My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the blinking light code. This happens whether the obstruction sensor wires are connected or not. The door will go down and stay down if I hold the manual pushbutton doorbell type switch until the door reaches the bottom. If I release the pushbutton anywhere in the travel except the full bottom, the door does its reversal routine.

My gut reaction is that one of the control relays on the printed wiring board has a stuck contact. I beat on the relays with the power off and then reconnected the power. It seemed like the door was ok for one period of travel during which it closed about half-way, but then it went into the obstruction mode again and reversed with the flashing light. The printed wiring board is marked 3528, BM01, date code 9615.

The Stanley help center/parts seller is closed until tomorrow when I will price a replacement printed wiring board. Anyone have ideas for anything to try in the interim???

wrote:
My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the blinking light code. This happens whether the obstruction sensor wires are connected or not. The door will go down and stay down if I hold the manual pushbutton doorbell type switch until the door reaches the bottom. If I release the pushbutton anywhere in the travel except the full bottom, the door does its reversal routine.

My gut reaction is that one of the control relays on the printed wiring board has a stuck contact. I beat on the relays with the power off and then reconnected the power. It seemed like the door was ok for one period of travel during which it closed about half-way, but then it went into the obstruction mode again and reversed with the flashing light. The printed wiring board is marked 3528, BM01, date code 9615.

The Stanley help center/parts seller is closed until tomorrow when I will price a replacement printed wiring board. Anyone have ideas for anything to try in the interim???

Hi,
If you are sure the relay is suspect, you can just replace it.
Does not have to be exact fit. You can wire(solder in) same
spec. relay. You may have to remove the PCB to do this.

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 12:08:43 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:02:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the blinking light code. This happens whether the obstruction sensor wires are connected or not. The door will go down and stay down if I hold the manual pushbutton doorbell type switch until the door reaches the bottom. If I release the pushbutton anywhere in the travel except the full bottom, the door does its reversal routine.

My gut reaction is that one of the control relays on the printed wiring board has a stuck contact. I beat on the relays with the power off and then reconnected the power. It seemed like the door was ok for one period of travel during which it closed about half-way, but then it went into the obstruction mode again and reversed with the flashing light. The printed wiring board is marked 3528, BM01, date code 9615.

The Stanley help center/parts seller is closed until tomorrow when I will price a replacement printed wiring board. Anyone have ideas for anything to try in the interim???

Have you cranked up the "down force" adjustment?

Try the door without the opener attached to be sure there is no bind
in the operation. If it was the optical sensor, holding the button
would not over ride it.

Like you, I was also thinking of a touchy pot for the motor current limit when the door is closing. What you called down force. The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster

On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

+1

Or one sensor went bad (iirc one transmits, other receives)

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 12:47:45 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

+1

Or one sensor went bad (iirc one transmits, other receives)

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.

Tell a kid to take a push broom and go sweep out the garage and guess what he's going to hit with the broom every time. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Broom Monster

On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 11:38:46 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 12:47:45 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

+1

Or one sensor went bad (iirc one transmits, other receives)

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.

Tell a kid to take a push broom and go sweep out the garage and guess what he's going to hit with the broom every time. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Broom Monster

BTDT

I take the 5th

Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 12:08:43 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:02:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the blinking light code. This happens whether the obstruction sensor wires are connected or not. The door will go down and stay down if I hold the manual pushbutton doorbell type switch until the door reaches the bottom. If I release the pushbutton anywhere in the travel except the full bottom, the door does its reversal routine.

My gut reaction is that one of the control relays on the printed wiring board has a stuck contact. I beat on the relays with the power off and then reconnected the power. It seemed like the door was ok for one period of travel during which it closed about half-way, but then it went into the obstruction mode again and reversed with the flashing light. The printed wiring board is marked 3528, BM01, date code 9615.

The Stanley help center/parts seller is closed until tomorrow when I will price a replacement printed wiring board. Anyone have ideas for anything to try in the interim???

Have you cranked up the "down force" adjustment?

Try the door without the opener attached to be sure there is no bind
in the operation. If it was the optical sensor, holding the button
would not over ride it.

Like you, I was also thinking of a touchy pot for the motor current limit when the door is closing. What you called down force. The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster

Hmm,
In that case I'd make sure the door torsion spring is still keeping the
door in balance. Over time springs weaken and needs readjustment. BTW,
our Genie screw driver opener is DC motor driven and it's all
micro-processor controlled. No adjusting pot t all. Push couple buttons
moving
door up and down and it is all set.

Oren wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

+1

Or one sensor went bad (iirc one transmits, other receives)

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.

Yes. They are IR TX/RX pair. There is a card you can buy from Electronic
parts store which detects IR. Very handy item in my
tool box.

On 7/5/15 1:35 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Like you, I was also thinking of a touchy pot for the motor current
limit when the door is closing. What you called down force. The last
time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical
safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen
folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical
safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment.8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster

A neighbor's door would act up in cold weather. I thought it was gummy
lube or lack of lube, but I couldn't find much drag in the motor, screw,
door rollers, or hinges.

I turned the force controls up all the way and it made no difference.
Then I discovered that the computer sensed RPMs, not motor current. A
sort of plastic cup on the motor shaft interrupted a light beam. It was
out of place. I slid it back into position. It has worked fine ever
since, with the force controls near the minimum.

On 7/5/2015 1:35 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned

photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side

of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a

garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical

safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster


One time I did see that (sensor out of whack) at
parents house. Turns out the wire plug that
connects to the sensor was dirty, and needed
WD-40.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/5/2015 1:47 PM, Oren wrote:

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.


Dumb, when 8% or so of men are red green
color blind.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/5/2015 12:02 PM, wrote:
Stanley Model D1000

I'd unhook the emergency release and check how freely the door travels
and make sure it's adjusted properly. Then I'd check the sensors, and
gears in the drive housing. I had to replace a capacitor in one of my
sensors a long time ago. No big deal, or you can just buy some
replacement sensors if that's the problem. I also had to replace the
gears in one of my garage door openers. You can get any of the parts
on ebay... I see the circuit boards new and used 60 bucks new 22.50
used. Lots of youtube videos on garage door and garage door opener
repair. Big warning! be careful when you mess with garage door springs.
I've still got all my fingers but a garage door roller almost got a
couple of them when the door got away from me while adjusting a spring.

On 07/05/2015 12:02 PM, wrote:
My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the
remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the
blinking light code. ...


Are you certain the code corresponds to the visual sensors or is it the
force-reverser? Sounds more like the latter but there should be a
different code for each...

--

"Uncle Monster" wrote in message
...

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 12:08:43 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:02:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

My Stanley Model D1000, Date Code 96176, starts down from either the
remote or the door pushbutton in the garage, but then reverses with the
blinking light code. This happens whether the obstruction sensor wires
are connected or not. The door will go down and stay down if I hold the
manual pushbutton doorbell type switch until the door reaches the bottom.
If I release the pushbutton anywhere in the travel except the full
bottom, the door does its reversal routine.

My gut reaction is that one of the control relays on the printed wiring
board has a stuck contact. I beat on the relays with the power off and
then reconnected the power. It seemed like the door was ok for one
period of travel during which it closed about half-way, but then it went
into the obstruction mode again and reversed with the flashing light.
The printed wiring board is marked 3528, BM01, date code 9615.

Perhaps you gut is partially right. I am not familiar with garage door
openers, however what is seems to be it is time delay
that holding in contactor/ relay that energize motor, but this time delay
could be mechanical or electronic drops out before
completing opining either way this timing circuit need to be repair or
replace.




The Stanley help center/parts seller is closed until tomorrow when I will
price a replacement printed wiring board. Anyone have ideas for anything
to try in the interim???

Have you cranked up the "down force" adjustment?

Try the door without the opener attached to be sure there is no bind
in the operation. If it was the optical sensor, holding the button
would not over ride it.

Like you, I was also thinking of a touchy pot for the motor current limit
when the door is closing. What you called down force. The last time I messed
with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at
either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose
into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of
alignment. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster

I took a good look at everything associated with the door. It travels freely up and down and is well-balanced, up vs down force. But, I noted several parts look pretty badly worn, and for $138 + tax I can get a new Chamberlain opener and my wife will be happy knowing she has a brand-new opener. I'll keep some of the parts and the motor as backups for the identical opener that operates my garage door (We have two separate garages, attached to each other with a doorway between the two units).

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!!!!

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 4:26:45 PM UTC-5, J Burns wrote:
On 7/5/15 1:35 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Like you, I was also thinking of a touchy pot for the motor current
limit when the door is closing. What you called down force. The last
time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical
safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen
folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical
safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment.8-)

[8~{} Uncle Door Monster

A neighbor's door would act up in cold weather. I thought it was gummy
lube or lack of lube, but I couldn't find much drag in the motor, screw,
door rollers, or hinges.

I turned the force controls up all the way and it made no difference.
Then I discovered that the computer sensed RPMs, not motor current. A
sort of plastic cup on the motor shaft interrupted a light beam. It was
out of place. I slid it back into position. It has worked fine ever
since, with the force controls near the minimum.

What happened to the good old garage door openers that would crush a dumb kid when he lay under the closing door? Those worked trouble free most of the time. Now with all the safety gadgets that violate Darwin's Law, garage door openers are fuxored up half the time. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Mean Monster

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 3:28:12 PM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Sun, 5 Jul 2015 10:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

The last time I messed with one it was a misaligned photocell for the optical safety sensor at either side of the door at the bottom. I've seen folks drag a garden hose into the garage and it hits the optical safety sensor and knocks it out of alignment. 8-)

+1

Or one sensor went bad (iirc one transmits, other receives)

On mine, one sensor has a red light and the other is green when
aligned.

Yes. They are IR TX/RX pair. There is a card you can buy from Electronic
parts store which detects IR. Very handy item in my
tool box.

I got one from MCM Electronics more than 30 years ago and it's probably in my electronics toolbox somewhere but I doubt it still works because I believe the test area degrades over time. ^_^

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-6772

[8~{} Uncle IR Monster

The photocell receiver and light source seem to be fine, the indicator light on the receiver is lit and goes out when something blocks the line of sight between the source and the receiver.

I just bought a Chamberlain unit at Home Despot and my son is coming over tomorrow morning and we will put the new opener in service. My wife is happy because she is getting a new opener, and that makes life so much betterg.

On 7/5/2015 10:45 PM, wrote:
The photocell receiver and light source seem to be fine, the indicator light on the receiver is lit and goes out when something blocks the line of sight between the source and the receiver.

I just bought a Chamberlain unit at Home Despot and my son is coming over tomorrow morning and we will put the new opener in service. My wife is happy because she is getting a new opener, and that makes life so much betterg.

Hi Bob. I had a similar problem with my Chamberlain a few months ago. I
changed the down force just a little, and it was ok after that. As I
recall, mine has a emergency mode where you can hold the button on the
wired controller and it will close, even though it thinks there is a
blockage ... don't know if the Stanley has this feature.