My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

--

On 1/6/2015 8:44 PM, Peter S. wrote:
My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.


Does it try to start and then trip out? Or just go off and not try at
all? Knowing that help determine if oil or electrical related.

If electrical, could be a relay, dirty or pitted contacts or the like.

If oil related, dirty filter, electrode gap, fire eye.

On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 01:44:01 +0000, Peter S.
wrote:

My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

If this works similar to the forced air oil furnace I once had, I had a
reset on the control box, another on the electric motor that ran the oil
pump and burner, and one more on the blower fan motor.

You dont have a blower fan, but Im sure you have the other two. WHERE
IS THIS RESET BUTTON LOCATED? I would help to know this!

There are a lot of possible causes, but my reset would trip if the flame
was poor (may need a new nozzle) Or trip from AIR IN THE OIL LINE.
(BLEED IT!!!!). Before you bleed the oil line, I'd change the oil
filter right away if it's been more than a year since changed. Then
bleed it real well.

If that dont do it, thre are lots of other reasons, such as bad flame
sensor, failing motor, failing spark transformer, spark gap too small,
bad wires, tight bearings or overloaded oil pump.

There could also be some sort of overheat sensor that is failing or the
water is getting too hot.

But I'd begin by replacing the filter, bleeding and possibly getting a
new nozzle while cleaning all burner parts, espcially the flame sensor.
(A Basic Tuneup).

On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 4:46:59 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 01:44:01 +0000, Peter S.
wrote:

My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

If this works similar to the forced air oil furnace I once had, I had a
reset on the control box, another on the electric motor that ran the oil
pump and burner, and one more on the blower fan motor.

You dont have a blower fan, but Im sure you have the other two. WHERE
IS THIS RESET BUTTON LOCATED? I would help to know this!

There are a lot of possible causes, but my reset would trip if the flame
was poor (may need a new nozzle) Or trip from AIR IN THE OIL LINE.
(BLEED IT!!!!). Before you bleed the oil line, I'd change the oil
filter right away if it's been more than a year since changed. Then
bleed it real well.

If that dont do it, thre are lots of other reasons, such as bad flame
sensor, failing motor, failing spark transformer, spark gap too small,
bad wires, tight bearings or overloaded oil pump.

There could also be some sort of overheat sensor that is failing or the
water is getting too hot.


An overheating sensor circuit problem is the only scenario that I see that
would fit the circumstances. If it's fuel, spark, etc, you would
not think that it would run fine once started and only require one
reset each time to get it started again.


But I'd begin by replacing the filter, bleeding and possibly getting a
new nozzle while cleaning all burner parts, espcially the flame sensor.
(A Basic Tuneup).

On 1/7/2015 7:54 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 4:46:59 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 01:44:01 +0000, Peter S.
wrote:

My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

If this works similar to the forced air oil furnace I once had, I had a
reset on the control box, another on the electric motor that ran the oil
pump and burner, and one more on the blower fan motor.

You dont have a blower fan, but Im sure you have the other two. WHERE
IS THIS RESET BUTTON LOCATED? I would help to know this!

There are a lot of possible causes, but my reset would trip if the flame
was poor (may need a new nozzle) Or trip from AIR IN THE OIL LINE.
(BLEED IT!!!!). Before you bleed the oil line, I'd change the oil
filter right away if it's been more than a year since changed. Then
bleed it real well.

If that dont do it, thre are lots of other reasons, such as bad flame
sensor, failing motor, failing spark transformer, spark gap too small,
bad wires, tight bearings or overloaded oil pump.

There could also be some sort of overheat sensor that is failing or the
water is getting too hot.


An overheating sensor circuit problem is the only scenario that I see that
would fit the circumstances. If it's fuel, spark, etc, you would
not think that it would run fine once started and only require one
reset each time to get it started again.


But I'd begin by replacing the filter, bleeding and possibly getting a
new nozzle while cleaning all burner parts, espcially the flame sensor.
(A Basic Tuneup).

Not being a boiler person for some 40 years, I'm guessing that the temp
is set a bit high and it is tripping the over temp safety. I'd try
lowering it a few degrees, maybe to 180 or 185. Or maybe, and I really
don't know the safety ramifications here, raise the safety by a few
degrees, if settable. And also, maybe the safety sensor is defective. I
once had a new furnace, with an over temp safety that had so wide a
range from trip point down to reset (auto), that if was causing many
problems. Replacing the unit fixed everything.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com

I don't know how old your boilers are, but I've seen some pretty old ones that still told you what was wrong.

They're either off on flame failure, off on some other fault, and there's either an indicator light, or a light that flashes a code, or a little screen that displays an error code.

When you reset it cancels the code.

I would check the condition very carefully before resetting. It seems to be tripping some kind of safety.

On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 8:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter S. wrote:
My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

--

I just had this problem with mine last month and had to replace the primary oil control box, the gizmo where the reset button is located. It cost about $160 for the new control box. Simple job; a few screws to remove, then a few color-coded wires to connect. If yours has a jumper, a loop of wire connecting two of the contact screws on the box, don't forget to move that to the new one.Just make the new one look like the old one, wire-wise, and it should be OK.

Paul

Pavel314 posted for all of us...



On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 8:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter S. wrote:
My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

--

I just had this problem with mine last month and had to replace the primary oil control box, the gizmo where the reset button is located. It cost about $160 for the new control box. Simple job; a few screws to remove, then a few color-coded wires to connect. If yours has a jumper, a loop of wire connecting two of the contact screws on the box, don't forget to move that to the new one.Just make the new one look like the old one, wire-wise, and it
should be OK.

Paul

+1 then transformer, cad eye, next guess.

--
Tekkie

On 1/6/2015 8:44 PM, Peter S. wrote:
My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

The safety switches are for your safety.
Please call a heating tech for repairs.

BTW, this is not a web forum. Home owners hub
invades Usenet, a much older system of
communication.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

replying to Ed Pawlowski , Peter wrote:
esp wrote:

Does it try to start and then trip out? Or just go off and not try at
all? Knowing that help determine if oil or electrical related.
If electrical, could be a relay, dirty or pitted contacts or the like.
If oil related, dirty filter, electrode gap, fire eye.



It runs to the 190 degrees and then we get heat in the house. Then the
boiler allows it's temp to drop and never comes back on if I don't hit the
reset.ccp



--

replying to Art Todesco , Peter wrote:
actodesco wrote:

Not being a boiler person for some 40 years, I'm guessing that the temp
is set a bit high and it is tripping the over temp safety. I'd try
lowering it a few degrees, maybe to 180 or 185. Or maybe, and I really
don't know the safety ramifications here, raise the safety by a few
degrees, if settable. And also, maybe the safety sensor is defective. I
once had a new furnace, with an over temp safety that had so wide a
range from trip point down to reset (auto), that if was causing many
problems. Replacing the unit fixed everything.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com



Where would I find the spot to lower/raise the temperature?

--

replying to Pavel314 , Peter wrote:
pintiha wrote:

t
I just had this problem with mine last month and had to replace the
primary
oil control box, the gizmo where the reset button is located. It cost
abou
t $160 for the new control box. Simple job; a few screws to remove, then a

few color-coded wires to connect. If yours has a jumper, a loop of wire
con
necting two of the contact screws on the box, don't forget to move that to

the new one.Just make the new one look like the old one, wire-wise, and it

should be OK.
Paul



Which of these two boxes would you switch? I am assuming the Honeywell one
in my pics.

--

replying to Tekkie® , Peter wrote:
Tekkie wrote:

Pavel314 posted for all of us...
should be OK.
+1 then transformer, cad eye, next guess.
--
Tekkie



Pretty much what I'm thinking based on what I've been reading.

--

On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 8:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter S. wrote:
My oil boiler has been giving me headaches lately. I have 3 zones plus hot
water. All 4 are working properly in terms of the thermostat and zone
valves. Once the boiler reaches 190 degrees, it shuts off. It allows
itself to drop in temperature and will not restart to get to the 190
degrees again. I have to manually reset it by hitting the reset button.
And then the process repeats. If I lower the thermostats to where the
house is not calling for heat, then the boiler just allows itself to drop
and become cold. then, I need to hit the reset button again. who's got
some ideas what to do next? again, thermostats and zone valves are
functioning just fine.

--

nothing to mess with if it gets below freezing where you are.....

Having just helped some friends who had a boiler that acted wierd occasionally the property owners family came home after a brief trip to a wrecked home, water logged, radiators and ines broke all over, water fooding neighbors basement. Cielings down everywhere

The home was deemed not worth fixing te heating system was a complete loss. the house was a piece of crap, bad roof K&T wiring buried in walls. the homeowner is in jail on a unreleated matter.

The home is going back to the mortage company its not worth repairing....

On 1/10/2015 11:44 PM, Peter wrote:


Where would I find the spot to lower/raise the temperature?


No where on Home Owners Hub.

Try usenet group alt home repair.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 11:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter wrote:
replying to Ed Pawlowski , Peter wrote:
esp wrote:

Does it try to start and then trip out? Or just go off and not try at
all? Knowing that help determine if oil or electrical related.
If electrical, could be a relay, dirty or pitted contacts or the like.
If oil related, dirty filter, electrode gap, fire eye.



It runs to the 190 degrees and then we get heat in the house. Then the
boiler allows it's temp to drop and never comes back on if I don't hit the
reset.ccp


Allows it's temp to drop?

That's not specific enough.

You need to know what is happening.

When your house gets warm, your thermostat will turn the boiler off. That's one possibility.

Or, your boiler can hit a fault condition, and a safety switch can turn the boiler off. That's a completely different scenario.

My bet would be on the second case. But you need to know before you can fix it right.

When the boiler is off, and you have to reset it, is there any kind of error code or light showing?

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 11:04:47 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 11:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter wrote:
replying to Ed Pawlowski , Peter wrote:
esp wrote:

Does it try to start and then trip out? Or just go off and not try at
all? Knowing that help determine if oil or electrical related.
If electrical, could be a relay, dirty or pitted contacts or the like.
If oil related, dirty filter, electrode gap, fire eye.



It runs to the 190 degrees and then we get heat in the house. Then the
boiler allows it's temp to drop and never comes back on if I don't hit the
reset.ccp


Allows it's temp to drop?

That's not specific enough.

You need to know what is happening.

When your house gets warm, your thermostat will turn the boiler off. That's one possibility.


Given that he said:

" never comes back on if I don't hit the reset", it's not the thermostat.




Or, your boiler can hit a fault condition, and a safety switch can turn the boiler off. That's a completely different scenario.

My bet would be on the second case.

Given what he said, I think you're right.



But you need to know before you can fix it right.

Apparently he does.



When the boiler is off, and you have to reset it, is there any kind of error code or light showing?

If you knew he has to reset the boiler to get it to go on, why
would you drag the thermostat red herring into it?

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 2:23:07 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:

When the boiler is off, and you have to reset it, is there any kind of error code or light showing?

If you knew he has to reset the boiler to get it to go on, why
would you drag the thermostat red herring into it?

Because I missed where he said he's already tried lowering the thermostat. And I don't like his wording that the boiler "allows itself to drop." It doesn't, something forces it to drop.

I think the boiler is tripping a safety. But, which one?

Most boilers that I've looked at have an indicator that tells which one. Do most boilers that exist have one? No idea, I can only speak to the ones I've seen.

Adjusting the boiler temperature without knowing which safety is a bad idea.

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 3:47:03 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 2:23:07 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:

When the boiler is off, and you have to reset it, is there any kind of error code or light showing?

If you knew he has to reset the boiler to get it to go on, why
would you drag the thermostat red herring into it?

Because I missed where he said he's already tried lowering the thermostat.

That isn't the definitive part. The definitive part is that he said
that he needs to push the reset button each time to restart it. *That*
is what tells you that it's not a thermostat issue.



And I don't like his wording that the boiler "allows itself to drop." It doesn't, something forces it to drop.


That would be the physics of heat transfer.




I think the boiler is tripping a safety. But, which one?

I think you're on to something.



Most boilers that I've looked at have an indicator that tells which one. Do most boilers that exist have one? No idea, I can only speak to the ones I've seen.


That almost certainly depends on the age of the boiler. A recent one
probably does. A 40 year old one, probably doesn't.



Adjusting the boiler temperature without knowing which safety is a bad idea.

Adjusting it down 10 degrees might not be a bad idea. If it's hitting
an over temp limit due to a bad sensor, then it might continue to run,
giving an indication of the problem. Apparently it runs OK once started.
I agree turning it up isn't a good idea.

replying to trader_4 , Peter wrote:
trader4 wrote:

Given that he said:
" never comes back on if I don't hit the reset", it's not the thermostat.
Given what he said, I think you're right.
Apparently he does.
If you knew he has to reset the boiler to get it to go on, why
would you drag the thermostat red herring into it?



Needed a new relay

--

On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 11:44:05 PM UTC-5, Peter wrote:
replying to Pavel314 , Peter wrote:
pintiha wrote:

t
I just had this problem with mine last month and had to replace the
primary
oil control box, the gizmo where the reset button is located. It cost
abou
t $160 for the new control box. Simple job; a few screws to remove, then a

few color-coded wires to connect. If yours has a jumper, a loop of wire
con
necting two of the contact screws on the box, don't forget to move that to

the new one.Just make the new one look like the old one, wire-wise, and it

should be OK.
Paul



Which of these two boxes would you switch? I am assuming the Honeywell one
in my pics.

--

This is like the one I replaced except mine doesn't have that little black switch in the upper left corner. I'm at work right now and don't have the exact model number that I used.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G3368075/?utm_...4kg QoddBcARg