Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?
--
Pete Cresswell

Need to remove the fuse from circuit.

VOM on ohms scale. Low ohms, like x1.

Reading of infinity means blown, low
ohms (under 10) means fuse is OK.

Typically no such thing as a little
pregnant ^h^h^h^h^h^h^h^h bad.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2013 8:22 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

On Sat, 21 Sep 2013 20:22:24 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)...


You're measuring the circuit? I'm curious why you don't measure the
ohms of the fuse.


It shows infinite? How do you know that's not because of some other
flaw in the circuit? Yeah, yeah, yeah, it was working before, but
that's a conclusion. You have the ohmmeter in your hand and the
fuse out of its socket.. Why not measure the fuse?


I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

On 9/21/2013 8:22 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

I've seen blown fuses with no visible indication.

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in
:

Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?



Correct: No visible indicator. Fuses with transparent bodies or windows do
allow visual detection of failure, but even that isn't a dead-certainty,

Do not test the /circuit/, test the /fuse/.

To determine whether or not the fuse is blown, you MUST remove it from the
circuit (or at least one leg of it), and check between the fuse terminals
with a multimeter set to ohms, A good fuse will show zero ohms. A bad fuse
will show considerably higher than zero.

--
Tegger

On 9/21/2013 8:17 PM, Tegger wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in
:

Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?



Correct: No visible indicator. Fuses with transparent bodies or windows do
allow visual detection of failure, but even that isn't a dead-certainty,

Do not test the /circuit/, test the /fuse/.

To determine whether or not the fuse is blown, you MUST remove it from the
circuit (or at least one leg of it), and check between the fuse terminals
with a multimeter set to ohms, A good fuse will show zero ohms. A bad fuse
will show considerably higher than zero.


It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

On 9/21/13 8:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

V, Ω, and the D word. I accidentally learned something
again. There are several types of Ds.

On 9/21/2013 8:58 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

V, Ω, and the D word. I accidentally learned something
again. There are several types of Ds.


Ω is the last setting to use after V and A. I'm guessing D stands for
Dumb-ass. ^_^

TDD

On 9/21/13 9:01 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/21/2013 8:58 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

V, Ω, and the D word. I accidentally learned something
again. There are several types of Ds.


Ω is the last setting to use after V and A. I'm guessing D stands for
Dumb-ass. ^_^

TDD

Diode. How would one know if the lack of A is due to the fuse
and not another cause?

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:



It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it
and you get a gold star.



Im afraid I get the lead star, 'cause I don't know.



It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^




I'm all ears.



--
Tegger

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

Hi,
With or without fuse in circuit?
You are measuring between fuse terminals?
If you don't read anything(no voltage read) fuse is OK.
If you read voltage fuse is blown.

Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 9:01 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/21/2013 8:58 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it
and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

V, Ω, and the D word. I accidentally learned something
again. There are several types of Ds.


Ω is the last setting to use after V and A. I'm guessing D stands for
Dumb-ass. ^_^

TDD

Diode. How would one know if the lack of A is due to the fuse
and not another cause?
If D for diode, then C for capacitor.

On 9/21/13 7:22 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

The indicator fuses I've seen have little windows on them.
Example he http://tinyurl.com/q3q65g6

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/21/2013 8:17 PM, Tegger wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in
:

Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?



Correct: No visible indicator. Fuses with transparent bodies or windows do
allow visual detection of failure, but even that isn't a dead-certainty,

Do not test the /circuit/, test the /fuse/.

To determine whether or not the fuse is blown, you MUST remove it from the
circuit (or at least one leg of it), and check between the fuse terminals
with a multimeter set to ohms, A good fuse will show zero ohms. A bad fuse
will show considerably higher than zero.


It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

This is not an answer to your quiz, but we used to test BFR (Big Fracking
Resistors) by banging them on the edge of the workbench.

These were foot long, 1" diameter ceramic resistors used in LORAN-C
transmitters. Before we'd meter them, we'd bang them on the edge of the
workbench. These resistors had a habit of getting brittle before they
failed. We preferred that they cracked while out of the transmitter rather
than when they were in a 15K VDC circuit.

The arc across a cracked resistor makes a lot of noise.

Tony Hwang wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

Hi,
With or without fuse in circuit?
You are measuring between fuse terminals?
If you don't read anything(no voltage read) fuse is OK.
If you read voltage fuse is blown.

It's possible to read zero volts across a in-circuit fuse that is not
blown.

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^


The best fuse tester I have used is a Fluke T3. You can go across a fuse in
a circuit and it will automatically show if the fuse is ok by showing
continuity or if it blown it will show voltage if there is any voltage
above 24 volts. Meters are nice in some cases, but this little tester is
almost impossiable to blow as long as the voltage is under 600 volts.
Nothing to turn on, turn off , or adjust.
http://www.transcat.com/PDF/T3TESTER.pdf

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

Hi,
With or without fuse in circuit?
You are measuring between fuse terminals?
If you don't read anything(no voltage read) fuse is OK.
If you read voltage fuse is blown.

It's possible to read zero volts across a in-circuit fuse that is not
blown.

Hi,
Of course if the circuit is alive.

Pete:

That's correct. Those cylinder type fuses have no indication if they're blown or not, and the only way to tell is by checking for continuity across them.

On 9/21/2013 9:13 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 9:01 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/21/2013 8:58 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are
three different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do
it. Explain it and you get a gold star. It's actually the best
way to test BFF, Big Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in.
^_^

TDD

V, Ω, and the D word. I accidentally learned something
again. There are several types of Ds.


Ω is the last setting to use after V and A. I'm guessing D stands
for Dumb-ass. ^_^

TDD

Diode. How would one know if the lack of A is due to the fuse
and not another cause?

I'm jealous, yours has a diode tester but wait, it's the lowest
resistance setting on my stable of DMM's. I often have to check fuses in
circuit because pulling a fuse could cause a disruption if it's the
wrong one or a bolt in fuse. First I check for voltage on either end of
a fuse to ground then across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero
volts across it but since I'm not a trusting sort when I'm 'round
'lectrizity, I may check for current flow by touching the leads across
the fuse, sometimes with a suitable resistor in series. Only then, set
the meter to the ohms scale and start checking. My methodology works for
large and bolt in fuses or small fuses that are hard to remove and
access. A very useful and interesting item for control circuitry is a
small circuit breaker with leads to put across a fuse that's blown to
prevent the release of the magic smoke contained in all electrical and
electronic gear when one checks for a short circuit. I don't always have
room in my pocket for a Variac with a large volt/amp meter. ^_^

TDD

On 9/21/2013 10:22 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^


The best fuse tester I have used is a Fluke T3. You can go across a fuse in
a circuit and it will automatically show if the fuse is ok by showing
continuity or if it blown it will show voltage if there is any voltage
above 24 volts. Meters are nice in some cases, but this little tester is
almost impossiable to blow as long as the voltage is under 600 volts.
Nothing to turn on, turn off , or adjust.
http://www.transcat.com/PDF/T3TESTER.pdf


I used a good old Wiggy for years when doing a lot of electrical work
and I'm sure I could find it in my stuff if I haven't lost it.
The Fluke T3 is a modern variation which looks like the old Wiggy.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/73...Voltage_Tester

http://tinyurl.com/k67f6ke

TDD

That's going to keep me awake, wondering.
I hope you give the answer, eventually.
After the suitable amount of begging, of
course.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2013 9:34 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it and
you get a gold star. It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^

TDD

I figure one would be volts, measure the voltage drop across the fuse.
Open fuse, would show line voltage. Active fuse would show a voltage
drop of 1 or 2.

Ammeter might show current flow through the fuse. Open fuse would read
zero amps.

If the circuit is turned off, tagged and locked, the ohms scale can be
used, maybe. Depending on some of the other circuits and wires involved.

And by now, I've had to replace three meters cause I'm all wrong. Let
out the little white smoke from my meters.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2013 10:20 PM, Tegger wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:



It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are three
different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do it. Explain it
and you get a gold star.



Im afraid I get the lead star, 'cause I don't know.



It's actually the best way to test BFF, Big
Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in. ^_^




I'm all ears.

How would capacitance (farads) test a diode?

The cheap VOM I've got from HF, test volts AC,
volts DC, miliamps DC, amps DC.

Good VOM might include farads, diode, AC amps.

A few generations from now, we'll test
dilithium crystals for the warp drive.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2013 10:44 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Dean Hoffman wrote:

Ω is the last setting to use after V and A. I'm guessing D stands for
Dumb-ass. ^_^

TDD

Diode. How would one know if the lack of A is due to the fuse
and not another cause?
If D for diode, then C for capacitor.

If memory serves, you're going to tell us which
three settings on a DMM. One is volts, other is
ohms. What's the third?

The other guy's diode tester might be similar to
continuity scale I've seen now and again. Activates
a high pitch beeper if continuity is found. Which
is nice if you don't want to look at the scale.
And if you can hear the beeper.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2013 7:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's actually very easy to test a fuse in circuit. There are
three different settings on a DMM that will allow you to do
it. Explain it and you get a gold star. It's actually the best
way to test BFF, Big Fracking Fuses and those that bolt in.
^_^

Diode. How would one know if the lack of A is due to the fuse
and not another cause?

I'm jealous, yours has a diode tester but wait, it's the lowest
resistance setting on my stable of DMM's. I often have to check fuses in
circuit because pulling a fuse could cause a disruption if it's the
wrong one or a bolt in fuse. First I check for voltage on either end of
a fuse to ground then across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero
volts across it but since I'm not a trusting sort when I'm 'round
'lectrizity, I may check for current flow by touching the leads across
the fuse, sometimes with a suitable resistor in series. Only then, set
the meter to the ohms scale and start checking. My methodology works for
large and bolt in fuses or small fuses that are hard to remove and
access. A very useful and interesting item for control circuitry is a
small circuit breaker with leads to put across a fuse that's blown to
prevent the release of the magic smoke contained in all electrical and
electronic gear when one checks for a short circuit. I don't always have
room in my pocket for a Variac with a large volt/amp meter. ^_^

TDD

On 9/21/2013 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 21 Sep 2013 21:50:29 -0500, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 9/21/13 7:22 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

The indicator fuses I've seen have little windows on them.
Example he http://tinyurl.com/q3q65g6

They also make an indicating fuse with a metal plunger that pops out
when it blows. These are usually used in a holder with a sense rail.
The plunger pops out, hits the rail and indicates a blown fuse.
(light, beeper or whatever)


I had fuses like in some surplus gear that had a panel mount fuse holder
equipped with a clear cap having a bubble in it that the plunger popped
up into when the fuse blew. The little tips of the plungers on some of
the fuses were painted red so they would show up more easily in the
bubble but it was easy to tell if the unpainted tips were in the bubble
window of the cap too. I suppose that little fuse would work in a fuse
holder that had an electrical contact to turn on an indicator light. I
had some fuses under the dash in my van that had a tiny LED which would
light if the fuse blew. ^_^

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

I often have to check fuses in
circuit because pulling a fuse could cause a disruption if it's the
wrong one or a bolt in fuse.



Or if it's an industrial environment where equipment may need to be kept
running unless absolutely necessary...



First I check for voltage on either end of a fuse to ground then
across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero volts across it



Zero volts DROP, you mean? In other words, that /all/ the voltage is going
through the fuse, and /none/ through your DMM, which is supposed to have a
higher impedance than the fuse has?

If the fuse was blown, then the DMM would present the lower-impedance path,
and you'd see all the voltage traveling through the DMM?




--
Tegger

On 9/22/13 6:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I'm jealous, yours has a diode tester but wait, it's the lowest
resistance setting on my stable of DMM's. I often have to check fuses in
circuit because pulling a fuse could cause a disruption if it's the
wrong one or a bolt in fuse. First I check for voltage on either end of
a fuse to ground then across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero
volts across it but since I'm not a trusting sort when I'm 'round
'lectrizity, I may check for current flow by touching the leads across
the fuse, sometimes with a suitable resistor in series. Only then, set
the meter to the ohms scale and start checking. My methodology works for
large and bolt in fuses or small fuses that are hard to remove and
access. A very useful and interesting item for control circuitry is a
small circuit breaker with leads to put across a fuse that's blown to
prevent the release of the magic smoke contained in all electrical and
electronic gear when one checks for a short circuit. I don't always have
room in my pocket for a Variac with a large volt/amp meter. ^_^

TDD

Your work life is more complicated than mine. I don't have to
worry about shutting down either wrong or interconnected stuff.
Most importantly, I won't shut down the computer used to issue my pay
check.

Light fuses sounds good. Since the fuse blows, and you likely still hvae
12 volts to work with. The 20 mA or so through the LED and resistor
won't do much damage to any thing.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2013 8:15 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I suppose that little fuse would work in a fuse
holder that had an electrical contact to turn on an indicator light. I
had some fuses under the dash in my van that had a tiny LED which would
light if the fuse blew. ^_^

TDD

Since we're splitting hairs, and using italics,
I'll add a netpick. Voltage doesn't travel through
wires, amperes do.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2013 8:19 AM, Tegger wrote:


Zero volts DROP, you mean? In other words, that /all/ the voltage is going
through the fuse, and /none/ through your DMM, which is supposed to have a
higher impedance than the fuse has?

If the fuse was blown, then the DMM would present the lower-impedance path,
and you'd see all the voltage traveling through the DMM?

Stormin Mormon wrote in
:

Since we're splitting hairs, and using italics,
I'll add a netpick. Voltage doesn't travel through
wires, amperes do.



I can netpick as well as anybody else he Current travels ON wires, not
THROUGH them.

(You'll notice I've avoided the use of italics in favor of upper case; I
typed those words LOUDER than the others.)



--
Tegger

On 9/22/2013 7:23 AM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/22/13 6:02 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I'm jealous, yours has a diode tester but wait, it's the lowest
resistance setting on my stable of DMM's. I often have to check fuses in
circuit because pulling a fuse could cause a disruption if it's the
wrong one or a bolt in fuse. First I check for voltage on either end of
a fuse to ground then across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero
volts across it but since I'm not a trusting sort when I'm 'round
'lectrizity, I may check for current flow by touching the leads across
the fuse, sometimes with a suitable resistor in series. Only then, set
the meter to the ohms scale and start checking. My methodology works for
large and bolt in fuses or small fuses that are hard to remove and
access. A very useful and interesting item for control circuitry is a
small circuit breaker with leads to put across a fuse that's blown to
prevent the release of the magic smoke contained in all electrical and
electronic gear when one checks for a short circuit. I don't always have
room in my pocket for a Variac with a large volt/amp meter. ^_^

TDD

Your work life is more complicated than mine. I don't have to
worry about shutting down either wrong or interconnected stuff.
Most importantly, I won't shut down the computer used to issue my pay
check.


That could cause a serious GRONK! if it's up and running when you killed
the power. It's a bad idea to pull a big fuse out of an energized panel
unless it's in a safety switch which won't open while turned on but the
incoming line can be hot so there is still a bit of
danger but if the safety switch is wired correctly there won't be any
voltage on the fuses so yank away. Oh yea, trust no one, always check
to make sure there is NO voltage. I've worked on industrial, commercial,
government and residential electrical systems that had high, medium and
low voltage power. I'm still here because I never became complacent
around electricity. I'll never forget the time my brother was burned
while working on a tractor. His metal watch band shorted to ground on
the tractor's 6 volt starter and lit up. If I wear a watch it's always
plastic. Never, ever believe that low voltage can't hurt you. ^_^

TDD

On 9/22/2013 7:41 AM, Tegger wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote in
:

Since we're splitting hairs, and using italics,
I'll add a netpick. Voltage doesn't travel through
wires, amperes do.



I can netpick as well as anybody else he Current travels ON wires, not
THROUGH them.

(You'll notice I've avoided the use of italics in favor of upper case; I
typed those words LOUDER than the others.)




RF voltage travels on the surface too. ^_^

TDD

On Sunday, September 22, 2013 8:41:19 AM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote in

:



Since we're splitting hairs, and using italics,

I'll add a netpick. Voltage doesn't travel through

wires, amperes do.







I can netpick as well as anybody else he Current travels ON wires, not

THROUGH them.



You're trying to claim what exactly? That the current density inside
a wire is zero? In my world, it's correct to say current travels
through wires. Unless you're dealing with high frequencies, where
the skin effect becomes of significance.

And Daring's statement was accurate as stated, at least
with regard to what you're objecting to:

"First I check for voltage on either end of a fuse to ground then
across the fuse, a good fuse should measure zero volts across it "


I can see raising issue with something that isn't clear or
correct. But raising spurious issues that just confuse the
correct answer is pointless. If there is anything that is
wrong with the statement, it's that it should say a good fuse
will measure "near zero volts" across it when it's in an energized
circuit. A bad one will have typically
have a large amount of voltage across it with the circuit powered.
Example, take a 100W light bulb in a 120V circuit with a 5 amp fuse.
Fuse OK, it will read very close to zero volts across the fuse.
Fuse blown, it will read ~120V. The impedance of the meter, how
the current splits between the meter and the circuit, etc
is just noise, unless it's some very unusual circuit where
the impedance of a typical VOM is going to matter because it's
of significance compared to the circuit.

" wrote in
:


I can see raising issue with something that isn't clear or
correct. But raising spurious issues that just confuse the
correct answer is pointless.



You stay out of this. I have him on the ropes; my next move will finish him
off cleanly, and I alone will claim the Netpick Trophy..


--
Tegger

I'd be curious if you have any web sites that
explain this. It seems counter intuitive.

Years ago, friends told me that microwave ovens
heat food from the inside out, which is also
counter intuitive. I'd ought have tested it by
put in a box of frozen solid ice cream. Give it
60 seconds, and then slice the ice cream to see
what is soft and hard.



..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2013 8:41 AM, Tegger wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote in
:

Since we're splitting hairs, and using italics,
I'll add a netpick. Voltage doesn't travel through
wires, amperes do.



I can netpick as well as anybody else he Current travels ON wires, not
THROUGH them.

(You'll notice I've avoided the use of italics in favor of upper case; I
typed those words LOUDER than the others.)

Per micky:
You have the ohmmeter in your hand and the
fuse out of its socket.. Why not measure the fuse?

Poor choice of words on my part. That's what I was doing: measuring the
fuse.
--
Pete Cresswell

Is it permitted, to admit mistayk on Usenet?
I thought you were supposed to flame?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/22/2013 10:24 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per micky:
You have the ohmmeter in your hand and the
fuse out of its socket.. Why not measure the fuse?

Poor choice of words on my part. That's what I was doing: measuring the
fuse.

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/21/2013 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 21 Sep 2013 21:50:29 -0500, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 9/21/13 7:22 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Specially LittleFuse KLK-15 as in http://tinyurl.com/kfs8gje

This thing is almost certainly blown (ohmmeter shows same reading with
or without fuse in circuit)... I'm looking at and looking at it, but
can't see any visible indicator.

There is none, right?

The indicator fuses I've seen have little windows on them.
Example he http://tinyurl.com/q3q65g6

They also make an indicating fuse with a metal plunger that pops out
when it blows. These are usually used in a holder with a sense rail.
The plunger pops out, hits the rail and indicates a blown fuse.
(light, beeper or whatever)


I had fuses like in some surplus gear that had a panel mount fuse holder
equipped with a clear cap having a bubble in it that the plunger popped
up into when the fuse blew. The little tips of the plungers on some of
the fuses were painted red so they would show up more easily in the
bubble but it was easy to tell if the unpainted tips were in the bubble
window of the cap too. I suppose that little fuse would work in a fuse
holder that had an electrical contact to turn on an indicator light. I
had some fuses under the dash in my van that had a tiny LED which would
light if the fuse blew. ^_^

TDD

Have you ever seen a motorized circuit breaker controlled by a 3-strike
relay? We had them in the LORAN-C transmitters I used to work on. These
transmitters were subject to the random arc which would trip the high
voltage breaker in the power supply.

Picture a large circuit breaker above a motor with a shaft the rose out of
the top. When the motor was energized, the shaft pushed the breaker handle
up, energizing the high voltage Power Supply. (25K VDC max, steady state at
15K) the motor would then spin back down retracting the shaft.

Controlling the motor circuit was a mechanized relay with a timer and a cam
that opened and closed the relay contacts. If the transmitter arced and
tripped the breaker, the cam would rotate 1 position, start a 30 second
timer and power up the motor which would close the circuit breaker. If 30
seconds went by with no more arcs, the relay cam would rotate back to its
"normal" position and wait patiently for the next arc. If another arc
occurred within those 30 seconds, the cam would rotate one more position,
power up the motor, close the breaker and once again wait for another arc.
If, within the original 30 seconds a 3rd arc occurred, the cam would rotate
one more position and shut down the power supply.

At that point, if everything else was working properly, other circuitry
would automatically power up the standby transmitter and switch the antenna
coupler to the standby unit, putting us back on air in under a minute.

"bud--" wrote in message
eb.com...

The tester also has a CAT3/CAT4 rating - a real good idea if you are
testing a BFF. That means the meter won't blow up, which some non-CAT
rated meters might when used on high capacity circuits.


Anything I use will have a CAT rating when working on any voltage above
about 50 volts.

Fluke put out a film that shows what can hapen with the less expensive
meters when used on equipment that can have a very high current capacity.
Even putting the wrong fuse in a meter rated cat3 or more can get you in
trouble. The beter meters will have a fuse in the ohm meter section. If
you hapen to put the meter in the ohm or amp setting and get across a
voltage source and the fuse blows, but the not rated fuses can arc over and
have the effect of not blowing. In almost no time the leads insulation
melts and you are across the voltage source. Or the leads explode from the
excessive current.

That little Fluke T3 tester is very handy. Small enough to slip in the
back pocket. They also make a T100 multimeter about the same size that
works very well . It will do voltage and up to around 1000 ohms and has a
provision to act like a clamp on ampmeter. It is also almost impossiable to
blow up. We used them at work and would often go across fuses on 480 volt 3
phase circuits. Most often just using the ohms setting and going across
fuses. Never did see one go bad even when the fuse was blown. I probably
checked thousands of fuses this way on running equipment.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Light fuses sounds good. Since the fuse blows, and you likely still hvae
12 volts to work with. The 20 mA or so through the LED and resistor won't
do much damage to any thing.


At work there are thosands of fuses. Many of them are in holders that have
neon bulbs for voltages over 100 volts and LEDs in them for the 24 volt
circuits. Makes finding a bad fuse easy most of the time.

Some of the larger fuses have a set of contacts on the side that are
normally open. When the fuse blows the contacts close and light up an
indicator.