Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.

All wooden.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like
this ? Or,...?

Epoxy better ?

BTW: How well does epoxy usually work on wood ?

Any rules of when to use it on wood, and when not ?

Thanks,
Bob

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On 3/12/2014 1:44 PM, Bob wrote:
Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.

All wooden.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like
this ? Or,...?

Epoxy better ?

BTW: How well does epoxy usually work on wood ?

Any rules of when to use it on wood, and when not ?

Thanks,
Bob


I'm sure others will correct me, but....
I've had some success with gorilla glue
on wood repairs. I've had to wet the
wood, apply, clamp, and wipe the excess
ooze in about five or ten minutes. Leave
the repair clamped over night.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

I use normal Elmers wood glue on guitars. I think you want the bond to fail
first and not tear the wood apart so you can repair again if needed.

"Bob" wrote in message
...
Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.

All wooden.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like this
? Or,...?

Epoxy better ?

BTW: How well does epoxy usually work on wood ?

Any rules of when to use it on wood, and when not ?

Thanks,
Bob

---
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protection is active.
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On Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:44:54 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.

All wooden.

The wood is cracked or separated in the middle of a piece of wood?

As opposed to two pieces of wood, maybe with glue still on them, being
separated.

I'm going to assume the first.

If it's the second with glue still on them, and you can't scrape off the
glue and rough up the wood a little bit, I wouldnt' call the pieces wood
anymore. The outer surface is more important than what's underneath
it.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like
this ? Or,...?

Epoxy better ?

No. I wouldn't use that.

BTW: How well does epoxy usually work on wood ?

Who knows. I've always had fine results with white glue, Elmers usually
but some other brand when I found it in my brother's house.

And I've bought and used Titebond II when I heard it was v. good for
something that would get wet. Maybe it was outside. It was fine, but
I"m sure I'd already used Elmers for fence pickets that get rained on
and it was fine too.

Maybe some really hard wood would need something other than white but
that's just speculation.

Any rules of when to use it on wood, and when not ?

Thanks,
Bob

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Bob wrote:
Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.

Define "coming apart".

All wooden.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like this ? Or,...?


Like what?

Details please...

I use Titebond for all carpentry and cabinet work,
with new wood. I like to use the non-waterproof
type, in case the work has to be disassembled for
some reason.
For something old, other porous surfaces, or for
tropical hardwoods I like to use 5-minute epoxy. For
non-porous surfaces I use cyanoacrylate ("super glue"),
but that only works well when there's very good contact
and the materials are non-porous.

It depends, though, on what you're gluing. If you
have a large surface with a fresh break then Titebond
might work well. If you have very little surface then
an epoxy might be better.

On 3/12/2014 12:44 PM, Bob wrote:
Hi,

Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.

All wooden.

Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like
this ? Or,...?
....

All depends on what's broken and how...

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/glue.php

--

"Mayayana" wrote in message


For non-porous surfaces I use cyanoacrylate ("super glue"),
but that only works well when there's very good contact
and the materials are non-porous.

FWIW, here's a work around for that.

When I was a photographer I also sold frames. Big frames, 16 x 20 - 40 x
60. I had no room to store moldings so I used a chop service...tell them
the size and thay chop the pieces on a guillotine, send them to you and you
assemble.

The wood, of course, is porous; the miters were fairly close fitting and but
not very smooth. To get them smooth, I rubbed a piece of chalk over them,
gently blew off excess. When the CA is applied, it soaks into the chalk and
bonds it to the wood; the chalk is also now non-porous.

I used this technique on every frame I ever made over a 15 year period,
never used nails, none ever came apart.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

If I wanted the repaired joint to be as invisible as possible, I'd use white wood glue, like Elmer's or Weldbond. The advantage of white wood glues is that they dry clear, and that makes for the most invisible repairs. Clamp the joint tight, wipe up any white wood glue that oozes out of the joint with a damp rag or sponge, and allow to cure.

If I wanted the strongest repair I could get, I would use LePage's PL Premium construction adhesive. PL Premium now also comes in a high tack variety that gives a better initial grab, but you still want to clamp the joint tight as it cures. PL Premium is a moisture cure polyurethane, and because there's always some moisture in wood, it works particularily well on wood. To store a partially used tube of PL Premium, just squeeze a little out so that you can grab onto something, and store it in your freezer. When you want to use it again, take it out of the freezer, put it in your caulking gun and apply pressure to it. Then pull out the cured stuff at the end, and it should start to flow again, but very slowly. Allow time for it to warm up, and it should be ready to use again.