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#1
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220 Volt Plugs
Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense.
I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul |
#2
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 08:36 AM, Pavel314 wrote:
Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Yes, different standards and current capacities: http://www.mikrocontroller.net/attac...eceptacles.gif Jon |
#3
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 11:36 AM, Pavel314 wrote:
Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Some are based on different ampere capacities. In 110 volt plugs, a config like this: | | O is 110 / 120 volt, 15 amp. Plug like this: - | O is 20 amps. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
#4
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220 Volt Plugs
In article ,
Pavel314 wrote: The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. Paul- It is common to purchase a new appliance without the electric cord. You would specify which connector is required for the cord, and purchase the cord separately. For my dryer, there were two standard versions, "new" and "old" style. To be sure, I made a photo and printed it to show the salesman. Unless your new water heater has a significantly higher current requirement, it may be easier to change your water heater cord for one with the correct connector, than to change the outlet. You might be able to salvage the cord from your old water heater if it is still in good condition. Fred |
#5
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 1:04 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:
It is common to purchase a new appliance without the electric cord. You would specify which connector is required for the cord, and purchase the cord separately. For my dryer, there were two standard versions, "new" and "old" style. To be sure, I made a photo and printed it to show the salesman. Unless your new water heater has a significantly higher current requirement, it may be easier to change your water heater cord for one with the correct connector, than to change the outlet. You might be able to salvage the cord from your old water heater if it is still in good condition. Fred Greenhouse heater, most likely to heat the air. Still, may be possible to use the old cord. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
#6
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 13:04:04 -0400, Fred McKenzie
wrote: In article , Pavel314 wrote: The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. Paul- It is common to purchase a new appliance without the electric cord. You would specify which connector is required for the cord, and purchase the cord separately. For my dryer, there were two standard versions, "new" and "old" style. To be sure, I made a photo and printed it to show the salesman. Unless your new water heater has a significantly higher current requirement, it may be easier to change your water heater cord for one with the correct connector, than to change the outlet. You might be able to salvage the cord from your old water heater if it is still in good condition. Fred MANY devices have "custom" cords that would be difficult to swap out for something else - and by changing the cord you can violate the CSA or UL certification of the device. |
#7
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314
wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul There are two theories on this. One is that aliens from various planets use different kinds of plugs and so different kinds of sockets are sold. The other is that hobos can tell from the socket if they are likely to get a handout or get chased away with a gun. |
#8
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314
wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Different amperage ratings, for 1. |
#9
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220 Volt Plugs
"Pavel314" wrote in message ... Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul No Paul there are no reason the only reason that could find that our OSH system is politically oriented like Washington. |
#10
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220 Volt Plugs
"Tony944" wrote in message
... "Pavel314" wrote in message ... Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul No Paul there are no reason the only reason that could find that our OSH system is politically oriented like Washington. Hi again many of you made comment about rating and protection safety factors so on and so on. Main reason for circuit breaker or fuses in Electrical panel is to protect property installation, it is not for you product or your device that you are plug-in', that is miss conception. Your devices that you are plug-in in supposedly have his on protection but yes lot of them don't come with its own protection so the circuit breaker or fuse is doing two jobs protecting installation property and your device what ever that maybe. Biggest problems with plug-in that usually something comes loose from ware out or simple it was not made right, when wires become loose in or on plug ins it will generate heat even so it may work okay until start to burn, if person grab for the plug and it is warm there is problem, which by most people ignored "big mistake"? If plug is warm in some cases hot it is either overloaded or something is loose that should be taking care of. Doing my life time in field service on many times I was force to demand from Costumer to act and take action either have me make fix it or get there own electricians to do it. One should also take in consideration the length of wire/cable is going to use example if you have 15amp. Circuit and you add 100 feet of cable that is also rated for 15 amps. that line will start to warm up and you will have voltage drop on the line. If you running some type of motor depend on motor LRA it may not even start up, you may need larger rating of cable/cord perhaps 20amp rating. The rules applyies to all application regardless what voltage are you using. |
#11
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220 Volt Plugs
Tony944 wrote:
"Tony944" wrote in message ... "Pavel314" wrote in message ... Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul No Paul there are no reason the only reason that could find that our OSH system is politically oriented like Washington. Hi again many of you made comment about rating and protection safety factors so on and so on. Main reason for circuit breaker or fuses in Electrical panel is to protect property installation, it is not for you product or your device that you are plug-in', that is miss conception. Your devices that you are plug-in in supposedly have his on protection but yes lot of them don't come with its own protection so the circuit breaker or fuse is doing two jobs protecting installation property and your device what ever that maybe. Biggest problems with plug-in that usually something comes loose from ware out or simple it was not made right, when wires become loose in or on plug ins it will generate heat even so it may work okay until start to burn, if person grab for the plug and it is warm there is problem, which by most people ignored "big mistake"? If plug is warm in some cases hot it is either overloaded or something is loose that should be taking care of. Doing my life time in field service on many times I was force to demand from Costumer to act and take action either have me make fix it or get there own electricians to do it. One should also take in consideration the length of wire/cable is going to use example if you have 15amp. Circuit and you add 100 feet of cable that is also rated for 15 amps. that line will start to warm up and you will have voltage drop on the line. If you running some type of motor depend on motor LRA it may not even start up, you may need larger rating of cable/cord perhaps 20amp rating. The rules applyies to all application regardless what voltage are you using. Hi, My favourite is Hubbel. Heavy stuff.... |
#12
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220 Volt Plugs
On Sat, 02 Nov 2013 11:37:20 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote: Tony944 wrote: "Tony944" wrote in message ... "Pavel314" wrote in message ... Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul No Paul there are no reason the only reason that could find that our OSH system is politically oriented like Washington. Hi again many of you made comment about rating and protection safety factors so on and so on. Main reason for circuit breaker or fuses in Electrical panel is to protect property installation, it is not for you product or your device that you are plug-in', that is miss conception. Your devices that you are plug-in in supposedly have his on protection but yes lot of them don't come with its own protection so the circuit breaker or fuse is doing two jobs protecting installation property and your device what ever that maybe. Biggest problems with plug-in that usually something comes loose from ware out or simple it was not made right, when wires become loose in or on plug ins it will generate heat even so it may work okay until start to burn, if person grab for the plug and it is warm there is problem, which by most people ignored "big mistake"? If plug is warm in some cases hot it is either overloaded or something is loose that should be taking care of. Doing my life time in field service on many times I was force to demand from Costumer to act and take action either have me make fix it or get there own electricians to do it. One should also take in consideration the length of wire/cable is going to use example if you have 15amp. Circuit and you add 100 feet of cable that is also rated for 15 amps. that line will start to warm up and you will have voltage drop on the line. If you running some type of motor depend on motor LRA it may not even start up, you may need larger rating of cable/cord perhaps 20amp rating. The rules applyies to all application regardless what voltage are you using. Hi, My favourite is Hubbel. Heavy stuff.... They make lighter stuff too. |
#13
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314
wrote: The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with I'm still waiting for the day when they can make an outlet with only ONE blade! Three seems excessive on any outlet, regardless if it's 120, 220, 480, or any other voltage. The ground is worthless and there should be a way to eliminate the neutral. Just supply the hot wire and eliminate the rest. Lets simplify America and stop using all that excess wire. |
#16
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 10:36 AM, Pavel314 wrote:
.... I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason forall these variations? Yes. There's the 20A/15A rating differences as well as to prevent inadvertent use in wrong voltage circuit plus ensuring polarity for the cases where it matters, the twist-lock types are for applications like overhead outlet where there needs to be a mechanical connection to keep in socket, etc., etc., etc., ... While there are some duplications/redundancies, much of that is for historical reasons as later standardization became more rigorous. -- |
#18
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220 Volt Plugs
wrote:
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Maybe this will shed some light on it http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...d_pins.svg.png I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? |
#19
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220 Volt Plugs
DerbyDad03 wrote: wrote: On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Maybe this will shed some light on it http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...d_pins.svg.png I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? Tons. They just noted the common uses for some of the configurations. To the OP, you can't just change the receptacle style randomly, you have to ensure that the circuit is the correct voltage and Ampacity to match the receptacle and also the device you intend to connect. Those different styles exist to prevent people from plugging a 120V device into a 240V circuit, or a 50A device into a 20A circuit or similar. |
#20
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 02:46 PM, Pete C. wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: wrote: On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Maybe this will shed some light on it http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...d_pins.svg.png I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? Tons. They just noted the common uses for some of the configurations. To the OP, you can't just change the receptacle style randomly, you have to ensure that the circuit is the correct voltage and Ampacity to match the receptacle and also the device you intend to connect. Those different styles exist to prevent people from plugging a 120V device into a 240V circuit, or a 50A device into a 20A circuit or similar. and it sounds like OP might have a 10-50 recep and a 6-15 plug, don't really want to be plugging a 15 amp or less device into a 50A circuit, unless the device itself has a main fuse or breaker. Important concept is recep amp rating must match the breaker, except in the instance of a 15A 120VAC recep being allowed on a 20A branch circuit. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#21
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 21:30:12 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote: On 10/31/2013 02:46 PM, Pete C. wrote: DerbyDad03 wrote: wrote: On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Maybe this will shed some light on it http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...d_pins.svg.png I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? Tons. They just noted the common uses for some of the configurations. To the OP, you can't just change the receptacle style randomly, you have to ensure that the circuit is the correct voltage and Ampacity to match the receptacle and also the device you intend to connect. Those different styles exist to prevent people from plugging a 120V device into a 240V circuit, or a 50A device into a 20A circuit or similar. and it sounds like OP might have a 10-50 recep and a 6-15 plug, don't really want to be plugging a 15 amp or less device into a 50A circuit, unless the device itself has a main fuse or breaker. Important concept is recep amp rating must match the breaker, except in the instance of a 15A 120VAC recep being allowed on a 20A branch circuit. nate I'm not following why it's a problem to plug a 15 amp device into a 50 amp circuit, assuming they are both, say 220volts. How is it any different then plugging a cell phone charger into a 15amp 120v circuit? |
#22
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220 Volt Plugs
"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message ... On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 21:30:12 -0400, Nate Nagel and it sounds like OP might have a 10-50 recep and a 6-15 plug, don't really want to be plugging a 15 amp or less device into a 50A circuit, unless the device itself has a main fuse or breaker. Important concept is recep amp rating must match the breaker, except in the instance of a 15A 120VAC recep being allowed on a 20A branch circuit. nate I'm not following why it's a problem to plug a 15 amp device into a 50 amp circuit, assuming they are both, say 220volts. How is it any different then plugging a cell phone charger into a 15amp 120v circuit? I don't see that as a problem either. Maybe in some devices that do not have any internal protection it could. The devices plugged in should have their own fuses/breakers for their own protection. The main breaker is to protect the wiring. |
#23
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 11:21 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
wrote: Maybe this will shed some light on it http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...d_pins.svg.png I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? Welders operate on a duty cycle, so code allows you to "downgrade" the wire size from the listed amps of the unit, since the unit cannot be run continuously. The outlet has to be labeled that it is specified for a welder, though, so nobody plugs in a continuous-duty appliance. Jon |
#24
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 01:21 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
[snip] I could use a little more light to be shed... Why do they use the text "Welder or Plasma Cutter" above the L6-20 and L6-30 plugs? Are there no other devices that use a locking 20A or 30A plug? Generators often have locking recepticles, maybe because of the vibration loosening non-locking plugs. -- 55 days until The winter celebration (Wed 25 Dec, 2013 12:00 AM for 1 day). Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us "It's difficult to prove a sleeping cat's presence in a dark room, especially when there's no cat." |
#25
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220 Volt Plugs
On Thursday, October 31, 2013 3:49:22 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Are you sure the old heater was 240v? The plug you describe is a 30a 120v plug. The new heater would "work" on 120v but at about 1/4th the output. Yes, it was a 240v. On the link http://www.mikrocontroller.net/attac...eceptacles.gif the original plug is in row 7, 20R, while the new one is in row 6, 30R. The new heater is rated at 30 amps. Thanks to all for their comments and links. Paul |
#26
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220 Volt Plugs
wrote: On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:15:30 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: On Thursday, October 31, 2013 3:49:22 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Are you sure the old heater was 240v? The plug you describe is a 30a 120v plug. The new heater would "work" on 120v but at about 1/4th the output. Yes, it was a 240v. On the link http://www.mikrocontroller.net/attac...eceptacles.gif the original plug is in row 7, 20R, while the new one is in row 6, 30R. The new heater is rated at 30 amps. Thanks to all for their comments and links. Paul That 7-20R is for 277v, (the L/N of 480v wye). Again it would work on 240v but at lower power. If the original was 277V and they connect a 240V rated heater to it, the heater will run at higher power and may overheat. |
#27
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220 Volt Plugs
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#28
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220 Volt Plugs
On 11/01/2013 08:28 PM, Pete C. wrote:
wrote: On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 11:56:36 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: wrote: the original plug is in row 7, 20R, while the new one is in row 6, 30R. The new heater is rated at 30 amps. Thanks to all for their comments and links. Paul That 7-20R is for 277v, (the L/N of 480v wye). Again it would work on 240v but at lower power. If the original was 277V and they connect a 240V rated heater to it, the heater will run at higher power and may overheat. I was thinking the other way, 277 heater on 240v. It is unlikely anyone would have 277v available anywhere but a heavy industrial complex or large office building. Greenhouse heater, not necessarily a small greenhouse, could be a big farm with 480/3. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 277 then installing a 240 rated heater on that circuit would be a problem. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 240 it would have been running at less than full power and a new 240 rated unit operating on 240 would perform better. Agreed on both points. The OP needs to figure out what they really have both for power and for the heater. Yes... so we've identified the plug on the new heater (NEMA 6-30P) Or have we? What is the nameplate amp rating on the new heater? 6-15P looks similar to 6-30P but is physically smaller. 6-15P also similar in size and shape as 5-15 (standard household 3-wire plug/recep) or 5-20 (similar 20A plug/recep, with the neutral horizontal instead of vertical) except both current carrying blades are horizontal. Question is now, what voltage is available at the existing recep, what gauge wire is feeding it, and what is the amp rating of the breaker protecting the circuit? Finding a 277VAC recep on a 240VAC circuit would not be proper, although I am slowly learning to expect things to not always be correct or code compliant. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#29
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220 Volt Plugs
On Friday, November 1, 2013 9:32:38 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 19:28:17 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: wrote: I was thinking the other way, 277 heater on 240v. It is unlikely anyone would have 277v available anywhere but a heavy industrial complex or large office building. Greenhouse heater, not necessarily a small greenhouse, could be a big farm with 480/3. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 277 then installing a 240 rated heater on that circuit would be a problem. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 240 it would have been running at less than full power and a new 240 rated unit operating on 240 would perform better. The OP needs to figure out what they really have both for power and for the heater. I guess we need more info from the OP. The greenhouse is 14' by 12', just a hobby greenhouse for my wife, nothing industrial or commercial. The line is 240v. Both heaters are rated at 30 amp. Paul |
#30
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220 Volt Plugs
On 11/03/2013 03:26 PM, Pavel314 wrote:
On Friday, November 1, 2013 9:32:38 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 19:28:17 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: wrote: I was thinking the other way, 277 heater on 240v. It is unlikely anyone would have 277v available anywhere but a heavy industrial complex or large office building. Greenhouse heater, not necessarily a small greenhouse, could be a big farm with 480/3. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 277 then installing a 240 rated heater on that circuit would be a problem. If the original heater was a 277 rated unit operated on 240 it would have been running at less than full power and a new 240 rated unit operating on 240 would perform better. The OP needs to figure out what they really have both for power and for the heater. I guess we need more info from the OP. The greenhouse is 14' by 12', just a hobby greenhouse for my wife, nothing industrial or commercial. The line is 240v. Both heaters are rated at 30 amp. Paul I thought you said the new heater had a 6-30P plug on it? Heater should be rated at something less than 30A then (I think 24A max, as a heater would be considered a continuous load? Not sure if there are special rules for heaters.) In any case, if you are certain that the line is 240V and not 277V, verify that the wire used is at least 10AWG, install a 6-30R receptacle for the heater, and change the breaker to a double pole 30A if necessary. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#31
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220 Volt Plugs
On 10/31/2013 03:49 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 08:36:12 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314 wrote: Our greenhouse heater wore out after a number of years so we bought a replacement. It's essentially the same heater except that the new one is a different color and the plug is a different configuration. The old one has one round pin and two flat blades, with the blades at an angle to each other and above the round pin. The new one also has one round pin and two flat blades but the blades are lined up with each other, so I have to replace the receptacle with one that matches the new plug. Not a major project, just a minor annoyance and expense. I've seen other 220 volt plug configurations; some have an L-shaped blade instead of the round pin, others have four blades in a circular pattern which lock when turned, etc. Is there any practical reason for all these variations? Paul Are you sure the old heater was 240v? The plug you describe is a 30a 120v plug. The new heater would "work" on 120v but at about 1/4th the output. just after I posted I realized that it might in fact be a TT-30 not a 10-50. Definitely needs more investigating. Is the old heater still available for inspection? -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
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