On 1/6/2016 12:51 AM, Don Y wrote:


We *add* because I *bleed* off the excess pressure. Ambient has changed
~60F in the past 4 weeks.

As I stated elsewhere, TPMS claims tires are presently at 38/36 at 67F,
sitting in the garage for 6 hours (51F outside). In a few days, we'll be
at freezing when SWMBO heads off for an early morning class. A few
of weeks ago, 80 degrees in the afternoon. Two weeks ago, 21-24 at night.
In another couple of weeks, 80 will be the norm, again. Then, +10F every
month until we're at 110.

When the pressures are "in your face" (on the dash), you're less likely
to ignore those low *or* high pressures (than you would, otherwise, if
you had to manually check pressures!).

So, you pick a temperature and a pressure and *hope* the weather
stays reasonably constant. As all *I* can do is bleed pressure from
the tires, I have to rely on Costco to put it back in when the
temperatures fall (again).

I'd have it filled about 2 lb over the recommendation and just leave it.
I don't see the pressure unless I turn the screen t that page or if
there is a low warning. Tires have a pretty reasonable tolerance. No
sense going nuts over it

On 1/6/2016 1:04 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 12:51 AM, Don Y wrote:


We *add* because I *bleed* off the excess pressure. Ambient has changed
~60F in the past 4 weeks.

As I stated elsewhere, TPMS claims tires are presently at 38/36 at 67F,
sitting in the garage for 6 hours (51F outside). In a few days, we'll be
at freezing when SWMBO heads off for an early morning class. A few
of weeks ago, 80 degrees in the afternoon. Two weeks ago, 21-24 at night.
In another couple of weeks, 80 will be the norm, again. Then, +10F every
month until we're at 110.

When the pressures are "in your face" (on the dash), you're less likely
to ignore those low *or* high pressures (than you would, otherwise, if
you had to manually check pressures!).

So, you pick a temperature and a pressure and *hope* the weather
stays reasonably constant. As all *I* can do is bleed pressure from
the tires, I have to rely on Costco to put it back in when the
temperatures fall (again).

I'd have it filled about 2 lb over the recommendation and just leave it. I
don't see the pressure unless I turn the screen t that page or if there is a
low warning. Tires have a pretty reasonable tolerance. No sense going nuts
over it

We've never had a warning indicated. Instead, SWMBO started exploring the
various displays on the various screens shortly after purchase (makes sense
to familiarize yourself with a new vehicle). She then became fixated on
that display when she noticed the one tire losing pressure (i.e., she made
a point of checking it each day and noting that it didn't "track" the
other tires).

There are three screens/displays in the car. The one that shows tire
pressures shows very little else of interest -- the various odometers,
oil life, instantaneous fuel economy (also available on one of the other
screens), average speed/hours driven (on this tank of gas), etc.

It also shows some *dynamic* displays -- e.g., if you alter the
volume, channel, etc. on the sound system, that is displayed
briefly, overriding what would otherwise be displayed. I think
there is an option that allows the driving directions to appear
there ("turn left", "turn right", etc.). And, the lane departure
warning system uses it (we didn't opt to purchase that "toy").

It's much easier to keep the tire pressures "consistent" in the
non-winter months as the temperatures tend to vary less.

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 2:51:14 PM UTC-5, wrote:
DerbysDad wrote: "I assume the (non-rhetorical) answer is "the car co.?!"

Yes.

"So, why do you increase the pressure to 2 lbs above
"the car co.?!" recommendation? In other words, how do
*your* driving habits differ from how "the car co.?!"
thinks that "specific model car" will be driven, such
that you feel the need for 2 lb increase? "

In a lot of cases car mfgs specify pressures
tuned more for ride than for handling, etc
In my personal experience I've noticed
that exactly at those specs, more shoulder
wear. So I pump a few extra PSI into them
and hit that sweet spot.

Still others recommend the "chalk" test, where
you make chalk lines across the treads, drive,
and adjust the pressure until the chalk line
wears most evenly. Check the pressures at
that point, and write them down as ideal for
your machine.

Makes sense.

I run about 2 lbs over the pillar sticker also.

In the winter, I run 3 over. It may not make a
difference, but it makes me feel better to have
a slightly smaller footprint.

On my (daughter's) 07 Civic, the only vehicle
that I can run minus one wheels on, I do that
for her snows.

SWMBO just picked up (stole!) a pristine 03
Honda Element AWD (69K miles) that had never
seen salt until this month. It came with
Dextero DHT2's (Walmart). They are brand new
but I don't think she likes them, even in
the little bit of snow we have had. I'm torn
between a wheel and snow package vs. just
getting her some decent all-weather tires
and selling the DHT2's while they are still
in decent shape. I'm sure the DHT2's will wear
sooner than I'd like and I'll be replacing
them in a year or two anyway.

Don Y writes:
On 1/6/2016 12:33 PM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 11:49:30 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

On 1/6/2016 11:41 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 09:16:18 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

We can drive the 2 miles to Costco to have *them* put 95% N2 in the tires.

They do that for free?

Yes. A "membership benefit".

If you purchase tires from them, they will also rotate and fix
flats for free (though there are other "tire stores" who will
do likewise).

I wonder if SAMs does that? We have a SAMs nearby, but the nearest
CostCo is about 40 miles away.

No idea. We gave up our Sam's membership many years ago. I htink
there is *one* in town and it's a 30 minute drive. OTOH, there
are two Costco's, here, and one is ~2 miles from the house (I've
walked there in the past when I was headed to the Post Office)

We are saddened by their push to put the Kirkland label on
everything. You'd think they would see how well that worked
for Penney's, Sears, etc.

They have always used the Kirkland label, for the 25 years I've
been a member.

I haven't seen any reduction in name brands, although they do switch
them from time to time. The Kirkland raisin bran was superior to
the Kellogs, but they've switched back to Kellogs now.

On 1/6/2016 1:52 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Don Y writes:
On 1/6/2016 12:33 PM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 11:49:30 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

On 1/6/2016 11:41 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 09:16:18 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

We can drive the 2 miles to Costco to have *them* put 95% N2 in the tires.

They do that for free?

Yes. A "membership benefit".

If you purchase tires from them, they will also rotate and fix
flats for free (though there are other "tire stores" who will
do likewise).

I wonder if SAMs does that? We have a SAMs nearby, but the nearest
CostCo is about 40 miles away.

No idea. We gave up our Sam's membership many years ago. I htink
there is *one* in town and it's a 30 minute drive. OTOH, there
are two Costco's, here, and one is ~2 miles from the house (I've
walked there in the past when I was headed to the Post Office)

We are saddened by their push to put the Kirkland label on
everything. You'd think they would see how well that worked
for Penney's, Sears, etc.

They have always used the Kirkland label, for the 25 years I've
been a member.

I haven't seen any reduction in name brands, although they do switch
them from time to time. The Kirkland raisin bran was superior to
the Kellogs, but they've switched back to Kellogs now.

Copper River salmon has been replaced by Kirkland's brand.
Planters Peanuts by Kirkland.

[These two come to mind quickest as they are on the list of items
to purchase this week at Sam's]

"Kirkland" doesn't make anything. For the most part, they REBRAND
other products.

The argument goes that Kirkland (Costco) is "standing behind" the
brand -- so you shouldn't care whether they are buying their peanuts
from Planters, Goody's or Joe's House of Peanuts.

This gives them the freedom to play with quality and price (profit)
to *their* advantage. The difference between "them" and any other
"name brand" is that I am NOT free to purchase Kirkland products
elsewhere.

We tend to find brands that we like (Kirkland is not a "brand") and
stick to those -- until they screw up. Then, abandon them. (Sony
comes to mind).

So, when Costco decides "they" can brand a better product (which might
be the original vendor's product with Kirkland's name on it!), we just go
find the same original product, elsewhere.

[This is the reason behind most of our trips to Sam's, nowadays -- on a
neighbor's membership]

The same applies to Trader Joe's. SWMBO has enjoyed many of "their"
products, over the years. Then, they discontinue them (no doubt because
it makes economic sense FOR THEM -- hopefully, the customer will adopt
some OTHER of their products as a replacement. If not... shrug).

This is where we "learned" the approach of just taking "dropped"
businesses elsewhere. The latest TJ "losses" include their sherry
(we use a lot in our meals) and their Vegetarian Chili. The former
we just opted to *pick* another supplier (criteria: must not be TJ's),
The latter, we now purchase the exact same chili under it's REAL NAME:
"Amy's".

[Currently, they are trying to up-sell cauliflower to the organic variety
so those purchases will move, as well.]

Prior to that, their dark chocolate covered almonds in cocoa powder
(I now make these by hand, having not been able to find a suitable
vendor), their coffee-flavored candy (they dropped one of the flavors),
their bean salad, etc.

I.e., if you are going to make me find an alternative, then why would
I want to reward you by choosing one of YOUR alternatives?

This year, we will probably drop our "executive membership" at costco
in favor of a standard "business" membership. The "rewards" won't
cover the additional cost of the premium membership!

posted for all of us...



On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 23:52:03 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/5/2016 10:06 PM, Don Y wrote:


We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!



I use 80% nitrogen.

Adding every week or two seems like a lot of seepage. I've not had a
car yet that could not go 3 - 4 months

Yeah I use that 80% stuff too and I have a machine in my garage that
seems to make it virtually for free
I seldom have to add air unless I have a (problem) leak.
One thing about my wife's Lincoln is that sensor does not turn off
right away, you have to drive a little ways. Trust your gauge.

heh heh heh

--
Tekkie

posted for all of us...



On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 21:24:28 -0700, rbowman wrote:

On 01/05/2016 06:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it
annoys me to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this
is a common happening for the first really cold snap.

The rims I have the studs mounted on don't have the sensors so the
yellow light is on all winter. I find it very easy to ignore, but if it
really bothers you try about 1/2" of electrical tape.

I dont know where those sensors are located or how they connect from a
rotating tire to a wire???? I never had a car with them, and hope not to
ever have one. Just sounds like more worthless **** to cause problems.

However, I'd guess that wherever they connect to a wire, you can
probably just ground the wire to turn off the light.

I guess you never thought of DAGS did you? I thought not.

--
Tekkie

On 1/6/2016 3:30 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 21:24:28 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

On 01/05/2016 06:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive,
but it annoys me to have that yellow light on when driving. I
understand this is a common happening for the first really cold
snap.

The rims I have the studs mounted on don't have the sensors so
the yellow light is on all winter. I find it very easy to ignore,
but if it really bothers you try about 1/2" of electrical tape.

I dont know where those sensors are located or how they connect
from a rotating tire to a wire???? I never had a car with them, and
hope not to ever have one. Just sounds like more worthless **** to
cause problems.

However, I'd guess that wherever they connect to a wire, you can
probably just ground the wire to turn off the light.

I guess you never thought of DAGS did you? I thought not.

LOL! Do his own research? Ah, you kill me. That's funny.

In article op.yasrarc96w0fur@deans-air,
"Dean Hoffman" wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 19:43:03 -0600, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Newer cars have a TPMS and warn you when the pressure gets low. Now that
cold weather is here,check to see that your tire is at least the
recommended pressure. I forgot about it and this morning it was 7
degrees. One tire was 1 pound under and set off the warning. It would
not reset after driving as it had to come up even more than driving did.
Filled it up when I got home.

Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it
annoys me to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this
is a common happening for the first really cold snap.

I had the same thing over New Years. The little screen with the
odometer
kept running a message to check tire pressure. The tire shaped orange
thing
on another part of the instrument panel wasn't enough warning. It was
several
weeks since I drove my Frontier. All four were a bit low.
Aluminum wheels can also cause pressure loss. I guess the aluminum
oxidizes breaking the tight seal between tire and rim. I've had it
happen a couple times on my car.

I have no idea of the tire problems, but Aluminum oxidizes (rusts) as
soon as it hits air, and then wouldn't the wheels be fully oxidized
before the tire was even put on?

--
charles

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 11:14:44 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:

Not sure when they were required ,but if you get a car that was sold new
in
the US in about the last 10 years it will have it.

...snip...

"About" may be the operative word in your statement. However, it's
not only a year issue, but also a make, model and trim level issue.

My 06 and 07 Honda's do not have TPMS.

I have an 06 Odyssey EX-L. The 06 Odyssey only had TPMS on the
highest trim level, the Touring. In fact, that trim came with a
special Michelin PAX run-flat tire, the only choice of tire and
wheel that you could get. So many people hated them (or actually
hated the cost to replace them once worn) that there are threads
in Honda forums explaining the procedure to "De-PAX" the Odyssey
by using Acura wheels and TPMS sensors.

As far as my (daughter's) 07 Civic, TPMS wasn't available
on any Civic trim level in 2007.

It looks like 2008 was when Honda began using TPMS on all trim
levels for the Civic and Odyssey.

Here is the government rule on the TPMS. While not 10 years ago, not too
far from it.
Compliance Date:? Consistent with the phase-in commencing October 5, 2005,
all new light vehicles must be equipped with a TPMS that meets the
requirements of the standard by September 1, 2007, with the following
exceptions. Vehicle manufacturers need not meet the standard?s requirements
for the TPMS malfunction indicator and related owner?s manual language until
September 1, 2007 (i.e., at the end of the phase-in), and vehicles produced
by final-stage manufacturers and alterers must be equipped with a compliant
TPMS (including a malfunction indicator) by September 1, 2008. However,
manufacturers may voluntarily certify vehicles to FMVSS No. 138 and earn
carry-forward credits for compliant vehicles, produced in excess of the
phase-in requirements, that are manufactured between April 8, 2005, and the
conclusion of the phase-in.

On 1/6/2016 4:21 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 1/6/2016 11:41 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 09:16:18 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

We can drive the 2 miles to Costco to have *them* put 95% N2 in the
tires.

They do that for free?

Yes. A "membership benefit".

If you purchase tires from them, they will also rotate and fix
flats for free (though there are other "tire stores" who will
do likewise).

That is what Tire Discount does for me. The other week my wife ran over
something and it bent the edge of the rim. I took a new rim to Discount
Tire and they removed the old rim and replaced it with the new one, also
rotated the tires and put the spare back in the trunk and replaced all the
jacking equipment that I had left loose in the trunk.
No charge.

One day I was there getting the tires rotated and they fixed a flat for free
for another person.

Yes, we have a Discount Tire chain, here (with a store a block away from
this Costco) that has similar policies. When we purchased rubber for the
last vehicle(s), it was a toss-up on price and benefits between Costco
and Discount Tire. We opted for Costco as we interact with those people
more often (many of whom recognize us and/or know us by name) and the few
bucks the added buying affords us in our annual "rebate".

And, as we are *there* every week (not at the Discount Tire place down the
block), it makes this sort of thing (topping off tire pressure) more
convenient. The "cost" being a few extra minutes sitting in the car
while the tires are topped off BEFORE we go to park the vehicle.

[We don't do it AFTER our shopping as we typically have perishable
items that would like to get home ASAP]

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 1/6/2016 11:41 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 09:16:18 -0700, Don Y
wrote in

We can drive the 2 miles to Costco to have *them* put 95% N2 in the
tires.

They do that for free?

Yes. A "membership benefit".

If you purchase tires from them, they will also rotate and fix
flats for free (though there are other "tire stores" who will
do likewise).


That is what Tire Discount does for me. The other week my wife ran over
something and it bent the edge of the rim. I took a new rim to Discount
Tire and they removed the old rim and replaced it with the new one, also
rotated the tires and put the spare back in the trunk and replaced all the
jacking equipment that I had left loose in the trunk.
No charge.

One day I was there getting the tires rotated and they fixed a flat for free
for another person.

On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 21:32:08 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 20:06:49 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 6:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Newer cars have a TPMS and warn you when the pressure gets low. Now that cold
weather is here,check to see that your tire is at least the recommended
pressure. I forgot about it and this morning it was 7 degrees. One tire was 1
pound under and set off the warning. It would not reset after driving as it had
to come up even more than driving did. Filled it up when I got home.

Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it annoys me
to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this is a common
happening for the first really cold snap.

We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!

[I think it's 1 psi per 10 degrees F?]

And, the Costco tire droids want to "overfill" by ~3 psi claiming
the tires are "hot" now that you've driven on them. So, instead
of 35/33 psi, they'll fill to 38/36 psi. Then, the ambient
temperature climbs 40 or 50 degrees and the tires are considerably
overinflated.

So, bleed out some nitrogen to bring them down to ~40/38 ("hot")
and hope we don't get another cold day to bring them *down*, too far.
If you are getting that kind of pressure change they are NOT using
nitrogen

Nitrogen is very thermally stable pressure-wize,The calculations for
this change are based on the Ideal Gas Law. A good rule of thumb is
this: For every 10 F degree change in temperature, the pressure will
change by 1.9%. With dry nitrogen,if a tire is filled to 32 psi at a
temperature of 75 F degrees and the temperature drops 10 degrees, the
tire pressure will drop to 31.4 psi; a difference of .6 psi. If filled
at 65 degrees to 32psi, and driven untill the tire temp is 95 degrees,
the pressure will rise to 33.8psi

A 50 degree temp rise will only add 3psi - which is no problem at all.

With air which contains moisture, you will get more pressure change.,
but not a huge amount.

My hunch is leakage. TPMS set without proper torque when installed can
leak air. I have TPMS on summer and winter tires on separate OEM rims. Never
have such problem. I usually over inflate by 5% or so. You'd feel the
ride is deffirent over inflating by ~10% or so.
10% ovderinflation is peanuts.
Most cars ride and handle much better (and tires last longer)
with10-15% overinflation. Spec on my Taurus is 32. I run a minimum of
36 - usually 38PSI Stops the "tucking" on turns and makes it handle a
whole lot nicer. Doesn't hurt the ride either.

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 23:59:13 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 20:43:03 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Newer cars have a TPMS and warn you when the pressure gets low. Now that
cold weather is here,check to see that your tire is at least the
recommended pressure. I forgot about it and this morning it was 7
degrees. One tire was 1 pound under and set off the warning. It would
not reset after driving as it had to come up even more than driving did.
Filled it up when I got home.

Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it
annoys me to have that yellow light on when driving.

I guess a car that can give you everything you want can annoy you
about anything you've got.

I understand this
is a common happening for the first really cold snap.

And somehow it does better after the first one? How is that?
Real cold summer or all season tires harden up enough to leak at the
rim/bead juncture - but they don't get any better as the cold weather
progresses. Keepint them slightly overinflated keeps them from rolling
sideways as much and can reduce the pressure loss significantly.

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 22:10:40 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 9:18 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 20:06:49 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 6:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Newer cars have a TPMS and warn you when the pressure gets low. Now that cold
weather is here,check to see that your tire is at least the recommended
pressure. I forgot about it and this morning it was 7 degrees. One tire was 1
pound under and set off the warning. It would not reset after driving as it had
to come up even more than driving did. Filled it up when I got home.

Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it annoys me
to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this is a common
happening for the first really cold snap.

We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!

[I think it's 1 psi per 10 degrees F?]

And, the Costco tire droids want to "overfill" by ~3 psi claiming
the tires are "hot" now that you've driven on them. So, instead
of 35/33 psi, they'll fill to 38/36 psi. Then, the ambient
temperature climbs 40 or 50 degrees and the tires are considerably
overinflated.

So, bleed out some nitrogen to bring them down to ~40/38 ("hot")
and hope we don't get another cold day to bring them *down*, too far.
If you are getting that kind of pressure change they are NOT using
nitrogen

Nitrogen is very thermally stable pressure-wize,The calculations for
this change are based on the Ideal Gas Law. A good rule of thumb is
this: For every 10 F degree change in temperature, the pressure will
change by 1.9%. With dry nitrogen,if a tire is filled to 32 psi at a
temperature of 75 F degrees and the temperature drops 10 degrees, the
tire pressure will drop to 31.4 psi; a difference of .6 psi. If filled
at 65 degrees to 32psi, and driven untill the tire temp is 95 degrees,
the pressure will rise to 33.8psi

A 50 degree temp rise will only add 3psi - which is no problem at all.

It's 30 degrees. Tire monkey inflates tires to 38/36 psi (instead of 35/33).

*Ambient* changes by 50 degrees -- to 80F (the next afternoon). By *your*
numbers, expect a 10% change in tire pressures: 41.8/39.6

The problem is the naive "+3" that the tire monkey uses to bias the
"hot" temperature of the tire. He's factoring in a ~10% increase even
though the tires *probably* haven't risen 50 degrees in the 2 miles from
our home to the store over *cold* asphalt.

E.g., car claims it is 67F in the garage, now. It's been sitting there for
at least 6 hours. TPMS claims 38/36 as current pressures.

Tomorrow AM we'll expect 50 for a low -- with a high of 60. Saturday morning,
we'll touch freezing (we've already been down to 21). Last month, we were
seeing 80. Temperatures around town vary by ~10F (currently, 48-56F).
When we purchased the car, it was 110F. So, sitting in the garage these
past four months, the car experiences an 90F swing in temperatures -- before
rolling friction is taken into account.

Pick an inflation pressure. Then, expect to change it pretty regularly
(or live with under/overinflated tires in SOME set of conditions).

With air which contains moisture, you will get more pressure change.,
but not a huge amount.

No big deal. I virtually ALWAYS over-inflate my tires according to the
placard. by at least 10% (at 70 degree F nominal temps)

My tires see temp swings of up to 130F degrees (or even slightly more)
over the year, not taking into account the heat buildup from driving
flex etc..

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 22:51:27 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/5/2016 10:06 PM, Don Y wrote:


We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!

I use 80% nitrogen.

Adding every week or two seems like a lot of seepage. I've not had a car yet
that could not go 3 - 4 months

We *add* because I *bleed* off the excess pressure. Ambient has changed
~60F in the past 4 weeks.

As I stated elsewhere, TPMS claims tires are presently at 38/36 at 67F,
sitting in the garage for 6 hours (51F outside). In a few days, we'll be
at freezing when SWMBO heads off for an early morning class. A few
of weeks ago, 80 degrees in the afternoon. Two weeks ago, 21-24 at night.
In another couple of weeks, 80 will be the norm, again. Then, +10F every
month until we're at 110.

When the pressures are "in your face" (on the dash), you're less likely
to ignore those low *or* high pressures (than you would, otherwise, if
you had to manually check pressures!).

So, you pick a temperature and a pressure and *hope* the weather
stays reasonably constant. As all *I* can do is bleed pressure from
the tires, I have to rely on Costco to put it back in when the
temperatures fall (again).
Do yourself a favour and "chill out" A 15% overinflation will do
absolutely NO damage to your car or tires. As long as all 4 tires
increase and decrease pressure together you have absolutely nothing to
worry about. A small amount of underinflation is a lot worse than a
moderate (but much larger) overinflation.

If only we all had nothing more serious to worry about!!!!!

On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 03:49:41 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 21:24:28 -0700, rbowman wrote:

On 01/05/2016 06:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it
annoys me to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this
is a common happening for the first really cold snap.

The rims I have the studs mounted on don't have the sensors so the
yellow light is on all winter. I find it very easy to ignore, but if it
really bothers you try about 1/2" of electrical tape.

I dont know where those sensors are located or how they connect from a
rotating tire to a wire???? I never had a car with them, and hope not to
ever have one. Just sounds like more worthless **** to cause problems.

However, I'd guess that wherever they connect to a wire, you can
probably just ground the wire to turn off the light.
Wireless RF connection. No wires to ground.

On Wed, 6 Jan 2016 04:57:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Part of the problem is a lot those TPMS were
calibrated to come on just below the max cold
pressure on the OEM TIRES, not below what
was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker, which is where
I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above.


Of course, in this enlightened age second decade
of the new millennium, you'd think both mfgs and
mechanics would know better, but no. Now I have
ASE Certified technicians telling me, on newsgroups
like this, and in person, to go by the cold inflation
pressure on the basketba- I mean - TIRES. That
the B-pillar door sticker pressures are "too low".
Who knows more about how a specific model car
will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!


Needless to say I never let any tech or mechanic
TOUCH my tire pressures, or my wife's except when
having new tires put on.

For best handling and tire life the "B" pillsr pressures generally
ARE too low - but the maximum cold tire inflation pressure on the
sidewall is often too high for comfort/traction/wear.

The factory pressures are a compromise between
noise/vibration/harshness issues, tire life, ride, and handling.

On Wed, 6 Jan 2016 05:31:58 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 7:57:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Part of the problem is a lot those TPMS were
calibrated to come on just below the max cold
pressure on the OEM TIRES, not below what
was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker, which is where
I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above.

This part of your sentence doesn't make sense:

"not below what was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker,
which is where I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above."

There's a serious grammatical issue there.

You keeps your tires 2 lbs above *what*? The PSI
on the tire? The PSI on the pillar? Is the PSI on
the pillar 2 lbs above the PSI on the tire? Something
else?

What exactly are you saying?




Of course, in this enlightened age second decade
of the new millennium, you'd think both mfgs and
mechanics would know better, but no. Now I have
ASE Certified technicians telling me, on newsgroups
like this, and in person, to go by the cold inflation
pressure on the basketba- I mean - TIRES. That
the B-pillar door sticker pressures are "too low".
Who knows more about how a specific model car
will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!


Needless to say I never let any tech or mechanic
TOUCH my tire pressures, or my wife's except when
having new tires put on.
I thought what he said was pretty plain.
He CLAIMS the tpms is set 2 psi below the sidewall rating, where it
should be 2psi below the sticker rating.

He SAYS he runs his tires 2psi over the sticker rating, which is
still less than 2psi below the sidewall rating.

I guess he's too stupid to read his operators manual. He' (and most
of the rest of you) have never heard about TPMS calibration??????

You can calibrate your TPMS to just about any pressure you want on
virtually any car equipped with factory TPMS system

For a GM truck, here is the procedure.

1. Over-inflate all 4 tires to 50PSI. Leave the valve stem caps off.
2. Apply the parking brake on the truck.
3. Turn the key in the IGN to the ON position (not running)
4. Press and hold the LOCK & UNLOCK at the SAME TIME on your KeyFob
for approx. 3 seconds.
5. You will hear the horn chirp twice and if you have a DIC, it will
display something about the tire recalibration learning mode active.
6. Start with your DRIVERS SIDE FRONT wheel. Let air out of the tire
(deflate) for approx. 15-20 seconds (literally, it takes that long).
You will hear the horn chirp ONCE.
7. Next go to the PASSENGER SIDE FRONT wheel. Deflate for 15-20
seconds or until you hear the horn chip ONCE.
8. Next go to the PASSENGER SIDE REAR wheel. Deflate for 15-20
seconds or until you hear the horn chip ONCE.
9. Next go to the DRIVERS SIDE REAR wheel. Deflate for 15-20 seconds
or until you hear the horn chip TWICE.
10. Turn the key to the off position.
11. Inflate your tires to the proper PSI.
12. Turn your truck on and you should no longer have a TPMS light on
if all 4 sensors are working properly.

Notes: You have 2 minutes to do the first tire after putting the
truck into tire recalibration learning mode. It will time out after 2
minutes. You have 5 minutes to do all 4 tires before it times out.
You need to do this every time you rotate your wheels or your DIC
will think your front wheels are your rear wheels.


Now I don't want to hear any more moronic bitching about TPMS
systems!!!!

On 1/6/16 11:16 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/6/2016 7:18 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:


Have you actually ever *been* to a Costco? Or, are the ones in your part
of the world NOT as friendly as ours?

Actually I was a Costco member for a while some years back-- but once I
found out that Jim Sinegal was a co-founder and CEO at the time, I
returned my card and got a refund on my membership fee.

--
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a country. One is by the
sword, the other is by debt.
- John Adams

On Wed, 6 Jan 2016 09:15:42 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 1/6/2016 7:57 AM, wrote:
Part of the problem is a lot those TPMS were
calibrated to come on just below the max cold
pressure on the OEM TIRES, not below what
was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker, which is where
I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above.


Of course, in this enlightened age second decade
of the new millennium, you'd think both mfgs and
mechanics would know better, but no. Now I have
ASE Certified technicians telling me, on newsgroups
like this, and in person, to go by the cold inflation
pressure on the basketba- I mean - TIRES. That
the B-pillar door sticker pressures are "too low".
Who knows more about how a specific model car
will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!


Needless to say I never let any tech or mechanic
TOUCH my tire pressures, or my wife's except when
having new tires put on.


Reminds me, years ago, took my new car on a 1,000 mile trip and checked
tires a while later. They were set 10 lb above recommendation.
I questioned dealer about that and was told that they were set high at
factory for long ship ride and keeping in lots until sold to assure
pressure would not need to be increased. That was before TPMS.
And the dealer got paid to do a pre-delivery service - which
included resetting the tire pressures - and didn't do it.

Not a very good dealer.
I PDS'd hundreds of new cars during my career as a mechanic.

On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 08:29:04 -0600, CRNG
wrote:

On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 07:54:34 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote
in

On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 03:49:41 -0600, wrote:



I dont know where those sensors are located or how they connect from a
rotating tire to a wire???? I never had a car with them, and hope not to
ever have one. Just sounds like more worthless **** to cause problems.


They can be quite handy to have. Tires, especially low profile don't
always tell you the actual pressure from appearance and I don't know
anyone that checks with a gauge every day. I had one go off on my
last car so I added some air. Next day, the tire did not look low,
but it was. The light tipped my off.

Yeah, that's something else I noticed about the low-profile tires. I
really don't like them at all. Any opinions as to why manufactures
switched to them? I'm guessing they are cheaper.


No. they are more expensive. They install them because people think
they are "sporty" Big honking "DUB" style rims with low profile tires
give you a more "direct" steering feel because the sidewalls don't
flex as much (is the theory). The reduced sidewall comliance makes
them ride like a plank wagon (is the reality), and any time you hit a
pothole at any speed they get to sell you a new tire AND rim because
the tire cannot protect the rim.

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
Yes, we have a Discount Tire chain, here (with a store a block away from
this Costco) that has similar policies. When we purchased rubber for the
last vehicle(s), it was a toss-up on price and benefits between Costco
and Discount Tire. We opted for Costco as we interact with those people
more often (many of whom recognize us and/or know us by name) and the few
bucks the added buying affords us in our annual "rebate".

And, as we are *there* every week (not at the Discount Tire place down the
block), it makes this sort of thing (topping off tire pressure) more
convenient. The "cost" being a few extra minutes sitting in the car
while the tires are topped off BEFORE we go to park the vehicle.

[We don't do it AFTER our shopping as we typically have perishable
items that would like to get home ASAP]

There are no Cosco stores near me and Sams Club is far enough away that we
seldom get there. We were a member, but moved about 20 miles away so let it
go.

On 01/06/2016 01:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Yes, it's much better than as originally written.
Thank you. It does, however, raise another question.

You (rhetorically) asked:

"Who knows more about how a specific model car
will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!"

I assume the (non-rhetorical) answer is "the car co.?!"

So, why do you increase the pressure to 2 lbs above
"the car co.?!" recommendation? In other words, how do
*your* driving habits differ from how "the car co.?!"
thinks that "specific model car" will be driven, such
that you feel the need for 2 lb increase?

The auto company recommendations are written by lawyers
to protect the auto company from litigation.

I know a guy that runs 46 psi in his car tires. He claims
the increased fuel mileage more than offsets the decreased
tire life. OTOH, I would think 46 psi would yield poor
braking performance...not a trade-off I'd be willing to make.

On 1/6/2016 6:34 PM, wrote:
Do yourself a favour and "chill out" A 15% overinflation will do
absolutely NO damage to your car or tires. As long as all 4 tires
increase and decrease pressure together you have absolutely nothing to
worry about. A small amount of underinflation is a lot worse than a
moderate (but much larger) overinflation.

If only we all had nothing more serious to worry about!!!!!


I guess in the USA, we can worry about politics. Who
will be the next leader of the free world?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/6/2016 6:47 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 1/6/16 11:16 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/6/2016 7:18 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:


Have you actually ever *been* to a Costco? Or, are the ones in your part
of the world NOT as friendly as ours?

Actually I was a Costco member for a while some years back-- but once I
found out that Jim Sinegal was a co-founder and CEO at the time, I
returned my card and got a refund on my membership fee.


Who? What?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/6/2016 2:50 PM, Don Y wrote:


We are saddened by their push to put the Kirkland label on
everything. You'd think they would see how well that worked
for Penney's, Sears, etc.

Also, their push to up-sell is becoming far too obvious.

We go to BJ's, similar setup. They have converted a lot of products to
their Berkley & Jensen brand. They are identical to the name brand and
a little cheaper. I don't hesitate to buy their brand. I've always
heard good things about Kirkland too. Have you tried them?

On 1/6/2016 3:15 PM, Don Y wrote:


We've never had a warning indicated. Instead, SWMBO started exploring the
various displays on the various screens shortly after purchase (makes sense
to familiarize yourself with a new vehicle). She then became fixated on
that display when she noticed the one tire losing pressure (i.e., she made
a point of checking it each day and noting that it didn't "track" the
other tires).

How consistent do you expect it to be? Both front tires are the same,
both rear tires are the same, but are 2 psi higher than the front.
Close enough for me.

Remind her that 33 and 34 are really very close with rounding. 33.4
will read low and 33.5 will read high. Could drive you nuts trying to
get perfect reading with different temperatures.

Before you had a readout the pressures were probably much worse that
what you see. Put some black tape where the actual readout is.



And, the lane departure
warning system uses it (we didn't opt to purchase that "toy").

Came with one of the packages on my car. Once in a while it is
annoying, but other times it is handy. Could be a lifesaver if you were
to doze off. It will steer for me but alarms if you have your hands off
the wheel very long. This is my car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbjdmw8D9-Y

On 1/6/2016 4:09 PM, Don Y wrote:


Copper River salmon has been replaced by Kirkland's brand.
Planters Peanuts by Kirkland.

[These two come to mind quickest as they are on the list of items
to purchase this week at Sam's]

"Kirkland" doesn't make anything. For the most part, they REBRAND
other products.

As foes every grocery chain. Some do it better than others, most are
good quality, identical to the name brand.

The argument goes that Kirkland (Costco) is "standing behind" the
brand -- so you shouldn't care whether they are buying their peanuts
from Planters, Goody's or Joe's House of Peanuts.

This gives them the freedom to play with quality and price (profit)
to *their* advantage. The difference between "them" and any other
"name brand" is that I am NOT free to purchase Kirkland products
elsewhere.

True. They make more money but they usually sell it at a lower price
and save me money too. I'm in favor of that.


We tend to find brands that we like (Kirkland is not a "brand") and
stick to those -- until they screw up. Then, abandon them. (Sony
comes to mind).

So, when Costco decides "they" can brand a better product (which might
be the original vendor's product with Kirkland's name on it!), we just go
find the same original product, elsewhere.


I don't understand your thinking. Kirkland is a brand, just as all the
others. I judge by the quality of the product and value, not the name
on the label. Costco has a reputation to uphold so the sell quality
products. Over the years my job has taken me to many manufacturing and
processing factories. I've seen identical products coming down the line
but getting different labels and selling at different prices.

If they do change the quality, by all means change, but just because it
says Kirkland instead of Heinz or Del Monte does not mean it is not good.




I.e., if you are going to make me find an alternative, then why would
I want to reward you by choosing one of YOUR alternatives?

If the alternative is not as good, you are right. If the alternative is
the same product with a different label I'll reward myself by saving
money.

On 1/6/2016 7:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 3:15 PM, Don Y wrote:

We've never had a warning indicated. Instead, SWMBO started exploring the
various displays on the various screens shortly after purchase (makes sense
to familiarize yourself with a new vehicle). She then became fixated on
that display when she noticed the one tire losing pressure (i.e., she made
a point of checking it each day and noting that it didn't "track" the
other tires).

How consistent do you expect it to be? Both front tires are the same, both
rear tires are the same, but are 2 psi higher than the front. Close enough for me.

Remind her that 33 and 34 are really very close with rounding. 33.4 will read
low and 33.5 will read high. Could drive you nuts trying to get perfect
reading with different temperatures.

Not a question of watching to see that they "are the same". Rather,
noting that "the back left is lower than it was yesterday... and more
than the day before that... while the other ones are roughly the same
as they were".

I.e., if they will change, then they should change in similar fashion.
If they are to stay the same, then they should similarly stay the same.

The fact that the dealer was able to find a defect suggests the measurements
were accurate ("precise") enough for that sort of use.

Before you had a readout the pressures were probably much worse that what you
see. Put some black tape where the actual readout is.

Pay for something and then not use it? :

And, the lane departure
warning system uses it (we didn't opt to purchase that "toy").

Came with one of the packages on my car. Once in a while it is annoying, but
other times it is handy. Could be a lifesaver if you were to doze off. It will
steer for me but alarms if you have your hands off the wheel very long. This
is my car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbjdmw8D9-Y

The technologies that relied on the forward facing camera
(lane deviation, smart cruise control, something and somethingelse)
we deemed to be not worth the $1K adder. We drive almost exclusively
"in town". The car claims we have spent 99 hours and 59 minutes (!) in
the car, since purchase. It claims an average speed of 17MPH for that
usage.

At this rate, we'll hit 100K miles in about 20 years...

On 01/06/2016 02:09 PM, Don Y wrote:
Copper River salmon has been replaced by Kirkland's brand.

Never saw Copper River but I was buying Bear & Wolf and they went to a
Kirkland labeled can. it's still from Trident which owns Bear & Wolf and
from visual inspection is the same.

It's a little different than the Walmart house brands that usually say
something like 'The manufacturers of Gold Bond Medicated Powder deny all
responsibility and knowledge of this crap'.

On 1/6/2016 7:26 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 4:09 PM, Don Y wrote:
Copper River salmon has been replaced by Kirkland's brand.
Planters Peanuts by Kirkland.

[These two come to mind quickest as they are on the list of items
to purchase this week at Sam's]

"Kirkland" doesn't make anything. For the most part, they REBRAND
other products.

As foes every grocery chain. Some do it better than others, most are good
quality, identical to the name brand.

We don't buy "store brands" for the same reason.

There are several issues involved in a purchase decision:
- price
- quality
- availability
Store brands hide their suppliers. You'll never see a notice on
a store brand claiming "better supplier" -- or even DIFFERENT
supplier. So, each purchase is a crap shoot. They can tweek
the price by offering you a different (quality) product this week
and the "regular" product NEXT week, etc.

And, as it's a store brand, you have no way of comparing price/quality
to other suppliers/vendors.

I can't see if Kirkland peanuts are selling at a BETTER price at
Sam's club! And, if Costco is out of stock, there's nothing I
can do about it -- there are no "other vendors" for that product!

The argument goes that Kirkland (Costco) is "standing behind" the
brand -- so you shouldn't care whether they are buying their peanuts
from Planters, Goody's or Joe's House of Peanuts.

This gives them the freedom to play with quality and price (profit)
to *their* advantage. The difference between "them" and any other
"name brand" is that I am NOT free to purchase Kirkland products
elsewhere.

True. They make more money but they usually sell it at a lower price and save
me money too. I'm in favor of that.

When it comes to foodstuffs, there's no PRACTICAL amount of money that
I can save that will compensate for the time preparing the meal/item
only to be disappointed in the outcome.

If I make a cheesecake, I may put a few dollars worth of cream cheese, a
few dollars of canned fruit, and a couple of dollars of dry ingredients
into the bowl. Call it a $6 investment?

And 5 hours of my time. Imagine if I opted for a house-brand of any/all
of those ingredients and managed to save ALL SIX DOLLARS! And, five hours
later, realize I've got a piece of crap on my hands! It may be a cheesecake
but nowhere near the quality folks would expect from that effort on my part!

Likewise, I could buy Kirkland almonds to make SWMBO's chocolate covered
almonds. And, Kirkland's chocolate chips! And, painstakingly coat them
one at a time, roll them in cocoa powder and set them aside to dry.
After a few hours, have enough to justify the effort.

Then, the next day, discover that the almonds are hard and have little/no
flavor. Or, the chocolate is overly sweet. etc.

OTOH, I can use the ghiardelli dark chocolate, the imported almonds
and the dutch cocoa powder and be *sure* they're taste will reflect my effort.

I'll buy plastic trash can liners from Kirkland... and toilet paper!

We tend to find brands that we like (Kirkland is not a "brand") and
stick to those -- until they screw up. Then, abandon them. (Sony
comes to mind).

So, when Costco decides "they" can brand a better product (which might
be the original vendor's product with Kirkland's name on it!), we just go
find the same original product, elsewhere.

I don't understand your thinking. Kirkland is a brand, just as all the
others. I judge by the quality of the product and value, not the name on the
label. Costco has a reputation to uphold so the sell quality products. Over
the years my job has taken me to many manufacturing and processing factories.
I've seen identical products coming down the line but getting different labels
and selling at different prices.

You've never seen a firm producing two different grades of "the same"
product? One with their brand and another with a third-party brand?
Often, product is sorted "at test" into "good enough for our standards"
and "not good enough for us -- but good enough for the firm that has
hired us".

If they do change the quality, by all means change, but just because it says
Kirkland instead of Heinz or Del Monte does not mean it is not good.

I.e., if you are going to make me find an alternative, then why would
I want to reward you by choosing one of YOUR alternatives?

If the alternative is not as good, you are right. If the alternative is the
same product with a different label I'll reward myself by saving money.

How do you *know* its the same product with a different label?
Do you have a friend "on the inside"? Will it be the same product
next week? Or, will they have swapped to a different supplier
as no one *appeared* to notice the difference in quality?

The veggie chili I mentioned at TJ's has been out of stock for several
months, now. When you inquire, it's a "problem with our supplier".
Yet, the supplier (Amy's) has had no problem supplying other stores
with the *Amy's* branded product. So, the "problem" is most probably
one of cost/profit in TJ's eyes.

The sherry that we used to buy from them has been out of stock since
October. Two or three MONTHS to "acquire" something as simple as
sherry? I suspect yet another "problem" with THAT supplier.

Should we wait around for them to resolve these "problems"? Will
the new product actually be the same as the old product? Or, will
they have found yet another supplier to put THEIR name on?

Or, we could find another product that is available from a variety of
sources and shop for price between those. And, know that we won't
have to scramble to find the product at ONLY the one supplier (TJ's)

On 1/6/2016 6:34 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 2:50 PM, Don Y wrote:


We are saddened by their push to put the Kirkland label on
everything. You'd think they would see how well that worked
for Penney's, Sears, etc.

Also, their push to up-sell is becoming far too obvious.

We go to BJ's, similar setup. They have converted a lot of products to their
Berkley & Jensen brand. They are identical to the name brand and a little
cheaper. I don't hesitate to buy their brand. I've always heard good things
about Kirkland too. Have you tried them?

We don't buy any Kirkland-branded food products (SWMBO will buy their
frozen blueberries when fresh are hard to come by; and she turns her nose
up when forced to eat them). We used to buy a lot of chicken, there,
but went to regular supermarkets after one batch of Kirkland's "solution"
to that problem.

Over the years, our Costco purchases have steadily decreased in volume
and dollar amount. Typically, toilet paper, Kleenex (SWMBO doesn't like
Kirkland's tissues), Philly cream cheese, GM Cheerios (when I am feeling
nostalgic), Famous Dave's pickles, name-brand condiments, Fage yogurt,
Swift Premium (?) pork tenderloins, S&W crushed tomatoes (we no longer buy
tomato paste there because Kirkland has decided they can do it better
than the legacy suppliers), Hickman's eggs, etc.

Most baking supplies can be purchased for much less from regular grocers by
watching for sales. We pay much less for chicken than we ever did at
Costco by tracking sales. We buy Amaretto (for biscotti) in bulk at
the holidays for much less than Costco ever sold it (*when* they opted
to carry it!). We get bread products for less than Costco sells them
by visiting the "factory outlet store" down the road from us.

My attempt at Kirkland-brand bluejeans was very disappointing. I'm now
back to Levi's and Wrangler's at virtually the same price (by watching
for sales) but better quality.

If Costco went away, our food budget for some items would increase
(I'd make far fewer cheesecakes as buying that in 8 oz packages is
far too costly) but we wouldn't be stuck trying to find an alternate
supplier!

On 1/6/2016 9:36 PM, Don Y wrote:


Not a question of watching to see that they "are the same". Rather,
noting that "the back left is lower than it was yesterday... and more
than the day before that... while the other ones are roughly the same
as they were".

I.e., if they will change, then they should change in similar fashion.
If they are to stay the same, then they should similarly stay the same.

From my observation of the past couple of days, it is going to drive
you nuts. When I parked my car yesterday afternoon, after adding some
air, the two fronts were the same, the two rears were the same. This
morning at 19 degrees, all four had different readings. Driving 1/4 mile
had them all lower, Driving a couple of more miles had them out of sync
again. I know I have adequate pressure so I switched to a different
screen.

Given your average of 17 mph, tire pressure is even less worrisome.
Crusing for 5 hours on a hot highways it makes a difference.





The technologies that relied on the forward facing camera
(lane deviation, smart cruise control, something and somethingelse)
we deemed to be not worth the $1K adder. We drive almost exclusively
"in town". The car claims we have spent 99 hours and 59 minutes (!) in
the car, since purchase. It claims an average speed of 17MPH for that
usage.

At this rate, we'll hit 100K miles in about 20 years...

I put on about 22 to 23,000 a year. This year may be more as we plan to
take a 5000+ mild trip in the spring. The smart cruise control is
something I use every day and it works well. My favorite option the
past couple of days though, is the heated steering wheel.

On 1/6/2016 10:50 PM, Don Y wrote:

There are several issues involved in a purchase decision:
- price
- quality
- availability

So far we agree.


Store brands hide their suppliers. You'll never see a notice on
a store brand claiming "better supplier" -- or even DIFFERENT
supplier. So, each purchase is a crap shoot. They can tweek
the price by offering you a different (quality) product this week
and the "regular" product NEXT week, etc.

I've not found that to be true. I have found them to be as consistent
as the name brands.



And, as it's a store brand, you have no way of comparing price/quality
to other suppliers/vendors.

I can't see if Kirkland peanuts are selling at a BETTER price at
Sam's club! And, if Costco is out of stock, there's nothing I
can do about it -- there are no "other vendors" for that product!

Then I'd take an alternative, most like a name brand.



True. They make more money but they usually sell it at a lower price
and save
me money too. I'm in favor of that.

When it comes to foodstuffs, there's no PRACTICAL amount of money that
I can save that will compensate for the time preparing the meal/item
only to be disappointed in the outcome.

If I make a cheesecake, I may put a few dollars worth of cream cheese, a
few dollars of canned fruit, and a couple of dollars of dry ingredients
into the bowl. Call it a $6 investment?

While I agree in principle, I've not found it to be an issue. I often
buy a store brand cream cheese and it is just as good as the Kraft
product. Simple taste test would tell you to either stop or go ahead.



Likewise, I could buy Kirkland almonds to make SWMBO's chocolate covered
almonds. And, Kirkland's chocolate chips! And, painstakingly coat them
one at a time, roll them in cocoa powder and set them aside to dry.
After a few hours, have enough to justify the effort.

Then, the next day, discover that the almonds are hard and have little/no
flavor. Or, the chocolate is overly sweet. etc.

OTOH, I can use the ghiardelli dark chocolate, the imported almonds
and the dutch cocoa powder and be *sure* they're taste will reflect my
effort.

I'd not try a major thing like that unless I actually tried the
chocolate. There are many variations, some better, some not so. It is
also possible that the Kirkland chips are far better. Only one way to
find out.





You've never seen a firm producing two different grades of "the same"
product? One with their brand and another with a third-party brand?
Often, product is sorted "at test" into "good enough for our standards"
and "not good enough for us -- but good enough for the firm that has
hired us".

I don't shop at Aldi for that reason. Costco tends to sell top qujality
products, where Aldi is selling price. They would be more likely to
have the "good enough" stuff. I don't know that for certain, but they
advertise price more than anything. I know their meats are second rate
water injected stuff, Costco is not.




If the alternative is not as good, you are right. If the alternative
is the
same product with a different label I'll reward myself by saving money.

How do you *know* its the same product with a different label?
Do you have a friend "on the inside"? Will it be the same product
next week? Or, will they have swapped to a different supplier
as no one *appeared* to notice the difference in quality?


I don't know, but the usual price of admission is pretty cheap. Again,
Costco can be trusted to have good quality o I'll give it a try. Some
people prefer Hunt's ketchup over Heinz. That does not make one good,
the other bad. Just different.

The veggie chili I mentioned at TJ's has been out of stock for several
months, now. When you inquire, it's a "problem with our supplier".
Yet, the supplier (Amy's) has had no problem supplying other stores
with the *Amy's* branded product. So, the "problem" is most probably
one of cost/profit in TJ's eyes.

Could be that Amy does not have the capacity to do both. Could be a lot
of things. Often, when there is a problem with the supplier it means
"we didn't pay the bill", but could be a lot of reasons.

On 1/7/2016 9:21 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2016 9:36 PM, Don Y wrote:

Not a question of watching to see that they "are the same". Rather,
noting that "the back left is lower than it was yesterday... and more
than the day before that... while the other ones are roughly the same
as they were".

I.e., if they will change, then they should change in similar fashion.
If they are to stay the same, then they should similarly stay the same.

From my observation of the past couple of days, it is going to drive you

It's only going to be a problem in the winter months. Last night we
went out to pick up a few items. 46F and pressures were 39/37.
I have to just not let the tire monkeys decide what's "best" (based
on some naive "rule" they have adopted -- without regard to current
conditions at the time they go to fill the tires!)

nuts. When I parked my car yesterday afternoon, after adding some air, the two
fronts were the same, the two rears were the same. This morning at 19 degrees,
all four had different readings. Driving 1/4 mile had them all lower, Driving a
couple of more miles had them out of sync again. I know I have adequate
pressure so I switched to a different screen.

Given your average of 17 mph, tire pressure is even less worrisome. Crusing for
5 hours on a hot highways it makes a difference.

The technologies that relied on the forward facing camera
(lane deviation, smart cruise control, something and somethingelse)
we deemed to be not worth the $1K adder. We drive almost exclusively
"in town". The car claims we have spent 99 hours and 59 minutes (!) in
the car, since purchase. It claims an average speed of 17MPH for that
usage.

At this rate, we'll hit 100K miles in about 20 years...

I put on about 22 to 23,000 a year. This year may be more as we plan to take a
5000+ mild trip in the spring. The smart cruise control is something I use
every day and it works well. My favorite option the past couple of days
though, is the heated steering wheel.

Heat is something we *seldom* need! Aside from "formal functions", I don't
think I've ever worn a long sleeve shirt in the 20+ years I've lived here.
If I'm going to be outside, at night, in the cold (e.g., covering the citrus
trees for a cold spell), I'll put on a long-sleeve sweatshirt for the hour
or so I'll be exposed to 30-40F. The overnights when it dropped to 15F
I actually wore a winter jacket for that time in the yard -- 5 nights over
20+ years!

The other day, the placement of SWMBO's purse ended up turning on my seat
heater (stupid place for controls!). "WTF??! Why is my *ss getting warm??"

When shopping for cars, we saw many black-on-black models. I asked the
saleswoman at one place (we were test-driving a black-on-black unit)
"Who the hell buys a black car with a black interior in this part of
the country??" Her answer, "primarily Asians" (no idea *why*...)

We were annoyed that we couldn't get cloth seats in the cars we looked at.
So, we put *towels* on the leather seats (tacky).

On 1/7/2016 11:18 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Store brands hide their suppliers. You'll never see a notice on
a store brand claiming "better supplier" -- or even DIFFERENT
supplier. So, each purchase is a crap shoot. They can tweek
the price by offering you a different (quality) product this week
and the "regular" product NEXT week, etc.

I've not found that to be true. I have found them to be as consistent as the
name brands.

Having worked in industries that engaged in these practices (as a QC tech
in one!), I know that to be the case. "Against which specifications am
I checking *this* lot? Ours? Or, someone else's??"

And, as it's a store brand, you have no way of comparing price/quality
to other suppliers/vendors.

I can't see if Kirkland peanuts are selling at a BETTER price at
Sam's club! And, if Costco is out of stock, there's nothing I
can do about it -- there are no "other vendors" for that product!

Then I'd take an alternative, most like a name brand.

True. They make more money but they usually sell it at a lower price
and save
me money too. I'm in favor of that.

When it comes to foodstuffs, there's no PRACTICAL amount of money that
I can save that will compensate for the time preparing the meal/item
only to be disappointed in the outcome.

If I make a cheesecake, I may put a few dollars worth of cream cheese, a
few dollars of canned fruit, and a couple of dollars of dry ingredients
into the bowl. Call it a $6 investment?

While I agree in principle, I've not found it to be an issue. I often buy a
store brand cream cheese and it is just as good as the Kraft product. Simple
taste test would tell you to either stop or go ahead.

I don't eat cream cheese. Nor the cheese cake that I make.
And, there's no guarantee that what it tastes like today
(with the vendor du jour) will be the same as what it will
taste like next time.

Do you really think they buy their milk from the same dairies
each time they bring in a batch to sell?

I make marinara/bolognese sauce in 16 qt batches. It takes
~12-14 hours for me to get an *idea* as to what it will taste like
after it WILL HAVE a chance to "sit" for a few days. I sure don't
want to drop "random-tomato-product" into the sauce and HOPE
that 12 hours later I *think* it will be worth the time and
effort expended.

When I moved here, it took me many months to come up with a new
Rx for my sauce because the tomato product vendor of choice
wasn't available here. That's a lot of wasted effort, cost and
"substandard meals"!

Let's assume Kirkland's tomato products are BETTER than the competition!
Then, Kirkland decides to stop selling them. Where do I go to purchase
them? Do I now have to try all the other brands -- even the OBSCURE
ones -- in the hope of rediscovering Kirkland's supplier?

As I said, the "pennies" saved by buying a Kirkland-branded product
don't compensate for the risk in time expended using that product!

If Kirkland's TP disappoints me, I can throw it all out and I've only
"lost" that "one, disappointing WIPE". If Kirkland's trash bags
disappoint me (tear too easily), I've, at most, got one 10G bag of
trash to pick up off the floor -- and one box of trash bags to
discard. If Kirkland's "plastic cling wrap" disappoints, I walk
across the street and borrow some "Saran" wrap until I can buy
some at a non-Costco store.

Note that it's not that we're biased against Costco/Kirkland but,
rather, against house brands -- that, for the most part, originate
to meet a price point, not a "quality point". (You don't really
think Costco decided "No one makes toilet paper that is good enough
for our high standards! We'll have to offer our own brand in order
to meet the needs of our customers!").

So, we don't buy Kroger, Kirkland, TJ's, etc.

Likewise, I could buy Kirkland almonds to make SWMBO's chocolate covered
almonds. And, Kirkland's chocolate chips! And, painstakingly coat them
one at a time, roll them in cocoa powder and set them aside to dry.
After a few hours, have enough to justify the effort.

Then, the next day, discover that the almonds are hard and have little/no
flavor. Or, the chocolate is overly sweet. etc.

OTOH, I can use the ghiardelli dark chocolate, the imported almonds
and the dutch cocoa powder and be *sure* they're taste will reflect my
effort.

I'd not try a major thing like that unless I actually tried the chocolate.
There are many variations, some better, some not so. It is also possible that
the Kirkland chips are far better. Only one way to find out.

So, each time I make something like that, I have to do a "test run"
BEFORE the "real event"? And how is that saving me anything??

The Ghiardelli chips have worked fine for years. And, now that Costco
no longer carries them, we buy them from Sam's or the local grocers
(when on sale, they are cheaper than Costco's were). Buying "brand name"
lets us cut the ties to Costco when they can't/won't meet the price
point -- without our having to change quality in the products we buy.

You've never seen a firm producing two different grades of "the same"
product? One with their brand and another with a third-party brand?
Often, product is sorted "at test" into "good enough for our standards"
and "not good enough for us -- but good enough for the firm that has
hired us".

I don't shop at Aldi for that reason. Costco tends to sell top qujality
products, where Aldi is selling price. They would be more likely to have the
"good enough" stuff. I don't know that for certain, but they advertise price
more than anything. I know their meats are second rate water injected stuff,
Costco is not.

I don't recall hearing the "Aldi" name, here. I think the major chains
are Whole Foods/Reay's, Fry's, Safeway, Albertson's. There used to be
"Abco" but they disappeared.

And, of course, all the various specialty stores that carry products
that the chains won't (e.g., we are sorely limited in the brands of
asian products that we can purchase at the supermarkets -- even the
largest ones).

If the alternative is not as good, you are right. If the alternative
is the
same product with a different label I'll reward myself by saving money.

How do you *know* its the same product with a different label?
Do you have a friend "on the inside"? Will it be the same product
next week? Or, will they have swapped to a different supplier
as no one *appeared* to notice the difference in quality?

I don't know, but the usual price of admission is pretty cheap. Again, Costco
can be trusted to have good quality o I'll give it a try. Some people prefer
Hunt's ketchup over Heinz. That does not make one good, the other bad. Just
different.

I long ago decided Hunts tomato products were too "heavy" tasting.
I won't use them in any of my Rx's -- even if it means paying a much higher
price at a store farther away.

E.g., I needed tomato paste for the batch of sauce I made a few nights
ago. Costco carried the S&W ground tomatoes -- but only "kirkland"
paste. So, I stopped in at the Albertson's along the route home and
made my Contadina purchase, there.

Costco *used* to offer these products. But doesn't. Do I really think
their reason was because Contadina's products WEREN'T OF HIGH ENOUGH QUALITY??

The veggie chili I mentioned at TJ's has been out of stock for several
months, now. When you inquire, it's a "problem with our supplier".
Yet, the supplier (Amy's) has had no problem supplying other stores
with the *Amy's* branded product. So, the "problem" is most probably
one of cost/profit in TJ's eyes.

Could be that Amy does not have the capacity to do both. Could be a lot of
things. Often, when there is a problem with the supplier it means "we didn't
pay the bill", but could be a lot of reasons.

It could be Amy is leaving that market. We've been watching availability
of "Amy" products (the chili, in particular) at OTHER (operative word!)
outlets in the months since TJ's started "having problems with their
supplier". We've had no problem obtaining it. Don't see the price
point moving (up or down) to suggest problems with profitability,
sales volume, etc.

The more likely reason is that TJ's wants a better price point based
on THEIR sales and its perceived value to THEM. Just like the
coffee flavored candies, canned bean salad, sherry, chocolate covered
almonds, nonorganic cauliflower, etc.

Maybe they just can't meet the payment terms. Maybe... ???
Regardless, by NOT being tied to an off-brand product, we can just
drive across the street and buy the products that we want THERE!

posted for all of us...



On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 21:32:08 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 20:06:49 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 6:43 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Newer cars have a TPMS and warn you when the pressure gets low. Now that cold
weather is here,check to see that your tire is at least the recommended
pressure. I forgot about it and this morning it was 7 degrees. One tire was 1
pound under and set off the warning. It would not reset after driving as it had
to come up even more than driving did. Filled it up when I got home.

Not a major deal as I knew the pressure was adequate to drive, but it annoys me
to have that yellow light on when driving. I understand this is a common
happening for the first really cold snap.

We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!

[I think it's 1 psi per 10 degrees F?]

And, the Costco tire droids want to "overfill" by ~3 psi claiming
the tires are "hot" now that you've driven on them. So, instead
of 35/33 psi, they'll fill to 38/36 psi. Then, the ambient
temperature climbs 40 or 50 degrees and the tires are considerably
overinflated.

So, bleed out some nitrogen to bring them down to ~40/38 ("hot")
and hope we don't get another cold day to bring them *down*, too far.
If you are getting that kind of pressure change they are NOT using
nitrogen

Nitrogen is very thermally stable pressure-wize,The calculations for
this change are based on the Ideal Gas Law. A good rule of thumb is
this: For every 10 F degree change in temperature, the pressure will
change by 1.9%. With dry nitrogen,if a tire is filled to 32 psi at a
temperature of 75 F degrees and the temperature drops 10 degrees, the
tire pressure will drop to 31.4 psi; a difference of .6 psi. If filled
at 65 degrees to 32psi, and driven untill the tire temp is 95 degrees,
the pressure will rise to 33.8psi

A 50 degree temp rise will only add 3psi - which is no problem at all.

With air which contains moisture, you will get more pressure change.,
but not a huge amount.

My hunch is leakage. TPMS set without proper torque when installed can
leak air. I have TPMS on summer and winter tires on separate OEM rims. Never
have such problem. I usually over inflate by 5% or so. You'd feel the
ride is deffirent over inflating by ~10% or so.
10% ovderinflation is peanuts.
Most cars ride and handle much better (and tires last longer)
with10-15% overinflation. Spec on my Taurus is 32. I run a minimum of
36 - usually 38PSI Stops the "tucking" on turns and makes it handle a
whole lot nicer. Doesn't hurt the ride either.

+1 *as usual*

--
Tekkie

posted for all of us...



On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 22:51:27 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/5/2016 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/5/2016 10:06 PM, Don Y wrote:


We're back at Costco every week or two having them add nitrogen to
the tires. On a cool day (30-ish in the AM), tire pressure (all
around) will be low. However, on a warm/normal day (80-ish in the PM),
pressures will be high -- TOO high if we'd added nitrogen on one of
those colder mornings!

I use 80% nitrogen.

Adding every week or two seems like a lot of seepage. I've not had a car yet
that could not go 3 - 4 months

We *add* because I *bleed* off the excess pressure. Ambient has changed
~60F in the past 4 weeks.

As I stated elsewhere, TPMS claims tires are presently at 38/36 at 67F,
sitting in the garage for 6 hours (51F outside). In a few days, we'll be
at freezing when SWMBO heads off for an early morning class. A few
of weeks ago, 80 degrees in the afternoon. Two weeks ago, 21-24 at night.
In another couple of weeks, 80 will be the norm, again. Then, +10F every
month until we're at 110.

When the pressures are "in your face" (on the dash), you're less likely
to ignore those low *or* high pressures (than you would, otherwise, if
you had to manually check pressures!).

So, you pick a temperature and a pressure and *hope* the weather
stays reasonably constant. As all *I* can do is bleed pressure from
the tires, I have to rely on Costco to put it back in when the
temperatures fall (again).
Do yourself a favour and "chill out" A 15% overinflation will do
absolutely NO damage to your car or tires. As long as all 4 tires
increase and decrease pressure together you have absolutely nothing to
worry about. A small amount of underinflation is a lot worse than a
moderate (but much larger) overinflation.

If only we all had nothing more serious to worry about!!!!!

Another +1 geez...

--
Tekkie

posted for all of us...



On Wed, 6 Jan 2016 05:31:58 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 7:57:34 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Part of the problem is a lot those TPMS were
calibrated to come on just below the max cold
pressure on the OEM TIRES, not below what
was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker, which is where
I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above.

This part of your sentence doesn't make sense:

"not below what was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker,
which is where I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above."

There's a serious grammatical issue there.

You keeps your tires 2 lbs above *what*? The PSI
on the tire? The PSI on the pillar? Is the PSI on
the pillar 2 lbs above the PSI on the tire? Something
else?

What exactly are you saying?




Of course, in this enlightened age second decade
of the new millennium, you'd think both mfgs and
mechanics would know better, but no. Now I have
ASE Certified technicians telling me, on newsgroups
like this, and in person, to go by the cold inflation
pressure on the basketba- I mean - TIRES. That
the B-pillar door sticker pressures are "too low".
Who knows more about how a specific model car
will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!


Needless to say I never let any tech or mechanic
TOUCH my tire pressures, or my wife's except when
having new tires put on.
I thought what he said was pretty plain.
He CLAIMS the tpms is set 2 psi below the sidewall rating, where it
should be 2psi below the sticker rating.

He SAYS he runs his tires 2psi over the sticker rating, which is
still less than 2psi below the sidewall rating.

I guess he's too stupid to read his operators manual. He' (and most
of the rest of you) have never heard about TPMS calibration??????

You can calibrate your TPMS to just about any pressure you want on
virtually any car equipped with factory TPMS system

For a GM truck, here is the procedure.

1. Over-inflate all 4 tires to 50PSI. Leave the valve stem caps off.
2. Apply the parking brake on the truck.
3. Turn the key in the IGN to the ON position (not running)
4. Press and hold the LOCK & UNLOCK at the SAME TIME on your KeyFob
for approx. 3 seconds.
5. You will hear the horn chirp twice and if you have a DIC, it will
display something about the tire recalibration learning mode active.
6. Start with your DRIVERS SIDE FRONT wheel. Let air out of the tire
(deflate) for approx. 15-20 seconds (literally, it takes that long).
You will hear the horn chirp ONCE.
7. Next go to the PASSENGER SIDE FRONT wheel. Deflate for 15-20
seconds or until you hear the horn chip ONCE.
8. Next go to the PASSENGER SIDE REAR wheel. Deflate for 15-20
seconds or until you hear the horn chip ONCE.
9. Next go to the DRIVERS SIDE REAR wheel. Deflate for 15-20 seconds
or until you hear the horn chip TWICE.
10. Turn the key to the off position.
11. Inflate your tires to the proper PSI.

+1000 you lead them to water...

--
Tekkie