On 7/8/2015 12:40 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On 07/01/2015 11:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

[snip]

A plug can be accidently pulled out. That could be a serious problem
under the right circumstances. Twist lock, of course, prevents that.

Are you thinking of freeze damage, or something else?

A plug that's only partially pulled out can generate enough heat to start a
fire - particularly in a device that draws a lot of amps.

--
Bobby G.




Perhaps freezers should be hard wired, like furnace?


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 07/08/2015 06:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/8/2015 12:40 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On 07/01/2015 11:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

[snip]

A plug can be accidently pulled out. That could be a serious problem
under the right circumstances. Twist lock, of course, prevents that.

Are you thinking of freeze damage, or something else?

A plug that's only partially pulled out can generate enough heat to
start a
fire - particularly in a device that draws a lot of amps.

--
Bobby G.




Perhaps freezers should be hard wired, like furnace?



How about an electric dryer?

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The intelligent man portions his belief to the evidence" -- Hume

On 7/8/2015 1:14 PM, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 07/08/2015 06:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
A plug that's only partially pulled out can generate enough heat to
start a
fire - particularly in a device that draws a lot of amps.
Bobby G.

Perhaps freezers should be hard wired, like furnace?

How about an electric dryer?


Even more critical, and even more need for
hard wiring.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 07/08/2015 02:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/8/2015 1:14 PM, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 07/08/2015 06:38 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
A plug that's only partially pulled out can generate enough heat to
start a
fire - particularly in a device that draws a lot of amps.
Bobby G.

Perhaps freezers should be hard wired, like furnace?

How about an electric dryer?


Even more critical, and even more need for
hard wiring.


The plug for my dryer is harder to get to, requiring moving the dryer
(which requires moving the washer, because of limited space). It also
takes more force to pull out.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"If we should put god in the Constitution there would be no room left
for man." -- Robert G. Ingersoll

Mark Lloyd news Wed, 01 Jul 2015 02:24:35 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

On 06/30/2015 10:49 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 9:52:26 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Years ago, I did some calculations. A galon of gas
provides about 4,000 watts for one hour. With a
5k genny, best to have a LOT of gasoline on hand.
Cause the gas stations don't have power.

You can siphon gas from your car in an emergency. Good thought
though...


I thought most car tanks were designed to prevent that.

The tank is.. but.. A modern car has a friendly electric fuel pump
inside the tank which is controlled by a fat relay that's usually
under the hood. If you take the fuel line off of your carb/injection
rail, and bypass the relay, it'll happily pump fuel at a good rate
until the tank runs dry, the battery fails, or you turn it back off.

Don't try to start your car to trick into turning the pump on for you
to drain gas though. Just ask the relay to do it. You don't need the
car getting upset thinking it's losing a lot of fuel and shutting
things down to prevent a fire.





--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

Mark Lloyd
Thu, 02 Jul 2015 16:52:56 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

On 07/01/2015 11:05 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

[snip]

A plug can be accidently pulled out. That could be a serious
problem under the right circumstances. Twist lock, of course,
prevents that.

Are you thinking of freeze damage, or something else?


Depending on how far it's pulled out and the load present, I'd be
more concerned with an unexpected electrical fire that the breaker
isn't going to notice is a problem (no short circuit or overload, no
trip-basic breaker; I'm not including Arcfault/GFCI breakers in
this). If nobody is home, this could be a real problem in a very
short period of time. More so if this receptacle is located near
easily flammable items.

Once the plastic on the receptacle itself catches, and, it will.. if
someone isn't around, that fire isn't going to remain confined to the
box.

Freeze damage and flooding are certainly two other valid concerns
though. Then you have the issue of people who will borrow the outlet
in partially finished basements and 'forget' to plug the original
cord back in all the way. Give someone a place to plug something in,
they usually will. Even if they shouldn't!





--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

J0HNS0N
Thu, 02 Jul 2015
06:44:04 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jul 2015 23:02:06 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jul 2015 16:05:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/1/2015 12:10 PM, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 07/01/2015 07:14 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Wiring the furnace was excellent idea. I have done
that during power cuts. If the gas or fuel source
is okay, furnace provides good heat, and warms the
home evenly. Not just spot heat in one room.

Some people here say it's wrong to have a cord & plug on a
furnace, but they never say why. When I bought this house in
1998, it had cord & plug on the furnace. When I got a new
furnace a couple of years ago, that was installed the same way.
It could be very useful during a power failure in the winter
(ice storm?).


For some reason the NEC says the furnace should
be hard wired. No idea why, a plug and socket
make so much more sense. Works for refrigerators,
washers, dryers, window AC. Why not furnace?

Anyone know?

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
I don't know why NEC says it has to be hardwired, but I know many
inspectors allow a twist-lock cord to serve as the emergency
disconnect instead of a switch.

The natural gas furnace that came in my house (built 2000) has a
plain old cord and plug. Further the single electrical socket it's
plugged into is mounted on the ceiling so only the socket contact
friction keeps the cord from falling out. And it never has.

Then when I had my water heater replaced I got one with an
electric igniter instead of a pilot light like the old one. The
water heater is right next to the furnace and the furnace was
taking up that one and only socket. So the guy just used a 3 way
plug to plug both into the one socket. The city inspector passed
it so I guess he didn't care and I was glad.

Hmm.. It's probably because your electric ignition systems aren't
pulling any significant amps on the dedicated circuit (should be) I'm
assuming? the NG furnace uses the electricity for an ignitor and to
run the blower(s)?

If so, that shouldn't exceed the circuits capacity. I'd make one
suggestion though. Remove the 3way plug, remove the single outlet,
replace with double outlet and faceplate. It was originally a single
outlet to discourage you from trying to use that (should have been)
dedicated circuit for anything besides what was originally plugged
into it. Stapling the wires when routed properly once you plug them
back in can also reduce stress on the connection and ensure they will
never accidently become unplugged.

Plug both back in as normal. It's a better connection for both
devices. If the single 3way comes out, you lose power on both as it
is now. If one comes out of a brand new outlet, it doesn't
automatically take the other with it in the suggestion I made.


--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.