The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?


--
Steven L.

Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?


Hmmm,
Maybe you should call a plumber or a friend who is handy kinda guy.

On 10/26/2013 12:10 PM, Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist it
off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The only
connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around the
drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose back
onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I put
the clamp back on?


Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Paul

On 10/26/2013 3:10 PM, Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

Loosen the clamps and twist it off. If it is nasty inside, spend $12 for
a new on. Push the ends on, twist if you have to, tighten clamps.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight. I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight.

It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.

I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose
clamp I suspect he has.

Steven,

Does it look like this?

http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg

or this...

http://img.directindustry.com/images...13-2728969.jpg

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 01:53:48 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight.

It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.


The ones I've seen are made of wire - think of the old heater hose
clamps on cars, thick spring wire. I was differentiating between the
screw on type he indicated he saw on the disposal end with what I
think he'd see on the water pump end.

I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".


Pliers are the correct tool to use on what I referred to as "wire
clamps". But no, for the other clamp, on the disposal end, which he
obviously has seen, it would take a screwdriver or nutdrivdrer.

Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose
clamp I suspect he has.

Steven,

Does it look like this?

http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg

or this...

http://img.directindustry.com/images...13-2728969.jpg

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 01:53:48 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight.

It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.


The ones I've seen are made of wire - think of the old heater hose
clamps on cars, thick spring wire. I was differentiating between the
screw on type he indicated he saw on the disposal end with what I
think he'd see on the water pump end.


Google "wire clamp". Just because it's made of wire doesn't make it a "wire
clamp", especially since there really is something specifically known as a
"wire clamp". Whether it's the screw on type or this type, it's still a
hose clamp.

http://commonwealthinc.ca.c9.preview...hose_clamp.jpg

Keep in mind that the OP admitted to being a newbie, so we should make sure
we keep the terms we use accurate.

I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

Pliers are the correct tool to use on what I referred to as "wire
clamps". But no, for the other clamp, on the disposal end, which he
obviously has seen, it would take a screwdriver or nutdrivdrer.

Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose
clamp I suspect he has.

Steven,

Does it look like this?

http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg

or this...

http://img.directindustry.com/images...13-2728969.jpg

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 4:39:08 PM UTC-7, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 10/26/2013 12:10 PM, Steven L. wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage

disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is

starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in

there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my

allergies.



I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.



Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose

onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose

from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist it

off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The only

connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around the

drain nose.)



I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose

and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?



And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose back

onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I put

the clamp back on?





Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.

Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a

couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!



Paul

That's interesting! Do you think a monthly dose of TSP will help keep pipes clear? I just blew a bundle on kitchen and bathroom sink plumbers. They talked about "maintenance". Guess I was just stupid, thinking that if I didn't put fat, etc. down the kitchen sink & rarely used disposal, everything would be fine. Hah!

Now I do want to do regular maintenance, so asking if you recommend monthly TSP.
If not, other suggestion?

TIA

HB

"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

There should only be the single hose clamps. Can you get a camera in there
so we can se for sure what we're dealing with?

The hose should be "pressed fit" on which means that it's not exactly loose
enough to fall right off but it should come off with a small amount of
twisting. The longer it's been on, the harder it usually is to remove the
hose. Also, be careful with the amount of force you use because over time
the plastic fitting (I assume) the hose attaches to may have become brittle.
The trick to successful home repair is to keep from making things worse by
trying to fix them. (-;

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

Compressed air (be sure to cover the drain with wet rags) sometimes works if
you have an air compressor. A bottle brush or a dowel would pose less of a
puncture threat than a coat hanger and provide a wide cross-section area to
push out the clogs. I bought a very small snake (flexible coiled wire) from
Harbor Freight that works very well with such hoses. I'll look up the part
if you think you might try that method. It can maneuver around twists and
turns in the hose and is probably a much better choice than a dowel or any
of the other stuff.

I would only remove one end of the hose - the one with the screw-on clamp
and then see if I could clear it without disturbing the other end,
especially if it has a different kind of clamp. That may well be the case
if the manufacturer installed the hose, and not a plumber. Manufacturers
use clips that can be installed by speedily by machine and they are trickier
to remove and replace successfully by humans. If there's no screw on the
second clip, leave it alone until you have no choice but to remove it.

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

If it was snug enough that it didn't just fall off in your hands, you don't
need to do anything special to put it back on other than making sure the
hose clamp is snug. You may find it's so snug that you need to apply a
little dishwashing detergent to the inside of the hose to help it slide onto
the mating pipe nipple.

All that said, you can't go wrong listening to Mr. Drahn (really?) and
trying the TSP route first.

Do you have a filter in your dishwasher that might be missing?

http://www.imperfecthomemaking.com/2...r-without.html

--
Bobby G.

On 10/26/2013 7:39 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 10/26/2013 12:10 PM, Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist it
off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The only
connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around the
drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose back
onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I put
the clamp back on?


Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Really???

I would never have thought of that in a million years.

I'll give it a try.



--
Steven L.

On 10/26/2013 9:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight.

It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.

I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose
clamp I suspect he has.


Of course, I was going to loosen the clamp, slide it down the hose,
before trying to disconnect the hose. I was just wondering if then the
hose would just twist off the disposal or if there was some other
"gotcha" I didn't know about.


Steven,

Does it look like this?

http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg

YES. ** THIS. **



or this...

http://img.directindustry.com/images...13-2728969.jpg

NO. ** NOT THIS. **



--
Steven L.

On 10/27/2013 5:35 AM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:39 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 10/26/2013 12:10 PM, Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist it
off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The only
connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around the
drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose back
onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I put
the clamp back on?


Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Really???

I would never have thought of that in a million years.

I'll give it a try.



We ran a cycle with a half gallon of 6% vinegar, followed by a cycle
using only TSP and all the crap and stink was gone.

Paul

On Sunday, October 27, 2013 8:41:35 AM UTC-4, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/26/2013 9:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."

wrote:



The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage

disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is

starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in

there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my

allergies.



I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.



Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose

onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose

from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist

it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The

only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around

the drain nose.)



I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose

and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?



And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose

back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I

put the clamp back on?



There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate

to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model

dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view

of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture

how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp

to keep it tight.



It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.



I don't think you can just "pull it off" without

using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple

first.



Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since

he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".



Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose

clamp I suspect he has.





Of course, I was going to loosen the clamp, slide it down the hose,

before trying to disconnect the hose. I was just wondering if then the

hose would just twist off the disposal or if there was some other

"gotcha" I didn't know about.





Steven,



Does it look like this?



http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg



YES. ** THIS. **



So you loosen the clamp, slide it out of the way and
then the hose comes off by pulling and twisting it
back and forth. Given that you said the hose is showing
signs of deteriorating, I wouldn't waste time cleaning
it, just replace it. The other end may be accessible
by removing the cover panel at the bottom of the front
of the dishwasher. Hopefully it doesn't require
pulling the dishwasher out.

The hose should be routed so that between the disposal
and the dishwasher it comes up high, to the bottom of
the counter top. Either that or some will have an
airgap in between. Either is there to help prevent
waste water from getting into the dishwasher.

On 10/27/2013 12:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

There should only be the single hose clamps. Can you get a camera in there
so we can se for sure what we're dealing with?


Here it is.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8994/r610.jpg

I'm sorry it's blurred; my camera insisted on focusing on the background
instead.



The hose should be "pressed fit" on which means that it's not exactly loose
enough to fall right off but it should come off with a small amount of
twisting. The longer it's been on, the harder it usually is to remove the
hose. Also, be careful with the amount of force you use because over time
the plastic fitting (I assume) the hose attaches to may have become brittle.
The trick to successful home repair is to keep from making things worse by
trying to fix them. (-;

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

Compressed air (be sure to cover the drain with wet rags) sometimes works if
you have an air compressor. A bottle brush or a dowel would pose less of a
puncture threat than a coat hanger and provide a wide cross-section area to
push out the clogs. I bought a very small snake (flexible coiled wire) from
Harbor Freight that works very well with such hoses. I'll look up the part
if you think you might try that method. It can maneuver around twists and
turns in the hose and is probably a much better choice than a dowel or any
of the other stuff.

I would only remove one end of the hose - the one with the screw-on clamp
and then see if I could clear it without disturbing the other end,
especially if it has a different kind of clamp. That may well be the case
if the manufacturer installed the hose, and not a plumber. Manufacturers
use clips that can be installed by speedily by machine and they are trickier
to remove and replace successfully by humans. If there's no screw on the
second clip, leave it alone until you have no choice but to remove it.

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

If it was snug enough that it didn't just fall off in your hands, you don't
need to do anything special to put it back on other than making sure the
hose clamp is snug. You may find it's so snug that you need to apply a
little dishwashing detergent to the inside of the hose to help it slide onto
the mating pipe nipple.

All that said, you can't go wrong listening to Mr. Drahn (really?) and
trying the TSP route first.

Do you have a filter in your dishwasher that might be missing?

No, the problem is that its drain hose dips down way below the height of
the disposal. As a result, whenever I pour water into my kitchen sink,
it (and any debris in the sink) goes BACKWARDS into my dishwasher!

Many times, I have found waste water and debris in my dishwasher even
though I didn't run it. It came from my kitchen sink.




http://www.imperfecthomemaking.com/2...r-without.html

--
Bobby G.





--
Steven L.

On 10/27/2013 8:35 AM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:39 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Really???

I would never have thought of that in a million years.

I'll give it a try.

The chemical called tri sodium phosphate, the government
took it out of laundry detergents, years ago. And out of
dish detergent about a year ago.

It's still sold in a few paint sections of hardware
stores. Used to wash walls before painting. Be sure
to read the ingredients, some TSP is silicate, not
phosphate.

It greatly helped the detergent action. But, someone
decided it was harming the environment.

Recently taken out of dish washer detergents, it had been
removed from laundry detergent, years ago. Now, we all
walk around in dirty clothes. And eat off dirty dishes.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 08:35:11 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:




Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Really???

I would never have thought of that in a million years.

I'll give it a try.

Your government at work. New formula of the dish detergent no longer
contains phosphate so the lack of it may be adding to your problems.
Be sure you get real TSP and not some substitute with the same name.

On 10/27/2013 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, October 27, 2013 8:41:35 AM UTC-4, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/26/2013 9:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."

wrote:



The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage

disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is

starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in

there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my

allergies.



I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.



Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose

onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose

from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist

it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The

only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around

the drain nose.)



I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose

and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?



And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose

back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I

put the clamp back on?



There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate

to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model

dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view

of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture

how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp

to keep it tight.



It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.



I don't think you can just "pull it off" without

using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple

first.



Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since

he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".



Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose

clamp I suspect he has.





Of course, I was going to loosen the clamp, slide it down the hose,

before trying to disconnect the hose. I was just wondering if then the

hose would just twist off the disposal or if there was some other

"gotcha" I didn't know about.





Steven,



Does it look like this?



http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg



YES. ** THIS. **



So you loosen the clamp, slide it out of the way and
then the hose comes off by pulling and twisting it
back and forth. Given that you said the hose is showing
signs of deteriorating, I wouldn't waste time cleaning
it, just replace it. The other end may be accessible
by removing the cover panel at the bottom of the front
of the dishwasher. Hopefully it doesn't require
pulling the dishwasher out.

The hose should be routed so that between the disposal
and the dishwasher it comes up high, to the bottom of
the counter top. Either that or some will have an
airgap in between. Either is there to help prevent
waste water from getting into the dishwasher.

I didn't say the hose is deteriorating, just clogged.

But it does dip down more than 6 inches between the disposal connector
and the hole in the cabinet that it goes through to get to the dishwasher.

I don't see any way to correct that without pulling the dishwasher out
of the wall.

Anyway, thanks for your advice. If all I have to do is pull and twist
and jiggle the hose after the clamp is fully released, it should go
smoothly.


--
Steven L.

On 10/26/2013 7:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Ashton wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."
wrote:

The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in
there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my
allergies.

I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate
to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model
dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view
of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture
how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp
to keep it tight.

It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.

Your second image below - "wire-hose-clamp".


I don't think you can just "pull it off" without
using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple
first.

Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

They are if it is a wire hose clamp.


Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose
clamp I suspect he has.

Steven,

Does it look like this?

http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg

OP says that is what is at the dishwasher.


or this...

http://img.directindustry.com/images...13-2728969.jpg

I don't think the OP has looked at the clamp at the dishwasher. Could be
either. This one is what is what is at my dishwasher, with a screw-type
clamp at the sink. YMMV.

Wire hose clamps can be a PITA to get off and on.

"Steven L." wrote in message
...
On 10/27/2013 12:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

There should only be the single hose clamps. Can you get a camera in
there
so we can se for sure what we're dealing with?


Here it is.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8994/r610.jpg

I'm sorry it's blurred; my camera insisted on focusing on the background
instead.

That's good enough! Screw on hose clamp - should be easy enough to remove
and replace.

stuff snipped

Do you have a filter in your dishwasher that might be missing?

No, the problem is that its drain hose dips down way below the height of
the disposal. As a result, whenever I pour water into my kitchen sink,
it (and any debris in the sink) goes BACKWARDS into my dishwasher!

Many times, I have found waste water and debris in my dishwasher even
though I didn't run it. It came from my kitchen sink.

Well, that's not right. )-" I believe you need a one way valve called a
check valve on the input to the disposal that only allows waste water to
flow OUT of the dishwasher and not back into dishwasher discharge hose.
That's not an area I am too familiar with so perhaps some of the plumbing
experts here can advise you on how to best to prevent the backflow of gunk
into the hose.

Can you adjust the hose or hang it from a pipe hanger so that it doesn't dip
like that? You could make a J hook with a coat hanger (or buy one at HD for
a buck) that would hold the hose high enough so that it wouldn't backflow as
much. I'd still prefer a check valve.

--
Bobby G.

bud-- wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

They are if it is a wire hose clamp.


I agree that pliers are the correct tool for a wire hose clamp. However,
the OP specific said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp". IMO the only
reasonable assumption is that it is not a wire hose clamp.

On 10/27/2013 10:19 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/27/2013 8:35 AM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:39 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
Get a box of TSP in the paint department of your local big-box store.
Use it instead of dish washing detergent and run the empty dishwasher a
couple of times. The gunk should be all gone. Be sure water is hot!

Really???

I would never have thought of that in a million years.

I'll give it a try.

The chemical called tri sodium phosphate, the government
took it out of laundry detergents, years ago. And out of
dish detergent about a year ago.

It's still sold in a few paint sections of hardware
stores. Used to wash walls before painting. Be sure
to read the ingredients, some TSP is silicate, not
phosphate.

It greatly helped the detergent action. But, someone
decided it was harming the environment.

Recently taken out of dish washer detergents, it had been
removed from laundry detergent, years ago. Now, we all
walk around in dirty clothes. And eat off dirty dishes.

Yes, I knew that removing phosphates was making cleaning harder for us.

I should have realized that removing phosphates would make clogs in
cleaning equipment more likely too.


--
Steven L.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
bud-- wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since
he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".

They are if it is a wire hose clamp.


I agree that .pliers are the correct tool for a wire hose clamp. However,
the OP specific said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp". IMO the only
reasonable assumption is that it is not a wire hose clamp.

Hi,
Maybe worm gear clamp
Then screw driver or nut driver will do.
Any how I never experienced DW drain hose clogging.
To me it is very unusual. Maybe because we don't indulge in too much
meat, greasy food? Our 20 YO GE DW needed a new pump/motor assembly.
Now I see main seal is going. As soon as it shows a sign of leak,
time to replace it. Maybe another GE or Whirlpool.

"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Yes, I knew that removing phosphates was making cleaning harder for us.

I should have realized that removing phosphates would make clogs in
cleaning equipment more likely too.

FWIW, "Someone" didn't arbitrarily decide to ban phosphates. There was an
incredibly detailed scientific analysis performed on the effects of
phosphates in wastewater. This is not a Federal ban, BTW. Just a handful
of states made the decision to ban phosphate detergents after years of
research. As a result the industry decided voluntarily to remove phosphates
from many of their products.

I don't know who's walking around with dirty clothes or eating off dirty
plates because of the removal of phosphates - certainly not me. If the
choice is a dead lake or bay full of dead fish or putting up with water
spotted dishes and perhaps grayer looking whites, I'll take the spots and
the gray every time. Cleaning up phosphate pollution costs big bucks so it
make sense not to let it get started if there are alternatives.

The issue is quite complex but I think most reasonable people can understand
the science behind the ban (mostly enacted by states with significant large
bodies of water susceptible to algae blooms caused by phosphoric
contamination):

By the late 1960s, nearly 10,000 public lakes had been effected by
excessive nutrient enrichment by human activities (ReVelle and ReVelle
1988). Lake Erie's deteriorating condition was of particular concern, and it
had been said that it had aged 15,000 years in the last 50 (Congressional
Report HR 91-1004 April 14, 1970). The approximately 20,000 lbs of
phosphorus per day going into the lake resulted in about a 2,600 square-mile
area of the lake with no oxygen within ten feet of the bottom (Beeton 1971).
As of 1967, mats of attached algae covered Lake Erie's shoreline, and
desirable fish such as whitefish, blue pike and walleye had either severely
declined or disappeared altogether (Congressional Report HR 91-1004 April
14, 1970).
The general feeling around the late 1960s was that the nation's lakes and
streams were getting more polluted each day, and phosphate detergents were
the primary reason. Half the phosphorus input to Lakes Erie and Ontario came
from municipal and industrial sources, of which 50% to 70% came from
detergents. Over half of the phosphorus input to the Potomac estuary also
came from detergents in municipal and industrial effluents (Congressional
Report HR 91-1004 April 14, 1970). It was generally agreed that detergents
accounted for about 50% of the wastewater phosphorus nationwide (Hammond
1971). There was a growing public consensus that in order to save lakes
(like Lake Erie), phosphates must be banned from detergents.

The scientific community made the first real effort to understand the
eutrophication process and problem. In April 1965 the National Academy of
Sciences (NAS) and National Research Council (NRC) appointed a Planning
Committee on Eutrophication in recognition of growing public concern over
eutrophication of lakes, streams and estuaries. This committee recommended
an international symposium, which was held at the University of Wisconsin on
June 11-15, 1967 and attended by almost 600 persons representing the U.S.
and 11 foreign countries. In addition to the NAS and NRC, the symposium was
sponsored by the US Atomic Energy Commission, the U.S. Dept. of Interior,
the National Science Foundation, the Office of Naval Research and the U.S.
Dept. of the Navy. Proceedings were published in Eutrophication: Causes,
Consequences, Correctives in 1969 by the NAS.

So that "someone" turned out to be closer to 600 "someones" all with
scientific backgrounds who decided that phosphates were causing real harm to
the environment.

http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/ful...Docs/94-54.htm

People tend to forget what some of our lakes and waterways used to look
like. Having lived near Lake Erie and the Chesapeake Bay I can say that
things have improved drastically as a result of the attention paid to
pollutants like phosphates. You can now swim in Lake Erie without
encountering huge mats of phosphate enhanced green slime.

--
Bobby G.

Robert Green wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Yes, I knew that removing phosphates was making cleaning harder for us.

I should have realized that removing phosphates would make clogs in
cleaning equipment more likely too.

FWIW, "Someone" didn't arbitrarily decide to ban phosphates. There was an
incredibly detailed scientific analysis performed on the effects of
phosphates in wastewater. This is not a Federal ban, BTW. Just a handful
of states made the decision to ban phosphate detergents after years of
research. As a result the industry decided voluntarily to remove phosphates
from many of their products.

I don't know who's walking around with dirty clothes or eating off dirty
plates because of the removal of phosphates - certainly not me. If the
choice is a dead lake or bay full of dead fish or putting up with water
spotted dishes and perhaps grayer looking whites, I'll take the spots and
the gray every time. Cleaning up phosphate pollution costs big bucks so it
make sense not to let it get started if there are alternatives.

The issue is quite complex but I think most reasonable people can understand
the science behind the ban (mostly enacted by states with significant large
bodies of water susceptible to algae blooms caused by phosphoric
contamination):

By the late 1960s, nearly 10,000 public lakes had been effected by
excessive nutrient enrichment by human activities (ReVelle and ReVelle
1988). Lake Erie's deteriorating condition was of particular concern, and it
had been said that it had aged 15,000 years in the last 50 (Congressional
Report HR 91-1004 April 14, 1970). The approximately 20,000 lbs of
phosphorus per day going into the lake resulted in about a 2,600 square-mile
area of the lake with no oxygen within ten feet of the bottom (Beeton 1971).
As of 1967, mats of attached algae covered Lake Erie's shoreline, and
desirable fish such as whitefish, blue pike and walleye had either severely
declined or disappeared altogether (Congressional Report HR 91-1004 April
14, 1970).
The general feeling around the late 1960s was that the nation's lakes and
streams were getting more polluted each day, and phosphate detergents were
the primary reason. Half the phosphorus input to Lakes Erie and Ontario came
from municipal and industrial sources, of which 50% to 70% came from
detergents. Over half of the phosphorus input to the Potomac estuary also
came from detergents in municipal and industrial effluents (Congressional
Report HR 91-1004 April 14, 1970). It was generally agreed that detergents
accounted for about 50% of the wastewater phosphorus nationwide (Hammond
1971). There was a growing public consensus that in order to save lakes
(like Lake Erie), phosphates must be banned from detergents.

The scientific community made the first real effort to understand the
eutrophication process and problem. In April 1965 the National Academy of
Sciences (NAS) and National Research Council (NRC) appointed a Planning
Committee on Eutrophication in recognition of growing public concern over
eutrophication of lakes, streams and estuaries. This committee recommended
an international symposium, which was held at the University of Wisconsin on
June 11-15, 1967 and attended by almost 600 persons representing the U.S.
and 11 foreign countries. In addition to the NAS and NRC, the symposium was
sponsored by the US Atomic Energy Commission, the U.S. Dept. of Interior,
the National Science Foundation, the Office of Naval Research and the U.S.
Dept. of the Navy. Proceedings were published in Eutrophication: Causes,
Consequences, Correctives in 1969 by the NAS.

So that "someone" turned out to be closer to 600 "someones" all with
scientific backgrounds who decided that phosphates were causing real harm to
the environment.

http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/ful...Docs/94-54.htm

People tend to forget what some of our lakes and waterways used to look
like. Having lived near Lake Erie and the Chesapeake Bay I can say that
things have improved drastically as a result of the attention paid to
pollutants like phosphates. You can now swim in Lake Erie without
encountering huge mats of phosphate enhanced green slime.

--
Bobby G.


Hi,
Same here. I liver on the bank of Bow river, one of famous trout fishing
water. Banning that chemical made a difference for sure.
Once I watched president George Bush floating by with a fishing guide
casting a line.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:fyebu.95142

Any how I never experienced DW drain hose clogging.
To me it is very unusual. Maybe because we don't indulge in too much
meat, greasy food?

I suspect it's more an issue of the dishwasher drain hose being routed
incorrectly and allowing debris from the sink to flow back into the drain
line as well as debris from the dishwasher to pool at a low spot.
Infrequent usage would allow the food particles to dry out and act like
cement, trapping even more food debris.

--
Bobby G.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:Ngjbu.85696

stuff snipped

http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/ful...Docs/94-54.htm

People tend to forget what some of our lakes and waterways used to look
like. Having lived near Lake Erie and the Chesapeake Bay I can say that
things have improved drastically as a result of the attention paid to
pollutants like phosphates. You can now swim in Lake Erie without
encountering huge mats of phosphate enhanced green slime.

Hi,
Same here. I liver on the bank of Bow river, one of famous trout fishing
water. Banning that chemical made a difference for sure.
Once I watched president George Bush floating by with a fishing guide
casting a line.

It's another case that if you see the damage caused with your own eyes, you
have a very different opinion of the issue. People living in areas without
large bodies of water have probably never seen a foamed-up shoreline or huge
mats of algae floating in the water.

Phospates have a negative effect on tourism, cost a lot of money for states
like Maryland and New York to clean up and were being dumped into bays,
lakes and rivers in enormous quantities. It's easy to think "What could my
little dishwasher hurt?" but you have to remember to multiply that by the
thousands of people running a dishwasher or washing machine every day.

As for your observations about the Bow River, they are quite correct:

The significant improvements observed in the lower Bow, particularly in
the last decade, are directly related to improvements to Banff.s sewage
treatment facility. The extreme coliform concentrations observed in the
early years of the study period (1970s-1980s) have virtually disappeared.
Increasing phosphorus trends, which began before 1989, have significantly
dropped off and average concentrations have been reduced.

Source: http://www.pc.gc.ca/docs/v-g/ie-ei/a...ec5/page4.aspx

--
Bobby G.

On 10/27/2013 09:41 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,
Same here. I liver on the bank of Bow river, one of famous trout fishing water.
Once I watched president George Bush floating by with a fishing guide
casting a line.

I saw a turd floating by on our local river too.

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 3:10:41 PM UTC-4, Steven L. wrote:
The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage

disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is

starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in

there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my

allergies.



I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.



Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose

onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose

from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist

it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The

only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around

the drain nose.)



I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose

and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?



And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose

back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I

put the clamp back on?





--

Steven L.

Some good advice here. Personally I like the coat hanger one. RoevsWade kinda like video games.

On Sunday, October 27, 2013 12:13:07 PM UTC-4, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/27/2013 9:54 AM, wrote:

On Sunday, October 27, 2013 8:41:35 AM UTC-4, Steven L. wrote:

On 10/26/2013 9:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:



Ashton Crusher wrote:



On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:10:41 -0400, "Steven L."



wrote:







The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage



disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is



starting to decompose. (The hose is translucent so I can see it in



there). And there is an odor coming from it that is really bothering my



allergies.







I would like to try to unclog it, but I've never done it before.







Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose



onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose



from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist



it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The



only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around



the drain nose.)







I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose



and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?







And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose



back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I



put the clamp back on?







There is a good chance that if you go to sears.com and then navigate



to their service,support, parts area you can look up your model



dishwasher. Once you find it there is almost always an exploded view



of it showing all the parts. You might be able to tell on that picture



how the drain hose connects. I'm guessing it uses a simply wire clamp



to keep it tight.







It's not a wire clamp, it's a hose clamp.







I don't think you can just "pull it off" without



using pliers to loosen the clamp and move it down off the nipple



first.







Pliers are probably not the right tool to loosen the OP's hose clamp since



he said "once I unscrew...that metal clamp".







Typically a screw driver or nut driver/socket is used for the type of hose



clamp I suspect he has.











Of course, I was going to loosen the clamp, slide it down the hose,



before trying to disconnect the hose. I was just wondering if then the



hose would just twist off the disposal or if there was some other



"gotcha" I didn't know about.











Steven,







Does it look like this?







http://www.irrigationsupplydepot.com.../HoseClamp.jpg







YES. ** THIS. **







So you loosen the clamp, slide it out of the way and

then the hose comes off by pulling and twisting it

back and forth. Given that you said the hose is showing

signs of deteriorating, I wouldn't waste time cleaning

it, just replace it. The other end may be accessible

by removing the cover panel at the bottom of the front

of the dishwasher. Hopefully it doesn't require

pulling the dishwasher out.



The hose should be routed so that between the disposal

and the dishwasher it comes up high, to the bottom of

the counter top. Either that or some will have an

airgap in between. Either is there to help prevent

waste water from getting into the dishwasher.



I didn't say the hose is deteriorating, just clogged.


"The drain hose from my Kenmore dishwasher leading to my Kenmore garbage
disposal is getting pretty clogged. Plus the material in the hose is
starting to decompose."





But it does dip down more than 6 inches between the disposal connector

and the hole in the cabinet that it goes through to get to the dishwasher.


Which is totally wrong. From what you're describing
if the sink drain backs up, you have an easy path
for dirty drain water to flow into the dishwasher.
Preventing that is the purpose of a high loop or
air gap.





I don't see any way to correct that without pulling the dishwasher out

of the wall.



That is probably true.



Anyway, thanks for your advice. If all I have to do is pull and twist

and jiggle the hose after the clamp is fully released, it should go

smoothly.





--

Steven L.

On 10/27/2013 12:13 PM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/27/2013 9:54 AM, wrote:

snippo


So you loosen the clamp, slide it out of the way and
then the hose comes off by pulling and twisting it
back and forth. Given that you said the hose is showing
signs of deteriorating, I wouldn't waste time cleaning
it, just replace it. The other end may be accessible
by removing the cover panel at the bottom of the front
of the dishwasher. Hopefully it doesn't require
pulling the dishwasher out.

yes.


The hose should be routed so that between the disposal
and the dishwasher it comes up high, to the bottom of
the counter top. Either that or some will have an
airgap in between. Either is there to help prevent
waste water from getting into the dishwasher.


again, yes

I didn't say the hose is deteriorating, just clogged.

But it does dip down more than 6 inches between the disposal connector
and the hole in the cabinet that it goes through to get to the dishwasher.

That's OK, but it should arc up to the underside of the countertop and
back down to the hole in the cabinet. If it doesn't, see if there's
enough slack in it to pull some more through the cabinet wall so that
you can provide that high spot. If it doesn't want to stay in that
position, fix it to the back wall of the cabinet with a conduit support
or similar.


I don't see any way to correct that without pulling the dishwasher out
of the wall.

as trader4 said, you may be able to access the other end of the drain
hose simply by removing the kick plate.

Anyway, thanks for your advice. If all I have to do is pull and twist
and jiggle the hose after the clamp is fully released, it should go
smoothly.

yup. and if you do have to replace the hose with a longer one, and/or
splice it to lengthen it, your local big box or plumbing supply should
be able to fix you up with what you need.

good luck

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/28/2013 11:26 AM, bud-- wrote:
On 10/27/2013 7:54 AM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/27/2013 12:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

There should only be the single hose clamps. Can you get a camera in
there
so we can se for sure what we're dealing with?


Here it is.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8994/r610.jpg

I'm sorry it's blurred; my camera insisted on focusing on the background
instead.

yes, twist and pull once the clamp is loose, it is simply clamped over a
round plastic hose connection (there will be a slight "bump" in the
connection to help retain the hose; additionally the rubber will tend to
adhere to the connection over time.)

If it's really on there but good, that rubber piece at the end of the
drain hose is available separately but you'll need another clamp to
secure that repair piece to the corrugated hose. If you have no choice
but to destroy it, slit the rubber lengthwise with a utility knife or
single edge razor blade and peel it off the connection with a flat blade
screwdriver. Don't cut so deeply that you mark the connection, but it's
probably not the end of the world if you inadvertantly do so. Then cut
the drain hose at the closest corrugation to the rubber to leave it as
long as possible for the repair piece.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/InSinkEra...9#.Um569UmzXWg

Might be easier to disconnect and remove the whole hose from underneath
the dishwasher (you'll need a shop towel to catch the water that'll
drain out) and clean it outdoors, or just replace it entirely. Make
sure not to use the sink while you do so, or buy a cap for the
connection on the disposal so water doesn't run out under the cabinet.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/how-p...-piping-94451/

snip


No, the problem is that its drain hose dips down way below the height of
the disposal. As a result, whenever I pour water into my kitchen sink,
it (and any debris in the sink) goes BACKWARDS into my dishwasher!

Many times, I have found waste water and debris in my dishwasher even
though I didn't run it. It came from my kitchen sink.

This is exactly why it should be run up high. You really need to
rectify that unless you *like* eating off plates that have been in
essence stored in a cabinet with rotting potato peels.

The route should be from the dishwasher to high, near the bottom of the
countertop, to the disposal, without a dip between the high and the
disposal. Running the hose high prevents crud from going to the dishwasher.

exactly.

I would use a smooth hose, not corrugated.

Every purpose-made dishwasher drain hose I've ever seen has been
semi-rigid corrugated plastic. However, I do like this idea. Wonder if
something like automotive heater hose is the right size to clamp onto
the connections. (much like I've used 4" ductwork rather than "dryer
vent hose" for dryer vents for much the same reason.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/27/2013 7:54 AM, Steven L. wrote:
On 10/27/2013 12:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Steven L." wrote in message

stuff snipped

Once I unscrew and loosen that metal clamp that holds the drain hose
onto the garbage disposal, how do I physically remove the drain hose
from the disposal? Does it just pull right off, or do I have to twist
it off? Or is there some other connector that I have to unscrew? (The
only connector I can see with a flashlight is that metal clamp around
the drain nose.)

There should only be the single hose clamps. Can you get a camera in
there
so we can se for sure what we're dealing with?


Here it is.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8994/r610.jpg

I'm sorry it's blurred; my camera insisted on focusing on the background
instead.



The hose should be "pressed fit" on which means that it's not exactly
loose
enough to fall right off but it should come off with a small amount of
twisting. The longer it's been on, the harder it usually is to remove the
hose. Also, be careful with the amount of force you use because over time
the plastic fitting (I assume) the hose attaches to may have become
brittle.
The trick to successful home repair is to keep from making things
worse by
trying to fix them. (-;

I figured I could stick an unbent straightened coat hanger into the hose
and just try to dislodge the clogs. Is there a better way?

Compressed air (be sure to cover the drain with wet rags) sometimes
works if
you have an air compressor. A bottle brush or a dowel would pose less
of a
puncture threat than a coat hanger and provide a wide cross-section
area to
push out the clogs. I bought a very small snake (flexible coiled wire)
from
Harbor Freight that works very well with such hoses. I'll look up the
part
if you think you might try that method. It can maneuver around twists and
turns in the hose and is probably a much better choice than a dowel or
any
of the other stuff.

I would only remove one end of the hose - the one with the screw-on clamp
and then see if I could clear it without disturbing the other end,
especially if it has a different kind of clamp. That may well be the case
if the manufacturer installed the hose, and not a plumber. Manufacturers
use clips that can be installed by speedily by machine and they are
trickier
to remove and replace successfully by humans. If there's no screw on the
second clip, leave it alone until you have no choice but to remove it.

And most importantly: Once I unclog the hose, how do I get the hose
back onto the garbage disposal in such a way that it won't leak after I
put the clamp back on?

If it was snug enough that it didn't just fall off in your hands, you
don't
need to do anything special to put it back on other than making sure the
hose clamp is snug. You may find it's so snug that you need to apply a
little dishwashing detergent to the inside of the hose to help it
slide onto
the mating pipe nipple.

All that said, you can't go wrong listening to Mr. Drahn (really?) and
trying the TSP route first.

Do you have a filter in your dishwasher that might be missing?

No, the problem is that its drain hose dips down way below the height of
the disposal. As a result, whenever I pour water into my kitchen sink,
it (and any debris in the sink) goes BACKWARDS into my dishwasher!

Many times, I have found waste water and debris in my dishwasher even
though I didn't run it. It came from my kitchen sink.

The route should be from the dishwasher to high, near the bottom of the
countertop, to the disposal, without a dip between the high and the
disposal. Running the hose high prevents crud from going to the dishwasher.

I would use a smooth hose, not corrugated.

I've only had crud in the dishwasher hose once, and it was my fault.

The kitchen sink was clogged, and I plunged it. Plunging it forced dirty water through the hose. (At the time I was unaware of how the dishwasher drain hose was routed; our previous house didn't have a dishwasher.)

On Mon, 28 Oct 2013 04:36:24 -0400, ralph wrote:

On 10/27/2013 09:41 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,
Same here. I liver on the bank of Bow river, one of famous trout fishing water.
Once I watched president George Bush floating by with a fishing guide
casting a line.

I saw a turd floating by on our local river too.

Malformed floats? I thought he'd be a sinker, for sure.