Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.

I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.

So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.

So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?

I am going to try some teflon tape to see if it helps seal it better.

On 01/30/2014 10:20 PM, Adam Kubias wrote:
Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.

I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.

So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.

So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?

What's behind it?

Jon

On 01/31/2014 12:47 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 01/30/2014 10:20 PM, Adam Kubias wrote:
Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.

I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.

So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.

So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?

What's behind it?

Jon






Yeah....there should be an access door behind the fixtures.
If not, then someone must have drywalled the area and it would be better
to cut open the drywall than to remove the tiles.

On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:15:05 -0600, philo* wrote:

On 01/31/2014 12:47 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 01/30/2014 10:20 PM, Adam Kubias wrote:
Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.

I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.

So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.

So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?

What's behind it?

Jon


Yeah....there should be an access door behind the fixtures.
If not, then someone must have drywalled the area and it would be better
to cut open the drywall than to remove the tiles.

If only. Behind my bathtub plumbing is my shower stall in the other
bathroom!!! So far so good.

I guess I could cut a hole in the tiled shower wall if I had to.

In Brooklyn, one bathtub backed against the kitchen wall, the shower
might have backed against the closet of the next bedroom, might have
even had a removeable panel.

But the 2nd bathtub backed against an ouside wall. That would have
been trouble on the fifth floor!!

On 01/31/2014 07:51 AM, micky wrote:
OX

I guess I could cut a hole in the tiled shower wall if I had to.

In Brooklyn, one bathtub backed against the kitchen wall, the shower
might have backed against the closet of the next bedroom, might have
even had a removeable panel.

But the 2nd bathtub backed against an ouside wall. That would have
been trouble on the fifth floor!!




My house is ancient and when it was time for me to replace the faucet
assembly a friend of mine who was a contractor told me I would never be
able to find the exact assembly I needed and the whole wall would have
to be opened up and new pipes put in.


If I went to one of the "big box" stores he would have been right...but
there is an excellent plumbing supply near my house and they still
stocked the identical assembly. The one I replaced was easily 40 years
old or more.


Whenever I have a project I tell them what I am doing, they then fetch
the *exact* parts I need and tell me *exactly* how to do it.


(Anyone who might live in Milwaukee...it's Crown Plumbing.)

philo wrote:
On 01/31/2014 07:51 AM, micky wrote:
OX

I guess I could cut a hole in the tiled shower wall if I had to.

In Brooklyn, one bathtub backed against the kitchen wall, the shower
might have backed against the closet of the next bedroom, might have
even had a removeable panel.

But the 2nd bathtub backed against an ouside wall. That would have
been trouble on the fifth floor!!




My house is ancient and when it was time for me to replace the faucet
assembly a friend of mine who was a contractor told me I would never be
able to find the exact assembly I needed and the whole wall would have to
be opened up and new pipes put in.


If I went to one of the "big box" stores he would have been right...but
there is an excellent plumbing supply near my house and they still
stocked the identical assembly. The one I replaced was easily 40 years old or more.


Whenever I have a project I tell them what I am doing, they then fetch
the *exact* parts I need and tell me *exactly* how to do it.


(Anyone who might live in Milwaukee...it's Crown Plumbing.)

We also have a plumbing supply house near us that I love. It's in the back
of a Kitchen and Bath Design Center. A lot of the contractors shop there.
As a homeowner you can get excellent advice from not only the folks behind
the counter but often from the contractors that are waiting on their
supplies.

For electrical parts (and advice) I use a electrical supply counter that's
in the back of a lighting design center. Same deal.

For one job, I actually "hired" a plumber to come to my house and tell me
what to do. We found a time that he was going to be nearby and I met him at
the house. I had already jack hammered the basement slab and exposed the
connection I needed to deal with. All he had to do was look in the hole and
tell me what to buy. Best $20 I ever spent 'cuz I wouldn't have figured it
out on my own.

On 2014-01-31 7:15 AM, philo wrote:
On 01/31/2014 12:47 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 01/30/2014 10:20 PM, Adam Kubias wrote:
Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.

I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.

So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.

So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?

What's behind it?

Jon






Yeah....there should be an access door behind the fixtures.
If not, then someone must have drywalled the area and it would be better
to cut open the drywall than to remove the tiles.

Drywalled. That is a much easier job.

On 01/31/2014 11:59 AM, Adam Kubias wrote:
X






Yeah....there should be an access door behind the fixtures.
If not, then someone must have drywalled the area and it would be better
to cut open the drywall than to remove the tiles.

Drywalled. That is a much easier job.



That should not be a bad job then, BTW: I advice cutting it with a knife
or something similar. I once cut open a wall with my sawzall and nicked
a copper pipe. Minor damage but not a good thing to do.

On 01/31/2014 09:03 AM, philo wrote:
On 01/31/2014 11:59 AM, Adam Kubias wrote:
X






Yeah....there should be an access door behind the fixtures.
If not, then someone must have drywalled the area and it would be better
to cut open the drywall than to remove the tiles.

Drywalled. That is a much easier job


That should not be a bad job then, BTW: I advice cutting it with a knife
or something similar. I once cut open a wall with my sawzall and nicked
a copper pipe. Minor damage but not a good thing to do.

You can get hand saws that work, provided that you don't shove them in
too far around plumbing, or like you said, a utility knife works if you
are patient (and don't want a big dusty mess).

I like to find out where the studs are first, then cut right up to the
inside edge of one, the idea being to sister another stud next to it as
the stud which holds the replacement panel.

Jon

philo* posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP




That should not be a bad job then, BTW: I advice cutting it with a knife
or something similar. I once cut open a wall with my sawzall and nicked
a copper pipe. Minor damage but not a good thing to do.

HAAAAA I did the same thing! Like a bull in a china shop - more power!

--
Tekkie

Adam,

How does the packing look? It's the bonnet packing that seals the stem as
it passes through the bonnet nut. Replacing the packing is much easier and
cheaper than replacing the faucet valve.

Dave M.

On 2014-01-31 7:29 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Adam,

How does the packing look? It's the bonnet packing that seals the stem as
it passes through the bonnet nut. Replacing the packing is much easier and
cheaper than replacing the faucet valve.

Dave M.



It's shredded again. Maybe if I just change that I will have it totally
working.

Adam,

It's shredded again. Maybe if I just change that I will have it totally
working.

What's shredded? Packing? Faucet washer? What's stripped? what type of
faucet is it?
If you take the "stripped" inner parts (the stem) to a hardware store
they'll sell you a brand new stem. Be sure to bring the stem with you to
the store, the threads are different for hot versus cold.

Dave M.

On 2014-01-31 12:52 PM, David L. Martel wrote:
Adam,

It's shredded again. Maybe if I just change that I will have it totally
working.

What's shredded? Packing? Faucet washer? What's stripped? what type of
faucet is it?
If you take the "stripped" inner parts (the stem) to a hardware store
they'll sell you a brand new stem. Be sure to bring the stem with you to
the store, the threads are different for hot versus cold.

Dave M.


I meant the packing is shredded (if that is the part which kind of
looks like a plastic washer). I brought the stem, and we replaced that
the first time, as well as the rubber washer at the end of the stem and
the o shaped gasket around the middle. The end washer got chewed right
up (probably because we sank it too deep) and so did the packing.

Adam,

We're having a communications failure. I'm not sure whether you are
working on the tub or the sink. I'm not sure whether you still have a
"stripped" problem after replacing the stem.
Something keeps shredding. I can't figure out what that part is. It could
be the faucet washer, an o-ring, or the bonnet packing Have you examined the
seat? Does it need replacing? Is it damaging the faucet washer?
I think that you have an easy repair and that you would be helped greatly
by watching a few YouTube videos. There are many good faucet rebuild videos.

Dave M.

On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 08:29:57 -0500, "David L. Martel"
wrote:

Adam,

How does the packing look? It's the bonnet packing that seals the stem as
it passes through the bonnet nut. Replacing the packing is much easier and
cheaper than replacing the faucet valve.

Dave M.


+ 1

Leaking at the stem packing rope

Leaking at the spout seat washer / valve seat

OP:

http://wetheadmedia.com/how-to-fix-seven-types-of-leaky-faucets/