Hey,

So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround
system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

Many thanks,



--

"John Galt" wrote in
message oups.com...
Hey,
So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround
system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

What is the voltage where you are at ? It may be 240 volts. You could have
blown the adapter if it is not rated for the current of the sound system.
See if you may have just blown a fuse on the sound system.

On Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:44:02 +0000, John Galt
wrote:

Hey,

So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround

I don't know what your simple adapter piece is. Details?

By phone, do you mean cell phone? Don't hold back these things or make
us beg for information to solve your problem.

How do you know the adapter piece made the computer and phone work?

Computers, desktop or laptop, have been designed to run both on 120 or
240 (or anywhere in between) for at least 10 years. So have cell
phone chargers. You could see this by looking at the label on each
device, where it say model, serial number, voltage, and amperage and has
some text too.

system (120v 60hz).

I don't know what an american surround sound is either. A dvid
player? But if it only runs on 120V, you're going to burn it out with
240. Does your adapter piece change 240 to 120?

It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

Before you buy something, I'd plug your sound into 120 and see if it
works. If you don't know anyone with 120, I'd go to the store where
you plan to buy power converter (which can mean a lot of things, but I
gather you mean to change 240 v to 120) and see if they will let you
plug it in and plug your sound into it. To see if it works. But my
guess is that it won't. That doesn't mean it can't be fixed, but
you'll have to tell everyone the make and model of your sound, and ask
on sci.electronics.repair, where more than half the answers will be
beyond your comprehension, and mine, but that doesn't mean they won't
answer your question in laymen's language.

Many thanks,

On Tuesday, June 17, 2014 9:29:36 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:44:02 +0000, John Galt

wrote:



Hey,



So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..

and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround



I don't know what your simple adapter piece is. Details?



I would think "simple adapter" means that it converts the socket
so that you can plug the device in, but does nothing about the
voltage, freq, etc. That's fine for devices that use their own
walwart that is designed to work with 120/240, 50/60hz, etc. But
if you use one on an appliance like a stereo, that typically is not
designed that way, then POOF! Sounds like that's what happened here.
If he's lucky it might just be a fuse.




By phone, do you mean cell phone? Don't hold back these things or make

us beg for information to solve your problem.



How do you know the adapter piece made the computer and phone work?



Computers, desktop or laptop, have been designed to run both on 120 or

240 (or anywhere in between) for at least 10 years.

I wouldn't assume that all have, I'd check to be sure. AFAIK there is no
reqt for it and who knows for sure what every manufacturer is doing.
I'm not so sure about the in between part either. I've seen
desktop PCs that have a switch on the back for 120 or 240V. I would
think it might not like 160V on either, but IDK for sure. And if
the switch is set to 120V and he did what he just did with the surround,
I would think the result might not be good either.



So have cell

phone chargers. You could see this by looking at the label on each

device, where it say model, serial number, voltage, and amperage and has

some text too.



system (120v 60hz).



I don't know what an american surround sound is either. A dvid

player? But if it only runs on 120V, you're going to burn it out with

240. Does your adapter piece change 240 to 120?



It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually

like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown

it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?



Before you buy something, I'd plug your sound into 120 and see if it

works.


And before he plugs anything in, he should look on the
back of it. A surround sound almost certainly has a label on the
back that says what voltage/freq it will accept. And if not, the
documentation is available online.

trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 17, 2014 9:29:36 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:44:02 +0000, John Galt

wrote:



Hey,



So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..

and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround



I don't know what your simple adapter piece is. Details?



I would think "simple adapter" means that it converts the socket
so that you can plug the device in, but does nothing about the
voltage, freq, etc. That's fine for devices that use their own
walwart that is designed to work with 120/240, 50/60hz, etc. But
if you use one on an appliance like a stereo, that typically is not
designed that way, then POOF! Sounds like that's what happened here.
If he's lucky it might just be a fuse.




By phone, do you mean cell phone? Don't hold back these things or make

us beg for information to solve your problem.



How do you know the adapter piece made the computer and phone work?



Computers, desktop or laptop, have been designed to run both on 120 or

240 (or anywhere in between) for at least 10 years.

I wouldn't assume that all have, I'd check to be sure. AFAIK there is no
reqt for it and who knows for sure what every manufacturer is doing.
I'm not so sure about the in between part either. I've seen
desktop PCs that have a switch on the back for 120 or 240V. I would
think it might not like 160V on either, but IDK for sure. And if
the switch is set to 120V and he did what he just did with the surround,
I would think the result might not be good either.



So have cell

phone chargers. You could see this by looking at the label on each

device, where it say model, serial number, voltage, and amperage and has

some text too.



system (120v 60hz).



I don't know what an american surround sound is either. A dvid

player? But if it only runs on 120V, you're going to burn it out with

240. Does your adapter piece change 240 to 120?



It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually

like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown

it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?



Before you buy something, I'd plug your sound into 120 and see if it

works.


And before he plugs anything in, he should look on the
back of it. A surround sound almost certainly has a label on the
back that says what voltage/freq it will accept. And if not, the
documentation is available online.

Hi,
Sorry to say this, is OP dumb or stupid or drunk or what?

On Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:44:02 +0000, John Galt
wrote:

Hey,

So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround
system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

Many thanks,

And don't put relevant information only in the subject line. Put it in
the body of the post where it will be seen. If you wrote a paper for
publication, would you put one of the facts only on the title page and
not in the paper itself?

John Galt wrote:
Hey,
So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround
system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?
Many thanks,


Hi,
You should've used step down x-former, not dinky tiny adapter.

On 06/17/2014 06:44 PM, John Galt wrote:
Hey,
So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..
and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround
system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually
like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown
it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?
Many thanks,




If it's a standard desktop or tower, there is a switch on the power
supply to change the input to 240 so you would not need an adapter for that.


Also: If the monitor and phone operate off a so called "power brick"
read the label carefully as some are designed for 115/230 volts
automatically.

The less hardware you need connected to your 115/230 transformer, the
less the chance of you exceeding it's rating.

On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:27:38 AM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/17/2014 06:44 PM, John Galt wrote:

Hey,

So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc...

and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround

system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually

like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown

it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

Many thanks,









If it's a standard desktop or tower, there is a switch on the power

supply to change the input to 240 so you would not need an adapter for that.





Also: If the monitor and phone operate off a so called "power brick"

read the label carefully as some are designed for 115/230 volts

automatically.



The less hardware you need connected to your 115/230 transformer, the

less the chance of you exceeding it's rating.

If you guys would read the subject you would see he is talking about a surround sound system.

To the OP,

Most likely what you were using for the phone/computer/etc was a simple plug adapter. These days almost all computer and phone power supplies are rated for 100vac to 240vac 50 or 60 cycles. So you can plug them in just about anywhere in the world if you have the right adapter to make them fit the socket.

Larger appliances like stereos, tvs, etc generally are designed for either 110-120vac or 220-240vac. A few of these will have a small switch in the back that lets you select one or the other. So you have most likely ruined it. You can certainly test with a real 220 to 110 converter or by plugging it in back in the states. It's possible you only broke things in the power supply section but it's also possible that the power surge damaged other components as well. If it's a entry level system and you are not capable of doing the repairs yourself then bin it. It won't be worth fixing.

On 06/18/2014 11:02 AM, jamesgang wrote:


If you guys would read the subject you would see he is talking about a surround sound system.




And in the message itself he said computer and phone

On Wed, 18 Jun 2014 11:44:53 -0500, philo* wrote:

On 06/18/2014 11:02 AM, jamesgang wrote:


If you guys would read the subject you would see he is talking about a surround sound system.




And in the message itself he said computer and phone
Which were not damaged.

On Wed, 18 Jun 2014 09:02:27 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang
wrote:

On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:27:38 AM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/17/2014 06:44 PM, John Galt wrote:

Hey,

So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..

and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround

system (120v 60hz). It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually

like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown

it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?

Many thanks,









If it's a standard desktop or tower, there is a switch on the power

supply to change the input to 240 so you would not need an adapter for that.





Also: If the monitor and phone operate off a so called "power brick"

read the label carefully as some are designed for 115/230 volts

automatically.



The less hardware you need connected to your 115/230 transformer, the

less the chance of you exceeding it's rating.

If you guys would read the subject you would see he is talking about a surround sound system.

To the OP,

Most likely what you were using for the phone/computer/etc was a simple plug adapter. These days almost all computer and phone power supplies are rated for 100vac to 240vac 50 or 60 cycles. So you can plug them in just about anywhere in the world if you have the right adapter to make them fit the socket.

Larger appliances like stereos, tvs, etc generally are designed for either 110-120vac or 220-240vac. A few of these will have a small switch in the back that lets you select one or the other. So you have most likely ruined it. You can certainly test with a real 220 to 110 converter or by plugging it in back in the states. It's possible you only broke things in the power supply section but it's also possible that the power surge damaged other components as well. If it's a entry level system and you are not capable of doing the repairs yourself then bin it. It won't be worth fixing.
I have had several experiences where, due to a bad neutral, among
other things, I have had to check and repair equipment that had high
voltage applied to the line - and in most cases it just blew the
internal fuse.