I had a lot of water enter my townhouse during the 1st week of March when there was ice damming going on. Water came in where the siding meets the roof. Today the property management company for my condo association sent a repairman over to perform a repair of my roof. All he did was use a caulking gun to put a bead of sealant (roof Xtender 100) where the siding meets the roof.

Can those of you with roofing experience please tell me if this is really an acceptable repair for this situation? If not, then why not, and what type of repair would be acceptable. As you can probably guess, I do already have my own ideas about this, but I would like to hear your opinions first, as well as your opinions on how I should go about convincing the Association that this isn't an acceptable roof repair

Please see these links of the repair that was performed:

http://www.screencast.com/t/dQLzmNTk78K

http://www.screencast.com/t/FLZ0RNbHr

Thanks.

J.

On 03/19/2015 06:49 PM, wrote:
I had a lot of water enter my townhouse during the 1st week of March when there was ice damming going on. Water came in where the siding meets the roof. Today the property management company for my condo association sent a repairman over to perform a repair of my roof. All he did was use a caulking gun to put a bead of sealant (roof Xtender 100) where the siding meets the roof.

Can those of you with roofing experience please tell me if this is really an acceptable repair for this situation? If not, then why not, and what type of repair would be acceptable. As you can probably guess, I do already have my own ideas about this, but I would like to hear your opinions first, as well as your opinions on how I should go about convincing the Association that this isn't an acceptable roof repair

Please see these links of the repair that was performed:

http://www.screencast.com/t/dQLzmNTk78K

http://www.screencast.com/t/FLZ0RNbHr

Thanks.

J.





No matter how it looks, there is only /one/ acceptable repair:

The one that does not allow water to get in.

Okay, but my concern isn't really how it looks cosmetically...my concern is this really the proper way to repair the roof so that water won't get in?


No matter how it looks, there is only /one/ acceptable repair:

The one that does not allow water to get in.

On 03/19/2015 07:18 PM, wrote:
Okay, but my concern isn't really how it looks cosmetically...my concern is this really the proper way to repair the roof so that water won't get in?




Like I said, if it does not leak any more then it's a proper repair.

Putting the bead like that is fine but with roofs... water does not
always get in where you think it does.


No matter how it looks, there is only /one/ acceptable repair:

The one that does not allow water to get in.

On 3/19/2015 7:49 PM, wrote:
I had a lot of water enter my townhouse during the 1st week of March when there was ice damming going on. Water came in where the siding meets the roof. Today the property management company for my condo association sent a repairman over to perform a repair of my roof. All he did was use a caulking gun to put a bead of sealant (roof Xtender 100) where the siding meets the roof.

Can those of you with roofing experience please tell me if this is really an acceptable repair for this situation? If not, then why not, and what type of repair would be acceptable. As you can probably guess, I do already have my own ideas about this, but I would like to hear your opinions first, as well as your opinions on how I should go about convincing the Association that this isn't an acceptable roof repair

Please see these links of the repair that was performed:

http://www.screencast.com/t/dQLzmNTk78K

http://www.screencast.com/t/FLZ0RNbHr

Thanks.

J.


Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

It likely has flashing underneath...but obviously since it leaked something went wrong.

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:16:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

It likely has flashing underneath...but obviously since it leaked something went wrong.

Bingo. Flashing. That repair is a hack job. If the flashing
was properly done, ice daming should not be able to back up water
high enough to go over top of it. And that caulk at the roofline
isn't where the problem is. The problem is something is wrong with
the flashing. If ice daming got water over the flashing, it's going
to get it over the 1/2" height of that caulk too. Where vertical
surfaces meet the roof, flashing is the answer, never caulk.

I don't know what else you might do. Under normal
conditions a spot like that just drains, and probably
has flashing under the roofing, going up under the siding.
So the tar (if that's what it is) is just sealant for
good measure.

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:22:34 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:16:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

It likely has flashing underneath...but obviously since it leaked something went wrong.

Bingo. Flashing. That repair is a hack job. If the flashing
was properly done, ice daming should not be able to back up water
high enough to go over top of it. And that caulk at the roofline
isn't where the problem is. The problem is something is wrong with
the flashing. If ice daming got water over the flashing, it's going
to get it over the 1/2" height of that caulk too. Where vertical
surfaces meet the roof, flashing is the answer, never caulk.

Another factor to consider, in climates subject to ice daming, under
the shingles, code typically requires that an water barrier underlayment
be used from the bottom of the roof up until the point where the roof
is 2ft into the heated living space. In other words, if you have a
soffit overhang that is 2ft, then a wall of the house, you have water
barrier for the first 4ft, then regular underlayment/felt, is OK.
The idea is that any freeze/thaw
cycles can cause water to back up the roof at that point. By having
a water barrier underlayment, it can back up 2ft and still not penetrate
inside.

wrote:
Okay, but my concern isn't really how it looks cosmetically...my
concern is this really the proper way to repair the roof so that
water won't get in?

Temporarily, maybe, IF the caulk was thoroughly applied. However, caulk
isn't forever. Water doesn't run up hill so there should be flashing under
the shingles extending maybe a foot down slope; that flashing should also
extend up under the siding for about the same distance.

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 6:57:25 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
wrote:
Okay, but my concern isn't really how it looks cosmetically...my
concern is this really the proper way to repair the roof so that
water won't get in?

Temporarily, maybe, IF the caulk was thoroughly applied. However, caulk
isn't forever. Water doesn't run up hill so there should be flashing under
the shingles extending maybe a foot down slope; that flashing should also
extend up under the siding for about the same distance.

There needs to be step flashing all the way down that slope
where the vertical meets the roof and also flashing all the way
across the top. That is roofing 101. The water that got in either
got in because the flashing is missing or incorrectly installed or
else the water backed up far enough from ice daming that it got over
the shingle lap.

And having looked at the pics again, there is something else here that
is very wrong. That siding comes right down to the roof. It shouldn't.
There should be about a 3/4" gap between where the siding ends and
the shingles. The flashing would be visible there. You don't want the
siding in contact with the roof, it wicks up water, water gets under
it, it stays wet for days and it rots.

On 3/19/2015 9:16 PM, wrote:


Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

It likely has flashing underneath...but obviously since it leaked something went wrong.


Ed's talking about Norwegian Flasjing. Those
scandanavians really know how to do roofs.

I've seen folks in PRNY put a load of black tar
where the roof meets the chimney, for example.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 3/19/2015 7:49 PM, wrote:
I had a lot of water enter my townhouse during the 1st week of March when there was ice damming going on. Water came in where the siding meets the roof. Today the property management company for my condo association sent a repairman over to perform a repair of my roof. All he did was use a caulking gun to put a bead of sealant (roof Xtender 100) where the siding meets the roof.

Can those of you with roofing experience please tell me if this is really an acceptable repair for this situation? If not, then why not, and what type of repair would be acceptable. As you can probably guess, I do already have my own ideas about this, but I would like to hear your opinions first, as well as your opinions on how I should go about convincing the Association that this isn't an acceptable roof repair

Please see these links of the repair that was performed:

http://www.screencast.com/t/dQLzmNTk78K

http://www.screencast.com/t/FLZ0RNbHr

Thanks.

J.

That has the black and shiny look of roofing tar.
I've seen some folks apply that with a bucket and
trowel. Hope it works for you, for a long time.

Acceptable? Unsure.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 08:07:18 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Please see these links of the repair that was performed:

http://www.screencast.com/t/dQLzmNTk78K

http://www.screencast.com/t/FLZ0RNbHr

Thanks.

J.

That has the black and shiny look of roofing tar.
I've seen some folks apply that with a bucket and
trowel. Hope it works for you, for a long time.

Acceptable? Unsure.

OP. Is this an after construction roof add on?

Side, end and under photos maybe?

Curious minds and all...

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:22:34 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:16:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Looks like it will be just fine for a while. Weeks, maybe months. I'd
have looked at some sor of flasjing, best installed when the roof was done.

It likely has flashing underneath...but obviously since it leaked something went wrong.

Bingo. Flashing. That repair is a hack job. If the flashing
was properly done, ice daming should not be able to back up water
high enough to go over top of it. And that caulk at the roofline
isn't where the problem is. The problem is something is wrong with
the flashing. If ice daming got water over the flashing, it's going
to get it over the 1/2" height of that caulk too. Where vertical
surfaces meet the roof, flashing is the answer, never caulk.

Here's a diagram of how the step flashing should be done on the raked sided:

http://www.civil.uwaterloo.ca/beg/Dr...of_flash-1.gif

And a pic of it when done:

http://www.nachi.org/images10/1-13-9.jpg

Notice the intentional ~1" gap between where the siding ends and the
roof.


And on the other part, ie the headwall across the top:

http://www.nachi.org/images10/1-14-1.jpg


The above is the way it's done.