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Default briggs and stratton motor question


I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three times).
Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it. Surprisingly,
my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.
--
Scall5

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On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:12:24 -0500, "Scall5" wrote:


I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three times).
Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it. Surprisingly,
my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.


I cannot answer and never have used a stabilizer in small engines.

Would the stabilizer have a solvent that may have partially cleaned
gunk from the carb?
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On 9/14/2013 1:36 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:12:24 -0500, "Scall5" wrote:


I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three times).
Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it. Surprisingly,
my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.


I cannot answer and never have used a stabilizer in small engines.

Would the stabilizer have a solvent that may have partially cleaned
gunk from the carb?


My mower dealer told me not to use 2 cycle gas in any 4 cycle engine.
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On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 13:44:41 -0400, Frank
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My mower dealer told me not to use 2 cycle gas in any 4 cycle engine.


I'm a fan of B&S engines. I would not use 2 cycle gas, for sure.
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On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:12:24 -0500, "Scall5" wrote:


I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three times).
Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it. Surprisingly,
my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.


Doubt the oil helped. Was the stabilized gas newer than the other gas?
Maybe it has some detergent action too.


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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:12:24 -0500, "Scall5" wrote:


I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three
times).
Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it. Surprisingly,
my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.


Doubt the oil helped. Was the stabilized gas newer than the other gas?
Maybe it has some detergent action too.


That's what I am thinking, the stabilizer must have cleaned it somehow. The
oil/gas mix was actually a year old. I made sure to only use that mix of gas
with a half tank of regular gas so the ratio was probably closer to 100:1.
Not ideal, but I was in a pinch.

Thanks for all the replies!
--
Scall5

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Default briggs and stratton motor question

I'd suspect the old gas was, well, old gas. Sometimes
those old B and S (wth the tank low on the side) get
water in the gas, and don't start right.

..
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On 9/14/2013 1:12 PM, Scall5 wrote:

I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven
years old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the
choke bulb around eight times to get it started (normally I would push
it three times). Once started it ran fine.

However, when I ran out of gas I has to use my trimmer gas which is 50:1
gas/oil mix. The mixed gas also had a gas stabilizer in it.
Surprisingly, my motor now seems to fire up after just three pushes of
the choke bulb.

Anyone know if it was the oil or the stabilizer that improved my mower's
starting ability? Or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance.

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Frank, I can't imagine why not.

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On 9/14/2013 1:44 PM, Frank wrote:
Would the stabilizer have a solvent that may have partially cleaned
gunk from the carb?


My mower dealer told me not to use 2 cycle gas in any 4 cycle engine.

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"Scall5" wrote in message
...

I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven years
old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the choke bulb
around eight times to get it started (normally I would push it three
times). Once started it ran fine.


Try clicking your heals 3x.


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I hope that somewhere along the time line you checked that the crankcase oil level was up to snuff.


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On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 10:54:17 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 13:44:41 -0400, Frank
wrote:

My mower dealer told me not to use 2 cycle gas in any 4 cycle engine.


I'm a fan of B&S engines. I would not use 2 cycle gas, for sure.


Running a bit of 2 stroke gas through a 4 stroke engine will not hurt
it at all, particularly if the engine is worked hard. Particularly not
50:1 . I wouldn't run 16:1, or run it constantly on mix due to the
chance of building carbon in the combustion chamber and exhaust - but
a tankfull now and then won't hurt. Not good for catalytic converters
- but B&S lawnmowers don't have them.


A lot more dangerous to run 4 strake gas in 2 stroke engines.
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"colbert" wrote in
:


"Scall5" wrote in message
...

I have a regular Briggs and Stratton push mower that is about seven
years old. It's been a great mower but this year I had to push the
choke bulb around eight times to get it started (normally I would
push it three times). Once started it ran fine.


Try clicking your heals 3x.



That only ends your LSD trip and brings you back to your drug addict world.
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On 9/15/2013 12:53 PM, Oren wrote:


Back in the 50's folks would add some kerosene into a vehicle's oil.
It helped clean hydraulic lifters of grit and reduce tapping noise. It
also helped to clean the piston rings of grime. Then the oil & filter
were changed. It never hurt the engine in short use.

Auto transmission fluid (detergent) was sometimes added to a full tank
of gas to clean or reduce moisture in the fuel line, carb, and filter
system.

Of course this was long ago, but I'd not suggest it in modern cars.


I remember doing that. Oils were not nearly as good at recent years and
sludge was common in engines. It was also common to do rings and
bearings at 50,000 miles too. Plugs were cleaned at 5k and replaced at
10k and mufflers lasted little more than a year.


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On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 18:48:42 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/15/2013 12:53 PM, Oren wrote:


Back in the 50's folks would add some kerosene into a vehicle's oil.
It helped clean hydraulic lifters of grit and reduce tapping noise. It
also helped to clean the piston rings of grime. Then the oil & filter
were changed. It never hurt the engine in short use.

Auto transmission fluid (detergent) was sometimes added to a full tank
of gas to clean or reduce moisture in the fuel line, carb, and filter
system.

Of course this was long ago, but I'd not suggest it in modern cars.


I remember doing that. Oils were not nearly as good at recent years and
sludge was common in engines. It was also common to do rings and
bearings at 50,000 miles too. Plugs were cleaned at 5k and replaced at
10k and mufflers lasted little more than a year.


Bulk oil (recycled) was 15 cent a quart. Glass containers. Two quarts
low on oil only cost 30 cents :-|


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On 9/16/2013 12:31 PM, Oren wrote:


Bulk oil (recycled) was 15 cent a quart. Glass containers. Two quarts
low on oil only cost 30 cents :-|


Forgot about that. I used to buy it as myh '53 Mercury had a system
that eliminated need for oil changes. You just added a quart every
couple hundred miles and you did not part in a place that would stain
from the drips. I carried water, oil, ATF all the time. If it was
liquid, it leaked.
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I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace Daily". g.
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wrote in message
...

I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.


Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.


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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 14:14:10 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
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I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.


Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.


No, no, no, no; _ First On Race Day_.
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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 13:20:49 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/16/2013 12:31 PM, Oren wrote:


Bulk oil (recycled) was 15 cent a quart. Glass containers. Two quarts
low on oil only cost 30 cents :-|


Forgot about that. I used to buy it as myh '53 Mercury had a system
that eliminated need for oil changes. You just added a quart every
couple hundred miles and you did not part in a place that would stain
from the drips. I carried water, oil, ATF all the time. If it was
liquid, it leaked.


On a rare occasion, we put black pepper in a radiator to seal a leak
in the radiator core. Got you home in those days.



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On 9/16/2013 1:24 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 14:14:10 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
...

I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.


Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.


No, no, no, no; _ First On Race Day_.


Fifth On Race Day, depending on the driver. Of course the elite
P.L.L.C.F who despise NASCAR and the people who are fans believe
FORD means Fat Old Racist Dude. ^_^

TDD
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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 15:41:46 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 9/16/2013 1:24 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 14:14:10 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
...

I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.

Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.


No, no, no, no; _ First On Race Day_.


Fifth On Race Day, depending on the driver. Of course the elite
P.L.L.C.F who despise NASCAR and the people who are fans believe
FORD means Fat Old Racist Dude. ^_^


That certainly gives me the warm fuzzies. Just bought two.

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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 14:14:10 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
...

I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.


Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.

Four Old Rusty Doors
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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 11:24:11 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 14:14:10 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
...

I am sure then that you also knew the acronym "ford", "Fix Or Replace
Daily". g.


Thought it was Found On the Road Dead.


No, no, no, no; _ First On Race Day_.

Into the pits.
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Most Fat old Racist Dudes, you can only pet
them if you're not a Klingon.

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On 9/16/2013 9:17 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 9/16/2013 8:08 PM, wrote:
FORD means Fat Old Racist Dude. ^_^


That certainly gives me the warm fuzzies. Just bought two.



Are they like Tribbles? Can I pet them? ^_^

TDD

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On 09/16/2013 08:17 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

[snip]


Are they like Tribbles? Can I pet them? ^_^


Born pregnant.

TDD


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