I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:23:42 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

Perhaps you might want to give up trying the fix the crappy drawers
and just make new ones. Pocket screws make it really simple. By
making a 4 sided box, you can put the old fronts on the new drawers
and everything will look the same. I've done it and couldn't be happier.

This is just one of the many videos showing how it's done. You can
DAGS for instructions, videos, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKVo-rLv-W8

I made the new drawers at least 4" longer than the original ones and
added full extension slides. I love 'em and more importantly, SWMBO
loves 'em too.

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 16:34:31 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:23:42 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

Perhaps you might want to give up trying the fix the crappy drawers
and just make new ones. Pocket screws make it really simple. By
making a 4 sided box, you can put the old fronts on the new drawers
and everything will look the same. I've done it and couldn't be happier.

This is just one of the many videos showing how it's done. You can
DAGS for instructions, videos, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKVo-rLv-W8

I made the new drawers at least 4" longer than the original ones and
added full extension slides. I love 'em and more importantly, SWMBO
loves 'em too.

Excellent video. Kreg has a less expensive pocket screw jig (single)
than he used in the video (kit). I have the same 3N1 drill (Rockwell)

Good advice you provided.

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 10:56:25 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 16:34:31 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:23:42 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

Perhaps you might want to give up trying the fix the crappy drawers
and just make new ones. Pocket screws make it really simple. By
making a 4 sided box, you can put the old fronts on the new drawers
and everything will look the same. I've done it and couldn't be happier.

This is just one of the many videos showing how it's done. You can
DAGS for instructions, videos, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKVo-rLv-W8

I made the new drawers at least 4" longer than the original ones and
added full extension slides. I love 'em and more importantly, SWMBO
loves 'em too.

Excellent video. Kreg has a less expensive pocket screw jig (single)
than he used in the video (kit). I have the same 3N1 drill (Rockwell)

Good advice you provided.

SWMBO bought me the Kreg jig that he uses for Christmas. I made a base
similar to his which is especially useful for longer stock. I have
"out-riggers" on each side of the jig to keep the long stock level.

Another drawer trick that someone taught me was to make a frame for the
drawer slides. I have stick-built cabinets so there are no interior
walls to mount slides to. The original drawers just sat and slid on
wooden runners. By using these frames and setting them on the runners,
you can add full extension slides.

http://tinyurl.com/Drawer-Slide-Frame

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...hopBracket.jpg

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 2:23:42 PM UTC-6, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

I use glue and wood toothpicks to fill any holes that need repairing before I put the screws back in. Wood putty tends to disintegrate, while real the real wood stays in the holes and gives the screws something solid to "grab".

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 20:25:55 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 10:56:25 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 16:34:31 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:23:42 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

Perhaps you might want to give up trying the fix the crappy drawers
and just make new ones. Pocket screws make it really simple. By
making a 4 sided box, you can put the old fronts on the new drawers
and everything will look the same. I've done it and couldn't be happier.

This is just one of the many videos showing how it's done. You can
DAGS for instructions, videos, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKVo-rLv-W8

I made the new drawers at least 4" longer than the original ones and
added full extension slides. I love 'em and more importantly, SWMBO
loves 'em too.

Excellent video. Kreg has a less expensive pocket screw jig (single)
than he used in the video (kit). I have the same 3N1 drill (Rockwell)

Good advice you provided.

SWMBO bought me the Kreg jig that he uses for Christmas. I made a base
similar to his which is especially useful for longer stock. I have
"out-riggers" on each side of the jig to keep the long stock level.

Another drawer trick that someone taught me was to make a frame for the
drawer slides. I have stick-built cabinets so there are no interior
walls to mount slides to. The original drawers just sat and slid on
wooden runners. By using these frames and setting them on the runners,
you can add full extension slides.

http://tinyurl.com/Drawer-Slide-Frame

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...hopBracket.jpg

Link saved.

I put off buying the Kreg jigs early on. They just get better.

This one allows cross cut rips using a circ saw and a shelf pin jig.

Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-DIYKIT-DIY-Project-Kit/dp/B00MAB7XQ6/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1456637384&sr=1-6&keywords=kreg+jig

https://tinyurl.com/jg27a2t

And...tons of other tools for them. They just keep getting better an
more useful.

I'll have to commit soon

On Sunday, February 28, 2016 at 12:47:54 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 20:25:55 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 10:56:25 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 16:34:31 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:23:42 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
I've inherited my late mother's home. It's a park model home
(manufactured housing) and the cheapo particle board drawers are
disintegrating. I'm gluing/nailing/screwing them back together.

So far, I'm gluing particle board strips (3/8" wide), below the
drawer's side slots, back together with Titebond Premium (yel) wood
glue (water resistant). I need to extract the failing staples and
replace them with glue, screws, and 1" ring-shank panel nails. Also,
the screws holding the roller rails have pulled out of the particle
board sides. What is a good wood putty(?) brand to fill in the
stripped screw holes in the fiberboard drawer side panels?

nb

Perhaps you might want to give up trying the fix the crappy drawers
and just make new ones. Pocket screws make it really simple. By
making a 4 sided box, you can put the old fronts on the new drawers
and everything will look the same. I've done it and couldn't be happier.

This is just one of the many videos showing how it's done. You can
DAGS for instructions, videos, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKVo-rLv-W8

I made the new drawers at least 4" longer than the original ones and
added full extension slides. I love 'em and more importantly, SWMBO
loves 'em too.

Excellent video. Kreg has a less expensive pocket screw jig (single)
than he used in the video (kit). I have the same 3N1 drill (Rockwell)

Good advice you provided.

SWMBO bought me the Kreg jig that he uses for Christmas. I made a base
similar to his which is especially useful for longer stock. I have
"out-riggers" on each side of the jig to keep the long stock level.

Another drawer trick that someone taught me was to make a frame for the
drawer slides. I have stick-built cabinets so there are no interior
walls to mount slides to. The original drawers just sat and slid on
wooden runners. By using these frames and setting them on the runners,
you can add full extension slides.

http://tinyurl.com/Drawer-Slide-Frame

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...hopBracket.jpg

Link saved.

I put off buying the Kreg jigs early on. They just get better.

Yeah, I was going to buy a car back in the late 1700's but I'm still putting it off
because they just keep getting better. ;-)


This one allows cross cut rips using a circ saw and a shelf pin jig.

What's a "cross cut rip"?


Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-DIYKIT-DIY-Project-Kit/dp/B00MAB7XQ6/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1456637384&sr=1-6&keywords=kreg+jig

https://tinyurl.com/jg27a2t

And...tons of other tools for them. They just keep getting better an
more useful.

I don't consider that kit "better" than the the jig shown in the video. Yes, it has
a saw guide and pin hole jig, but the R3 pocket hole jig is a different animal
than the K4. One is more portable and can be used for on-site repairs, the other
is more of a bench top tool. When I made the 8 drawers for my kitchen, using the
K4 was much more convenient. I clamped the jig with the outrigger setup to
my workbench and just drilled, drilled, drilled.

A jig saw and a band saw both cut curves, but a kit that includes a jig saw and
a circular saw isn't better than a band saw. In other words, they are similar tools,
but they both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Just because the
jig saw is available in a kit with another saw doesn't make the kit "better" than a
band saw, even if the kit is cheaper.


I'll have to commit soon

....or never take adavantage of pocket hole joinery. :-)