I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak planking
installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I really
notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's because the
wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors, or because of
the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area, where winters are
normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually heats the house fine, but
now it takes an hour or so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater,
forced air, below in the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house
is 56 - 60, and overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak planking
installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I really
notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's because the
wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors, or because of
the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area, where winters are
normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually heats the house fine, but
now it takes an hour or so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater,
forced air, below in the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house
is 56 - 60, and overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than about 8
to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the floors.. Do be
sure that the vents under the house are closed so the air does not just flow
under it.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak
planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors,
or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area,
where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually
heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat the
house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight temps
were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in pink
stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away to find the
ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in pink
stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away to find the
ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

Yes, the attic. Not sure how large the joists are, but you need around 8 to
10 inches, more if in a cold area of the country. It is recommended from
one to two feet in the attic of cold weather areas.

Boris wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak
planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors,
or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area,
where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually
heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat the
house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight temps
were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in pink
stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away to find the
ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

I'd use rigid high density styrofoam panels between joists under floor.
You can use adhesive. Walls as well or batts.

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 5:40:01 PM UTC-5, Boris wrote:
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak planking
installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I really
notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's because the
wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors, or because of
the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area, where winters are
normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually heats the house fine, but
now it takes an hour or so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater,
forced air, below in the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house
is 56 - 60, and overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls.

Access to exterior walls, usually that isn't the problem. The problem
is the insulation would need to go in the walls and that doesn't have
good access. Considering it was built in 78, the wall cavity should
already have insulation, no?



I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

Assuming the studs you're talking about are the exterior wall studs,
how are you going to get easy access to put that insulation in?
Usually putting insulation between the joists in a crawlspace is
trivial compared to getting insulation into wall cavities. No
insulation in those exterior walls already?

Ralph Mowery explained :
"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak planking
installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I really
notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's because the
wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors, or because of
the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area, where winters are
normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually heats the house fine, but
now it takes an hour or so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater,
forced air, below in the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house
is 56 - 60, and overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than about 8 to
10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the floors.. Do be sure
that the vents under the house are closed so the air does not just flow under
it.

What if you don't have vents under the house, just a concrete slab?

Tony Hwang explained on 12/28/2015 :
Boris wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak
planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors,
or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area,
where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually
heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat the
house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight temps
were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in pink
stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away to find the
ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

I'd use rigid high density styrofoam panels between joists under floor.
You can use adhesive. Walls as well or batts.

We need insulated concrete here in Cali. It got down to 29 last night,
and is supposed to get down to 20 tonight.
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

trader_4 wrote in
:

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 5:40:01 PM UTC-5, Boris wrote:
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room,
and living room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red
oak planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors,
or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area,
where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually
heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat the
house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight temps
were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls.

Access to exterior walls, usually that isn't the problem. The problem
is the insulation would need to go in the walls and that doesn't have
good access. Considering it was built in 78, the wall cavity should
already have insulation, no?

Yes, the exterior of all living space is insulated. I'm talking about
exterior walls of the crawlspace. It is defined as a crawlspace, but
it's really tall. As a matter of fact, there's a standard size door that
connects it to the garage, both of which are below the first floor. From
the garage, I walk into the 'crawlspace'. It's a hoarder's paradise
under there. (Me no hoarder.) Anyway, the foundation sill has the
standard 2 x 4 on top of it, and on top of that are the 2 x 4 exterior
wall studs, unfinished (no sheetrock). The exterior is stucco. In some
places, these walls are 4' tall, and in others they are 8' tall. The
house is built on a slope. From the sidewalk view, the left side is
higher, and the land slopes down to the right. The right hand walls are
the taller ones.



I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4
(1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating
crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between all the
joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of
course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since it's doesn't
have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the insulation wouldn't
have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

Assuming the studs you're talking about are the exterior wall studs,
No, these are the unfinished (no sheetrock) exterior walls in the
crawlspace
how are you going to get easy access to put that insulation in?
Usually putting insulation between the joists in a crawlspace is
trivial compared to getting insulation into wall cavities. No
insulation in those exterior walls already?

Tony Hwang wrote in
:

Boris wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining
room, and living room, all of which are open to each other. I had
3/4" red oak planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if
it's because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay
area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace
usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to
heat the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the
garage). When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and
overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under
the new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the
new wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so
the air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in pink
stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away to find
the ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

I'd use rigid high density styrofoam panels between joists under
floor. You can use adhesive. Walls as well or batts.

Been looking at those, but the highest R factor I find is 5.89, and 2"
thick.

"Eagle" wrote in
:

Tony Hwang explained on 12/28/2015 :
Boris wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining
room, and living room, all of which are open to each other. I had
3/4" red oak planking installed over the existing plywood
subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if
it's because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F.
Bay area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my
furnace usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or
so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in
the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and
overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under
the new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the
new wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under
the entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the
wall studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot
about insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate
between all the joists, and others say best to insultate just
betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much
easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive,
since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so
the air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in
pink stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away
to find the ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

I'd use rigid high density styrofoam panels between joists under
floor. You can use adhesive. Walls as well or batts.

We need insulated concrete here in Cali. It got down to 29 last night,
and is supposed to get down to 20 tonight.
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

"Eagle" wrote in
:

Ralph Mowery explained :
"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and
living room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red
oak planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay
area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace
usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat
the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight
temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.

What if you don't have vents under the house, just a concrete slab?


Vents are to move air to control moisture in dirt crawlspaces. The
moisture comes from the ground. You shouldn't have any moisture issues.

On 12/28/2015 5:37 PM, Boris wrote:


I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?


You want to insulate both walls and floor. I'd use foam board with
adhesive to hold it on the floor above.

Heat's first propensity is to rise. Take care
of that first. The United States of America
remains in 2015 the most under and uninsulated
country on earth - residentially.

Boris wrote:
trader_4 wrote

Assuming the studs you're talking about are the exterior wall studs,
No, these are the unfinished (no sheetrock) exterior walls in the
crawlspace
how are you going to get easy access to put that insulation in?
Usually putting insulation between the joists in a crawlspace is
trivial compared to getting insulation into wall cavities. No
insulation in those exterior walls already?

Are there any water pipes in the crawl space ? If t'were me I'd insulate
the walls with batts between studs then add a 1" layer of foam on top of
that . I'd also lay down some poly sheet on the ground to help with moisture
control . They make automatic crawl space vents that open when it gets hot ,
you might want to put some in while you're down there .

--
Snag

On 12/28/2015 4:42 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 5:40:01 PM UTC-5, Boris wrote:
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and living
room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red oak planking
installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I really
notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's because the
wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the floors, or because of
the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay area, where winters are
normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace usually heats the house fine, but
now it takes an hour or so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater,
forced air, below in the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house
is 56 - 60, and overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the new
wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new wood
flooring, and to all exterior walls.

Access to exterior walls, usually that isn't the problem. The problem
is the insulation would need to go in the walls and that doesn't have
good access. Considering it was built in 78, the wall cavity should
already have insulation, no?



I can walk under the entire area.
The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall studs are 2 x 4 (1
3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about insulating crawlspaces, and
some say just need to insulate between all the joists, and others say
best to insultate just betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs
would be much easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less
expensive, since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

Assuming the studs you're talking about are the exterior wall studs,
how are you going to get easy access to put that insulation in?
Usually putting insulation between the joists in a crawlspace is
trivial compared to getting insulation into wall cavities. No
insulation in those exterior walls already?


Be clear about what you're trying to accomplish.
You made no mention of heating cost.
If your problem is that the floor is too cold and/or you'd like
reduced heating cost, insulate under it.
If you plan to inhabit the space, put something over it to contain
the insulation dust.
Look up the historical dewpoint.
You wanna make sure that you don't condense moisture on the underside
of the floor in summer. Vapor barrier may be required.

Now, you've just made the crawlspace colder. If there's anything in
there that's sensitive to cold, like plumbing, you may need to address
that with insulation or pipe tape or ????
Insulating the walls will help. I've lost track of the crawlspace
floor, but you also may need insulation and vapor barrier there too.
Depends on the ground temperature.

I'm in Oregon. If I close the air vents, the temperature under
my house is 55F or thereabouts year round.
My attic and crawlspace were insulated at the same time, so I don't
have any individual measurements of the effect on heating costs.
When I changed from carpet to fake wood floors, they felt colder,
but I'm not sure it made any actual difference in the heat lost/gained.
I fixed that problem with area rugs everywhere.

On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Heat's first propensity is to rise. Take care
of that first. The United States of America
remains in 2015 the most under and uninsulated
country on earth - residentially.


Wrong. Hot air rises. Heat energy travels to attempt equilibrium no
matter the direction. If the floor is not insulated properly the heat
will travel to it.

Ed Pawlowski wrote: "On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST),
wrote:
- show quoted text -
Wrong. Hot air rises. Heat energy travels to attempt equilibrium no
matter the direction. If the floor is not insulated properly the heat
will travel to it. "

Ohh STOP NITPICKING. You know
you online ****s love to oppose me
on damn near everything I post here!

It's getting tiring. The original poster
gets the basic point. That's all that
matters, C-3PO.

On 12/28/2015 8:09 PM, wrote:
Heat's first propensity is to rise. Take care
of that first. The United States of America
remains in 2015 the most under and uninsulated
country on earth - residentially.


How about Afghanistan, or Iraq? Where do they
rate on blown up insullation?

IED = Installed Energy Dampening.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 12/29/2015 6:29 AM, wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote: "On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST),
wrote:
- show quoted text -
Wrong. Hot air rises. Heat energy travels to attempt equilibrium no
matter the direction. If the floor is not insulated properly the heat
will travel to it. "

Ohh STOP NITPICKING. You know
you online ****s love to oppose me
on damn near everything I post here!

It's getting tiring. The original poster
gets the basic point. That's all that
matters, C-3PO.


nEtpicking, not nItpicking. This is Usenet,
you silly goof. We netpick, here. A never
ending source of joy for us editor types.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

The United States of America
remains in 2015 the most under and uninsulated
country on earth - residentially.

Source?

On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 22:37:21 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote in
8

Any suggestions?

The more insulation the better.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 8:09:18 AM UTC-5, CRNG wrote:
On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 22:37:21 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote in
8

Any suggestions?

The more insulation the better.
--

But there are diminishing returns and he's in SF, which has a
moderate climate. Between unfinished basements and the living
space typically isn't insulated. My basement is probably ~55F
all year long, in SF I wouldn't be surprised if a crawlspace,
with some limited vents, is not too much different.

Someone else pointed out that some more info on what the real
objective is would be helpful. He said that after replacing
carpet with wood flooring, it takes a lot longer to heat the
house. I don't think that makes much sense. I can see carpet
feeling warmer, but from a heat transfer perspective, I doubt
carpet vs wood is going to make much difference. Also, he says
he has a 20 year old furnace. If heating bills are an issue,
replacing that might make more difference in how much energy
it takes to heat the house than insulating the crawlspace.

I'd get one of those inexpensive hand held infrared thermometers and
start checking for cold spots to plug up. The problem may not be where
you expect it to be.

Steve
73 de N2UBP

On 12/29/2015 7:36 AM, burfordTjustice wrote:
On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

The United States of America
remains in 2015 the most under and uninsulated
country on earth - residentially.

Source?



Federation Uninsulated Ceilings Keeping
Your Oil Usage.

Simply Underinsulated Ceilings Keeping
Energy Reduced Saving.

That would probably make a catchy acronym.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 12/29/2015 8:09 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 22:37:21 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote in
8

Any suggestions?

The more insulation the better.

I've got R-273 in my walls. Sadly, there is only
a six inch walkway through the center of my
trailer.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
:

Tony Hwang explained on 12/28/2015 :
Boris wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining
room, and living room, all of which are open to each other. I had
3/4" red oak planking installed over the existing plywood
subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if
it's because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F.
Bay area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my
furnace usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or
so to heat the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in
the garage). When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and
overnight temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under
the new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the
new wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under
the entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the
wall studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot
about insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate
between all the joists, and others say best to insultate just
betwee the studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much
easier, since it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive,
since the insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so
the air does not just flow under it.




Over head? I think you mean what's in the attic...that blown in
pink stuff, lots of it. So much so that you have to clear it away
to find the ceiling joists.

I've closed up all the vents already.

I'd use rigid high density styrofoam panels between joists under
floor. You can use adhesive. Walls as well or batts.

We need insulated concrete here in Cali. It got down to 29 last night,
and is supposed to get down to 20 tonight.
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

Boris presented the following explanation :
"Eagle" wrote in
:

Ralph Mowery explained :
"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and
living room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red
oak planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay
area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace
usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat
the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight
temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.

What if you don't have vents under the house, just a concrete slab?


Vents are to move air to control moisture in dirt crawlspaces. The
moisture comes from the ground. You shouldn't have any moisture issues.

I don't because the slab is insulated from the ground by a plastic
sheet. That doesn't stop the cold though, and that is why I think
concrete should be made with insulating properties.

On 12/29/2015 9:54 AM, Eagle wrote:
After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

I've talked to carpet cleaning people
who are truck mounted. That's got to
hurt.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Stormin Mormon: "I've got R-273 in my walls. Sadly, there is only
a six inch walkway through the center of my trailer"


Americans... Infathomable creatures.


Refuse to use the brains the Lord they
worship so dearly, gave them. When
Jesus said lay your worries at my feet,
he didn't mean "live in a drafty barn of
a house with the heat cranked up to 90"!

Stormin Mormon pretended :
On 12/29/2015 9:54 AM, Eagle wrote:
After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

I've talked to carpet cleaning people
who are truck mounted. That's got to
hurt.
They MOUNTED, or ARE mounted?

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 08:25:23 -0800
"Eagle" wrote:

Stormin Mormon pretended :
On 12/29/2015 9:54 AM, Eagle wrote:
After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

I've talked to carpet cleaning people
who are truck mounted. That's got to
hurt.
They MOUNTED, or ARE mounted?

You are the one with jail time history, you tell us the answer.

On 12/29/2015 11:25 AM, Eagle wrote:
Stormin Mormon pretended :
On 12/29/2015 9:54 AM, Eagle wrote:
After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

I've talked to carpet cleaning people
who are truck mounted. That's got to
hurt.
They MOUNTED, or ARE mounted?

I'm never sure. As you know, most Americans
are simple insane. Maybe both?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 12/29/2015 10:54 AM, wrote:
Stormin Mormon: "I've got R-273 in my walls. Sadly, there is only
a six inch walkway through the center of my trailer"


Americans... Infathomable creatures.


Refuse to use the brains the Lord they
worship so dearly, gave them. When
Jesus said lay your worries at my feet,
he didn't mean "live in a drafty barn of
a house with the heat cranked up to 90"!


I did used to live across the street from a
welfare guy who did just exactly that. Middle
of the winter, he'd have his trailer at 80,
and wear only underpants and not much else.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

After serious thinking Stormin Mormon wrote :
On 12/29/2015 11:25 AM, Eagle wrote:
Stormin Mormon pretended :
On 12/29/2015 9:54 AM, Eagle wrote:
After serious thinking Boris wrote :
"Eagle" wrote in
My poor palm trees are going to freeze again!

Are you built on a concrete slab?

No, but My house is.

I've talked to carpet cleaning people
who are truck mounted. That's got to
hurt.
They MOUNTED, or ARE mounted?

I'm never sure. As you know, most Americans
are simple insane. Maybe both?

Boris posted for all of us...



I've closed up all the vents already.


What vents? They may be very necessary.

--
Tekkie

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 09:06:31 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/29/2015 8:09 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 22:37:21 -0000 (UTC), Boris
wrote in
8

Any suggestions?

The more insulation the better.

I've got R-273 in my walls. Sadly, there is only
a six inch walkway through the center of my
trailer.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Time to start throwing out hose old newspapers you've been "using for
insulation". It's called "hording"

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 06:57:06 -0800, "Eagle"
wrote:

Boris presented the following explanation :
"Eagle" wrote in
:

Ralph Mowery explained :
"Boris" wrote in message
09.88...
I live in an elevated rancher built in 1978. I just removed
carpeting
and linoleum from my breakfast room, kitchen, dining room, and
living room, all of which are open to each other. I had 3/4" red
oak planking installed over the existing plywood subfloor.

Winter season has come, and it has been unseasonalbly cold, and I
really notice it in the rooms mentioned above. I don't know if it's
because the wood transfers hot/cold more than what was on the
floors, or because of the really cold weather. I'm in the S.F. Bay
area, where winters are normally mild (40 - 50), and my furnace
usually heats the house fine, but now it takes an hour or so to heat
the house (20 year old gas heater, forced air, below in the garage).
When I wake in the morning, the house is 56 - 60, and overnight
temps were mid-30's to low 40's.

I'm considering insulating the crawlspace under the house, under the
new wood flooring. I have good access to all areas under the new
wood flooring, and to all exterior walls. I can walk under the
entire area. The floor joists are 2 x 10 (1 3/4 x 9), and the wall
studs are 2 x 4 (1 3/4 x 3 1/2). I've been reading a lot about
insulating crawlspaces, and some say just need to insulate between
all the joists, and others say best to insultate just betwee the
studs. Of course, doing just the studs would be much easier, since
it's doesn't have to be 'hung', and less expensive, since the
insulation wouldn't have to be as thick.

Any suggestions?

YOu did not mention the insulation over head. If it is less than
about 8 to 10 inches, start there. Then to the walls and last the
floors.. Do be sure that the vents under the house are closed so the
air does not just flow under it.

What if you don't have vents under the house, just a concrete slab?


Vents are to move air to control moisture in dirt crawlspaces. The
moisture comes from the ground. You shouldn't have any moisture issues.

I don't because the slab is insulated from the ground by a plastic
sheet. That doesn't stop the cold though, and that is why I think
concrete should be made with insulating properties.
Common practice up here in "the great white north" is 4 inches of
styrofoam over the gravel and under the slab.. THAY is an insulated
slab - and it is "warm"

wrote in
:

Ed Pawlowski wrote: "On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 17:09:09 -0800 (PST),
wrote:
- show quoted text -
Wrong. Hot air rises. Heat energy travels to attempt equilibrium no
matter the direction. If the floor is not insulated properly the heat
will travel to it. "

Ohh STOP NITPICKING. You know
you online ****s love to oppose me
on damn near everything I post here!

It's getting tiring. The original poster
gets the basic point. That's all that
matters, C-3PO.

I understand both.

On 12/29/2015 3:32 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 09:06:31 -0500, Stormin Mormon
The more insulation the better.

I've got R-273 in my walls. Sadly, there is only
a six inch walkway through the center of my
trailer.

.
Time to start throwing out hose old newspapers you've been "using for
insulation". It's called "hording"


I resent that! I use cardboard and foam trays
from McDonalds breakfasts. Newspapers, perish
the thought. Gauche!

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..