been the best way. Quite the opposite.
If you're not comfortable working with copper I recommend you pay for a professional to do the job right. You will be money
ahead in the long run.

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

I'd use copper tubing, NOT that cheap plastic tubing, (sold for that
purpose), which can break over time. Those screw on valves that puncture
the pipe are ok. (On copper pipe). Shut off the water when you install
it, unless you want your face washed.

On 4/25/16 1:48 PM, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.


Strongly recommend against clip on/pierce-pipe device. If it doesn't
leak when you install it, just be patient.

As Rick said to Ilsa, maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow...but soon and
for the rest of your life...

--
With all this “gun control” talk, I haven’t heard one politician say how
they plan to take guns away from criminals and terrorists— just from law
abiding citizens…

Despite all the warnings here, I use the clamp-on
method. It should come with the frig. I did my
own that way some 15 years ago and it's never
leaked. Nor have I noticed one leaking on jobs.
Easy doesn't necessarily mean chintzy. What I
*don't* trust is pex. I expect that stuff will be
recalled in a decade or two and people will marvel
at the obvious stupidity of plastic water pipes,
along with arsenic-treated wood for playgrounds
and "eco" bulbs with mercury in them.
But....to each their own, I guess.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:21:02 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:48:16 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

If...

...you have open access to a 1/2" water pipe
...you can move the pipe enough to get the fitting installed
...you aren't comfortable sweating in a copper fitting (or just don't want to)
...you don't mind spending a little extra for quick, no brainer install

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/tee-stop/

or

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/straight-stops/

Thanks to all of the QUICK repsonses. I do have easy, open access to
the existing water pipe, in my basement. It will be easy to drill a
hole in the floor, behind the fridge, to connect to that pipe.

I have use SharkBite connecors in the past, for other copper
connections. The referenced link looks to be an ideal soltion, with a
local shut off

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 2:38:46 PM UTC-4, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

IMHO that is not, nor ever has been the best way. Quite the opposite.
If you're not comfortable working with copper I recommend you pay for a professional to do the job right. You will be money
ahead in the long run.

Please define "working with copper".

Sweated fittings, compression fittings and Sharkbite fittings could all be
considered "working with copper".

The order of ease is the reverse of the cost, but any of those would be
considerably less expensive than a professional.



Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:27:11 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 2:38:46 PM UTC-4, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

IMHO that is not, nor ever has been the best way. Quite the opposite.
If you're not comfortable working with copper I recommend you pay for a professional to do the job right. You will be money
ahead in the long run.

Please define "working with copper".

Sweated fittings, compression fittings and Sharkbite fittings could all be
considered "working with copper".

You just answered your own question.

The order of ease is the reverse of the cost, but any of those would be
considerably less expensive than a professional.



Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 3:53:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

I'd use copper tubing, NOT that cheap plastic tubing, (sold for that
purpose), which can break over time. Those screw on valves that puncture
the pipe are ok. (On copper pipe). Shut off the water when you install
it, unless you want your face washed.

Why would you need to shut off the water? The clamp seals the pipe before
you even puncture it with the needle.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote in


Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

I used one of those about 25 years ago. Still using it and no
problems. BTW, my water chemistry is neutral. That could be a factor
to consider.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:18:22 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

What I
*don't* trust is pex. I expect that stuff will be
recalled in a decade or two and people will marvel
at the obvious stupidity of plastic water pipes,

You really are serious. Do you know how long PEX has been around?

Stick with metal pipe if you like. Bless you. Step into the modern
world.

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 2:29:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 4/25/2016 1:48 PM, wrote:
I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.


Not the "best" way but the easiest for DIY. Sweating in a valve would
be better. That said, my saddle valve has been in use for about 25
years with no problem.

You can buy a stainless steel braided line to run to the fridge from the
valve. They come in various lengths and have the proper fittings in
place.

+1

I have the piercing saddle type valve on my humidifier and fridge.
Twenty plus years, no leaks. It's quick, easy and works for me.
Fridge uses a plastic line, I'd probably
go with braided for a new install. I don't think copper has a
compelling advantage, especially since the fridge usually has to
be moved with the line in place. They probably have a packaged
kit at HD, etc that includes the line and valve.

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 4:01:45 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 3:53:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

I'd use copper tubing, NOT that cheap plastic tubing, (sold for that
purpose), which can break over time. Those screw on valves that puncture
the pipe are ok. (On copper pipe). Shut off the water when you install
it, unless you want your face washed.

Why would you need to shut off the water? The clamp seals the pipe before
you even puncture it with the needle.

+1

At least it does if you do it right.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:48:06 -0400, wrote:

I will soon have a new refrigerator delivered. It will replace a unit
that does NOT now have a water feed. I do not want to pay the
quopted $150, for that water feed to be installed by a plumber.

Does anyone have a recommendation, as to best way to connect to an
existing water line. I once used a clamp type device, installed over a
copper water line. The clamp had a screw feed that would penetrate the
copper tube and then provide the water to a pipe leading to the
fridge. Is that still the best way?

Should I then use a new copper pipe, to connect to the fridge's water
input. Is there a better (easier) way - ala PEX tubing or other "new"
material? I will be connecting to that copper water pipe in my
basement, which is maybe 25 feet from the refrigerator.

The right answer probably depends on how the cold water under the sink
is hooked up and whether you can get to the fridge from there easily.
On newer houses that is going to be a compression connector that is
easy to take apart, put a "T" in and move on. I also agree, using the
made up, braided hose to the fridge is the way to go.

On 4/25/2016 4:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 3:53:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I'd use copper tubing, NOT that cheap plastic tubing, (sold for that
purpose), which can break over time. Those screw on valves that puncture
the pipe are ok. (On copper pipe). Shut off the water when you install
it, unless you want your face washed.

Why would you need to shut off the water? The clamp seals the pipe before
you even puncture it with the needle.


Years ago, a more experienced tech taught me to
shut off the water, release the pressure at a
faucet. Drill a small hole, instead of using
the self piercing function.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 4/25/2016 6:20 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 4:01:45 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'd use copper tubing, NOT that cheap plastic tubing, (sold for that
purpose), which can break over time. Those screw on valves that puncture
the pipe are ok. (On copper pipe). Shut off the water when you install
it, unless you want your face washed.

Why would you need to shut off the water? The clamp seals the pipe before
you even puncture it with the needle.

+1

At least it does if you do it right.


To be consistent with your other winger dinger
argument, you'd have to flood the OP house, and
kill all his family with black mold. Isn't that
what winger dingers do, if they can't call a
plumber?

As for me, I like the copper tubing. Drill small
pilot hole for the piercing valve. And lower
tax rates for all tax payers, including the rich.

--
..
Christopher A. Young for elected office.
And, I approved this message.
..
..

i DON T LIKE that 1/4 inch supply line. its easy to bend and can restrict water flow. fridgesmust be moved from time to time

scrub floor, wash walls, fridge ha problem etc etc etc.

I would NOT use a thin plastic tubing,,,(PEX is OK)

Compare the "convienince factor" of having water and ice in the fridge, vs

the impact of a leak when you are not home.

Not a good tradeoff, I don't mind filling the ice tray by hand.

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 06:26:44 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I would NOT use a thin plastic tubing,,,(PEX is OK)

Compare the "convienince factor" of having water and ice in the fridge, vs

the impact of a leak when you are not home.

Not a good tradeoff, I don't mind filling the ice tray by hand.


You must not use much ice.
All of that because you won't spend $10 for a good connection to the
fridge?

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 12:29:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 06:26:44 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I would NOT use a thin plastic tubing,,,(PEX is OK)

Compare the "convienince factor" of having water and ice in the fridge, vs

the impact of a leak when you are not home.

Not a good tradeoff, I don't mind filling the ice tray by hand.


You must not use much ice.
All of that because you won't spend $10 for a good connection to the
fridge?

The risk of a damaging leak is small, the convenience of crushed ice
at the door is great, IMO. If you followed the probability of a
leak, an overflow, etc, we wouldn't have toilets, dishwashers or many
bathtubs either. Why bring water via plumbing into the house at all?
Plus, that's what homeowner's insurance is for, isn't it? I have
3 decades plus of experience with ice makers, using just plastic line
and no disasters, not even a leak, so far.

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 12:03:12 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
i DON T LIKE that 1/4 inch supply line. its easy to bend and can restrict water flow. fridgesmust be moved from time to time

scrub floor, wash walls, fridge ha problem etc etc etc.

I have the 1/4 copper. A nice coil of it that allows moving to clean etc.
Also the pierce valve. 15 years, no problems.

On 04/25/2016 01:05 PM, Oren wrote:

[snip]

PEX is your friend ... and a ball valve for the shutoff. YMMV.

That is what I have for my refrigerator hookup. It replaced an old leaky
pipe in the yard.

BTW, I don't have a basement and the house is on concrete. The PEX runs
through the attic.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"One good schoolmaster is of more use than a hundred priests." -- Thomas
Paine (1737-1809)

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 15:02:50 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

PEX is your friend ... and a ball valve for the shutoff. YMMV.

That is what I have for my refrigerator hookup. It replaced an old leaky
pipe in the yard.

BTW, I don't have a basement and the house is on concrete. The PEX runs
through the attic.

Have to check, but my fridge does have a stop valve behind it. Single
story on a slab, all PEX with a manifold in the laundry room. No other
water feature has a stop shut off because all are at the manifold.

Clean and simple. Resembles https://tinyurl.com/jz2kuem

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 10:29:09 -0700 (PDT), Thomas
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 12:03:12 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
i DON T LIKE that 1/4 inch supply line. its easy to bend and can restrict water flow. fridgesmust be moved from time to time

scrub floor, wash walls, fridge ha problem etc etc etc.

I have the 1/4 copper. A nice coil of it that allows moving to clean etc.
Also the pierce valve. 15 years, no problems.

Thank you all, for the many positive responses. Most helpful !!