The stainless steel sink is dual bowl, with a garbage disposal (not
shown) connected to the right drain.

These two photos show the layout of the plumbing:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16272219299/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

The center of the left bowl's drain was about 3/8" too close to the
entrance to the p-trap.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

So I attempted to shorten the horizontal pipe from the output of the
90-degree elbow to the y-connection at the rear wall. I ended up with this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

Note the 1/16-1/8" inch gap at the output of the elbow. The item with
the bar code is a repair coupling. After priming and doping the pipes,
you slide it over the junction of the two pipes being joined. Obviously,
at the left end there is nothing for it to grab on to.

The repair coupling is 1.5" long. If it were, say, 1.0" I could probably
cut back the pipe it's on enough to allow gluing an short extension -
maybe with 1/2" visible - onto the output of the 90-degree elbow. Then
the coupling could slide over 1/2" of each pipe.

I'm horrible at cutting 1.5" PVC pipe with a hacksaw and getting square
cuts, so what I just suggested would be a challenge for me.

Can anyone think of a different approach?

Thanks,

R1

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 14:16:42 -0500, Rebel1
wrote:


The stainless steel sink is dual bowl, with a garbage disposal (not
shown) connected to the right drain.

These two photos show the layout of the plumbing:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16272219299/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

The center of the left bowl's drain was about 3/8" too close to the
entrance to the p-trap.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

So I attempted to shorten the horizontal pipe from the output of the
90-degree elbow to the y-connection at the rear wall. I ended up with this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

Note the 1/16-1/8" inch gap at the output of the elbow. The item with
the bar code is a repair coupling. After priming and doping the pipes,
you slide it over the junction of the two pipes being joined. Obviously,
at the left end there is nothing for it to grab on to.

The repair coupling is 1.5" long. If it were, say, 1.0" I could probably
cut back the pipe it's on enough to allow gluing an short extension -
maybe with 1/2" visible - onto the output of the 90-degree elbow. Then
the coupling could slide over 1/2" of each pipe.

I'm horrible at cutting 1.5" PVC pipe with a hacksaw and getting square
cuts, so what I just suggested would be a challenge for me.

Can anyone think of a different approach?

Thanks,

R1

See above response.

Thanks to Gordon Shumway's brilliant, creative reply to my original
post, the problem is solved.

Kidding aside, actually it was rather simple. Shorten the existing pipe
going into the rear Y and install a new one from the 90-degree elbow
until it meets the old one. Here's a photo without the repair coupling:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16279441860/

With the repair coupling in place, here's how it looks before cementing
everything:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

I first cemented the new extension into the 90-degree elbow and waited a
few minutes for everything to set. After priming and cementing both
pipes and the coupling, I slid the coupling onto the rear pipe and
pushed the front pipe into the coupling.

Note that repair couplings do not have a lip in the middle, so you can
easily slide them along the pipes and twist them. They are a little
looser than the ones with the center lip, and they are not designed for
high pressure.

After connecting everything, I turned on the water. For a second or two,
it came out full force, then became a dribble, regardless of whether I
chose hot or cold. I thought I had kinked the pull-down hose when
reinstalling the faucet, but it was okay. Turned out to be debris on the
input to the aerator. I don't know where it came from. The faucet is
less than one month old, and I didn't do any work on the water supply
side. Maybe just operating the water shutoffs loosened crud that had
built up over the 15 years since the house was built.

To deal with my problem of not being able to make square cuts on PVC
pipe, I spent $20 at Lowe's to buy a specially designed 1.5" PVC
ratcheting cutter.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150935-21365...ter&facetInfo=

The trick is making the cut equally around the circumference and not
trying to use a hacksaw and cutting directly from the top straight to
the bottom. Must cut around the circumference and rotate the pipe as you
progress. With the pipe cutter, you must have enough room to rotate it
around the pipe in one direction. You can't rock back and forth to make
the cut. I lucked out in having the clearance with the sink in place.

R1

Rebel1 wrote:
Thanks to Gordon Shumway's brilliant, creative reply to my original
post, the problem is solved.

Kidding aside, actually it was rather simple. Shorten the existing pipe
going into the rear Y and install a new one from the 90-degree elbow
until it meets the old one. Here's a photo without the repair coupling:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16279441860/

With the repair coupling in place, here's how it looks before cementing
everything:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

I first cemented the new extension into the 90-degree elbow and waited a
few minutes for everything to set. After priming and cementing both
pipes and the coupling, I slid the coupling onto the rear pipe and
pushed the front pipe into the coupling.

Note that repair couplings do not have a lip in the middle, so you can
easily slide them along the pipes and twist them. They are a little
looser than the ones with the center lip, and they are not designed for
high pressure.

After connecting everything, I turned on the water. For a second or two,
it came out full force, then became a dribble, regardless of whether I
chose hot or cold. I thought I had kinked the pull-down hose when
reinstalling the faucet, but it was okay. Turned out to be debris on the
input to the aerator. I don't know where it came from. The faucet is
less than one month old, and I didn't do any work on the water supply
side. Maybe just operating the water shutoffs loosened crud that had
built up over the 15 years since the house was built.

To deal with my problem of not being able to make square cuts on PVC
pipe, I spent $20 at Lowe's to buy a specially designed 1.5" PVC
ratcheting cutter.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150935-21365...ter&facetInfo=


The trick is making the cut equally around the circumference and not
trying to use a hacksaw and cutting directly from the top straight to
the bottom. Must cut around the circumference and rotate the pipe as you
progress. With the pipe cutter, you must have enough room to rotate it
around the pipe in one direction. You can't rock back and forth to make
the cut. I lucked out in having the clearance with the sink in place.

R1




Congratulations, on a job well done.

But tell us, how did you get the cut off end of the pipe out of the
elbow it was glued into? were you able to pry and break it out or did
you buy one of those special "drill bits"?

Or maybe just buy a new elbow of the same type, cheaper than a drill bit.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 16:24:28 -0500, Rebel1
wrote:

Thanks to Gordon Shumway's brilliant, creative reply to my original
post, the problem is solved.

Snip

I knew you would be lost without my expertise! ;-)

On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 16:47:33 -0600, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 16:24:28 -0500, Rebel1
wrote:

Thanks to Gordon Shumway's brilliant, creative reply to my original
post, the problem is solved.

Snip

I knew you would be lost without my expertise! ;-)

Big head I would suggest he dry fit the parts and align them
before he glued...

On 2/7/2015 4:50 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Rebel1 wrote:
Thanks to Gordon Shumway's brilliant, creative reply to my original
post, the problem is solved.

Kidding aside, actually it was rather simple. Shorten the existing pipe
going into the rear Y and install a new one from the 90-degree elbow
until it meets the old one. Here's a photo without the repair coupling:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16279441860/

With the repair coupling in place, here's how it looks before cementing
everything:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/902789...n/photostream/

I first cemented the new extension into the 90-degree elbow and waited a
few minutes for everything to set. After priming and cementing both
pipes and the coupling, I slid the coupling onto the rear pipe and
pushed the front pipe into the coupling.

Note that repair couplings do not have a lip in the middle, so you can
easily slide them along the pipes and twist them. They are a little
looser than the ones with the center lip, and they are not designed for
high pressure.

After connecting everything, I turned on the water. For a second or two,
it came out full force, then became a dribble, regardless of whether I
chose hot or cold. I thought I had kinked the pull-down hose when
reinstalling the faucet, but it was okay. Turned out to be debris on the
input to the aerator. I don't know where it came from. The faucet is
less than one month old, and I didn't do any work on the water supply
side. Maybe just operating the water shutoffs loosened crud that had
built up over the 15 years since the house was built.

To deal with my problem of not being able to make square cuts on PVC
pipe, I spent $20 at Lowe's to buy a specially designed 1.5" PVC
ratcheting cutter.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150935-21365...ter&facetInfo=



The trick is making the cut equally around the circumference and not
trying to use a hacksaw and cutting directly from the top straight to
the bottom. Must cut around the circumference and rotate the pipe as you
progress. With the pipe cutter, you must have enough room to rotate it
around the pipe in one direction. You can't rock back and forth to make
the cut. I lucked out in having the clearance with the sink in place.

R1




Congratulations, on a job well done.

But tell us, how did you get the cut off end of the pipe out of the
elbow it was glued into? were you able to pry and break it out or did
you buy one of those special "drill bits"?

Or maybe just buy a new elbow of the same type, cheaper than a drill bit.

Jeff

No, it's a whole new 90-degree elbow. If you go to a hardware store, HD
or Lowe's, it's part of the p-trap; you just discard the p-trap and use
the elbow. If you go to a plumber's supply house, I believe you can get
the elbow with the proper threads alone.