I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

In article ,
says...

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Shouldn't be asbestos, most likely cloth wrap wire. Very common back
then and put inside of BX (armor).

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.
THat does not sound correct, are you in the US? or some 240 land
country?

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

Measure from the ground to each lead, see if you're getting 120v then..

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

It's possible that one particular line was wired for something like a
hot water heater or something that needed 230 volts.

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

Look on the box and see if the black and white are both going to the L1
and L2 legs, not ground/neutral. If so, it was wired for a 230 volt
application. Simply move the white wire over to the ground bus at the
panel..

Jamie

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only
2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Shouldn't be asbestos, most likely cloth wrap wire. Very common back
then and put inside of BX (armor).

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.
THat does not sound correct, are you in the US? or some 240 land
country?


This is USA.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

Measure from the ground to each lead, see if you're getting 120v then..


Measures 110v from each to ground

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

It's possible that one particular line was wired for something like a
hot water heater or something that needed 230 volts.

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

Look on the box and see if the black and white are both going to the L1
and L2 legs, not ground/neutral. If so, it was wired for a 230 volt
application. Simply move the white wire over to the ground bus at the
panel..

Jamie

This was a circuit that in hindsight was definitely 230/240v.

Was hoping to not do any work at the panel, because I'm not sure what else
is on that line. Wanted to just split the 240 at the terminal end.

On 12/28/13 6:26 PM, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior.
Only 2 wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires
each, one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no
neutral wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well
grounded however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the
neutral side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot of
wiring etc.

It happens that Dean Hoffman formulated :
On 12/28/13 6:26 PM, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior.
Only 2 wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires
each, one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no
neutral wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well
grounded however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the
neutral side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot of
wiring etc.

A small transformer will not be TO CODE.

Get an electrician and do it properly :')

--
John G

"Stumpy" wrote in
m:

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

*Very* bad. The cable armor will then become electrically live whenever the circuit is in use.

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

That's not the right standard. You need to call an electrician if you start to *act* dangerous.

And you're at that point now. What you propose doing is potentially deadly.

On Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:26:50 PM UTC-6, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2 wires, both black. Measures 240V rms. Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each, one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded however. I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not. How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral side of the outlet to the armored cable? And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

Any chance of running a neutral wire from the panel to where you want to split the 240V circuit into two 120V circuits. Are we talking 10 feet or 30 feet or a mile, or what???

On Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:26:50 PM UTC-6, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2 wires, both black. Measures 240V rms. Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each, one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded however. I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not. How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral side of the outlet to the armored cable? And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:26:50 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only
2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

If you are not using the 240v, re identify one of the wires white
(tape works) at both ends and connect that one to the neutral bus in
the panel. You then made a 120v circuit from the 240v circuit.

All right. I'm getting the impression that the right way to do this is to
change it at the panel. It's a 1953 panel and I'm reluctant to even open it
up right now. The extension cord solution is OK for now, hardwire later.

After serious thinking wrote :
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:26:49 +1100, John G
wrote:

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot of
wiring etc.

A small transformer will not be TO CODE.

Why not?

The SMALL transformer would have to be as big as the circuit 10 or 20
amps or whatever and I dont think you will find that setup anywhere in
the NEC.
You cannot just pick a transformer to do your current (sic) job and put
a normal outlet on the end.
Anyway the low side of the transformer will not be tied to ground etc
etc
DONT DO IT :-@ .

--
John G

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:26:50 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.
DO NOT use safety ground as neutral!!!!!!
100% against code - for good reason

wrote in message
...
On Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:26:50 PM UTC-6, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms. Leaving the junction box are some
armored cables containing 2 wires each, one black, one white. They also
put out 240V rms. There are no neutral wires or ground wires that I can
see. The armored cable is well grounded however. I had expected that the
black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not. How bad an idea would it be
to choose either the black or white wire and connect it to the hot side of
a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral side of the outlet to the
armored cable? And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel
dangerous.

Any chance of running a neutral wire from the panel to where you want to
split the 240V circuit into two 120V circuits. Are we talking 10 feet or 30
feet or a mile, or what???

-----------------------------------------------------------

No. The panel is now in the interior of the house. It has had additions
added so that what was the exterior is now in the center of the structure.
walls are very thick - maybe lathe and plaster construction. It would be
very hard to add a neutral wire from the panel. I could easily add a
neutral wire from some other junction box - hope an inspector never sees it.

I think I'll drop this project and just get by on a male plug plugged into
an outlet that then goes through a conduit to a duplex outlet. I'll get a
pro to do it right if I ever sell the house.

On 12/28/13 9:05 PM, John G wrote:
After serious thinking wrote :
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:26:49 +1100, John G
wrote:

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot
of wiring etc.

A small transformer will not be TO CODE.

Why not?

The SMALL transformer would have to be as big as the circuit 10 or 20
amps or whatever and I dont think you will find that setup anywhere in
the NEC.
You cannot just pick a transformer to do your current (sic) job and put
a normal outlet on the end.
Anyway the low side of the transformer will not be tied to ground etc etc
DONT DO IT :-@ .

There are probably some correction factors to this but 125 volts
times 20 amps equals 2500 watts. That's only 2.5 kva. A ten kva
transformer is probably a bit smaller than a five gallon bucket.
The two hot leads from the house supply the 240 and the shield
would be the equipment ground for the transformer. The secondary of the
transformer would be the 125 volt hot lead, and the neutral or grounded
conductor if you prefer. That wire would be tied to the transformer
equipment ground right in the transformer.
So what am I missing specifically?

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:18:19 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:26:50 PM UTC-6, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms. Leaving the junction box are some
armored cables containing 2 wires each, one black, one white. They also
put out 240V rms. There are no neutral wires or ground wires that I can
see. The armored cable is well grounded however. I had expected that the
black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not. How bad an idea would it be
to choose either the black or white wire and connect it to the hot side of
a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral side of the outlet to the
armored cable? And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel
dangerous.

Any chance of running a neutral wire from the panel to where you want to
split the 240V circuit into two 120V circuits. Are we talking 10 feet or 30
feet or a mile, or what???

-----------------------------------------------------------

No. The panel is now in the interior of the house. It has had additions
added so that what was the exterior is now in the center of the structure.
walls are very thick - maybe lathe and plaster construction. It would be
very hard to add a neutral wire from the panel. I could easily add a
neutral wire from some other junction box - hope an inspector never sees it.

I think I'll drop this project and just get by on a male plug plugged into
an outlet that then goes through a conduit to a duplex outlet. I'll get a
pro to do it right if I ever sell the house.
It is against code to run a separate neutral even if it WAS possible.

Dean Hoffman was thinking very hard :
On 12/28/13 9:05 PM, John G wrote:
After serious thinking wrote :
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:26:49 +1100, John G
wrote:

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot
of wiring etc.

A small transformer will not be TO CODE.

Why not?

The SMALL transformer would have to be as big as the circuit 10 or 20
amps or whatever and I dont think you will find that setup anywhere in
the NEC.
You cannot just pick a transformer to do your current (sic) job and put
a normal outlet on the end.
Anyway the low side of the transformer will not be tied to ground etc etc
DONT DO IT :-@ .

There are probably some correction factors to this but 125 volts times
20 amps equals 2500 watts. That's only 2.5 kva. A ten kva transformer is
probably a bit smaller than a five gallon bucket.
The two hot leads from the house supply the 240 and the shield would be
the equipment ground for the transformer. The secondary of the transformer
would be the 125 volt hot lead, and the neutral or grounded conductor if you
prefer. That wire would be tied to the transformer equipment ground right
in the transformer.
So what am I missing specifically?

Not accepted in any jurisdiction I know of for fixed wireing..
Neutral must be ONLY tied to GROUND at entry panel and ground must not
be used as a current carrier.
DONT DO IT :-@ .

--
John G

submitted this idea :
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:18:19 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:26:50 PM UTC-6, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms. Leaving the junction box are some
armored cables containing 2 wires each, one black, one white. They also
put out 240V rms. There are no neutral wires or ground wires that I can
see. The armored cable is well grounded however. I had expected that the
black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not. How bad an idea would it be
to choose either the black or white wire and connect it to the hot side of
a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral side of the outlet to the
armored cable? And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel
dangerous.

Any chance of running a neutral wire from the panel to where you want to
split the 240V circuit into two 120V circuits. Are we talking 10 feet or 30
feet or a mile, or what???

-----------------------------------------------------------

No. The panel is now in the interior of the house. It has had additions
added so that what was the exterior is now in the center of the structure.
walls are very thick - maybe lathe and plaster construction. It would be
very hard to add a neutral wire from the panel. I could easily add a
neutral wire from some other junction box - hope an inspector never sees it.

I think I'll drop this project and just get by on a male plug plugged into
an outlet that then goes through a conduit to a duplex outlet. I'll get a
pro to do it right if I ever sell the house.
It is against code to run a separate neutral even if it WAS possible.

And its most likely against code to run a cable from an OUTLET thru a
conduit to a duplex outlet.
DONT DO IT :-@ .

--
John G

No. The panel is now in the interior of the house. It has had
additions added so that what was the exterior is now in the center of
the structure. walls are very thick - maybe lathe and plaster
construction. It would be very hard to add a neutral wire from the
panel. I could easily add a neutral wire from some other junction box -
hope an inspector never sees it.

I think I'll drop this project and just get by on a male plug plugged
into an outlet that then goes through a conduit to a duplex outlet.
I'll get a pro to do it right if I ever sell the house.
It is against code to run a separate neutral even if it WAS possible.

And its most likely against code to run a cable from an OUTLET thru a
conduit to a duplex outlet.
DONT DO IT :-@ .

--
John G

That is the equivalent of running an extension cord through an obstacle. I
can unplug it at any time and would not be considered a permanent
improvement.

On 12/28/2013 10:14 PM, Stumpy wrote:

No. The panel is now in the interior of the house. It has had
additions added so that what was the exterior is now in the center
of the structure. walls are very thick - maybe lathe and plaster
construction. It would be very hard to add a neutral wire from the
panel. I could easily add a neutral wire from some other junction
box - hope an inspector never sees it.

I think I'll drop this project and just get by on a male plug
plugged into an outlet that then goes through a conduit to a duplex
outlet. I'll get a pro to do it right if I ever sell the house.
It is against code to run a separate neutral even if it WAS possible.

And its most likely against code to run a cable from an OUTLET thru a
conduit to a duplex outlet.
DONT DO IT :-@ .

--
John G

That is the equivalent of running an extension cord through an
obstacle. I can unplug it at any time and would not be considered a
permanent improvement.

Not rocket science...call the building inspector. His opinion is the
only one that counts.

On 12/28/2013 09:06 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:26:50 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only 2
wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,
one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral
wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded
however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.
DO NOT use safety ground as neutral!!!!!!
100% against code - for good reason




Correct!!!!

On Saturday, December 28, 2013 9:11:14 PM UTC-5, Stumpy wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:26:50 -0800, "Stumpy"

wrote:



I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks

like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior. Only

2

wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.



Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires each,

one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no neutral

wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well grounded

however.



I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.



How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and

connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral

side of the outlet to the armored cable?



And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.



If you are not using the 240v, re identify one of the wires white

(tape works) at both ends and connect that one to the neutral bus in

the panel. You then made a 120v circuit from the 240v circuit.



All right. I'm getting the impression that the right way to do this is to

change it at the panel.


That gets my vote too.





It's a 1953 panel and I'm reluctant to even open it

up right now. The extension cord solution is OK for now, hardwire later.

On 12/29/2013 10:08 AM, Fred Abse wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:26:50 -0800, Stumpy wrote:

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the neutral
side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

I think you mean "endangered".

Having read your post, I think you are already dangerous.

I don't think Miss Manners would have used
that choice of wording. But, the sentiment
is there. And, I agree.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:42:32 -0600, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 12/28/13 9:05 PM, John G wrote:
After serious thinking wrote :
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:26:49 +1100, John G
wrote:

A small transformer might be an alternative to replacing a lot
of wiring etc.

A small transformer will not be TO CODE.

Why not?

The SMALL transformer would have to be as big as the circuit 10 or 20
amps or whatever and I dont think you will find that setup anywhere in
the NEC.
You cannot just pick a transformer to do your current (sic) job and put
a normal outlet on the end.
Anyway the low side of the transformer will not be tied to ground etc etc
DONT DO IT :-@ .

There are probably some correction factors to this but 125 volts
times 20 amps equals 2500 watts. That's only 2.5 kva. A ten kva
transformer is probably a bit smaller than a five gallon bucket.

Perhaps you work for the power company, but I don't consider something
the size of a 5-gal bucket to be a "small transformer". Nor would it
be cheap.

The two hot leads from the house supply the 240 and the shield
would be the equipment ground for the transformer. The secondary of the
transformer would be the 125 volt hot lead, and the neutral or grounded
conductor if you prefer. That wire would be tied to the transformer
equipment ground right in the transformer.
So what am I missing specifically?

On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:21:20 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:16:07 -0500, wrote:

Perhaps you work for the power company, but I don't consider something
the size of a 5-gal bucket to be a "small transformer". Nor would it
be cheap.

The NEC would make a de facto "small transformer" less than 1 KVA.
Over that you have more onerous rules (ground electrodes etc)..

IEC considers 1000VAC to be "low voltage", too. I don't.

On 12/28/2013 06:26 PM, Stumpy wrote:
I've got a junction box with some 1953 sheathed cable feeding it. Looks
like asbestos fiber sheath with silver spray paint on the exterior.
Only 2 wires, both black. Measures 240V rms.

Leaving the junction box are some armored cables containing 2 wires
each, one black, one white. They also put out 240V rms. There are no
neutral wires or ground wires that I can see. The armored cable is well
grounded however.

I had expected that the black/white pairs were 120V, but they are not.

How bad an idea would it be to choose either the black or white wire and
connect it to the hot side of a 120V outlet, and then connect the
neutral side of the outlet to the armored cable?

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.




Here is the acceptable way to get 115v if you do NOT need 230v


Remove the white wire from the circuit breaker and connect it to the
panel neutral.


At your outlet, the white wire will be the 115v return
and the black wire the 115v "hot" .

The sheath should of course be ground.


This will work fine but assumes there is no 230v device anywhere that
was using the wiring.

And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

I think you mean "endangered".

Having read your post, I think you are already dangerous.

--
"Design is the reverse of analysis"
(R.D. Middlebrook)

Hopefully only to myself. I think and talk about many more things than I
actually do. I try to avoid undo risk.

Here is the acceptable way to get 115v if you do NOT need 230v


Remove the white wire from the circuit breaker and connect it to the
panel neutral.


At your outlet, the white wire will be the 115v return
and the black wire the 115v "hot" .

The sheath should of course be ground.


This will work fine but assumes there is no 230v device anywhere that
was using the wiring.



Yeah. I think that would be simplest too.

In article ,
says...


And yes, I will call an electrician if I start to feel dangerous.

I think you mean "endangered".

Having read your post, I think you are already dangerous.

--
"Design is the reverse of analysis"
(R.D. Middlebrook)

Hopefully only to myself. I think and talk about many more things than I
actually do. I try to avoid undo risk.

Be careful there, if you have any assets that are worth anything, the
managers or those loony bins, old age homes, are looking for people like
you!

They just love to take the family farm, accounts and maybe your
deformed buddy down the road, if there is any money in it for them!

Who was that you were talking to?

Jamie

On 12/29/2013 1:29 PM, Stumpy wrote:


Here is the acceptable way to get 115v if you do NOT need 230v
Remove the white wire from the circuit breaker and connect it to the
panel neutral.
At your outlet, the white wire will be the 115v return
and the black wire the 115v "hot" .
The sheath should of course be ground.
This will work fine but assumes there is no 230v device anywhere that
was using the wiring.


Yeah. I think that would be simplest too.

If you're skilled in panel boxes, that is. Call an
electrician if you feel dangerous.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..