Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

On Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:17:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

Paint in thinner coats, so it cures faster. The WS sticks mostly
because folks may use "one coat is best" when two thin coats are
better. It "skins over" - to thick, the paint will not cure as fast
or as well and leaves none cured paint underneath. It feels dry but
can still be none-cured on a thicker coat.

On Wed, 03 Sep 2014 14:17:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:17:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

Paint in thinner coats, so it cures faster. The WS sticks mostly
because folks may use "one coat is best" when two thin coats are
better. It "skins over" - to thick, the paint will not cure as fast
or as well and leaves none cured paint underneath. It feels dry but
can still be none-cured on a thicker coat.
With some paints and some weatherstrips it doesn't matter how thin
you put it on, or how long you let it cure - the paint and the
weatherstrip develop an attraction for each other. A dusting of talcum
powder solves the problem, at least for a few months.
Eventually the paint, the weatherstrip, or both, lose the attraction,
an is no longer a problem.

On Wed, 03 Sep 2014 17:38:03 -0400, wrote:

With some paints and some weatherstrips it doesn't matter how thin
you put it on, or how long you let it cure - the paint and the
weatherstrip develop an attraction for each other. A dusting of talcum
powder solves the problem, at least for a few months.
Eventually the paint, the weatherstrip, or both, lose the attraction,
an is no longer a problem.

Thanks. I never read about using talcum to prevent sticking.

No, it's the kind of paint that was used. I don't have time right now, but I will post the reason why people sometimes have problems like this after painting with a latex paint. Hopefully I'll be able to do that tonight.

Latex primers and paints in North America are predominantly made from one of two different kinds of plastic:

1. Polyvinyl acetate, or PVA, which you probably know better as white wood glue. PVA resins are used to make general purpose primers as well as budget priced interior latex paints. Within the paint industry, PVA resins are called "Vinyl Acrylic" resins, so if you see "contains vinyl acrylic resins" or "contains vinyl acrylic copolymers", that tells you that the product is made with PVA plastic.

2. Polymethyl methacrylate, or PMMA, which you probably know better as Plexiglas or Lucite or Perspex, depending on who made the plastic. PMMA resins are used to made ALL exterior latex paints, most high quality interior latex paints and primers for fresh concrete because PMMA has much better alkali resistance than PVA. Within the paint industry, PMMA resins are called "100% Acrylic" resins. So, if you see that wording on a gallon can of paint, it simply means that the paint is made from PMMA plastic. There are literally thousands of PMMA resins used to make everything from floor finishes to paints to water based wood stains and "varnishes" to grout and masonary sealers to nail polish for the ladies.

3. About 10 percent of the interior latex paints you'll find will use styrenated acrylic resins. These have high gloss but poor UV resistance, so they're only used for interior latex paints. These kinds of paints are much more popular in Europe than in North America. My understanding is that Sherwin Williams "ProClassic" interior latex paint uses styrenated acrylic resins.

NOTE: PVA and PMMA resins are never "mixed" to make paints that have both kinds of resins in them. This is because the coalescing solvents and additives used in paints to make them stick well, spread well and form a proper film over a broad range of application conditions will work best with one kind of plastic resin or another. So combining different plastic resins throws a monkey wrench into the process of formulating the paint. In some cities, the city collects all kinds of unwanted latex paint and mixes them together to make a latex paint they sell back to the public at cost. While these paints might form a proper film under ideal conditions, they'd be more likely to be problematic when painting under cold, humid or hot conditions.

Basically, when it comes to paint, PMMA resins are superior to PVA resins in that they:
a) stick to damp surfaces better
b) they form a harder, more protective film
c) they form a film that's more acid, alkali and UV resistant
d) they form a film that's more resistant to moisture.

The only advantage to PVA resins is that they're less expensive to buy, so they're the resin of choice for making wood and drywall primers where you don't need high hardness, acid, alkali or UV resistance because the primer will be protected from those things by the top coat of paint.

The disadvantage of PVA resins is that they have low moisture resistance and low "blocking" resistance. In paint terminology, "blocking" is the tendancy of a paint to remain slightly sticky even after it's fully dry. If you've ever rested your head against a wall, and found that your hair stuck to the wall, that wall was painted with a PVA resin paint.

These disadvantages aren't a problem in primers because the primer is top coated with a paint, so the primer generally isn't exposed to moisture and isn't in contact with anything else.

The problems arise when you use interior PAINTS that are made with PVA resins.

The poor moisture resistance of PVA paints manifests itself most frequently when these kinds of paints are used in bathrooms. The result will be the paint cracking and peeling on the bathrom ceiling and high up on the walls where the humidity is highest. Invariably, the cracking and peeling of the paint will be mis-diagnosed as the result of poor prep work prior to painting, and this is exasperating to the homeowner that did the painting because he knows he preped the walls and ceilings as well as he possibly could prior to painting. Really, the problem is that he painted with an inexpensive paint made with PVA resins instead of PMMA resins. If he had used a better paint, the cracking and peeling most likely wouldn't have happened, especially if he had used a paint specifically meant for bathrooms, like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom Paint. That's because anyone making a paint specifically meant for bathrooms will pick a resin that's got excellent resistance to moisture and humidity.

The poor blocking resistance of PVA paints manifests itself most frequently when people paint doors and windows with these kinds of paints. Because PVA paints have low blocking resistance, they remain slightly sticky even when they're fully dry. High humidity exasperates the problem by making the paint film soften. The result is that doors painted with an interior PVA paint will often stick to the door frames which are most often painted with the same paint. The doors will stick and be hard to open. Similarily, double hung windows painted with PVA paint with stick to each other and be hard to open and close.

In both cases, on the bathroom walls and ceiling, and on interior doors and painted windows, the fix is easy. Simply paint over the PVA paint with a PMMA paint to correct the problem.

I fully expect the problem with the door weather stripping sticking to the door frame is caused by the paint used on the door frame. Painting over the door frame with a better quality interior latex paint should correct the problem.

Hope this helps.

You can learn more than you need or want to know about latex paints at the Rohm & Haas "Paint Quality Institute" web site.

Paint Quality Institute - Painting information and resources for home interiors and exteriors

The Paint Quality Institute was established and is funded by the Rohm & Haas Company to teach architects, professional painters and paint consumers (presumably people who drink paint) about the benefits of using top quality latex paints. Part of that effort was the publication of several brochures that were available free of charge in paint stores across North America:

Continuing Education Requirements for painting tips and advice - Paint Quality Institute

Download and read:

"The Ingredients of Paint and Their Impact on Paint Properties"

and, if you're interested in the pigments used to give paint colour and opacity,

"How Colour is Affected by the Ingredients of Paint".

If you read and understand the first of these two brochures, you'll know more about latex paint than 95% of the people working in paint stores.

That "Continuing Education Series" was replaced with "PQI Magazine" which contains articles about latex paint, but these articles are really "dumbed down" so far as the chemistry and physics of paint film formation goes.

Dr. Otto Rohm and Mr. Otto Haas formed a company called Rohm & Haas in Germany which originally produced a chemical that was used in the tanning of leather. The company grew during WWI with the demand for leather for boots and uniforms. After WWI, Haas moved to Philadelphia to establish the company in the United States, and Rohm & Haas was the first company to cast polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) into sheets. They called these cast sheets of plastic "Plexiglas", and with the outbreak of WWII, the Rohm & Haas Company manufactured Plexiglas canopies for both American and German warplanes. The Rohm & Haas Company was the largest manufacturer of the acrylic resins used to make latex paints, acrylic floor finishes, grout and masonry sealers and nail polish for the ladies in North America until 2009 when they were purchased by the Dow Chemical Company.

On 9/3/2014 5:17 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:17:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

Paint in thinner coats, so it cures faster. The WS sticks mostly
because folks may use "one coat is best" when two thin coats are
better. It "skins over" - to thick, the paint will not cure as fast
or as well and leaves none cured paint underneath. It feels dry but
can still be none-cured on a thicker coat.


While that may be true in some situations it is not a universal truth. I
put new vinyl weatherstripping on my front door which had not been painted
in all the years I've owned the house since the door is protected from sun
and weather and was in excellent condition. The vinyl stuck to the 14+
year-old paint quite effectively and after over a year it still sticks and
'pops' every time I open the door.

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 01:55:20 +0200, nestork
wrote:


Latex primers and paints in North America are predominantly made from
one of two different kinds of plastic:

Snip

Basically, when it comes to paint, PMMA resins are superior to PVA
resins in that they:
a) stick to damp surfaces better
b) they form a harder, more protective film
c) they form a film that's more acid, alkali and UV resistant
d) they form a film that's more resistant to moisture.

More Snippage


Excellent post. Thank you.

My understanding is that the vinyl in the weather strip reacts with the latex paint. (Read this on several other sites). Solution is to use a silicon rubber weather strip. It won't stick to the latex paint.

Well, the kind of paint that remains kinda sticky even after it's fully dry is paint or primer made with PVA (polyvinyl acetate) resins. I'd believe that if the vinyl weather stripping had an attraction to any kind of paint, it would be a paint that's made out of polyVINYL acetate. From a chemistry point of view, that at least makes some kinda horse sense.

But, as with anything you read on the internet, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the references you found who said the vinyl weather stripping reacts with the paint prolly know next to nothing about it. One person suggested that as an explanation and the others simply parroted him/her.

On 11/16/2014 1:45 AM, wrote:
My understanding is that the vinyl in the weather strip reacts with the latex paint. (Read this on several other sites). Solution is to use a silicon rubber weather strip. It won't stick to the latex paint.


I'd try spraying with silicone first. It may just need that once a year
or so. Or even wax.