After some recent, occasional loss of commode water with fill valve
running briefly throughout the day, I decided to do the dye test. After
20 min, dye showed up in the bowl so I concluded it was the flapper or
flush valve. As a precaution, I decided to upgrade the flush valve from
the Fluidmaster plastic to what was originally in the commode, a Douglas
brass valve.

The problem is that, despite both fill (Fluidmaster plastic replacement)
and flush (Douglas brass) valve replacements, I'm still getting water
loss from the tank overnight with incoming water turned off. This
morning, I decided to drain the tank water to where there was just
enough to be even with the flush valve protrusion to hopefully
determine, once and for all, whether it is the flush valve seal or
flapper causing water loss. After waiting several hours, the water
level remaining hasn't changed and no dye in the bowl, so it must still
be the flapper allowing water in.

When I replaced the flush valve, I used the Lasco-04-2103 Douglas
pattern toilet valve on Amazon (for some reason, I can't post with the
link). Also, under the picture of the valve there is a "frequently
bought together" and I bought the two items there too (Master Plumber
225-052 universal fit toilet tank ball and brass rods that go with it).

Now I'm wondering if this was the correct tank ball at all or whether I
should have gone with a different one? Also, should something be placed
on or around the Douglas valve rim (where the tank ball sits when tank
is full of water)? Seems like just rubber against brass isn't going to
cut it.

Anyway, any help would be welcome and appreciated.

Thanks much,
Bill

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 08:40:06 -0500, Bill Baxter
wrote:

After some recent, occasional loss of commode water with fill valve
running briefly throughout the day, I decided to do the dye test. After
20 min, dye showed up in the bowl so I concluded it was the flapper or
flush valve. As a precaution, I decided to upgrade the flush valve from
the Fluidmaster plastic to what was originally in the commode, a Douglas
brass valve.

The problem is that, despite both fill (Fluidmaster plastic replacement)
and flush (Douglas brass) valve replacements, I'm still getting water
loss from the tank overnight with incoming water turned off. This
morning, I decided to drain the tank water to where there was just
enough to be even with the flush valve protrusion to hopefully
determine, once and for all, whether it is the flush valve seal or
flapper causing water loss. After waiting several hours, the water
level remaining hasn't changed and no dye in the bowl, so it must still
be the flapper allowing water in.

When I replaced the flush valve, I used the Lasco-04-2103 Douglas
pattern toilet valve on Amazon (for some reason, I can't post with the
link). Also, under the picture of the valve there is a "frequently
bought together" and I bought the two items there too (Master Plumber
225-052 universal fit toilet tank ball and brass rods that go with it).

Now I'm wondering if this was the correct tank ball at all or whether I
should have gone with a different one? Also, should something be placed
on or around the Douglas valve rim (where the tank ball sits when tank
is full of water)? Seems like just rubber against brass isn't going to
cut it.

Anyway, any help would be welcome and appreciated.

Thanks much,
Bill


Is this the item?

http://www.lasco.net/douglas-c-2937_323_334_353/brass-douglas-flush-valve-p-6082.html

Try bending the rod down a bit to lower the ball, in case the valve is
not shutting off. In the case of the flapper, I had some that were a
bit rigid, not a pliable so the didn't seat well.

The washer on the flush valve should be all you need to secure the
valve - using the nut underneath the tank. Make sure it is seated
well before you tighten the nut. YMMV

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 08:40:06 -0500, Bill Baxter
wrote:


Now I'm wondering if this was the correct tank ball at all or whether I
should have gone with a different one? Also, should something be placed
on or around the Douglas valve rim (where the tank ball sits when tank
is full of water)? Seems like just rubber against brass isn't going to
cut it.

I once had a flapper that leeaked quite a bit, I'd have to take the
toilet bowl brush and push the flapper into the hole to stop it. It
took 4 months or more to seal the tank on its own.

I would have changed flappers but it had the same make and number as
the model I'd used many times without any problems, and came from the
same batch as one or two that had worked fine.

IOW, you got a bad one but after a while it may fit fine.

Anyway, any help would be welcome and appreciated.

On 12/10/2015 02:47 AM, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 08:40:06 -0500, Bill Baxter
wrote:


Now I'm wondering if this was the correct tank ball at all or whether I
should have gone with a different one? Also, should something be placed
on or around the Douglas valve rim (where the tank ball sits when tank
is full of water)? Seems like just rubber against brass isn't going to
cut it.

I once had a flapper that leeaked quite a bit, I'd have to take the
toilet bowl brush and push the flapper into the hole to stop it. It
took 4 months or more to seal the tank on its own.

I would have changed flappers but it had the same make and number as
the model I'd used many times without any problems, and came from the
same batch as one or two that had worked fine.

IOW, you got a bad one but after a while it may fit fine.

Anyway, any help would be welcome and appreciated.

I ended up contacting the manufacturer directly and their tank ball is
different than the "universal" ball I am using now, plus it's about 2x
the weight so I ordered one.

Thanks again for any help.

Bill