I am going with the nose oil.

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 1:14:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I am going with the nose oil.

You waited 16 years to reply to the OP. Dang feller! o_O

[8~{} Uncle Old Monster

Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 1:14:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I am going with the nose oil.

You waited 16 years to reply to the OP. Dang feller! o_O

[8~{} Uncle Old Monster

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 11:37:06 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

....you won't lose BIOS, but you might lose Cmos settings. 8^)

On Sun, 10 May 2015 09:46:44 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 11:37:06 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

...you won't lose BIOS, but you might lose Cmos settings. 8^)

TA DA!

bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 11:37:06 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

...you won't lose BIOS, but you might lose Cmos settings. 8^)

It can fall back to default settings but watch dog timer won't
keep real time. I am depending on home network router. Router keeps
time in sync with NTS time server. Any how I never kept desk top or
laptop long enough until battery goes. Any how replacing battery is
not that difficult. Quality of batteries improved too.

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 11:37:06 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:
Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 1:14:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I am going with the nose oil.

You waited 16 years to reply to the OP. Dang feller! o_O

[8~{} Uncle Old Monster

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

It would have to be a very old computer for the BIOS to default to 1999.
The time/date information comes from the Usenet server. You could access a news server in another time zone and your post could show a different day when it shows up on Usenet. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Time Traveling Monster

posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 12:35:13 PM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:
bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 11:37:06 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:

Folks must not watch their computer time. Maybe BIOS battery is
dead?

...you won't lose BIOS, but you might lose Cmos settings. 8^)

It can fall back to default settings but watch dog timer won't
keep real time. I am depending on home network router. Router keeps
time in sync with NTS time server. Any how I never kept desk top or
laptop long enough until battery goes. Any how replacing battery is
not that difficult. Quality of batteries improved too.

Newer computers may not have a BIOS battery, they could have a supercapacitor to provide power to preserve the BIOS settings. If the clock chip loses power like from a dead battery, it will default to the date the bios was copyrighted. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle CMOS Monster

Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.



I still use nose oil on light bulb bases.

And by the way, the official scientific term for it is "Nasal sebum".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Jeff Wisnia posted for all of us...



Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.



I still use nose oil on light bulb bases.

And by the way, the official scientific term for it is "Nasal sebum".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

Jeff

Ok, I thought maybe you meant "mucosal lining"

Then at the other end is the Ileum and don't forget the Jejunum!

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster

On 5/17/2015 3:07 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster


Lube would have prevented all these:

http://www.ultimatetop10s.com/top-10...someones-arse/

"Uncle Monster" wrote in message
...

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the
threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE



At work where we had hundreds of lights that were the high wattage (200
watts up) found out it was easier to just spray some Kroil penetrating oil
on the threads when we wanted to remove them. A quick spray and a minuit
later they almost unscrew theirselves.

Worked much beter than several kinds of lube that was tried.

On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 2:15:56 PM UTC-5, Frank wrote:
On 5/17/2015 3:07 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster


Lube would have prevented all these:

http://www.ultimatetop10s.com/top-10...someones-arse/

HOLY CRAP!! o_O

[8~{} Uncle Xray Monster

On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 2:15:56 PM UTC-5, Frank wrote:
On 5/17/2015 3:07 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster


Lube would have prevented all these:

http://www.ultimatetop10s.com/top-10...someones-arse/

Did you try Noalox? Most electricians have a tube in their toolbox and since the screw base of most light bulbs is made of aluminum, the Noalox or similar compound works well. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster

I used that but was yelled at that it MAY short out to the center contact if
not carefully applied.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On Tuesday, May 19, 2015 at 3:27:49 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

I use Noalox on the bulb threads. It only takes a small amount on the threads to keep the bulb from sticking. 8-]

http://www.amazon.com/Noalox%C2%AE-A.../dp/B0019KHHRE

[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster

I used that but was yelled at that it MAY short out to the center contact if
not carefully applied.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

Put a dab on a piece of cardboard and check the conductivity with your ohmmeter. I never gob in on the threads, I just put a thin film on the bulb threads. A little dab on the center contact works well too. I usually did it for bulbs in the interior lights of commercial walk in coolers and freezers. A bit on the bulb threads of the light bulbs in your home fridge and freezer is also a good idea. 8-)

[8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster

Tekkie® wrote:
Jeff Wisnia posted for all of us...



Tekkie® wrote:
posted for all of us...



I am going with the nose oil.

Didn't see the original post but this was discussed years ago (if you had
done any research) and dielectric grease is best.



I still use nose oil on light bulb bases.

And by the way, the official scientific term for it is "Nasal sebum".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

Jeff

Ok, I thought maybe you meant "mucosal lining"

Then at the other end is the Ileum and don't forget the Jejunum!



I do have a brush top can of Thomas & Betts Kopr-Shield which is
probably 40 years old now. I use a tiny coating of that on things I want
to insure and preserve the conductivity of, like the cable connections
to the new 12 volt battery I put into my riding mower two days ago.

Looks like there's still enough in that can to last the rest of my life.

Here 'tis:

http://tinyurl.com/k4lf4fv

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message news:Uq- I
do have a brush top can of Thomas & Betts Kopr-Shield which is
probably 40 years old now. I use a tiny coating of that on things I want
to insure and preserve the conductivity of, like the cable connections to
the new 12 volt battery I put into my riding mower two days ago.

Looks like there's still enough in that can to last the rest of my life.

Here 'tis:

http://tinyurl.com/k4lf4fv


Looks to be similar to some Fel-Pro antisieze we had at work. That stuff
gets all over everything. If Money was like that, I would sill have 9 cents
left out of my first dime.