I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and I'm a
bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all kinds of
replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW , not a DC 9098 .
I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and wonder if this is the
difference in the letter designation . I'd match the battery to the model of
the drill , but the tag with the number is damaged . I've been a fan of the
Dewalt drills for over 20 years , and until now the only battery failures
I've seen were due to not completely draining them to dead before charging .
I had a 12v battery last over 6 years ... but this 18v unit died the other
day while I was using my drill to mix mortar for the stone work behind my WB
stove ... got hot , then nothing and now it won't charge . And I gotta have
a 2nd battery , one to use while the other charges .
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Snag

Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW ,
not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and wonder
if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd match the
battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the number is
damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over 20 years ,
and until now the only battery failures I've seen were due to not
completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW ,
not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and wonder
if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd match the
battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the number is
damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over 20 years ,
and until now the only battery failures I've seen were due to not
completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Not NiCad's , they'll never take a full charge again if you don't
discharge them fully before charging . I and a coworker both got identical
new drills at the same time . He would slap a fresh battery in as soon as
his slowed a little , I'd run mine all the way down . My batteries lasted an
average of 4+ years , his were being replaced on average in less than a year
..

--
Snag

On 9/17/2014 8:42 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW ,
not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and wonder
if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd match the
battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the number is
damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over 20 years ,
and until now the only battery failures I've seen were due to not
completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Not NiCad's , they'll never take a full charge again if you don't
discharge them fully before charging . I and a coworker both got identical
new drills at the same time . He would slap a fresh battery in as soon as
his slowed a little , I'd run mine all the way down . My batteries lasted an
average of 4+ years , his were being replaced on average in less than a year
.

Different strokes. I do it like your buddy does and I have several
packs that are nearly 12 years old and work fine. If you take them down
much below 1.1V/cell you are not doing them any favors. Your drill may
refuse to run before you get there. Thus your good fortune so far.

Terry Coombs wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW
, not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and
wonder if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd
match the battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the
number is damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over
20 years , and until now the only battery failures I've seen were
due to not completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Not NiCad's , they'll never take a full charge again if you don't
discharge them fully before charging . I and a coworker both got
identical new drills at the same time . He would slap a fresh battery
in as soon as his slowed a little , I'd run mine all the way down .
My batteries lasted an average of 4+ years , his were being replaced
on average in less than a year .

If you discharge nicads fully, some of the cells get reverse charged, offgas,
and quickly die. You should only run the battery down as far as you can without
risk of reverse charging a cell.

Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW
, not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and
wonder if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd
match the battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the
number is damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over
20 years , and until now the only battery failures I've seen were
due to not completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Not NiCad's , they'll never take a full charge again if you don't
discharge them fully before charging . I and a coworker both got
identical new drills at the same time . He would slap a fresh battery
in as soon as his slowed a little , I'd run mine all the way down .
My batteries lasted an average of 4+ years , his were being replaced
on average in less than a year .

If you discharge nicads fully, some of the cells get reverse charged,
offgas, and quickly die. You should only run the battery down as far
as you can without risk of reverse charging a cell.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/artic...atteries/292/2

In article ,
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Bob F wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
I managed to fry one of the batteries to my DeWalt 18v drill , and
I'm a bit confused ... My batteries are model DC9098 . I find all
kinds of replacement batteries , and one of the most common is a DW ,
not a DC 9098 . I see a difference in the A/Hour ratings , and wonder
if this is the difference in the letter designation . I'd match the
battery to the model of the drill , but the tag with the number is
damaged . I've been a fan of the Dewalt drills for over 20 years ,
and until now the only battery failures I've seen were due to not
completely draining them to dead before charging .

Running batteries to "dead" is the worst thing you can do to them.

Not NiCad's , they'll never take a full charge again if you don't
discharge them fully before charging . I and a coworker both got identical
new drills at the same time . He would slap a fresh battery in as soon as
his slowed a little , I'd run mine all the way down . My batteries lasted an
average of 4+ years , his were being replaced on average in less than a year
.

The problem with "all the way down", is that after a cell gets to zero
volts, continued current flow will reverse charge it. Your 4+ years
batteries probably had well matched cells that all discharged at the
same rate.

When I have trouble with my 18V batteries, I take them to "Batteries
Plus". They refill them with the higher A/Hour cells. The refills are
less expensive than DeWalt, and seem to last longer.

Fred

"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message news:fmmck- When I have
trouble with my 18V batteries, I take them to "Batteries
Plus". They refill them with the higher A/Hour cells. The refills are
less expensive than DeWalt, and seem to last longer.


Don't know about the refiles, but it seems that youcan get a new drill,
charger and 2 batteries for the same price or less than 2 batteries.



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Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message news:fmmck- When I
have trouble with my 18V batteries, I take them to "Batteries
Plus". They refill them with the higher A/Hour cells. The refills
are less expensive than DeWalt, and seem to last longer.


Don't know about the refiles, but it seems that youcan get a new
drill, charger and 2 batteries for the same price or less than 2
batteries.



Yup , and I'm considering buyiong another one just like this one for that
very reason .
--
Snag

On 9/17/2014 12:28 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:

When I have trouble with my 18V batteries, I take them to "Batteries
Plus". They refill them with the higher A/Hour cells. The refills are
less expensive than DeWalt, and seem to last longer.

Fred

How do the prices compare to www.primecell.com ??

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

I wouldn't even consider buying a new OEM battery pack if I could have it rebuilt with new cells for 1/3 to 1/2 the cost.

I have three "Computer-Trak" Maytag Washers and three "Computer-Trak" Maytag dryers. They're named that because they were the first Maytag commercial laundry machines to utilize new digital controls so that you can program them to give a wide variety of different options. Instead of changing out the coin slide, I can reprogram the machines to require a certain number of quarters before they start, and then to agitate for a programmed amount of time or dry for a programmed amount of time. These machines require a battery to remember their programming if they're unplugged because they were made in 1994 before computer technology no longer required that program memory battery.

ONE Maytag OEM battery for these machines runs almost $100, and the six I'd need would set me back over $600 after you include sales taxes. I had new batteries made up at a local battery shop for $15 each, and they last 3 times as long as the OEM batteries. Those batteries are in the machines as we speak, and they're working exactly the way the OEM ones would. Why would I pay 6 times as much as I need to just to have the Maytag name on the battery pack?

Years ago, when I replaced the batteries the first time, I asked one of the local Maytag repair techs why anyone would pay $100 for one of those batteries if they can have them made up for $10 to $15 at any place that rebuilds battery packs. He said that when a machine had to be repaired under warranty, it had to be an OEM Maytag battery that gets put in, and Maytag reimburses them for the cost of the battery anyway, so the cost didn't matter. That's about the only way it would make sense to buy an OEM battery when you can have a battery pack rebuilt with new cells for half the cost that will last twice as long.

My battery dewalt charger was fried with battery on it, does that mean battery is fried

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